Russian Tearoom: Hats off to William Grimes
- Allan Evans
Fantastic trashing of this shlock theme restaurant in its latest incarnation by W. Grimes of the Times! What a joy to read adjectives such as "appalling". The description of the hordes thronging to get in to eat the most dreadful stuff: a meat-based baklava that was dessert-sweet, a chunk of filet stuffed into pastry shell ennobled as salmon kulibiaka. . . wow! Hats off to William!