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La Tavola on 92 St. in Bay Ridge

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Michael May 30, 2000 03:33 AM

I had an enjoyable dinner there last Sunday, so I thought I would post about it. The place is not cheap. It cost me some $25 + tip for tortellini in brodo and scampi with part of an artichoke, some broccoli, and rice, without wine or any other beverage but tap water. But though the broth of the soup was a bit salty, the tortellini were wonderful, very garlicky, and not at all like the bland ones I'm used to at Frutti di Mare in the East Village, and the Parmesan cheese the waiter added to the soup at my request seemed particularly good (maybe I was hungry :-). The scampi were not as spectacular as the soup, but the dish was absolutely beyond serious objection for what it was: The broccoli was cooked just perfectly, so that it was done while still being slightly chewy throughout; the artichoke though, regrettably, not provided in large quantity (quite a bit less than half of one), was cooked inventively with the spicy variety of Hungarian paprika; the fresh-tasting breaded, fried shrimp were simple but tasty, and one could have objected (perhaps a bit illogically, given the nature of the dish) only to the fat content; even the rice was cooked simply but came out with a subtle tastiness.

Well, OK, the restaurant didn't seem like a threat to Da Gano in Siena or the incredible place I ate in near Tarquinia Scalo, but it didn't seem surprising that the restaurant got an award in 1991 for being one of the 15 best restaurants in Brooklyn or something (as I read from outside the window before going in).

The service was friendly, and their bread came hot, with sesame seeds on top, and was very nice. If I have a reason to be in Bay Ridge again, I would consider going back.