Snow Pea Leaves w Garlic + Salt Baked Squid
- Rose Mar 17, 2005 02:11 PM
I miss my favorite restaurant in Philly (Shiao Lan Kung) which has the most fantastic snow pea leaves w garlic and salt baked squid (well, salt baked anything). There must be a Chinatown restaurant that serves excellent versions of both of these. Please help!
OK, I just did (delivery). Actually, I was going to order from Phoenix Garden but they close too damn early (9:45).
The snow pea leaves were surprisingly good but at $13, a bit pricey (IMO). A healthy dose of salt (not too much though), a lot of oil (not olive oil, but better quality than I'm used to) and fragrant, somewhat mild sliced garlic. I don't normally eat garlic this way and I'm used to it being minced in this dish, but on the whole, this was a winner.
Ordered with my favorite appetizer, scallion pancakes ($3.50). Quite good, maybe even the best I've had, but the lack of a dipping sauce (it's not JUST soy, is it?) was a disappointment.
Also got the (equivalent of) salt baked squid ($12). Sadly, this disappointed. A little soft, a little chewy, I wasn't even sure it wasn't previously frozen. Interesting melange to accompany it: along with the hot pepper (jalapeno?), green and white onion and sliced garlic was lightly pickled ginger ... no, not the pink stuff you get with sushi, but not fresh either (of maybe it was sauteed with it).
Paired it with a well chilled Spanish white (MonteNovo Valdeorras, $9 at Garnet) which had a nice bite, with hints of white grapefruit and pineapple ... a wine to consider if albarinos are not your thing or too pricey.
Oh yeah, I did that because they forgot to deliver my club soda ($1 can).
I would consider going back to Evergreen, but it probably wouldn't be my first choice.
I mean, it's no Shiao Lan Kung ... the place I first discovered this dish.
NY Noodletown, and while your're there try the duck with pea shoots and the sea bass with flowering chives.