200877 Mon Apr 21 18:37:12 -0700 2003 16 18 Manhattan 0 1071164 I received an outstanding meal from Chef Dan Barber, at Blue Hill recently. Amuse: Papadom with poached shrimp and scallions (1) Romaine Lettuce Soup with Meyer Lemon, Toasted Walnuts and Apples, with Varnier Fanniere Brut, Avize This was a delicious soup. It has been described as part of the Blue Hill Degustibus Event post, but the Meyer lemon foam on top of the soup was appealing. The acidity of the tiny apple bits in the mid/lower portions of the soup was nice. Nice pairing with a Blanc de Blancs champagne that I had not sampled previously. (2) Poached Hog Island Oyster, Marinated Maine Sea Scallop, Herring Roe and Reisling Gelee, with Domaine Rollin Pernand Vergelesses '98 Stunning dish objectively and subjectively. On the nose, the dish already yielded robust oyster/ocean sensations. The hog islands, when taken in, were equally evocative. Ideally paired with carpaccio of scallop (thicker than carpaccio normally connotes) that was itself pristine-tasting. The herring roe was included in a limited quantity in the gelee/saucing, and added to the ocean sensations. The Reisling gelee was nicely "loose", almost liquid-like in some areas, supple and subtle. I adored this dish and its portrayl of ocean notes. Given the sweet notes in the Reisling gelee, it was not easily ascertainable whether liquid from the inside of the oyster had been utilized in the gelee. (3) Grilled Sardine with Citrus Soy, Gelefied Yellow Beets, Ricotta Cheese and Pine Nuts Excellent dish, permitting the sampling of the quite iode, slightly salty aspects of fresh sardines. Wonderful opportunity to sample the skin, and a reminder that I should never accept canned sardines. I really enjoyed this dish. The soy was nicely suppressed in the citrus soy saucing, which was appropriately of medium consistency. The accompanying cannelloni was very small (shorter than the length of my pinky), and was dominated by the few pine nuts inside. I have noticed an increasing tendency at Blue Hill to use cannelloni or cannelloni-type items as sides. It's a positive development. For example, at the recent Blue Hill James Beard event, the baby lamb had a larger cannelloni as one of the components of the dish -- inside, lamb that was robust in flavor. The cannelloni there was made using mushroom slices. At the Degustibus event, Berkshire pork cannelloni, baby bok choy and spring parsnips had been served, with an obviously larger cannelloni section. (4) Steamed Black Bass with Pink Peppercorns, Juniper Berry, Pea Shoots, and Grapefruit Sauce, with Domaine Le Sang de Callou Vacqueyras '00 This dish was gorgeous, with pink peppercorns having been used in the cooking of the fish, but removed (presumably) except for a smaller amount of it upon serving. The flesh of the bass was cooked slowly, such that there was a certain rigidity (in a positive sense, of texture) to certain segments of the bass and its internal flesh structure was preserved. The flavor of the bass was clearly conveyed, aided by a very gentle grapefruit sauce. The pea shoots, forming a base for the presentation of the fish, were appealing because they had a bit of oil linking them and gave the dish a certain onctuousness that was appropriately suppressed and yet still there. (5) Vermont Baby Lamb with Morel Mushrooms, Romaine Lettuce, Parsnip and Date Puree, with Downing Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2000 The meal continued apace with a very good baby lamb dish. One section of the baby lamb was served bone-on, and there were four or five additional slices served. The lamb's intrinsic flavors were appealing, and the saucing was appropriate, conveying sentiments of darkness (but not too much of that). I was slightly surprised by how attractive the lettuce accompaniment for the baby lamb was, as I do not ordinarily associate that veggie with lamb dishes. It worked wonderfully :) The Romaine had been cooked, but had retained its crispy texture when bitten into. It tempered the intensity of the saucing, giving the lamb dish more of a spring feel. The parsnip and date puree was good as well, even though I would subjectively have preferred a little less sugar. Perhaps parsnip and onion, or date and onion, might work well with the baby lamb as well. A delicious dish. (6) Avocado with Lime Sorbet and Salted Caramel Tuille I have sampled this dish many times. I enjoy sampling things repeatedly, as the dessert can be slightly different given the prior courses that precede it in a meal. This is a dessert that deserves to remain on the menu for a while. (7) Lychee Sorbet with Reisling Gelee and Crystallized Rose Petal I have a weakness for desserts with rose petals, for they confer perfume as well as taste. This is among the most evocative desserts I have taken in at BH. A refreshing, fragranced sorbet served in a martini cup. A little rose petal was lodged within the sorbet, as though the petal had fallen onto a pool of raindrops. Visually appealing, and glorious when taken in. Also, a nice dessert in the context of the meal, because the Reisling gelee (even though used in this dish in moderation) echoes the oyster/scallop/gelee dish earlier in the meal, just like the Romaine in the baby lamb course had brought back a recollection of the Romaine soup that marked the beginning of the meal. (8) Passionfruit Souffle with Passion Fruit Ice Cream This dish has previously been described. Overall, an outstanding meal. :) Mon Apr 21 18:37:12 -0700 2003 0 cabrales 1 1071165 Thanks for the comprehensive postings on Blue Hill, Cabrales. Hopefully the folks asking for info over the last couple of days will be enlightened about what to expect. My interest has certainly been piqued! You obviously are really interested in what the Blue Hill chefs are doing - I am wondering what other restaurants in NY you find offering the same level of stimulation and cuisine? Mon Apr 21 19:16:45 -0700 2003 1071164 0 jen kalb 2 1071179 Jen -- Given my subjective preferences, no NY restaurant is as pleasing as Blue Hill. If SF is included, I'd still prefer BH, but I would be interested in revisiting Laurent Gras' Fifth Floor. Below is what I can copy of the meals I have taken at Blue Hill. Apologies in advance for the length. >> March 2003 I had another very pleasing meal at Blue Hill recently. Mike was again in the kitchen My dining companion had experienced one of Mike's outstanding all-Concord grape meals last year, and had been looking forward to this meal. (1) Beet Veloute. (All dish names unofficial) The meal got off to a good start with a shotglass of beet veloute laced with horseradish sensations. The beet taste was well-conveyed. Interestingly, the texture of the veloute reminded me slightly of pureed tomatoes (including with respect to the little granules one can feel in the mouth for certain tomatoes). Even the color of the veloute was a bit redder, with a slightly more limited amount of purple hues, than certain beets. But it was not just the color of the veloute that was worthy of note visually. The appropriately gentle horseradish, in a thin creamy texture, took its place as a modern-looking blot of white color on top of the veloute. It was wonderful seeing Christopher again. He poured us Proseco, Ombra from the Veneto region, and was wonderful detailed in describing the origins of the name of the producer. (2) Meyer Lemon Sabayon. I was absolutely won over (hmm -- more accurately, won over yet again) by the next course. I was presented with an eggshell (with the top portion removed), nursed within a whimsical-looking ceramic egg holder depicting an adorable little chick! The colors of the egg holder were spring shades; they were cheerful. Christopher winked that the restaurant had placed tracking devices on the two egg holders, as the risk was too great under the circumstances! I soaked up so much pleasure from those egg holders that I admittedly did covet them ... and not just because I have a special interest in eggs and chicken. How perfect that the sabayon inside the eggshell was flavored with Meyer Lemon (another product to which I am drawn)! The acidic, slight sweetness of the Meyer Lemon combined well with the slightly different-tasting hint of sweetness in the sabayon from yolk effects. Inside the sabayon, which occupied much of the inside of the eggshell, was fresh, clear-tasting crabmeat. A few lengths of deep fried squids' legs protruded invitingly from the sabayon. Adjacent to these items was a piece of fried, drier (in a good way) anchovy or similar fish. All the foregoing items were small in size, but flavorful. As with so many other dishes I have received at Blue Hill, this creation was so on target with respect to my subjective preferences for ingredients and the manner in which they are combined that it made me think yet again how fortunate I am to have identified a restaurant in the US that resonates in that way for me. (3) Citrus Cured Salmon with Potato Foam. This little dish was tasty as well. The salmon was presented in chunks, and the citrus elements of the curing had been appropriately controlled and were subtle (in a good way). For me, it was the potato foam that was the prominent component of this dish taste-wise (not in the sense of being more aggressive-tasting than the salmon, but in the sense of capturing interest, through offering unexpectedly pleasing tastes, once in my mouth). I am uncertain whether this was intended, but this pleased me considerably. It toyed with the notion of what a diner should expect when being presented with a dish visually. Why shouldn't it be the potato foam that is more interesting when taken in? I've had my share of potato foams at different restaurants. Here, the potato foam, while prominent with respect to taste interest, was still subtle and very well-executed. It had a hint of an unusual (in a very good way) kind of sweetness, and yet conveyed starchy sensations (despite its texture). Also, I appreciated that the foam was not too "cappuccino-froth"-like. (4) Sea Scallops with Romaine Sauce and Endives. Adorable dish, with slices of fairly large Maine sea scallops conveying their intrinsic flavors. A clean dish filled with conviction on the part of the chef. The accompaniments to the scallops, which had a bit of olive oil and a very little bit (appropriately) of fleur de sel on them, reminded me of a garden after a bit of rain. A very