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Mar 21, 1999 09:34 AM

Bo is still open!

  • g

Took a chance and ran by 59th & Kissena Blvd on
Saturday night - Bo has pretty lively food for such a
dead place.

Quick notes...

Potato pancakes are gummy and skippable...steamed
short ribs with veggies were deeply flavorful and
succulent...sauteed pork with fiery kimchi was set off
by some triangles of soothing tofu...shrimp with baby
bokchoy - nicely done, with tasty, almost over rich
sauce, but I gotta tell you, the small portion of
small shrimp was disappointing.

I didn't stay to check out any deserts, but the staff
themselves were some of the sweetest people I've met
in months. (When one of my companions dribbled sauce
down his shirt, the chef herself presented him with
handy Tide-wipe)

Overall, I rather liked Bo, but wouldn't make an
overly long trek to get to it. Luckily, I'm a bit
more local, so I'm going back to try that chicken
ginseng soup someone mentioned a few days back.

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  1. The gumminess and starchy pull of their potato pancakes
    make it similar to Japanese preparations of their white
    yam. It is a wonderful way of using the potato's
    starch. Bo's chef once mentioned that she merely grated
    the potato, with no flours or binder added, effecting a
    rather pure and essential transformation. When a minute
    drop or two of dipping sauce is applied, the flavors
    balance wonderfully.

    1. Hey, Governor. I'm glad you went, and happy you liked some stuff, but I've got to address a few points (please understand that I'm not trying to step on or devalue your opinions...I'd just like to try to clarify some things):

      "Potato pancakes are gummy and skippable"
      They're not Jewish or Eastern European style potato pancakes, so that may have thrown you (as Allan said, the potato has a different texture). I find them absolutely superb; a brilliant achievement

      "I gotta tell you, the small portion of small shrimp was disappointing"
      she charges commensurately little for it. And this kitchen makes careful food, not hearty piles of it. And it's also a matter of careful ordering (or consulting with Maria); I have a pretty healthy appetite myself, and I never leave hungry after all the panchan...and soup...and an app and entree

      "I rather liked Bo, but wouldn't make an overly long trek to get to it"
      The food there is extremely subtle and it beguiles in a very low-profile way. Go twice more and you'll be willing to drive from ANYWHERE to get to it, promise.