I Trulli suggestions?
- MU Mar 14, 2000 11:25 AM
Hi, all. I'm going to I Trulli tonight. Are there any must-trys? All opinions welcome.
I didn't see your suggestion last night, but actually got the ravioli anyway. It came with a thin, resilient sheet of scamorza (sp? it's basically dry-aged mozz.) draped over the top, sort of camoflaged against the sheets of pasta. This was seriously good. if I hadn't been in public, I would have licked the plate! A chocolate chestnut mousse cake with "drunken" chestnuts (soaked in what seemed like wine, chocolate, and lemon) was also a highlight, somehow extra-sweet but not cloying, in an intense chocolate syrup with a subtle citrus undertone. In between was a little disappointing, especially at their prices. Mains, while well-executed, seemed to lack composition. My lamb chops (sorry VF) were good, the primitivo wine sauce was great, but I would have preferred to have it soaked up by something other than sauteed spinach. The accompanying portobello mushroom cap topped with paper thin slices of potato, a grilled tomato slice, and some leek strands, was a little too salty and didn't offer enough contrast with the lamb. My friend's "Cephalopod plate" consisted of perfectly grilled cuttlefish, octopus, and squid with a pile of extremely mildly flavored wheatberry pilaf on top of sauteed spring onions. The components just didn't especially compliment each other, and seemed like a pile of grilled seafood with some random sides thrown on. Fava bean puree with chicory was okay, if bland, but it improved once we got some nice olive oil to drizzle over the top.
My (wine snob) friend had had a fifteen minute conversation with the sommelier before I got there, resulting in a really great bottle from Southern Italy to go with the meal (Sorry, I'm really bad with wine names). There seemed to be a really good selection of mid-priced wines, while the fancier stuff appeared to be marked up more steeply.
We decided that, if we were to return, we would stick to ordering pasta, since the selections in that part of the menu were most intriguing, and the mains so unremarkable.
If the fava & chicory was just good and needed olive oil, it is sad, as that is usually a most lusty and robust dish from Puglia. Seems like they are using Puglian inspiration with contemporary American-style bistrot fare: spare use of flavorful additions, decorative function essential. The substance needs to be tasty through to its core. Thanks for your report.