appealing Romaine sauce that was included in an appropriate quantity. Raw (?) endive sections, cut-up, and microgreens continued the refreshing aspects of the dish. This was as delicious as the sea scallop carpaccio that Dan had made for me a week before, yet the two dishes were very distinct. It is meaningful that Dan had Mike had each made a scallop dish and a trout dish (see below) for me, that I liked all of the dishes, and that the dishes had come out quite distinctly. For example, Dan has furnished smoked trout. (5) Local Blue Trout, Roasted Beets, Pinenuts and Grapefruit. Such a gentle dish. The trout was delicious in a soothing way. It was nice that the beets were not "loud" either. I liked the beet components interwoven into this meal. The pinenuts did express themselves in this dish, imparting a bit of depth to the dish. The grapefruit were appropriately muted within the context of this dish. (I neglected to note the paired wines for this and the prior course.) (6) Duck with Beet Puree and Kelp. This dish was very well-executed. Of note was the type of duck utilized, which a small farmer had been breeding to constitute a cross between a French and a Dutch duck. The flesh was flavorful, and there were reasonable amounts of fat between the skin and the flesh. The beet puree was interesting, imparting not only a bit of sweetness but also some complexity. (I wonder what kind of stock or other item had been incorporated into the puree?) Kelp is not ordinarily associated with duck, but here the combination worked. The wine pairing was, I believe, Acanzio Mauro Molino (spelling), 2000. (7) Fruit Canneloni -- Mango, Passionfruit, Bananas Two canneloni flavored with fruit had a coulis-like mixture with passionfruit seeds to top them. This course was appropriate, with the tapioca and coconut components being helpful. The wine paired was a Coteaux du Layon, 2000, a late-harvest Chenin Blanc. (8) Lemon Trio -- Lemon Yoghurt; Lemon Curd Ice Cream; Lemon Tart. I liked this dessert. The lemon tart was delicious, with a nice caramelized thin tuile on top of the tart. Good base for the tart, and good control of sweetness vs. acidity in the tart. The item served in a shotglass had wonderful sweetened lemon peels woven into; in that context, the bitterness of the peel was also presented, conveying a taste slightly reminiscent of kumquat. Overall, a very good meal from Mike. A separate recent meal from Dan follows: I was almost giddy with anticipation, as I stepped into the doors of my subjectively preferred restaurant (still) in the US. Jean-Paul welcomed me, as did the various other dining room team members. An adjacent table had former Mayor Dinkins and Ed Bradley (spelling) among the large number of diners. I had brought an ‘85 Salon, and the team was very gracious about handling that. The amuses were appropriate. Duck proscuitto with apricot puree featured a piece of duck that was not as thin as proscuitto might sometimes connote, and that was also smoother in texture than one anticipates for duck. Interesting (in a good way). While I do not generally prefer apricot, the puree accompanying the duck was nicely made, with a suppression of the sweetness that can be excessive in apricot concoctions elsewhere. A small addition of baby greens on the side of the plate was not sampled. The second amuse was a small shotglass of brocoli or similar veloute with parmesan. My dining companion and I agreed that there was a distinctive meat-based sensation to the veloute – perhaps from bacon (his guess) or veal stock (mine). (1) Carpaccio of scallops with Meyer lemon This was a very nice dish, with the freshness and controlled acidity of Meyer lemon interwoven into the thin, oil-based saucing. There were strands of Meyer lemon peel that added a hint of bitterness, highlighting the good intrinsic quality of the scallops utilized. Sprinkles of fleur de sel and diced chives were appropriate too, although I might have subjectively preferred just slightly fewer grains. (2) Monkfish with golden beets, pinenuts and soy beans This dish was delicious, with the monkfish appropriately cooked incompletely. Golden beets in small, round slices of medium thickness formed a “base” when they were placed in an overlapping manner to form a larger circular shape. They were less acidic than the average burgundy-colored beet, and were therefore a more softer background (appropriately) for the monkfish. The beets were also not unduly sweet; they had sweetness, but it was appropriately limited (due to the intrinsic characteristics of the beet). A pairing with the monkfish that worked. The pinenuts were surprising with the monkfish, but welcomed. They went well with the green, slightly crunchy texture of the soy beans too. There was a very little bit of vegetable shoot on top of the piece of monkfish. Also, the saucing was of an appealing consistency, having almost connotations of what an egg yolk (when heavily diluted) might bring. The saucing contained bits of chives too. (3) Smoked trout with walnuts and cider and soy A large filet of smoked trout that had nicely strong soy sensations on the nose, but not in the mouth. I liked this dish too, despite an initial question about the softness of the flesh of the trout. The smokiness was appropriately limited, and there was a certain limited darkness from the cider and jus-based saucing. I am ordinarily not a big fan of walnuts, but in this dish they were appropriate. Our dining party moved onto a super red Bordeaux for this dish. (4) Roasted poussin with black truffles, porcini, chickpea salad and homous A well-executed dish that was also delicious. Poussin pieces were very moist and smooth-tasting. Very flavorful at the same time. The black truffles and porcini in thin strands were complementary in adding to the aromas and the intensity of the dish. These two accompaniments were appropriate, as were the whole chickpeas and the muted homous. (5) Lime sorbet, avocado dessert with caramel tuile Mike had given me a taste of this dessert when it was at an earlier stage in its conception. I liked it better then, given that the sorbet appeared more acidic and stark in this iteration and the avocado in Mike’s original version seemed somewhat more ripe and therefore more imbued with fat. In this version, the circular tuile carried more butter sensations and there was also a sticky sensation (involving stickiness to the teeth) that was an improvement from the original tuile. I do not recall whether the original version I sampled had the little slivers of lime confit on the plate adjacent to the avocado base for this dessert. I still like the small dicing of the avocados, and the fact that they seemed integrated into one another. (6) Green apple sorbet with green apple cream and something else This might be a creation of the new pastry chef, hailing from France. In using not that many different flavors, this pastry chef has the potential to be in keeping with BH’s mentality for savory courses of highlighting ingredients (7) Passionfruit souffle with passionfruit ice cream I liked this dessert. The souffle was nicely done; served in a large cup-like clear glass container that had nice steel handles in a good shape. The souffle was not unduly sweet, and its texture and flavor were appropriate. The passionfruit ice cream was served on a Chinese-rsetaurant-like porcelain spoon. This also appears to be a creation of the new pastry chef. Mignardises were small madelaines, served with a jar of orange marmelade. >> February 2003 I had a very good meal at Blue Hill recently. Mike and Dan were both on hand, and the restaurant dining room and kitchen teams handled impeccably an unanticipated change in my dining plans. The meal led me to think I have not been to BH nearly enough of late. (1) Amuses: -- Hog Island oysters with grapefruit and citrus granite: Two wonderful oysters, their tastes of the sea sharpened by the muted citrus tones. -- Spanish mackerel, with celery and onion compote: This was an attractive tidbit, with a sliver of raw celery and the darkness of an onion compote that had tiny black raisins folded into them. The onion compote had a hint of a spice like cumin or cardamom (?). As usual, I began the meal drinking champagne. (2) Spanish mackerel tartare with pomegranate sauce: A nice choice of back-to-back Spanish mackerel, with the amuse bite having been nicely cooked and the first appetizer presented as dices in tartare. The tartare was lyrically presented in a square shape, with little bits of deep pink pomegranate flesh sparsely included on top. Chives and a bit of fleur de sel had also been sprinkled. Burgundy is my favorite color, and here the pomegranate saucing was a deep, mature pink. This dish was not only visually appealing, but also delicious This dish pleased me so. The flesh of the mackerel was clear and impeccable in taste. A nice control of the acidity in the pomegranate, which also carried sweetness. (3) Maine scallops with chanterelles and leek sauce: This was a nicely executed dish, with an abundance of sauteed chanterelles (among my favorite mushrooms) and an appropriate leek sauce. Paired with a glass of Rieseling. A nice dish, but perhaps (only in a relative sense, to be clear) my leaste favorite dish of the evening. (4) Braised cod with cabbage and herring roe sauce. This is a relative of the bass with herring roe sauce dish I had sampled at BH with XXX a few months ago (the bass dish was among the best dishes I have ever sampled there). A nicely constrained butteriness to the cabbage, and commendable utilization of smokiness in the saucing of the dish. The slow-cooked cod was perfect in texture -- with a bit of "crispness" and a great deal of flavor. Cod is not ordinarily a fish I go out of my way to order. At BH, however, I would definitely be most happy taking in this or any other cod dish. I liked this dish very much. It was paired with a white Burgundy, Montaigny. For reasons on which I would rather not expound, I had contemplated ordering a la carte at the beginning of the meal. I had had my eye on the braised cod (along with a baby beef dish that had been included on that night's tasting menu) as my entree choice. Although I ended up asking Mike and Dan to cook for me, they served up, without any hints from me, what I would have ordered explicitly Could a restaurant be more endearing than that? (5) Violet Farms chicken with escaroles, carrots