Leo's Latticini (Mama's) and Corona Heights Pork Store
- Michael Natkin Apr 29, 2006 05:06 PM
My wife, baby and I are in Manhattan for 2 weeks, visiting from Seattle. Based on the recommendation in the The Chowhound Guide and Frank Richman's book (Fork it Over) we headed over to Queens for a Mozarella sandwich at Leo's Latticini, and it was killer. About a half pound of beautiful fresh cow milk mozarella on a nice crispy roll with roasted red peppers and mushrooms. Nothing complicated, but the cheese is nice and sweet as is the atmosphere at the store. And then we went into Mama's Backyard which is their bakery and had a killer Mille Feuille (I think that is what it is called) - crispy layers of filo around a lemony mascarpone filling.
We also tried to walk over to the Corona Heights Pork Store for an eggplant parmesan hero, and they are out of business! Sorry for the bad news. There was a sign up saying it has been repossesed by the landlord. It seemed like the owner and his friends were having a bbq in the park across the street, so it looked like a very recent happening. No info on whether this is permananent or just a temporary situation.
If you guys want real killer fresh mozzarella when you return to NY, then you have to pay a visit to Tony's Beechhurst Deli located in the middle of 154th Street between 11th and 12th avenues in Whitestone, Queens. Owned by Emilo and Josephine Polito, they run a truly magnificent deli and the fresh mozzarella is 10x better than Leo's Latticini. This from an Italian born and raised in Corona is almost sacrilegious but its the truth.
i trekked out to that Tony's Deli one day several months ago, and the small place was a total dump, their italian meats average at best, and sort of old and sorry looking, and what was remaining in a small dish was the fresh mozzarella which did not look appetizing at all, so I left there, and went elsewhere--in the area--Sorriso's is still very good for their salted mozzarella, much better than their unsalted and best of all is Casa Della Mozzarella in the Bronx.--and the Corona Heights Pork Store's chicken parm is very much missed, it was the best.
Casa Della Mozzarella
604 E 187th St, Bronx, NY 10458
Small thing--the book is by Alan Richman. I discovered Leo's when an out-of-town relative heard him talking about it on a show he used to have on the Food Network. She sent me to investigate after hearing him wax poetic...It is a hidden jewel, if you don't count the fact that they sell heros at Shea Stadium, also. (Finally ballpark food to be proud of.) The sisters who run the place are just the nicest. My cousin "requires" me to bring her family several "specials" when I visit every year and the owners always accede to my request to pack the peppers and mushrooms on the side, so the sandwiches travel better. The pasta store next door makes manicotti to die for. I think there is more than one place to get a hero on Corona Avenue. I seem to recall more than one place, right across from the park and the Parkside Restaurant. Does anyone know? Am I misremembering? I will have to check out the deli in Beechhurst suggested by Corona EMS. Anything I should try besides the mozzarella?
I had to take my son to Laguardia today so we dropped into Mamas for lunch. We split a special with peppers and mushrooms (is there any other way?) and a Chicken parm hero; theres something about fresh mozz on a sandwich. The sisters were as nice as ever and two of them laughed when I said 'is there any other way!' We took our sandwiches to the bakery to sit down and eat and although we were stuffed, we split a sfogliatelle and a chocolate covered cannoli!
Oh yeah, a mama's super Italian is waiting for me
Both the deli and the bakery had the newspaper article about mamas death in ready view