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#1 Chowdown of 2003:Report (very very long)

  • t

That was a great dinner at China Village in Albany! Thank you, Ericf, for recomending it, and Ruth, for organizing it! With the flavors still fresh in memory, I figure now is best time to work out those calories. :)

I confess that I failed to report to Chowhound when I first discovered this place last week while apt-hunting in Albany. It's at Ramona ant Sonano with a rather ordinary decor and green/white facade. They opened about 9 month ago. Even since I discovered their cold fun (mungbean jello), Dandan Noodle and sesame flat bread,I've been back 3 times to order take-out (from the southside of UC campus! :) ). So when Melanie asked me if I'd like to join for the Chowdown, I couldn't believe it! I'd get to taste all those dishes with the adventurous chowhounds!

Ruth, Melanie, Celery, Derek, Loraine, David, Ambria, Falicia, George and Falice came for the #1 chowdown 2003 too. (I am really bad at spelling people's names so do correct me if I misspelled). The Chinese New Year papercuts were up all over the place & the tables were quite empty. I think we were the only table in the second room.

My Mandarin came in handy while ordering, since, honestly, the English translation of their menu (150 items! Not including the Chinese blackboard) can be quite misleading. The hot-spicy Pork feet was in fact pig elbow (or trottle?). Derek had to use his arm to illustrate. :) The ordering was quite chaotic. We had so many choice! The waiter (or the manager? There were only one other waiter and one bus boy the whole time) was very helpful in cordinating the dishes. His English about food may be better than mine. Here are what we ordered:

Cold Plate:

1. Spicy Combination (aka:Husband and Wife--beef and tripe slices)
2. Sliced Side Pork with Spicy Garlic Sauce
3. Five Spicy Pig Ear
4. Spicy Diced Rabbit
5. Cucumber with Garlic Sauce

Main Dish:
1. Pickled Chili and Frogs (not on the menu)
2. Home Style(So-called) Pig feet (with red dates)
3. Stir Fried Beef with Chinese Celery
4. Village Special Lamb
5. Fire-Bursted Tripe--It is IN FACT Intestine.
6. Steamed Mandarin Fish (not on the Menu)
7. Tea smoked Duck
for veggie:
8. Hot Bruised Bean Curd (aka Ma-po Tofu)
9. Spicy Sauce Potato Strips
10.Chili Sauteed Mustard Green
(We thought we ordered: Water-boiled beef)

SzeChwan's Speciality:
1. Spicy Cold Fun (they have two variations:Zang Style or Chen Du Style. I odered both but only one came, might be the Zang one)
2. Sesame Flat Bread
3. Dandan Noodle

First came the Cold Plate 1-4. Derek had to hold off his chopsticks to let Melanie take some pics first. The Spicy Combination was very authentic, with miced cilantra; the boiled and sliced Pork Belly was soft and not fatty, each slice nicely folded bathing in an excellent spicy garlic sauce; Five Spice Pig Ear wasn't that spicy at all--crunchy with a little kick from the gralic shoot garnishes; Spicy Dice Rabbit was kind of hard in texture--you bite on it & thought:"SO What!", 15 seconds later the vicious spice kicks in and make the tip of your tongue,the inside of your mouth go numb. Whew, beer! Then came stacked cucumbers coated with garlic bits. Talking about Garlic Power! The cucumber cubes was crispy, firm (we suspect it might have been salted/cured) but the garlic flavor was seriously intense. All the cold dishes were tasty and spicy but the spicyness are entirely different. If I am really into it, i should try one dish at a time and figure out which group of taste buds gets busted for which.

Now the main Dishes: They are all very well presented with pretty red flower garnishes on the plate. The pickled Chili was very interesting--a little sour but still spicy. The frog was very tender--definately much tender than chicken. :) The Village Special Lamb was very good. The lamb had a very mild cummin taste to it& still very tender. The Stir Fried Beef with celery was OK. I wonder if that's because my mouth has overdosed n spices--the celery was nice. The Pork trottle was good--I just like the red dates much better. The bowl of cold fun (strips of clear jello make of mung bean, covered with hot, sweet and sour sauces) came around this time & everyone was struggling with the serving spoon and chopsticks. I think the bowl was mean to be eaten by one person, scooping everything with a spoon. Oh well, we resorted to forks. By this time, my plate had been completely occupied with a mess of different sauces, so I couldn't really tell which flavor the cold fun was.
Time to change plates for the steamed fish. It was deboned and soaked in a gingery sweet and salty clear sauce. The fish was very good (don't know if it's really freshly shiped from China, live), the sauce was saltier than the Cantonese ones I am used to. The fire-busted Intestines were crunchy outside and soft inside. I can't describe the taste--it's very good and you'd have to try it yourself. :) The potato Strips are really great too: it has chili in it but was not realy spicy--it has excellent flavors for such a simple dish. The Hot Buised (braised and MaPo) tofu was OK. The tofu was tender little cubes (how come I can never get the cubes stay intact?) with black beans in it. We were surprised that there were no meat in it. The Mustard Green with Chili was very pretty--green and red. My mouth was numb & can't really process any flavor anymore. But it was crunchy. The manager was obviously very proud of this dish--he gave me a whole lecture of how the right timing and mixture of the chili with the mustard the tartness of the vegie into smoky flavor. Hummn, maybe I should've paid more attention, right. Somewhere in between those dishes, the sesame flat bread came. I love it! It's layered with sprinkled green onions freshly baked with golden crunchy & flaky outside. Yumm.
After having this bread, it's hard to eat the bun that came with the Tea Smoked Duck. I don't know how it's supposed to be but this one is a little on the dry side & I don't really get the bun thing.
By this time, we were still wondering if we were going to get the ultimate spicy challenge: Water-boiled beef. No so, the finale Dandan Noodle came in little bowls. Melanie said the noddle wasn't right but the flavor was. I like the dry ground pork bits and the sauce. The noodle was OK--it tasted like Shanghai egg noddles from the Asian supermartets.
After the watermelon and jackfruit slices, we got our fortune cookies and the bill: All the dishes+rice + beer (4 big bottles of Tsingdao) +Tax+Tip came to $242 ($22 a head. Loraine got tons of singles. :)).

