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Los dos Molinos, Nobu, il Covo del Est, Zum Schneider (not)/long

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  • Martha Gehan Nov 27, 2000 05:08 PM
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You might think that with last week containing Thanksgiving, it would be hard to squeeze in all the rest, but somehow..anyway, herewith some impressions.

Il dos Molinos--had never been here before, dragged by a friend who remembered the Arizona branch fondly. Very tasty food, more New Mexican style than Tex-Mex. The portions are enormous--we ordered carnitas--good and nicely spiced if a little overdone (i.e. hard & chewy) for my taste, chicken enchiladas with green sauce--beware, comes topped with a fried egg unless you ask to have it omitted--delicious chicken, nicely cooked with a complex if hot salsa verde-I loved it, one of my friends thought it was too spicy, green corn tamale--nice taste but texture a little stodgy--very good service by an extremely good-looking staff--I thought we were going to have to peel one of our party away from the bartender. Decor odd--lights over the bar looked like bug zappers and the ceiling was plastered with cowboy hats which I found irksome--too busy. My friend said she thought the atmosphere was like a restaurant in a mall--sort of theme-y. But fun, and heads and shoulders above the usual cheese-drenched glop you get in places of this ilk.

Zum Schneider is a place on Avenue C and 6th or 7th, sort of rathskellar-y looking in an airy way-- brick walls and arches, plain wooden tables and chairs, lots of windows and doors. We never actually ate there because one member of the party decided the menu was too limited. The place is mostly about beer and offers three dishes to accompany it--sausage platter, cold cut platter and "traditional Bavarian bread soup". Anyone tried it?

We headed over to il Covo del Est on A and 13th. I had posted about this place before, and after a several-month hiatus I think it's just as good. The atmosphere is atypical for an East Village restaurant--large tables with dark red cloths, big room and extremely nice and caring staff and management. Refreshing to not have to wade through attitude to eat cheek-by-jowl at rickety tables at not-so-low prices. We had shrimp croquettes in asparagus sauce--delicate and fried so they were light as air and an outstanding flan of spinach in gorgonzola sauce--again, light and delcious with a very subtle use of this powerful -tasting cheese. My papardelle with wild boar was delicious--dark, gamy and rich. Tagliatelle with rock shrimp and asparagus was light, fresh and delicate. A chicken dish with prosciutto and peppers I didn't feel hung together so well as the pasta but my friend loved it. After being plied with complimentary Vin Santo and very good biscotti we staggered happily home.

Nobu--it was very late and we didn't order much, but oh, boy. This place has my heart, if only for the black cod in miso. Fabulous sushi, including toro that was like velvet and intense uni. Delicious salad, and beautiful shrimp that tasted as if they had just stopped swimming. You definitely have to be in the mood for this sort of food, but when you are--run don't walk to Nobu.

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