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Aug 21, 2000 01:01 PM

Esca Sublime

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Had dinner at Esca on Saturday night and it was stunning. It's a simple looking place, with simply prepared food, but the quality of ingredients and attention to detail were outstanding.

For free: The bread, from Royal Crown, I'd guess, was top notch and served sans butter or oil, like in Italy. A big bowl of black olives garnished with lemon peel.

Beverage front: Lovely wine list with reasonable prices and four or so wines you could order by the "quartino," about 2 glasses, nice if you're drinking alone. My companion's iced tea came with a small carafe of simple syrup, the better to dissolve.

My pasta, a spaghetti alla chitarra with crab meat and sea urchin, was truly sublime. Sea urchin, "ricci" is seen on menus in Italy, but rarely on Italian restaurant menus in New York. One of the best pastas I've ever had in New York.

For a secondo, I had a whole pompano roasted with caper berries and olives. Again, wonderful. There's a lot of whole fish going on at Esca, and sometimes it seems like half the floor staff is engaged in filleting. (One of the most popular entrees seemed to be a whole branzino roasted in a salt crust. This for two people. Esca has a special wooden tool they use for knocking the cooked salt off the fish.)

My companion started with a green salad (I've no idea why) and then had shrimp ravioli in nettle butter and topped with shredded sorrel. Wonderfully conceived and executed.

Dessert: we split a nectarine berry tart which was good but not great. But for coffee I ordered a Neapolitan moka which was a delightful touch: more satisfying than an American coffee, but a little longer-lived than an espresso.

The bill, with tip and tax, came to about $140. Not cheap, but to my mind well worth it. Hey, it's cheaper than Estiatorio Milos.

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  1. I was there Sat. night as well, and also thought it was excellent. The "crudo" appetizers, raw fish tastings similar to ceviches or even sashimi, were wonderful, and the fish main courses were perfect.

    But we did have incredibly lackluster service, particularly when it came to the basics: bread, water, wine, a check, etc. I'd still recommend the place to anyone (and I chalked it up to being late summer), but it was a flaw.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Dan
      paul antonelli

      Just do not understand why the desserts are not
      mentioned in any of the reviews. Has simple good taste
      gone out of fashion? I found them, on the three
      occasions that I was there, down-to-earth, very
      imaginative and last but not least, reminded me of the
      desserts my Italian grandmother specialized in.

      1. re: paul antonelli

        I agree. The deserts are excellent there, especially the Pistachio Tartufo. I was most disapointed with the VERY small and overpriced Crudos. Above average Sashimi covered in oil and salt do not a worthy appetizer make, maybe an amuse bouche.
        Also the main course of Blackfish was tiny and underwhelming.

        Stick to the excellent octopus pasta, Baccala appetizer, Neapolitan Moka pot of Coffee and desert and you can't go wrong.