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Jul 1, 1999 05:30 PM

All Hail Colina?

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A few weeks ago, I had an absolutely stupendous meal at Colina in the basement of ABC, with a stunning antipasto plate that seemed to have traveled directly from the greenmarket through a hardwood flame into a mist of the best olive oil; slithery beef-cheek ravioli, and what may have been the best roast kid I have ever eaten in America. The Italian-centered wine list was superfine--especially rich in small-production Piemontese producers--and almost reasonable.

Yet the critics have destroyed the place--the Times critic compared it unfavorably to '50s-era red-sauce dives.

Could my perceptions be that far off? Has anybody else had a swell--or awful--experience at Colina?

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  1. I equally have a wonderful meal there. Beautiful space,
    excellent service. Also the best roast goat I have ever
    Good wine list.
    Oh well. Critics are critics

    4 Replies
    1. re: Rhubarb

      "Oh well. Critics are critics"

      Uh, Rhubarb....Al Pastor has already mentioned elsewhere on these boards that he/she is a critic.

      1. re: Jim Leff

        A critic, true. But a self-hating critic.

        1. re: Al Pastor

          "A critic, true. But a self-hating critic"

          hey, it reflects well on the loftiness of your critical
          standards that even you yourself don't meet them!

          1. re: Jim Leff

            another vote for Colina - a lovely, calm space (don't
            know what Grimes was taking about) with estimable
            sophisticated/rustic food - we had the 19.99 lunch,
            each the antipasto plate (6 small servings, all but
            one vegs, each with an individual taste,) he had
            striper, I spit-roasted capon. Tasty food, properly
            cooked. His bass was accompanied by a sea vegetable
            that was very interesting and briny. The platter of
            desserts we finished with (not on the lunch) was
            particularly good; it included an almond cake (rather
            like a scone) with roasted red plumb and sour
            cherries, a fig tart, and a really excellent creamy
            arborio rice putting with gooseberries. All of the
            desserts were distinct and the fruits were all
            wonderful - tart as well as sweet and full of
            delicious flavor. One shy and clueless server; the
            rest were great.
            Im definitely looking forward to a return trip. The
            place was nearly empty, so avoid the crowds around the
            corner at USC and GO.