Chowdown #29 Report: San Bruno Thai Temple Lunch
On Sunday, we joined Felice and Malik for lunch at the Thai temple in San Bruno. The four of you who had to drop out at the last minute missed something very special . . . next time!
As a veteran of the popular lunch served at the Berkeley temple, I was surprised to be able to park right at the temple, instead of blocks away. Karen was even in the parking lot, arriving a few minutes ahead of me. This is still a relatively undiscovered find.
As the early arrivals, we took a look around. Stepping inside the temple between services, we were tickled to see an orange-robed monk typing busily into his HP laptop.
The eating area is much smaller than the Berkeley temple's, maybe a third the size, and under tents. It's in a semi-enclosed courtyard which keeps out some of the wind.
This picture shows the ladies setting up the griddle and frying station. The woman on the left is cutting up bananas, taro and other sweet tubers which are then dipped in batter and fried. We enjoyed those while they were good and hot.
The one on the right is making roti and fried dumplings. Rather than being layered or stirred into concentric rings, they're basically a flat piece of dough here. The addition of a smear of sweetened condensed milk makes them special. The chive dumplings were very, well, strongly chive-y and big with softish rice flour wrappers crisped on the high spots. These were served with a chili-spiked garlicky soy sauce.
By Melanie Wong
on Jun 25, 2003 10:50 PM
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With Chew Toy as the next arrival, we decided it was time to start eating and break our fast. Our first selection was an order of fried chicken (three whole legs hacked into thirds) served with sticky rice and sweet chili dipping sauce for $4. Very crispy and mostly seasoned with a good dose of black pepper. At the first bite, we knew we were in for something special.
When the others arrived, we got a second order sans rice, as shown below. Even though the skin is crackly and the meat is pretty much well-done and pulling from the bone, all the juices were sealed in keeping it moist. The second order, served minutes out of the fryer was even better.
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As you can see from the fresh herbs and veggies in this photo, most of the food here is prepared on site by the volunteers.
Chew Toy volunteered to oversee the production of our green papaya salad. He didn't mind that wanted it as spicy as the preparer would allow. What you're seeing here is the beginning of a beautiful relationship. He chatted up the woman with the mortar and pestle to convince her that despite his white face, he really did want this salad the way that she would eat it. I chuckled when she asked where he was sitting, as if she would need to revive him later!
He can fill us in on more of the details of the prep. He tasted the blend several times to tinker with the balance of the seasonings until it was just right.
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This green papaya salad (som tum) is the result of his efforts. We all felt it was the best around. The papaya shreds were well-pounded, and the use of Chinese long beans was a great touch.
When it came time to order another, Chew Toy jumped up to take a second shot at fine tuning the recipe. Indeed it was even better with more brilliance of flavor. The second plate was accompanied by a skein of fine rice noodles instead of the pile of cut long beans to counteract the chilis.
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While this may look vaguely like ratatouille made from roasted eggplant, peppers and onions, it's more like caponata on steroids. Note all those chili seeds.
We loved this with a little bit of sticky rice eaten with the fingers. The fire of the chilis in this vegetable condiment coats the whole mouth and sticks with you for a long, long time.
When I tried to buy some to take home, I discovered that Chew Toy had beat me to it, getting the last half pint or so. I tried to convince the lady manning this station to sell me the two tablespoons that were stuck to her tupperware container, but no go. Later, Malik was a sweetheart and managed to get her to scrape these tasty remains into a little cup for me. When I got these home, I noticed that the lid to the plastic container said "dentures". (g)
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This container was overflowing with room temperature plain steamed veggies: tiny eggplants, blonde zucchini, watercress, green beans, and unidentified bitter greens. Very plain, but later we observed that these should be spiced up with some of the caponata on steroids or eaten with the hot dishes to counteract the chilis.
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These fried pork ribs were sold room temperature. While called "ribs", the pieces I tried had no bones. Texturally, these were kind of a cross between carnitas and cecina with a dryish texture. The spicing was more exotic and slightly ginger-y. These would be a nice nibble while watching the game. And, they were also enhanced by a bit of the spicy vegetable condiment.
Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/24663#96751
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This shows the steam table before it was fully set up. On the right side is the egg, tofu and pork butt dish that we tried at the Berkeley temple chowdown. There the Thai woman tried to discourage me from sampling it, saying that I wouldn't like it if I were not Thai. In contrast, here in San Bruno the volunteers are thrilled to answer all your questions and encourage you to try more. Guess they're not jaded yet.
The section next to it is fried fish in spicy garlic sauce. This was much more delectable than I could have imagined. Unlike the overcooked, dried out fried fish I've experienced too many times in Southeast Asian restaurants, the flesh of these fish sections on the bone was tender and moist. The sauce had mild heat and lots of complexity.
The woman with her hand on the skillet is sauteeing minced pork to make larb. When I saw the tray of pork livers she had already cooked, I knew this was going to be a real treat.
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Here's what an individual serving of the stewed pork dish looks like. I loved the fried triangles of tofu which had soaked up the delicious juices. The pork was overcooked and drying out, but had good flavor that almost made up for the texture problem. I overhead Karen saying, "ah pork rind, the next best thing to pork fat" as she speared a choice morsel.
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The steam table also offered duck curry that was just beautiful studded with jewel-like pieces of fresh tomato and pineapple. It was a bit skimpy on roasted duck, but I savored the mildly spiced coconut curry sauce with some sticky rice.
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While we had many delicious dishes and no outright losers, this was my favorite of the day. I've been whining recently about the decline of larb preps, so it was a special treat to have one here that was done so well and looked great too. Cabbage, no frisee or baby greens, and a multitude of fresh herbs chopped into the blend. We had tasted some of the herbs displayed on hte table in the previous picture, including one that had green berries and a sour taste. At the top of the picture is the same unidentified green leafy vegetable that we saw at the Vietnamese 7 courses of beef dinner - maybe someone can tell us what it is too.
The minced pork was smooth and succulent in texture, and mixed with sauteed pork liver and intestines that added an earthy element. The seasonings were medium and not as hot as the som tum, but that suited this dish. The bite of lime juice and the saltiness of the funky fish sauce held the heat of the roasted chilis in check. Also, I was happy that the roasted rice powder was evident and properly toasted.
This was brilliant, just brilliant.
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Here's the dessert table, when it was still fully stocked at 11:15am. This is also the station where you can buy bottles of water for $1 (no other beverages are available). Behind it are the simple tables and folding chairs for dining.
We made a strategic error by waiting until we were ready for dessert to buy them. At that point, many were already gone . . . a lesson for the next time, stock up when you can.
The mango with sticky rice was just about perfect. The mango was the best kind and dead ripe. The rice was sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds, had a slight bit of salt that accentuated the flavors and was not overly compacted. Coconut milk was provided in a small container to pour over the rice when ready to serve.
We also tried the savory/sweet pork-filled tapioca balls which were a hit. Not as popular were the coconut-coated cassava balls. A dark brown molasses-flavored gummy mochi mass covered with coconut flakes on the side didn't grab us either.
I was sorry to miss the cendol.
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This picture doesn't quite capture the near fluourescent yellow color of this dessert. It was starchy with a fried batter encasing a yam-like filling. Maybe someone can tell us what it is.
All in all, this was a very worthwhile trek to San Bruno for a terrific lunch. Many thanks to Felice for sharing it with us and to Malik for organizing the outing. I hope the other 'hounds who shared the experience will fill in whatever details or dishes I've missed.
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Man, I miss the Bay Area.
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Candied cuttlefish?
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I have a slightly different opinion about the desserts:
I thought the mango and sticky rice were good, but the mango could have been more ripe, more juicy, slightly better texture. Two other times I have had better mango and sticky rice.
I didn't really like the pork/tapioca balls, but this might just be a personal preference. I usually like sweet/savory things, but not this particular combination. I like the coconut balls better.
My favorite dessert here is roti. Crispy, sticky, sweet, and you can watch them knead the dough right in front of you.
Tip: It is a good idea to bring a cooler and tupperware to bring food home with you. I did this last time and I had food for a week, with the huge portions they sometimes give you.