and black truffle sauce. Yes, the restaurant could serve me luscious chicken with fattiness of the skin exhibited. Three "round" compositions of chicken meat sections (it was white meat, but it was very smooth and had the flavor and intensity of dark meat) "wrapped" around escarole. The fattiness of the skin was outstanding, as was the quality of the chicken flesh. I would not have imagined carrots to be a tasty combination with black trufles, but at BH this combination was very appealing. A rusticity and slight sweetness from the carrots went well, for some reason I am further considering, with the black truffle sensations. I enjoyed this dish very much. (6) Apple terrine and gingerbread ice cream: This dish was fairly good, but I usually find gingerbread compositions at any restaurant a bit stark and this was no exception. (7) "Dollops" of Chestnut Puree with kumquat, and vanilla ice cream: A very promising dessert that included luscious, lukewarm dollops of chestnut puree. Granularity of the puree conveyed delightfully one of the key qualities of chestnut. Beautiful! Where this dish might benefit from a very minor amount of tweaking would be the kumquat, which were appropriate to add, but perhaps could have been cut up a bit more to be less strong relative to the chestnut puree. Nice utilization of vanilla ice cream for balance in the dish. (8) Avocado with Lime Sorbet and Caramel Tuile: A wonderful dessert. Diced, "just right" (with respect to ripeness) avocado bits were included in a circular-shape. Then, a caramel tuile and little curled ribbons of caramel that were nicely more elastic. The acidity of the lime sorbet was just right as well. A dessert I found to be very tasty. I really enjoy dining at BH. >> November 2002 -- Amex Food & Wine Best New Chefs Event at Blue Hill I had a good-plus dinner at Blue Hill tonight in connection with the AmEx/Food & Wine Best New Chefs series for NY. The dishes and wine pairings are set forth below: (1) Assorted Hors d'Oeuvres, Dan & Mike, Champagne Pol Roger Brut Within 5 minutes of my arrival, I had decided that I needed to position myself right next to the pathway from the kitchen in order to maximize my intake of Blue Hill hors d'oeuvres. These items refelcted Dan's catering expertise, and were stunning. They included, among other things: (1) an appealing eggplant puree (very gentle) atop a black corn tart (I had tasted this as part of my meal at BH recently taken in with my sibling), an item enhanced possibly by tomato water (?) -- this I greedily had at least three of over the course of session, (2) spanish mackerel (I assumed this had been slow-cooked; it might have been on papardom or not, and it had a nice flavor), (3) ***quail egg, fried, atop a piece of luscious salmon belly in a thin crisp pastry cup (nice control of saltiness -- I was won over -- err, again ; I admit I had at least two of these, (4) a miniature version of the restaurant's crabmeat lasagne dish (appropriately salted and realy nice in a smaller quantity), (5) a miniature pan of foie gras (which I did not succeed in sampling), (6) a shotglass of cauliflower soup (appealing), (6) a "fatter" glass (also functioning as a candle holder, but stunning in either role) of mushroom veloute (nice, perhaps with a hint of truffle oil which was not necessary), and (7) an appealing salmon belly item (possibly with pickles). One of the two soup-like items had a single mussel in it that was poignant. Overall, I thought the hors d'oeuvres were very good. Note that the presentation format of the different items being circulated was visually appealing -- little platters with rocks; slender plates cradling several items, etc. (2) Seared Bay Scallops, sea beans, black radish, smoked eel from Wylie Dufreshne of WD50 (F&W Best New Chef 2001), with Christian Moreau Chablis 2000 Apart from Mike/Dan's hors d'oeuvres, this was the best part of the meal. The slight sweetness of the bay scallops against the slight horseradish like aspects of the radish on top of the scallops and the obvious smokiness of the little bits of eel surrounding the scallops. Also, the matte texture of the smoked eel against the arguably quasi-crisp texture, which was also imbued with softeness, of the scallops. Dufresne talked to each table, and I articulated to him my views on his dish. We differed slightly on whether the sea beans had a role. I told him Trotter has been utilziing sea bean in certain dishes of late, and that I did not see a particularly necessary role for the beans. He indicated the beans gave the dish an iodine taste; I noted that wakame would have been a better choice for that, and he did not disagree. The saucing was a relatively salty (in a good way) "white" sauce, with perhaps a bit of smokiness. The wine guy described the paired Chablis as offering minerality, being dry, and furnishing "a bracing edge of acidity". It was appropriate for the dish. Subjectively, I would have preferred this very nice dish paired with a Chassagne-Montrachet, which would have played with the smokiness in the dish. However, the Chablis was also an appropriate pairing. The ingredients for lime/garlic jus were garlic cloves, chicken stock, lime juice and salt and pepper. The other products utilized were bay scallops, butter, sea beans, smoked eel, black radish, salt, cayenne and diced mint. (3) Creme de Gibier with foie gras, chestnut, and macoon apple from Andrew Carmellini of Cafe Boulud (BNC 2000), with Chateau Genot Boulanger Mersault Clos du Cromin 1999 The thickish soup from Carmellini was served in a "Cafe Boulud"-label soup bowl. It was slightly disappointing because its overall sensation was one of its texture (a nice, medium-consistency texture) and of sweetness, instead of the darkness of game that I subjectively prefer. Nice diced bits of foie, and utilization of chestnuts. The apples were almost like very soft potatoes, except that they carried a bit of acidity. A bit lacking in the dark, dark connotations of game, and therefore a dish that fell below that of which Carmellini is presumably capable. According to the recipe provided by AmEx/F&W, the ingredients utilized for this dish were 3 wild game birds: squab, pheasant, guinea hen; onions, celery, leeks, apples, celery root, chestnuts, mushrooms, foie gras, cream, chicken stock, vegetable oil and hazelnuts. The man who was introducing the wines (who was apparently the same man as had introduced wines in Chicago) noted that there had been some "controversy" among applicable chefs as to whether this or Dufresne's scallops dish should be served first. All I can say is that it was evident Dufresne's dish should have been served first (who was engaged in this controversy? ) The Mersault was introduced by this man in such a fashion that it could have been targetted to an audience with zero wine knowledge (e.g., the served Mersault is a Burgundy -- no kidding? ). However, this was not a fault of the chefs, and it was a reflection of the person conducting the wine service, which was apparently from the importer for the relevant wines. (4) Pepper-Seared Venison Loin with Braised Red Cabbage, Glazed Turnips and Orange Juniper Armagnac Jus from Scott Bryan of Veritas (BNC 1996), with Paul Jaboulet Cornas Domaine de St. Pierre 1996 (pure Syrah) Due to the number of guests needing to be served simultaneously (almost 70), we were not individually asked how well done we wanted our venison. That was expected. Thus, I had no issue with the medium preparation of the venison, even though I would have chosen rare, had I been given the chance. The venison was average-plus, with a pronounced flavor of black pepper when taken in. Interestingly, the best part of the dish for me were the little white turnips, which were cooked just right and carried a bit of sweetness. They were rather small, but very appealing to me. The wine was rather nice to sample, and better than I had expected for a Rhone with which I was not particularly familiar. The wine guy indicated it carried notes of blackcurrant, and was almost like blood; he indicated the wine had the flavor of grape, with "a backbone of acidity". (5) Chcooclate-Caramel Panna Cotta with Espresso Foam and Caramel Popcorn from Rocco DiSpirito of Union Pacific (BNC 1999), with Churchill's Ten Year Old Tawny Port This dish was average. The panna cotta was mundane, and the caramelized popcorn did not elevate the otherwise mundane nature of this dish. DiSpirito came by, and was his usual social self. He seemed more animated when I was able to converse with him about his recent menu ( I had visited Union Pacific less than 3weeks previously), but my impression of him remained at best average. In my assessment, this is not a chef who nurtures ingredients, who worries about how his dishes are going to highlight those ingredients. It was fitting that Dan introduced him as the chef who made one of Dan's kitchen team members gasp and indicate she was "in love with him". She certainly couldn't be in love with his dessert on this occasion, had she tasted it. According to the gift bag provided to each guest, the ingredients in this dessert were heavy cream, whole milk, semisweet milk chocolate (preferably Valhrona 66%, coarsely chopped), sugar, powdered gelatin, corn oil, popcorn kernels, espresso beans, espresso coffee, and egg yolks. Amuses were (1) nice bits of marshmallows, (2) a gelee of a flavor similar to apricot, and (3) dark-chocolate-covered almonds. The amuses were presented nicely, and additional almons were included in a little gift bag from Blue Hill in the shopping bag provided to each client. >> November 2002 I had a very good meal at Blue Hill last night. The meal was the first I had had within two days of a prior BH meal. I did not feel any sense of repetition with respect to the cuisine, however. The amuse was a small portion of nicely unanticipated canneloni of lamb with root vegetables. The pasta was supple, and surrounded nicely flavored, somewhat intense-tasting lamb. The orangish-reddish-colored saucing had a sophisticated rusticism to it, and I liked the refreshing morsel of a mini turnip and the two small slices of softened carrots. It was interesting that the hint of cumin in the dish was not in the canneloni portion, but integrated into the sweetened carrots. -- Mushroom Tart -- This was a dish I liked, with a saucing that intrigued me and that was difficult to deconstruct. The thin saucing had an