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Mar 10, 2001 07:12 PM

Malagueta: New Brazilian in Astoria

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Last night, my husband and I tried Malagueta, a new Brazilian restaurant in Astoria (25-35 36th Ave., corner of 28th St., 718-937-4821). Everything we had was good, some of it quite good. We ordered 3 appetizers: salmon cakes with corn and bean salad (a special), warm lentil salad with goat cheese, and steamed mussels with fine herbs and tomato sauce. The salmon cakes and lentil salad were really delicious; the mussels were okay but not great. For entrees, we ordered feijoada, “the Brazilian national dish,” a black bean stew with meat and sausage, and moqueca de camarao, shrimp stew. We didn’t love the feijoada, although I think it was probably well-prepared and just might not be our kind of dish. The shrimp stew was very tasty.

The place itself is small (about a dozen tables), the decor very understated and tasteful, especially by local standards. The food is presented artfully, but the amount of meat and shrimp in the entrees was somewhat on the meager side. Our waiter was very attentive and eager to please. Dinner with tip but no drinks came to around $54. All in all, seems like a good addition to the neighborhood.

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