All Hail Colina?
- Al Pastor
A few weeks ago, I had an absolutely stupendous meal at Colina in the basement of ABC, with a stunning antipasto plate that seemed to have traveled directly from the greenmarket through a hardwood flame into a mist of the best olive oil; slithery beef-cheek ravioli, and what may have been the best roast kid I have ever eaten in America. The Italian-centered wine list was superfine--especially rich in small-production Piemontese producers--and almost reasonable.
Yet the critics have destroyed the place--the Times critic compared it unfavorably to '50s-era red-sauce dives.
Could my perceptions be that far off? Has anybody else had a swell--or awful--experience at Colina?
re: Jim Leff
another vote for Colina - a lovely, calm space (don't
know what Grimes was taking about) with estimable
sophisticated/rustic food - we had the 19.99 lunch,
each the antipasto plate (6 small servings, all but
one vegs, each with an individual taste,) he had
striper, I spit-roasted capon. Tasty food, properly
cooked. His bass was accompanied by a sea vegetable
that was very interesting and briny. The platter of
desserts we finished with (not on the lunch) was
particularly good; it included an almond cake (rather
like a scone) with roasted red plumb and sour
cherries, a fig tart, and a really excellent creamy
arborio rice putting with gooseberries. All of the
desserts were distinct and the fruits were all
wonderful - tart as well as sweet and full of
delicious flavor. One shy and clueless server; the
rest were great.
Im definitely looking forward to a return trip. The
place was nearly empty, so avoid the crowds around the
corner at USC and GO.