acidity to it that I did not associate with, say, various types of vinegar. It contained mushroom jus, but it was more complex (in a good way) than that and not a saucing which (or a relative of which) I have ever sampled before. The dish was visually appealing, with a longish mushroom tart, described below, on one side and perhaps four or five clusters of small mushroom pieces (including a black trumpet variety and a chanterelle-family variety), presented with a sprig of baby greens in some cases and marinated in others. The mushroom tart was roughly shaped like a wide sausage. Its appearance reminded me of Adria's dish of langoustines wrapped in super-thin porcini slices, which was photographed in P Franey's (spelling) P Franey Cooking with Friends (or a similar title; a book with certain modified recipes from, among others, Guerard, Arzak, Bocuse, Danko). According to Franey, Adria's very thin slices of porcini were achieved by freezing the mushrooms prior to cutting them. The BH mushroom tart had slices of porcini of medium thickness wrapped around potato flesh that was between chunks and puree. Below the potato portion were small bits of cooked down onions imbued with the saucing for the dish described above. An intellectually engaging dish that I liked, although I might need to contemplate the texture of the potato a bit more. -- Spanish Mackerel with Pickled Onions, Pickled Radishes and Parsley Sauce -- This was an appealing dish, exhibiting significant Japanese influences (not just from the pickled vegetables, which were nicely prominent in the dish). The Spanish mackerel was well-prepared, as it as been on other occasions I have sampled this fish at BH. A very interesting saucing that, while clearly containing parsley notes, was more complex (in a good way) and that had more acidity than parsley would suggest. There might have been acidity not only in the pickled vegetables (sweet-sour, complex Japanese-like flavors), but also in the saucing. -- Sea Bass with Smoked Herrings' Eggs, Bak Choy or Similar Veggie, and Cauliflower -- Literally one of the best dishes I have sampled at BH. I considered this dish excellent. With the benefit of hindsight, I would have chosen to take in this dish over Jacque Pic's signature dish at Valence of sea bass with caviar in a champagne sauce (although the latter did have interesting temperature effects when the literally "sheet" of caviar, all atop the bass, was heated up at the table by the bass flesh). At BH, the bass was appropriately cooked, flavorful bass with a bit of smoked herrings' eggs on top and much, much more of such eggs spread beautifully in the medium-consistency saucing surrounding the bass. The saucing was nicely salted, and complemented the caviar-like flavors and, equally significantly, the marked smokiness of the herrings' eggs. When I initially saw the cauliflower (two small bits) included, I wondered whether it was necessary. It was arguably helpful to the dish. I had also initially wondered whether the relative crispiness of the bok choy-like veggie (even though it was sliced up) would have detracted from the bass and herrings' eggs focus, and whether something more supple (like spinach) might have been a better ingredient. A tasting of the dish allayed my initial mental doubts -- the bok choy was not at all conspicuous in the dish and was a good match. -- Capon with Turnip Puree and Chestnuts -- Nicely prepared, smooth flesh, with an appealing piece that had skin appropriately prepared. A nice intensity to the jus-based saucing, of which additional quantities were available in a little soup container placed at our table. I liked the "darkness" of the saucing, against the backdrop of a medium consistency, green-colored, but nicely sweet-ish turnip puree and the sweetness inherent in the chestnuts. -- White Truffle Ice Cream with White Truffles Slices -- A nice, light ice cream infused with a very subtle (appropriately) white truffle taste and topped by three slices of white truffles that had a tiny bit of olive oil and salt on them. I appreciated this pre-dessert considerably. An appealing inclusion of crushed, crunchy walnuts, although I would have subjectively considered the ratio of walnuts to ice cream slightly higher than ideal. -- Quince Granite, Poached Quince, Pear Foam -- This was comparable to the quince dessert I had sampled recently. This time around, I noticed some nice honey-like aromas, whether from the utilizaton of honey in connection with the poached quince or from the natural effects of cooking of the quince. The pear foam was a good match, and particularly interesting as I had recently smelled a ripe quince for the first time (at the hotel/motel/restaurants show) and had discussed with Steve Klc how comparable the aroma was to that of Asian pear. Maya provided the informed and welcoming assistance she did on Monday. Separately, I continued to be unable to take in alcohol, which was a shame in the context of last night's meal. I valued a discussion with Christopher. I was glad Mike was in the kitchen last night. We discussed, among other things, the Spanish mackerel. Mike wondered whether to serve me the same fish as Monday, even though the preparations were distinct. I assured him I liked that fish a lot when received at BH. >> November 2002 I had a good dinner at Blue Hill tonight, though the cuisine may have been slightly less appealing than most meals I have taken in at the restaurant. I was wonderfully welcomed in the dining room, and assisted throughout, by Christopher and by Maya (spelling?). The meal began with a cauliflower veloute in a shotglass, with a rather fluffy-looking celery and apple foam (yes, there had to be apple in the foam ). More than any other soup-based amuses I recall having had at BH, this version seemed to have the foam rather highlighted (in this case, by the low temperature and the unusual aroma akin to that of white pepper that was incorporated; I doubt the ingredient was white pepper, but more on that below). The cauliflower veloute was average. The first course were pan-fried bay scallops with turnips and a parsnip sauce. The preparation method for the scallops was appropriate, but I subjectively found the product's inherent texture not as "crisp" as I prefer. The scallops were cute, little bay scallops, nicely seared on top. Slices of thin white turnip had been set forth underneath the scallops, although they were not evident upon the presentation of the dish to the diner. The turnip had an intrinsic sweetness that had been augmented by perhaps a marination technique (??), and was additive to the dish. The green-colored parsnip sauce was rather savory, and perhaps I would have preferred a more noticeable bit of sweetness in it. This dish, like the amuse, had an aroma that invoked white pepper, although the causal agent was likely not white pepper. Overall, an average dish. Next, Spanish mackerel was presented with pickled black radishes and a green-colored parsley sauce. The fish was prepared just right (slow method, previously described). I like the flavorfulness of Spanish mackerel and the gentle curves in the ridges of its flesh, which I had last sampled as an hors-d'oeuvre at the AmEx/Food & Wine Best New Chefs event. The inside of the fish was, as usual, nicely cool and fleshy. I liked the controlled sweet-and-sour effects inherent in the medium-soft juliennes of pickled radishes considerably when coupled with this particular fish variety. A nice utilization of chives in the parsley saucing, which was nicely moderate in strength of flavor. A dish that I found to be good-to-very-good. Then, two pieces of lamb with nice fat effects along their edges. Nicely prepared no more than medium rare, with a jus-based saucing. I liked the pieces of still-somewhat-crunchy cabbage that had absorbed a bit of the saucing and that were quite tasty. There was a vegetable millefeuille with (deliberately) medium-thick vegetable slices, including carrots, turnips and radishes. The spicing on this vegetable offering carried Moroccan/Middle-Eastern-type flavors that I had somewhat mixed feelings about. The pre-dessert were pears, marinated in a slightly spicy, slightly cinammon-flavored reddish liquid (with a bit of alcohol). A fromage blanc sorbet smoothened out the rustic, wintery notes of this pre-dessert. The pear was incorporated in smallish chunks. This seems to be the winter version of the peach pre-dessert I had sampled on more than one occasion at BH. Our dessert was a quince coupe, consisting of poached quince, quince granite (slightly too "icy"), and lemon shortcake. There were pear connotations in this item. I finished the meal with a double espresso. My temporary inability to take in alcohol remains in place. It was bad enough that I was drinking chilled Martinelli's Sparkling Apple Cider (I prefer Pear) at the eGullet "horizontal" tasting party last night. Alas, I adhered to Pellegrino with lime all night tonight. The dining room team was gracious about my predicament. I am beginning to think that, on certain visits, I could have a slightly-better-than-50% likelihood (50% could presumably be achieved by long-term random guessing in picking a given chef) of detecting correctly which of Mike and Dan is in the kitchen.... >> October 2002 (Concorde Grape Tasting -- very memorable) How can I readily convey my appreciation towards Chef Mike Anthony, Christopher, the dining room team member who primarily assisted us so wonderfully and the remainder of the Blue Hill dining room and kitchen team for having made dinner tonight literally the best meal I have had in New York? (Also, thanks to Dan, who may not have been in the kitchen tonight (?), but of course participated integrally in Concorde grape projects at BH). My reservation predated the front-page-NYT-dining-section article on the utilization of Concorde grapes at Blue Hill. However, my review of the article, with its oversized pictures of plump looking Concorde grapes (both on the vine, and in clusters in the BH kitchen), spurred me to put in a call to Mike yesterday. I asked whether I could have all three of the Concorde grape-based dishes described in the NY article. Mike noted that he could consider an all-Concorde grape tasting menu. Perfect, I thought. The varied guises in which Concorde grapes presented themselves in every dish our dining party sampled charmed me, with respect to pure deliciousness as