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Nov 22, 1998 01:58 PM

Superb Sicilian deli

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One ought to try the soft milky mozzarella made at
Varsi's Deli, on 149th Street near 17th Avenue in
Whitestone. They make meat ravioli with a
kreplach-like filling that is superb. We've boiled
them and dressed 'em with sauteed onions, fennel
weed, sultanas and pine nuts. A chipotle pepper would
not be out of place. Their swiss chard ravioli
suffers from a heavy-hand with ricotta. Also, quite
unusual is their importation of round loaves from
Terranova off of Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. Their
specialties are a welcome relief from the
standardization of cheese and pastas.

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