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Mar 9, 2000 04:51 PM

meigas-spanish chef in manhattan

  • m

chef bollo is a dream come true (he did work at el bulli, a fact that should have gotten more critical attention) and the restaurant is open from lunchtime onward. i went at about 4 for tapas, and had a great sherry tasting (try the palo cortado-very chestnutty and delightful) to accompany my codfish fritters, stuffed mussels, and the best tocino del cielo (literally, bacon from heaven, a custardy meringue dessert) in the usa. i fear that business is not what it should be, and i imagine that the rent must be steep for such a grand space, so will meigas survive? ojala, as my mom would have said; let's hope so.

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  1. When I mentioned El Bulli to the waiter it drew a blank. Later we spoke to manager (owner?) about the chef's background and he mentioned several top restaurtants in San Sebastian (Arzak and Martin Berasategui) but said he did not work for Adria in El Bulli. Perhaps the influence is there, as it is in many of the forward looking chefs in Sapin, France and the U.S. Be that as it may, both Arzak and Berasategui are becoming required stations for American chefs visiting Europe. The chef is well trained.