well as thoughtfulness on the part of Mike. After sampling the gloriousness of the sea urchin dish described below, our dining party asked if Chef Mike Anthony would please increase the number of courses in our all-Concord-grape tasting menu. As always, Mike was happy to assist. Consistent with prior meals at BH, Christopher's wine pairings were outstanding -- and interesting at the same time. Last night's meal unfolded with a shotglass of dairyless corn soup augmented by basil oil. Promising, just like a corn soup with peanut oil I had sampled on a previous occasion. (1) Sea Urchin -- This dish was superb. Sea urchin from Maine was served in its spiky "shell", which I cupped with my fingers at times. There was just the right amount of clear-tasting crabmeat beneath the sea urchin. The urchin flavors were intense, and the sabayon atop it was laced with just the right (limited) sensations from the muted, but arresting, sweetness of Concord grapes. The saucing likely contained Champagne, which controlled (in an appealing way) the sweetness of the grapes. I specifically asked for more sea urchins after having been seduced by this first one, but there were no more in the kitchen. A dish that offered some of my preferred ingredients -- egg, sea urchin, champagne. The wine pairing was Con Class, a Spanish white that was nicely aromatic. This was the first non-white-Rioja Spanish white I had sampled. (2) Monkfish -- This was the only dish on which I had a less-than-entirely-enthusiastic reaction, although the dish overall was still good-plus. Slices of monkfish were accompanied by a sauce that included chicken jus, Concord grapes and lemon thyme. The monkfish was slightly soft in inherent texture relative to my subjective preference, and did not have a strong "elastic"/firm feel. However, the saucing was appealing, and the Concord grapes in this dish were *fascinating*. They were presented whole, with the skin intact. Interestingly, somehow the cooking method resulted in the diner sampling the intensity, tanin-like qualities, "darkness" and slight, slight bitterness (intended) of the cooked grape skin -- separately from the attached succulent, less cooked, flesh interior of the grape. It was as though each little Concord grape was a burst of strong sensations. Wonderfully, mixed in with the unpeeled Concord grapes were pearl onions that were round in shape and that strongly resembled peeled Concord grapes. I had anticipated the peeled and unpeeled grapes being utilized in a dish together, and initially thought I had guessed correctly with respect to this dish. Imagine how amused I was when I bit into the softened, slightly savory onions! A play on not just visual appearances, but potentially also a statement as to the blurring boundaries between the sensations conveyed by fruit and by vegetables. Also mixed in with the Concord grapes and pearl onions were very few bits of potatoes and some diced chives. The wine paired was Domaine Henry from the Languedoc-Rousillon region. (3) Foie Gras -- The utilization of Concord grapes in this dish took such a divergent tone from that in the monkfish creation. Here, the Concord grapes were no longer purplish, but instead a mature, but relatively bright, reddish color. I was enjoying the visual appearance of the grapes while tasting them. The Concord grapes here exhibited a tartness that reminded me of cranberries and red currants. In fact, if I had been asked to guess what the ingredient making up the saucing was outside of the context of an all-Concorde grape meal, I would have guessed with some confidence berries. The foie gras piece had been sauteed, and accompmanied by tellicherry peppercorns. Also appealing was the medium-consistency coconut milk saucing included. It balanced the tartness of the Concord grape saucing, and added almost an almond-like, or otherwise fragrant, aftertaste. The wine chosen was wonderful -- a Muscat from Vineto, Italy, that had lychee tones, among other things, on the nose. (4) Duck -- This dish was outstanding Four or five slices of duck, the flesh flavorful and cooked just right, were sitting on top of a black-colored metallic "burner" (unclear whether coal or special wood utilized). The burner was visually beautiful, having curved lines and a noticeable, rounded base of a quasi-tomato-red color. The duck had just the right amount of fat linking the appropriately cooked skin an the flesh. Separately presented from the duck was a little indented dish of Concord grape dipping sauce, of a medium consistency. Here, the Concord grape was relatively pronounced again, almost as if it were reminding me of the versatility of the grape. The three members of our dining group agreed that the wondeful dipping sauce tasted almost of Concorde grape and white Worcestshire sauce (we were collectively perhaps 85 percent confident). Imagine our surprise when we were advised that the effect had been produced using white soy and yuzu. There was a bit of acidity, that was side by side with intensity. The wine chosen was outstanding -- a 100% Cabernet Franc from the Loire region, Fillatreau. (5) Belle Rouge Chicken -- At this point in the meal, I was expecting lamb or perhaps baby beef. Imagine my subjective pleasure when my dining companions received lamb (with walnut crust) and I receive BELLE ROUGE chicken. As discussed elsewhere on the board, Belle Rouge chicken has only recently begun to be offered in the Union Square Greenmarket. How thoughtful of Mike to have remembered that I am heavily interested in chicken. I had inquired within the last couple of days on the board about what the taste of Belle Rouge chicken might be like. Well, I found out through dinner at BH. The chicken was presented skinless, its flesh a gleaning whitish color. The meat was very smooth, and flavorful. Interestingly, it almost had a very, very muted sense of sweetness and coconut-or-almond-like connotations. I appreciated this dish quite a bit, for purely its taste as well as for the consideration that it embodied. The dish was further enhanced by (1) a single tomato, cooked a bit, and (2) a surprisingly delicate eggplant section, which did not resemble the taste of purple-skinned eggplant and which offered silkiness and subtlety in ways I liked. Again, the wine selection was very good, and reflected thought and a desisre to spur interest. I had a glass of Marion from the Veneto region in Italy (with which I am generally not familiar, but about which I am eager to learn). (6) Pre-dessert of marinated stawberries and bluberries with a Concord grape granite. The granite was dark and intense, in the best possible way. The strawberries had been softened, and were closer to the Concord saucing than the more pristine, fresh-tasting blueberries. The dish was appealing, with mint (and less noticeable lemongrass) rendering the Concord grapes less dominant and providing nice aftertastes. (7) The dessert was very good, and interesting. Unpeeled grapes and peeled grapes were combined in a nuanced sabayon that also contained neutral-tasting slices of small plums and rasberries. The dominant flavor in this beautiful-looking and advanced (with respect to conceptual underpinning and execution) dessert was that of Concord grapes. Interestingly, when the sabayon had been "grilled" on top by exposure to heat, it exuded the sensations on the nose that could have been mistaken for cheese. This was accompanied by a sparkling Riseling. Overall, an excellent dinner, from the cuisinier I prefer in New York. Yummy for the taste buds and for contemplation. >> October 2002 -- Concorde Grape #2 The gorgeous progression of the described Concord grape tasting menu at Blue Hill called for a request for an encore. So I called Mike up to ask if he could secure grapes for a second all-Concord grape meal. As usual, Mike was helpful and inquired whether I contemplated dishes that were distinct from those in the first sequence. Oh, yes, I gleefully retorted, although I would understand if he were to prepare the same dishes for robert and Susan brown and jordyn (my dining companions) to sample. I had a very good meal at Blue Hill tonight. Perhaps not as stunning as the first Concord grape meal, but a meal that was very thoughtfully designed, intelligent and expressive of the grapes. A meal that embodied considerable effort and thought and consideration (e.g., the purchase of grapes from several suppliers, preparation of a Concord grape oil for certain dishes, securing of heirloom eggplants for one of the dishes). For all of those things, I am incredibly grateful to Mike and his team in the kitchen and dining room. A shotglass of warm duck consumme with Concord grape oil was a delicious amuse. As jordyn and I discussed, it was engaging because the inclusion of Concord grape was reflected largely on the nose, when one took in the aromas from the shotglass, instead of in the mouth. As the duck consomme was taken it, its intensity and warmness brought to mind a beef consomme, and some muted Concord grape component could be detected in this heartening liquid (although it would appropriately been more difficult to detect, had I not known that the theme of our menu ). (1) Tuna Toro Tartare with Concord Grape Vinaigrette. This was a very good, and visually arresting, dish. Three or four thin slices of medium-sized radish, its whiteness made more apparent by the reddish tinge along the edges of the slices, almost formed a little, gentle domed cup, like certain flowers, for the interior of toro tartare. The tartare was a dark burgundy color, somewhat like the accompanying saucing of Concord grapes. The saucing was made using a special technique that Mike later described to us and that literally stunned me in terms of the labor involved and the attention to detail paid by Mike (uncooked grapes had been utilized). The saucing had the texture almost of certain tomatoes, with a soft feel of slight vegetable/fruit-like granularity. There were other reasons this dish was tasty. A limited, but appropriate, sprinkling of sea salt had been added to the tartare. This was beneficial to the taste of the tartare, but was amusing to me because it hinted at the texture of what one might imagine finely crushed seeds of Concord grapes might feel like in the mouth. Moreover, the tartare was integrated with the grapes in such an appealing way that the tuna had been transformed beautifully. A dish I liked very