- Allan Evans
Had to try it. Assembly-line set-up for making a labor-intensive dish requiring supervision and patience. The ingredients are all out front in plastic conatiners, like a tacqueria, all looking cold, drab, stripped of meaning, flavorless. Glug glug glug went heavy cream into a tiny pot into which a clump of cold boiled rice was dropped, plus ingredients (toppings of a sort) with some broth. Heated rapidly, cheese shook in, voila - risotto. Had vialone nano with asparagus. As no onions were sauteed and mixed with the rice before broth could be added, some chives found their way in, recalling the onion's absence. The chef-head man was there, eyeing everyone and carefully tasted the boiling broth with a soup spoon, deftly placing its lid back as it boiled on and on. The difference between him and a customer: he was able to taste the broth, I couldn't detect it in the 'result'.
My thoroughbred Italian wife was brought there today for lunch. Her comments were not as polite as the above.