We stayed and talked a bit longer. It's so great to chow with the hounds! Afterwards, we talked to the Manager a bit. He was very into spices and tried to explain to me the difference of the peppercorns. Apparently, you can't get the numbing and spicy sichuan qiyang pepper corns in California because of some controlled substance. That explains why I couldn't find it anywhere in 99 Ranch. Interesting.

Highlight:
Slice Pork with Spicy Garlic
Cucumber with Garlic
fire bursted Tripe
Frog with pickled Chili
Village Special Lamb

Near-Miss:
Tea Smoked Duck
Hot braised Tofu.

What we couldn't bring ourselves to order:
Turtle
Blood Tofu

Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

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  1. Well, I am glad to hear that a good time was had. Sorry I couldn't be there.

    I had the water-boiled beef the other day, and must say that I enjoyed it quite a lot. Beef and bok choy in an incredibly spicy ma-la broth that must have been based on stock, because it tasted quite rich. I haven't had much experience with this dish, but in the past have gotten sort of watery versions. This was not.

    Also had the Szechwan style spicy fish, which was just (la) chili-hot, lacking the peppercorns, but with a nice smooth sauce as well as Chinese celery.

    Thanks for the summary, tingting. Coincidentally, I've a friend whose Chinese name is also Ting-Ting.

    Cheers,
    ericf

    Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

    1 Reply
    1. re: ericf

      Eric, thanks so much for giving us the heads up! I really enjoyed our dinner last night and am sorry you couldn't join us. Next time, ok? There's still a bunch of interesting things we didn't get a chance to try.

      Water-boiled beef or pork is my favorite dish at the House of YuRong et al. I'll be interested to try China Village's version. Fyi, the manager said they're not connected by ownership, but don't know the about former staff. we also learned that the chef is Class I rated (the highest level) in Sichuan cuisine and came from the Grand Hotel in Beijing.

      Here's a picture of the beef with celery. I think I liked this more than others. The subtlety of the celery (even though it is quite strong compared to the local celery we're used to) and garlic flavor were very haunting. Also, the beef had been tenderized a bit, but wasn't flabby the way it is at some Chinese restaurants.

      Image: http://www.chowhound.com/misc/mel/chi...

    2. I just wanted to say thanks for letting me tag along last night! I actually really loved the cold fun, which seemed impenetrable to chili oil, but still cool and tangy from the vingary sauce. It was a great accompaniment to the heavy, spicy meats and reminded me alot of a similar Korean agar side dish.

      7 Replies
      1. re: Maria

        Sorry!
        I must mistyped your name. :) Yeah, I like that dish too. But last night, I wasn't sure which one I ordered and the taste of the cold fun was completed mixed up with other things. Thank you for the description.

        1. re: Tingting

          And thank you for ordering! It was alot of fun. I am curious about the turtle, though. :) Next time!

          1. re: Maria

            Here's one of the specials of the day: fresh frog. When we asked for it to be a different prep and less spicy, our server suggested the pickled chilis for less heat. I think David was spot on in saying those were from La Victoria - very tasty! (g)

            Image: http://www.chowhound.com/misc/mel/chi...

            1. re: Melanie Wong

              Wow, your photos are making me hungry again. :)

              What was the original prep for the frog supposed to be?

              1. re: Maria

                I think he originally suggested the fresh frog ma-la with hot dried chilis. Despite the chaos of ordering (g), he still made some good suggestions on alternative preps for the three things we ordered that weren't on the menu: frog, Mandarin fish, and the mustard greens. For the fish, he also suggested it with bean paste, but said "clear steamed" was better.

          2. re: Tingting

            Some anticipation at the table. I'll let you caption yourselves if you want to be identified.

            Image: http://www.chowhound.com/misc/mel/chi...

          3. re: Maria

            I'm so glad we got to meet you, Maria! Don't be a stranger. Here's a picture of the bean jello-like fun.

            Image: http://www.chowhound.com/misc/mel/chi...

          4. Can I have the address?

            Thanks

            1. China Village
              1335 Solano
              Albany, 94706

              510-525-2285

              1. Excellent report. I pretty much agree with you about the highlights, although I may have been less impressed by the cucumber and the dan dan noodles (I might have been too full by the time the noodles arrived). I also liked the cold fun. Thanks again for bringing this place to everyone's attention--I especially appreciate it because it's right in my neighborhood!

                1 Reply
                1. re: amyd

                  Good to meet you! Here's the cumin-scented stir-fried lamb. Nice medley of flavors from the dried red Sichuan chili peppers, the fresh jalapeƱos, and the red sweet peppers. Eric done good in steering us to the best dishes. (vbg) I was impressed by the quality of lamb used for this dish, very tender and succulent, which may not be traditional but was much appreciated. I've had this at Little Sichuan in San Mateo which has more aggressive spicing and chewier meat.

                  Image: http://www.chowhound.com/misc/mel/chi...