much. The wine pairing was Al Vino Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine that conveyed grapiness towards the end of a sip and that had a bit of sweetness. (2) Poached Ruby Red Shrimp with Spaghetti Squash, and Concord Grape and Shrimp Sauce. While some of my dining companions were discussing the inherent merits of ruby red versus "regular" shrimp and their respective textures, I dug into this dish. I liked the slight sweetness and matte feel in the mouth of ruby red shrimp, and these aspects matched the relatively sweet Concord grape saucing well. The sweetness was mitigated by a slight hint of pepperiness which expressed itself slightly later in the saucing. The shrimp flavors in the brown-colored Concord grape saucing were appropriate controlled, and this dish highlighted the ability of the grape to match flavors of the sea well. The spaghetti squash was presented in a mount in thin juliennes, and added a refreshing aspect to the dish. The matched wine was Gewartztraminer, Eisenberg 1997. (3) Poached Wild Halibut with Eggplant Confit, Eggplant Consomme and Concord Grape Gelee. This dish was literally ravishing. Perhaps the best Concord grape dish I have had at BH -- even more expressive than the sea urchin with grape sabayon and the Belle Rouge chicken prepration from the first meal. Two intrinsically flavorful, perfectly cooked (and I do not say this lightly) medium-sized pieces of wild halibut formed, on my plate, almost the shape of a scallp shell, with a spoonful of sweet, perfumed Concord grape gelee nestled inside. The flesh of the halibut was tasty, and the inside had a room temperature and a slight pinkish hue and texture from perfect cooking. The halibut had been placed on top of a reasonably sized, luscious piece of slinky eggplant with a whitish, slightly lavender (?) skin. This eggplant was excellent, being subtly smoky and yet luscious in a "clean" way. Quite subtle (in the best possible way, in my book). The consomme was special as well , bearing certain Asian-like aromas when its aromas were inhaled. A connotation of certain dashi ingredients. A sensation on the nose of the softened intensity of mushrooms, which also appeared in supple juliennes inside the consomme (some of it in mounds). The consomme was at once clear and nuanced, and carried roundness concurrently with a hint of smokiness. It was as though intensity had paired with restraint to produce something that was no longer either. Perhaps the wine paired of Domaine Henry, Rose, from the Languedoc region was slightly stark for this dish. However, the halibut dish itself was truly excellent. It contained a good taste of Concord grapes in the gelee, but embodied so many other flavors. Furthermore, from time to time inside the consomme, there was the same superb preparation of Concord grapes (tanin-like, intense qualities of the skin, still attached to the fleshiness and slipperiness of the insides of the grape) that I had experienced during my first grape meal at BH. A burst of flavor and sunshine to the dish! (4) Slow Roasted Flat Iron Steak with Chestnuts, Brussel Sprouts, Blue Kale and Concord Grape Sauce. A dish showing that Concord grapes can convey intensity and a transfixing "darkness", and yet not overwhelm a dish when cast against beef (in this case, from the shoulder). The beef was in several delicious slices of medium thickness. The aggressiveness of a red meat seemed appropriate at this stage of this meal. The Concord grape saucing enveloped the steak pieces (which were cooked just right) to cast their irresistible spell. Chestnust were nice, and not unduly softened. The brussel sprouts included were tiny, and delicious. The kale was an excellent choice, for it fulfilled some of the roles normally occupied by spinach, and yet was darker and a better choice with the Concord grapes than spinach. The paired wine was a Loire Red. I liked this dish very much as well. (5) Our pre-dessert was a shotglass of Bosc (spelling) pear in a Concord Grape soup with vanilla ice-cream. It was spot-on at this point in the meal. I appreciated the utilization of mint (or a similar item), which was apparent on the nose and also in the aftertaste of this effective pre-dessert. (6) Concord Grape Financier with Concord Grape Sorbet and Blueberry Sorbet. A fitting, wonderful closure to our meal (or so we thought). Paired with a nice glass of Muscat d'Asti, the financier was more intense than the blueberry version that is sometimes served at BH. I liked the amusing retention of bluberry in one of the two quenelles of sorbet, although I preferred the Concord Grape sorbet. The financier was an appealing, buttery base for the convincing notes of grape. The perfect end to our meal was the bringing forth, after the serving of mignardises, of Concord grapes au naturel. Here, there was the ability to sample the contrast between the skin of the grapes and their fleshy interior. After this meal -- after two such Concord grape meals -- I am somewhat at a loss as to how to convey my gratitute to Mike and the BH team. >> October 2002 I had an interesting (in a favorable way) meal that was good-to-very-good-minus at Blue Hill recently. I brought a sibling who was visiting from out of town and with whom I may only end up having one meal on this trip. He liked his experiences quite a bit as well. The amuses were somewhat different from normal, and did not consist of an item in a shotglass. Three delicate morcels appeared: (1) parmesan baked into a thin tartlet shape with the poignancy of a dab of goat's cheese and a bit of red pepper, (2) lightly flavored strands of crabmeat atop a small crunchy mesh of thin vermecelli-like strands (the composition of the base was somewhat unclear to me, as it could have been a vegetable base), and (3) a nice eggplant puree (containing hints of cumin) with the freshness of two peeled peashoot-colored beans, all in a small pastry-like tartlet that was a blackish color. (1) Ruby Red Shrimp in Smoked Tomato Soup I continue to like the Ruby Red shrimp at BH. They are generally cooked less than at other restaurants, just the way I prefer them. Their flesh had a texture very different (in a good way) from that of cooked-through shrimp -- more akin to that of raw amaebi at better sushi establishments. The tomato veloute was a orangish color, and its flavors were well-balanced. Mike later indicated he had utilized both stewed tomatoes and smoked tomatoes, and a dining room team member indicated that smoking was one of the ways to control the taste of late-season heirlooms that may not be as pristine as those available earlier in the season. There was a wholesomeness and creaminess to the veloute that appealed. An appealing use of thin juliennes of celeryroot, marinated and still crisp, underneath the ruby red shrimp. This was served with a fragrant Italian white that I had previously sampled at BH -- Con Class 2000. (2) Seared Toro with Green Gaspacho Literally the most delicious degustation of any grade of toro I recall having in the US (including recently, with the Concord grapes, at BH). Toro of luscious fattiness and meatiness -- literally, I would have been entirely confident it was beef (and Kobe or some other wonderful variety) of luscious fattiness. My sibling noted that, unlike the typical searing of the outside only found at many restaurants in the US, the "inside" of the toro here had some limited elements of having been cooked that sort of "melted" or rendered luscious the fat within the very noticeable marbling of the toro. I relished the four thickish slices of toro, the texture of which, again, was gloriously meaty. The saucing of the toro dish was interesting, as it was a chlorophyll-laden saucing that would normally be associated with fish, instead of the meatiness of the toro included in the dish. Underneath the toro slices were pickled sections of cucumber, and there were significant cucumber elements in the saucing. The wine, a 2001 Arneis, was nice and minerally, although it too would have normally been associated with a less meat-like fish. However, all of this worked. (3) Smoked Trout and Seared Foie Gras, with Butternut Squash Puree, Seared Chestnuts and Pomegranate Sauce This dish was a surprising combination -- surprising both in the sense of being a combination that included diverse ingredients and in the sense of being a relatively complex dish that I appreciated. Normally, I prefer a more streamlined composition style to a dish. The smoked trout was delicious -- delicate and nicely textured, and also with a nice integrating theme of smokiness from the earlier amuse of eggplant puree (which had a certain smoky taste) to the smoked tomatoes in the veloute. I liked the meat-based stock utilized in the saucing, against the smokiness of the trout. I would say that the rest of the dish was geared towards matching the foie gras, which was nicely prepared. The butternut squash puree was golden and delicious; the chestnuts good; and the individual "grain/large seeds" from the inside of pomegrantes slightly crunch (like sweet corn) and slightly sweet. A nice fruit taste to augment the foie. This was servgd with a 1970 or 1977 Madeira that was older than my sibling. (4) Four Story Hills, Milk-Fed Capon with Mushrooms, Brussel Sprouts, Turnip and Chicken Jus The first time I have tried capon in the US -- smooth, flavored. I explained the principles behind the effect intended for capons to my sibling. Not only were breast sections presented skinless, but there was some portion of the capon that had nice crispy skin attached. The small white turnip sections were beautifully crisp and had an air of impertinence (in the sense of freshness) to them. The brussel sprouts were again mini, and I liked them (despite generally not liking that vegetable). The mushrooms, chanterelles and black trumpets, were appealingly gelatinous (this is unusual for these mushrooms, but attractive). We enjoyed this dish with Zweigelt 2000 from Austria. (5) Red Wine Soup with Apple Terrine and Fromage Blanc Sorbet An attractive pre-dessert, with a nicely controlled fromage blanc taste and a moist, layered apple selection in a cube-shaped terrine. (6) Rice Pudding with Candied Almonds and *Concord Grape* Sorbet Served in a martini glass. Vanilla-flavored rice pudding with nicely candied almonds. And Concord grape sensations to evoke the history of my last two splendid meals at Blue Hill. >> August 