209305 Thu Apr 08 20:38:53 -0700 2004 1 18 Manhattan 0 1114742 LA hound returning home for a weeks visit after 7 years on the other side. Who are the must try PASTRY CHEFS in NYC at the moment? Spare no detail. Thu Apr 08 20:38:53 -0700 2004 0 MC 1 1114745 In the interest of full disclosure, I would like to say that I used to work at the Lever House. I do believe, however, that this makes my bid for Deb Snyder’s inclusion to your list to be an informed one. Her menu might be described as deconstructed comfort - with a sense of homey irony. I can’t tell you what she is doing right now, although I am having dinner there on Monday and can get back to you. By the way, I am going for the cookie plate alone. Gramercy, Babbo, and Wallse come to mind in terms of fine dining, but don’t miss Chikalicious on E. 10th St., a tiny dessert bar serving three truly sweet courses. I recall an “amuse bouche” riffing on a tomato/basil flavor combo (seeds and sorbet?), a “main course” of chocolate cake with red wine sauce and black pepper ice cream, and a plate of little marshmallows, tarts, and cookies as “petite fours.” Quite delightful, especially with wine pairings. Thu Apr 08 22:39:42 -0700 2004 1114742 0 Prof. Plum