Gael Greene reviews Ducasse
- christina z Aug 10, 2000 12:14 PM
Sorry I don't know how to create a link but
go to nymag.com to read her cover story on
the controversial restaurant.
re: Nathaniel Axel
1) we don't like French people when they're so darn snobby
2) there's already a ton of high-end, world-class food in Manhattan, much of which is as good or better than the bulk of Ducasse's dishes, for half the price
3) with this damn economy, the steady rise in restaurant prices has mediocre bistros in the Village charging $24 for roast chicken without blinking an eye (side dishes an extra $6)...and we're sick of it, willing to pay for food, but not to be exploited
And I'm no wine guy, but aren't Concha Y Toro Chilean cabs what the hipster college paupers drink for $4.99/bottle? $82, mon dieu!
I might try it regardless ($160 prix fixe isn't THAT obscene), but it'll be with tap water (LESS contaminated than 90% of bottled waters, according to numerous studies), no wine ("no thank you, we don't drink"), and no little "extras"...and, presumably, much hatred from our servers...but hey--I'm sure they think the whole charade is kinda silly too.
When I first read the review, the mention of Concha y Toro gave me pause too. Then I remembered the wine more commonly called "Don Melchor", or its full designation Concha y Toro Don Melchor Private Reserve Puente Alto Vineyard Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Current vintage is probably 1996 or 1997, and retails for $30-40. The entry level Concha y Toro Cab is about $7-9. The more interesting question is which one is Ducasse selling for that elevated price? I find it hard to believe that the markup in his restaurant would only be 2X retail for the Don Melchor - almost worth it.
I'm running off to a Southern Hemisphere Cab tasting, plus have a Chilean tasting on Saturday morning. Will be more conversant in the area shortly...
re: Nathaniel Axel
From the reviews I've been reading, the atmosphere of Ducasse bears a good resemblence of the restaurant from the movie "L.A. Story".
The restaurant name in the movie was "L'Idiot"
Some lines from the movie:
Steve Martin: "I can't have the duck?"
Patrick Stewart: "You think with a financial statement like this you can have the duck?"
Chef: "He can ze chicken."