2002 I had another very good meal at Blue Hill recently. I invited certain family members from out of town there, and they appreciated the cuisine as well. Dan was cooking without Mike in the kitchen, and did a very good job -- just as Mike had without Dan when XXX and I had visited. -- I liked the amuse of a shotglass of cucumber soup, although I would agree with XXX that I preferred the shotglass of corn soup with the peanut oil taste "sandwich". Note the cucumber actually worked better with the sequence of this particular meal. The refreshing tastes of cucumber were there, but also present was the unexpected hint of slight sweet-sour sensations within the soup itself. Included was slight acidity, perhaps from a process not dissimilar to pickling (?) or marination in vinegar. This hinted-at taste reminded me of pickled vegetables that might be served prior to a Shanghainese meal (not that there were connotations of Asian food). Above the soup was a small amount of frozen yoghurt sorbet, which was helpful to the amuse. I also liked the ensuing papdom with marinated octupus and a bit of pureed avocado. The above were taken with champagne. -- "Tomatoes!". Can you believe that I received the dish I really wanted without specifically asking for it? It was as previously described, with a nuanced and balanced broth, except that this time around (1) the heirloom tomatoes included were a bit sweeter intrinsically, lending the dish a different (and equally appealing) balance between acidity and sweetness, (2) more basil appeared to have been utilized, relative to mint, and (3) there was one or two segments of citrus fruit included in with the tomatoes, instead of merely in the liquid. I found such differences from the prior Tomatoes! dish fascinating, with the progression rendering each more appealing. This was paired with a white wine utilizing the Tiramasso (?) grape, from a small producer that the dining room team member assisting me on the night in question (a wonderfully professional and helpful woman team member, like other team members I have encountered at the restaurant) discussed appropriately. The Tomatoes! dish also reminded me of the responsiveness of Blue Hill to available produce. It might have been the only dish that I have sampled more than once, on four visits there to date. -- "Maine Crabmeat Lasagne, Mussel and Grain Mustard Sauce". I really liked this dish as well, which appears to be among the better known dishes associated with the restaurant over time (?). Two appropriate pieces of lasagne revealed a middle area of "just right" crabmeat. The warm-plus temperature was just right as well, and the saucing excellent. Good mussel tastes as well. The green-colored sauce contained not only very gentle grain mustard, but also the tastes of possibly parsley (?), spinach or a similar vegetable (?) and very limited amounds of black pepper. The crabmeat lasagne was paired with a Chablis. -- Skate in a ginger-based broth. One of my favorite fish varieties (together with turbot and certain bass), when done right. And here it was -- tender too. The broth was a nice accompaniment to the skate, and appeared to contain ginger. However, its composition was difficult to discern. The one area of possible improvement in the entire meal was that there appeared to have been too heavy a hand with the white pepper (or similar seasoning) in the skate. Nonetheless, a dish I liked. An interesting (in a good way) pairing with a Rose that was not sweet like many are. -- Chicken in a mushroom-based broth. Ahh -- I couldn't think of an entree I would have appreciated more at this particular point in this meal. As members may know, I have a special interest in sampling chicken dishes. Bresse chicken from France has certain qualities that many chicken specimens in the US lacked. However, the chicken flesh in this dish was smooth, tender, flavorful (of chicken tastes, to be clear) and cooked just right. It pleased me so. What was wonderful is that there was (nicely) no skin on the flesh visible initially to the diner. Only when one looked beneath the top served sections did one find a single, slightly larger piece of chicken with the skin on. The skin was not crisp (appropriately); it was nice. I guess the chicken might have been poached, or otherwise cooked gently and/or at low temperature like certain other dishes at BH. Wonderful utilization of a sufficiently deeply flavored mushroom and soy-based broth that appropriately thin and of a brownish color. Nice elucidation of various included veggies, including zucchini (crisp in this dish, and in little chunks), small turnips (almost whole) and haricots vert. A subjectively stunning dish (and objectively, at least very good). Paired with a Cote Rotie. -- Peches de Vigne. Just when I thought everything about the meal had been so much to my liking, I received a further fascinating surprise. I have been thinking about peche de vigne, after having read a little blurb about them recently: Imagine my pleasure when a dining room team member brought forth a predessert with dark pinkish/burgundy peach flesh, in a similarly-colored liquid. Fragrant, beautiful rendition. And my first sampling of peche de vigne. -- Strawberries and lemon dessert. This was nice too, but I was still swooning from the peches de vigne. I switched with another diner, away from the Warm Chocolate Bread Pudding, due to my subjective quirk. Miscellaneous We were seated next to the large flower/plant arrangement. As on other visitsl, it was appealing, consisting of muted pinkish-toned leaves. As the tiny leaves were gently shed from time to time, they fell whimsically onto the ground and seating area close to me. The small flower arrangement on my table, including a dark pink-burgundy-colored orchid whose folds were nicely creased, was appealing as well. >> July 2002 -- Amuses of (1) anchovies and beet on a toast point, and (2) a shotglass of corn veloute with roasted African peanut oil -- Tomatoes: raw heirloom tomatoes marinated in tomato water, orange juice, with garlic oil and sherry vinegar as well as oven dried plum tomatoes, watermelon-tomato vinaigrette, pickled green tomatoes, upland cress and [tomato]-mint sorbet; with a white Rioja -- Seared foie gras with cocoa nibs, spinach and pistachio oil; with a 1977 Madeira -- Hamachi (yellowtail) of an unusual variety with a warm ginger-cucumber broth; with an Italian white -- Berkshire pork, including a belly portion, with tomatoes and aubergine -- XXX: Strawberries and lemon sponge cake me: Moist blueberry gateau with vanilla ice cream and a berry sorbet Even though the recent meal was only my third at Blue Hill, I am happy to report my belief that I have identified a NY restaurant well-matched to my subjective preferences. Even though Blue Hill may not be up to par with my few preferred restaurants in France, it appears to be capable of delivering cuisine appropriate to me. Both the kitchen and dining room teams are communicative and capable. The amuses were appealing. A curled sliver of anchovies, with a silver glean to the small section of included skin, nestled itself above diced beetroot. The signature color of beetroot had seeped into the toast point. The acidity and sweetness of the beetroot took form. I vaguely recollect an hors d'oeuvre presented by Chef Dan Barber in a magazine that paired cured or smoked (?) salmon with beetroot. There was a full-page spread in the NY-based (?) magazine that highlighted the purple and burgundy tones of the beetroot. The corn veloute amuse was interesting (in a positive way). When one took in the liquid, the first impression was of the peanut oil. Then, the smooth texture and clarity of corn tastes in the thin veloute. Interestingly, afterwards there emerged the peanut oil again. jordyn and I thought the temporal "sandwiching" effects in the mouth with respect to the peanut tastes to be interesting. I had heightened expectations with respect to the tomato dish -- and they were nonetheless met. The tomatoes were varied, with respect to: size; slicing vs. halves versus whole; method of preparation (e.g., raw vs. roasted); "crisper" or more supple from cooking; the amount of fleshy material along the walls of the fruit Mon Apr 21 22:05:18 -0700 2003 1071165 0 cabrales 3 1071183 Cabrales -- I'm speechless. I'm visiting NY in a few weeks (post below) and considering Blue Hill for our Sunday night destination. Couple questions, if I may: -- Do Dan and Mike work set schedules? Do you know who's in the kitchen before you walk through the door? -- Based on your incredible descriptions, I take it that the tasting menu is the *only* way to go at Blue Hill. Can you go wrong by ordering off the menu itself? -- How would you assess the wine service/pairings at Blue Hill? Thanks for your help. Mon Apr 21 22:20:14 -0700 2003 1071179 0 HungryHoward 4 1071186 -- Dan and Mike's schedules are not entirely predictable, so I generally do not know who is in the kitchen when I arrive. I get a sense that Dan tends to work Saturday nights more, with Mike sometimes being likely to work Sunday nights. I'm not too confident in this set of observations. -- The chefs' choice menu would be a good way to go, although the on-menu tasting menu that evening would offer greater certainty on your part as to what you would receive. I suppose, if you saw a dish on the a la carte menu that you wanted to have included in a chefs' choice menu, that would be appropriate to consider requesting. -- The wine pairings for the usual number of dishes on the on-menu tasting are generally $35/person. I am not particularly knowledgeable about wine, but I liked the offerings and the wine service at BH. The wines served have included those from different regions of production. I have listed wine pairings in this thread, and you might want to review them. If a lengthier tasting is requested, then the wine pairing charge might also be adjusted slightly. The restaurant permits BYO, at a corkage I don't recall. Mon Apr 21 22:44:53 -0700 2003 1071183 0 cabrales 5 1071189 Thanks for the great advice. I admire your passion for Dan and Mike's efforts and Blue Hill. If you have any other recommendations or insight, just pass it along. Mon Apr 21 23:33:12 -0700 2003 1071186 0 HungryHoward 6 1071190 HungryHoward -- May I ask what insight you are looking for? On Blue Hill vs. Annisa, you might have to decide for yourself in view of which restaurant