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interesting dish at sweet & tart

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  • andrew reibman Feb 5, 2001 08:06 AM
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on our at least once a weeknight chinatown grazing, we unfortunately found both new green bo and shanghai cuisine closed last week - I guess they were taking a little post-new-years vacation.

we stumbled on down to sweet & tart.
Sweet and tart was full of disoriented gweilo. Evidently it had been featured on Martha Stewart last week. Talk about the kiss of death. Everyone was looking for "medicinal soups" for whatever ailed them.

We had a lovely dish - the black chicken and rice in yunnan pot. A heap of black chicken, ginger, interesting fungus type stuff - an odd mushroom I didn't recognize are heaped on top of rice in a bundt pan shaped clay pot. I would guess the whole thing is then steamed. And then it is served with a thick sweet soy sauce based sauce... not hoisin... but thicker than regular soy, and quite sweet...

I've seen black chicken before in the chinese butcher - what makes it black? maybe its really a guinea hen?

This stuff is really delicious, and the rice is fantastic... comes out all sticky like sweet rice, even though its regular rice... my only complaint is that black chickens are small, and thus the dish is quite bony...

We also had one our favorite soups - the yam thread and assorted dumplings. Clear yam noodles tied in bite sized bundles, two types of dumplings - the delicious sweet and tart long shrimp and chive, and a fat round meet dumpling... And sweet and tart, as always has good stock - must use chicken and four legged creatures together in stock making...

We had a highly forgettable plate of "crispy fried cuttlefish". This was the perhaps worst thing I have ever eaten at sweet and tart. It was battered and fried like the bad sweet and sour of our youth - but not too thick, thank god, and not too too greasy. Granted, it was hot, and fresh, and fried right - so it was not inedible... But if I am going to waste my calories on a fried dish, I want it to be heavenly... This will not be a future order.

Dessert was a lovely cold tong shui - coconut milk, yam and sago... just the perfect finish... Light, not too too sweet... A perfect dessert after a medium sized meal...

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