- chimera Jul 26, 1999 11:11 AM
There's been a pretty wide range of opinions
posted on the boards about Cones (Bleecker Street's
self-proclaimed "ice cream artisans"). I'm hoping
that the naysayers (Robert Sietsema among them)
might provide a more elaborate critique. I've only
tried three flavors (grapefruit and pear sorbets,
and dark chocolate ice cream), but thought they
were all very, very good. Anyone?
re: Frank Language
I was, at first, a Cones believer. When you're
having an early dinner with little kids (as I
so often am), the combination of John's Pizza
(right next door) and Cones' French vanilla seemed
hard to beat.
But as Robert noted, the ice cream
is kept way too warm, so that it invariably
slops over on your wrist before you're halfway
done with the cone, and the flavors tend toward
1) supersweetness; and 2) a certain piercing
hyperrealism that is inappropriate for most ice
cream. (If I wanted to experience the sensation
of cramming an entire sack of commercial dessicated
coconut into my mouth, I think I'd be hanging
out in certain corners of the meatpacking district
rather than eating a cone.)
Anyway, Bleecker St. Pastry, with its good, honest,
inexpensive Italian ice, is right across the street.
As usually, am I.
re: j gold
O.K. I don't remember how much the ice cream was but
if I thought it was too much it was. When food is
good enough price really is not an issue. The ice
cream was good but not worth what I paid. I also have
a second choice on the block, Rocco's which has an
amazing lemon ice stuffed in a hollow lemon. Yumm-o-
re: R.L. Johnson
The "lemon ice stuffed in a hollow lemon," which is
indeed really good, is an Italian import available at
just about ANY Italian pastry shop, not just the
second-rate Rocco's. You can also get orange
ice in an orange. I second the choice of Bleecker
Street pastry for real, locally made ices, though. A
small lemon ice there will set you back about a buck,
vs. $3.50 for the imported hollowed-out fruit variety.
Don't forget the wonderful apricot ice, which is the best one there--when they have it. I, too, would be a slave to the lemon ice in the lemon, coconut ice in the coconut, etc., if only for conceptual reasons. Unfortuantely, the version of this treat served in the cutrate pastry shops and coffee parlors is whipped to give you less product by volume, making it way too light and airy. The version served in the fancy restaurants at twice the price are a zillion times better, such as the one they used to serve at that South American joint on West Broadway in Soho. Erizo Latino, I think it was. I think it was the same guy now involved in Calle Ocho.