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Update on Mercer Kitchen

  • j
  • JMinNYC Mar 11, 1999 10:47 AM
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Dinner last night at Mercer Kitchen. I had already
eaten there immediately after it opened and really
enjoyed the food, ambiance and service.

So, last night was yet another example of how success
can spoil a place. The hostess was very rude when -
at 6:30 - in an almost empty restaurant - we didn't
want to sit next to a service area. It's really not
way to start off a meal with some attitudinal bullshit.

The food had definitely slipped down a notch or two.
Mushy beets in the beet and goat cheese salad. Tepid
green risotto with shrimp. The desserts seems to be
holding up well. Interesting to note that the Chef de
Cuisine had already changed. It seems this was
accomplished very quietly/stealthfully.

As the meal dragged on, the room became increasingly
noisy.

And the coat check woman - fuggedabout it! I'm really
not that demanding or picky - but a nice overcoat is a
very expensive article of clothing. This person
jammed the coats into that room so tightly that she
was pulling on my coat using all her body weight as
leverage. I was afraid the collar was just going to
rip off the coat.

I really can't imagine returning to a place - nor
recommending a place - where the service staff has
soooooo much attitude and so little respect for the
clientele. I also get the impression that they're
riding on Jean Georges' name when he really has very
little day-to-day impact on the food prep.

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  1. Apparently the very good chef Richard F. has been replaced. It seems that the food standards have been lowered to match that of the service.