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I'm surprised the sweet/savory pork-filled tapioca balls (sakoo) were offered at the dessert table. They're not really considered a "sweet", like sticky rice and mango, but a between-meal snack, like grilled pork skewers with dipping sauce, to be grabbed at a streetside stand and consumed at desk or home.And -- they are best eaten wrapped in a green lettuce leaf with a sprig of coriander and a fresh, whole, bird's-eye chili. The fresh chili adds the missing element in what should really be a sweet-savory-spicy experience (and a bit of crunch too).
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I managed to grab the last order of this dish and it had the lettuce leaf and chili. The group was kind to let me take the last 2 home to my husband - we ate them with the lettuce and chili - wow! What a taste sensation. I hope they have them the next time we go.
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Yes, this dish was wonderful, and it was also my favorite. I had never had it with liver, and it really adds a lot. The herbs were abundant, adding many new flavors. We got this dish prepared medium, but I think the Thai people eat it super hot (sometimes more like a tapenade than a salad). In any case, this version is the best I've had.
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The fresh herbs are what really made this dish. Some day we'll know the names of those herbs.
One of the things that irks me about some of our local Thai restaurants is when they promote their use of authentic Thai herbs on their menu descriptions. Then when the dish comes, it has some cilantro, basil, and possibly spearmint in it. Big whoop. There are all kinds of exotic herbs in our local markets, I don't know why they don't use them like the good places in Southern California or Lotus of Siam in LV does.
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Based on my conversations with Bill at Lotus of Siam, I think there are a few problems finding exotic herbs in restaurant dishes:
1. Many of them are available for only short periods of time, so by the book chefs don't bother.
2. Many of the herbs don't have English names, so they are hard to "promote."
3. Some aren't available at all. Many of the special greens at LOS are grown by Bill in his home garden.
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This was my favorite dish as well. The looked to have small branches from a tree in the booth making the larb. I didn't see if they were taking the leaves off of that to add to the larb, however. We'll just have to ask the next time we go!
-Peter
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The pile of shrubbery that looked like tree branches did make it into this dish. The plant had bright green glossy leaves with small green berries. Early on during set-up while waiting for the rest of the group to arrive, I asked if I could taste it. The berries were distinctly sour with a citrusy taste and the leaves were a bit tough and slightly sour. Now that I think about it, reminded me of fresh lime leaf. Maybe those berries were buds.
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Liver in the laab ("wet" laab, as opposed to "dry", liverless laab) is the northern Thai preparation. The food offered at this temple sounds *very* authentic, and these pictures are making me drool!
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Thanks for the explanation. By northern Thai, do you mean Issan? At Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas, which Dave Feldman references, I was served an Issan-style pork larb that was very different from any I'd been served before.
One question that has come up about these Thai temple lunches is that folks are surprised that meat is served on temple grounds. Do the Thais practice a more flexible form of Buddhism?
Sounds like you're missing Bangkok. If you're able to make it stateside for the picnic in October, let's schedule a temple lunch visit.
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Yes, Issaan --- but also Chiang Mai area as well. One Issaan-style laab I had, though liverless, was made with an interesting combo of dry spices crushed up with the toasted rice. The cook told me what they were in Thai, and my dictionary translated it only as "dry medicinal herbs." The only spice I was able to identify was Sichuan peppercorn -- the others remain a mystery. But the laab was delicous.Yes, Thais are as flexible about the practice of Buddhism as they are about everything else. There are alot of small, anonymous vegetarian restaurants in Bangkok though ... and one of the best laabs I ever had was at one of these. Did not miss the meat at all.I do miss Bangkok --- Vietnamese food is fine but....Thai rules, IMO! I'll keep a rendezvous at the San Bruno Temple in mind, Melanie!
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Food shouldn't be allowed to look this good.
This does it. I hereby commit to an eating trip to SF within a year's time. I'm thinking maybe March, 2004. Please don't deplete all the food before I get there.
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Are you drooling over just one picture of a dish a day? (g)
I'm glad to hear that you're finally coming to visit us. Thai is one of our weakest cuisines, imo. But never fear, we'll find something to eat.
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Rarely do photos of food make me go nuts. I wanted to eat the "condiment," but I wanted to frame the larb picture, which I think is gorgeous. Strike that. I'd rather eat it than frame it.