you believe would be a better match for you. Here's my take on Annisa, based on a meal during 4Q 2002 there, which was slightly disappointing: We ordered the 5-course tasting menu. The restaurant is generally receptive to including dishes from the a la carte menu that a diner specifies as being particularly interesting. Apparently, the only item on the current menu that cannot be included in a tasting menu is the chicken with white truffles (query whether frozen or otherwise not fresh) and pig's feet. The meal began with a nice amuse -- a single escargot and celeryroot puree, all lodged inside a mini thin pastry cup. The snail was buttery and conveyed garlic, which was nice against the base of celeryroot tastes. (1) Beef Negimaki in Broth with Bone Marrow. This dish featured, as the reference to negimaki suggested, several thin slices of beef curled into a small roll-like stub item. The beef was raw, but became cooked from the ox tail-based broth that was poured over it at the table. Inside the little beef "roll" was, appropriately, shiso leaves and there was apparently also wasabi that was not detectable. The beef was alright, and the broth was appropriate, but I did not particularly like this dish. The bone marrow was appropriate, being represented by two or three little, almost further softened (by the liquid) masses inside the bouillon. There was a grainy, carbohydrate substance at the bottom of the broth -- I could not identify it. Overall, an average dish. (2) Sauteed Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama. This was a dish I requested (it's a better known dish of the restaurant), but it did not seem to me to be as delicious as I remembered. The foie gras piece on top of the single large, crescent-shaped dumpling was nice. The dumpling, which can be eaten either with chopsticks/Asian ceramic spoon or with fork/other utensil, did contain a flavorful mixture of chicken stock, foie gras mousse and very limited hints of jicama inside. However, I found the skin of the dumpling a bit thicker than I remembered, and that detracted from the dish slightly. Still, a nice pairing with slivers of raw spring onions on top of the dumpling and reduced balsamic vinegar below it. A good dish, although it disappointed me slightly in view of my expectations. (3) Ragout of Lobster and Steamers with Corn, Chanterelles and Tarragon. This dish was very good (by US standards), and I would recommend it to members who like lobster and who visit Annisa. The lobsters included were the flesh of very small lobsters, and there were two small halves. The flesh was flavorful and gentle, and the lobster had been poached. The deshelled steamer-type clams added a bit of elasticity, and the corn was a nice base. The dominant sensation of the dish was the saucing -- described as a tomato-based oil (although the tomato tastes were not evident). The saucing was a thin, non-greasy oil/jus that was very reminiscent of the sea -- fishy in a wonderful way. The saucing had tiny specks of coraille inside that were helpful. (4) Grilled Lamb Tenderloins with Golden Raisins and Onion Pancake. This dish was average-to-average-minus because the aroma of a pureed spinach cake that had been flavored with cardamom, tumeric, cumin, etc. was very dominant. It invaded the lamb, which was appropriately prepared and was accompanied by a nice thin lamb jus. Also, this dish suffered from the unattractive nature of the onion pancake, which I imagine is a take on the scallion pancakes in Shanghainese cuisine, just like the foie gras dumpling is a take on Shanghainese soup dumplings. (5) 1/2 Terrine of Sweetbreads, Lobster and Chicken Liver with Tokaj Gelee. This was not part of the 5-course (4 savory courses) tasting menu, but separately ordered by us at the end. The lobster in the terrine-like presentation was wonderfully flavorful, and nicely mixed with the "smooshiness" and intensity of manipulated chicken liver. The sweetbreads were also in the terrine, but took a backseat role in this dish. Nice combination of tastes, particularly when combined with the sweetness of the small cubes of Tokaj gelee. Apparently, this is not the Hungarian or Austrian dessert wine, but one from Australia. One weakess in the dish was the inclusion of an unusual variation of watercress, whose bitterness and saltiness were not appropriate to the dish. However, the watercress was easily excluded from my sampling. (6) Blueberry and Lemon Terrine with Lemon Verbena. A nice dessert. Inside a white oval container with a lid were, from the top of the composition, (a) lemon verbena gelee, (b) fresh, sweet blueberries, and (c) lemon curd that was not tart, but mutedly sweet. A nice combination. Next to the container was a row of very small madelaines containing poppyseed, and with some icing sugar on top of them and some type of somewhat tart lemon sauce underneath. The flour used for the madelaines did not produce appealing madelaines. My dining companion had a chocolate dessert that included banana mousse -- a very interesting whipped cream like texture for the mousse. Mignardises were (1) a tiny popsicle of blackberry (or a similar berry), (2) candied ginger (warm) -- a julienne, and (3) frozen mint chocolate item. The interesting aspect was the sandwiching of a warm item by two rather cold items within the mignardises. We drank Chateau Faugeres, St Emilion 1999 ($50-60). The total bill, with tip, was around $270. We visited the extremely small kitchen, in which all the cuisiniers that night were women (the plongeur was a man). The sous-chef to Anita Lo is a woman. Unfortunately, Ms Lo was not in attendance. Mon Apr 21 23:54:59 -0700 2003 1071189 0 cabrales 7 1071203 Cabrales, I'm speechless - your descriptions are amazing! You go beyond any chowhound definition that I can think of. I must come up with a new definition for a 'pedigree hound' because your love and description of food transcends anything I've ever seen written in food reviews. Tue Apr 22 10:38:38 -0700 2003 1071190 0 Flynn 8 1071206 Flynn -- Thanks for your kind words :) I'm writing about a restaurant I adore. Tue Apr 22 10:50:04 -0700 2003 1071203 0 cabrales 9 1071230 The people at Blue Hill should use you in the PR efforts. Your writting is only matched by your passion. Reviews like yours are invaluable. Tue Apr 22 15:27:36 -0700 2003 1071206 0 swingline 7 1071213 Cabrales -- Thanks for the background on your experience at Annisa. It's official: I now hold an 8 p.m., Sunday reservation at Blue Hill, and am really looking forward to it. As far as other insight, I was just curious if there's a specific area/table in the restaurant that you prefer or, for that matter, a great serving team that is always top-notch. Of course, that's not to say that you've had bad service, based on your write-ups. Thanks again. Tue Apr 22 12:35:46 -0700 2003 1071190 0 HungryHoward 4 1071187 HungryHoward -- I forgot to mention that the chef's choice is requested by "asking the chef to cook for us". Below is an excerpt from an article in the October 2002 edition of Elle (US). It describes the increasing popularity of tasting menus (what has the author, Liza Schoenfein, been doing for a while, to now "discover" this trend?). The article contains a wonderful looking "Spanish-influenced salmon taster" dish from Blue Hill. "In October, a diner [choosing the BH tasting menu] might start with a dish of marinated octupus in a carrot-juice cocktail and move on to Florida red snapper with porcini mushrooms, followed by Vermont loin of veal with braised red cabbage, baby turnips and beets. The first of two desserts might be 'last chance' berry soup with a fromage blanc sorbet, the second a warm chocolate bread pudding. 'It's great to be able to present your cuisine in a structured way, to give the guest a range of flavors,' says owner and co-chef Dan Barber . . . Restaurants that offer tasting menus may also recommend course-by-course wine pairings. Clealy, this is more than a meal; it's a dining experience -- which, according to Barber, is just what sophisticated restaurant-goers are looking for. **'The staff pays particular attention to people who order the tasting menu, because there's a heightened awareness that this is a diner who's taking their visit here seriously,' he says."** Dan has previously stated: "As for tasting menus [relative to a la carte], ... [t]he kitchen, the front of house, everyone save the dishwasher because of the extra work, respects the table that orders the tasting menu. It changes daily. It's a challenge to produce. It makes life here invigorating. And I think it represents the spirit of what we do more than anything else." Note Dan was referring in this context to the on-menu tasting menu presumably. The same should apply to the chefs' choice version. Mon Apr 21 22:53:33 -0700 2003 1071183 0 cabrales 1 1071166 Hi Cabrales, Is this something we can get any ole night? What's the price for these wonderful dishes? I feel like I'm really missing something after I read your ravishing descriptions. Mon Apr 21 19:25:16 -0700 2003 1071164 0 Flynn 2 1071181 Flynn -- On meals I take in, :). The Blue Hill chef(s) in attendance can be asked to prepare a surprise menu for any diner on any evening. The usual charge is $65, the same as for that evening's on-menu tasting menu. If a diner were to request more dishes than the number in the on-menu tasting menu, the price for the chef's choice menu might be adjusted slightly. Mon Apr 21 22:13:15 -0700 2003 1071166 0 cabrales 3 1071184 That's quite tempting. Do you arrange for the surprise menu in advance or once your seated? Also, do they serve different surprise meals for each (if two) diner? Thanks! Mon Apr 21 22:23:06 -0700 2003 1071181 0 HungryHoward 4 1071185 The chefs' choice/surprise menu can be requested after you seat (i.e., it need not be requested in advance). Note that the number of dishes in my meals tends to exceed the number on the on-menu tasting menu. Mon Apr 21 22:26:38 -0700 2003 1071184 0 cabrales 2 1071182 Flynn -- On meals I take in, :). The Blue Hill chef(s) in attendance can be asked to prepare a surprise menu for any diner on any evening. The usual charge is $65, the same as for that evening's on-menu tasting menu. If a diner were to request more dishes than the number in the on-menu tasting menu, the price for the chef's choice menu might be adjusted slightly. Mon Apr 21 22:13:20 -0700 2003 1071166 0 cabrales