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Melanie, your photos are the best! I really enjoyed our experience at the Thai Temple - the larb was the best I've tasted. I loved watching the ladies prepare both the larb and the papaya salad - they were so friendly! I felt like I was a guest at a Thai home. It was so much fun and Bob thoroughly enjoyed everything I brought home for him. I couldn't eat another thing the rest of the day (except some sticky rice and mango)! You probably mention this further down in the posts but the sticky rice and mango with coconut cream was also one of the best I've had - the salt is what's usually missing and it really makes the dish for me and the Manila mango was perfectly ripe - just the most succulent. I'm looking forward to going back up there again.
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I think my only real complaint about the food was the price. That bowl of duck curry I bought was $4, if I recall correctly and came with about 2 modest pieces of duck. I've got to think the rice plates (which come with several entrees on top of the rice) are probably better deals.
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The amount of food you get at the steam tables seem to fluctuate. Actually, this is true with the fried chicken too.
One time, I got 3 pieces (thigh + drumstick) for $4, another time I got 2.5 pieces for $3, another time I got 2.5 pieces plus sticky rice for $4, and one of my friends one time got 3 pieces for $3, plus some gizzard. (They didn't have gizzard this time - too bad too because it is very different from the chinese version you get at the bbq shops). That same friend brought a tupperware for curry and she paid $5 to have it filled up (it was huge, at least 2 or 3 cups).
But in general, I don't think the temple is very expensive. The papaya salad, the lahb, and the chicken (and noodle soup, $3) are all great deals. I usually spend about $10. It is much cheaper than going to a restaurant.
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Yikes, this looks fabulous. Did you get a name for this dish? It looks too laden with stuff to be "just" a condiment.
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I said it's called "dentures". (g)
We decided it was a condiment because it's impossible to have more than a half spoonful in your mouth at a time. Chew Toy asked me how long it might keep, given that he bought a big glug of it. My response was that nothing, but nothing could grow in that concentration of capsicum.
Maybe he can find out for us when he returns. . . which I think will be soon.
Link: http://chowhound.safeshopper.com/23/c...
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Still no definitive word on how long this stuff will last as I devoured the rest of it shortly after returning home. Darn - looks like I'll have to go get another sample.
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Did you eat it straight? With veggies or???
Since Dave probably isn't satisfied with the seeming name for this spicy bunch of love, could you please find that out too? Since you have the inside track with the ladies there . . .
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"Spicy bunch of love" works for me. How does that translate into Thai?
I ate it with the veggies at first but then put the veggies aside and concentrated on the SBOL.
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Maybe a better handle for you! (gg)
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My efforts did indeed pay off. This papaya salad was literally bursting with flavor. Yes, it was hot, maybe even very hot, but the heat was perfectly balaced with the sweet and sour flavors that make this salad so wonderful. What a kick to have it made to order!
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This thread has gotten so big I can't figure out where my posting belongs....
About the salad prep: They use hand-chopped green papaya, which is supposedly the best way to do it if you want pieces that are not too big (no flavor) and not too small. I was talking to the women making the salad and they emphasized how fresh this salad is, and also how work-intensive it is.
This is the best version of green papaya salad I've had in SF. Careful when ordering though because one time I asked for spicy and it was so spicy I couldn't eat it. I had to go buy some cabbage and use a 4:1 cabbage to salad ratio.
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I was transfixed watching the process of random chopping cuts and shaving of the giant green papaya. I'm so glad we got to see that, as I had no idea of the technique.
We have Chew Toy's delicate taste buds to thank for hitting the spicy balance of our salad.
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a random collection of thoughts:
The only things not home-made are:
1) chive dumplings (I saw her take them out of a package)
2) the sauce for the fried chicken (comes out of a bottle)
Since the San Bruno lunch is much smaller than the Berkeley lunch, you are much closer to the action. There's a lot to see here in terms of watching them cook. Move over Benihana!
The only things we didn't try were:
1) noodle soup
2) green and white wormy-looking dessert
3) two what-looked-like-stews - prepared by the same woman who had the yummy condiment (She didn't speak english so it was tough to ask her what things were).
The desserts and the hot foods (ie, curry, pork and eggs, fish) change weekly.
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Adding a link for the report of my first visit in 2003 to Wat Buddhapradeep in San Bruno.
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Wat Buddhapradeep
310 Poplar Ave, San Bruno, CA
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