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Can a fancy, elegant Indian restaurant have good food?

  • d
  • Dave Feldman Dec 20, 1997 12:36 AM
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Yep. If it's Shaan.

On a night where our destination restaurant was closed for a private party (I hate when this happens), we went to Shaan, at nearby 48th (between fifth and sixth).

Next to Mavalli Palace, Shaan is easily my favorite Indian restaurant in Manhattan. Their shrimp Jeerza appetizer is superb, and is big enough to serve as an entree for the unfamished. Generally, the lamb and shrimp dishes are always dependable at Shaan, and I tried a lamb with yogurt and chilis. Excellent, althoug not quite up to the appetizer. Their onion kulcha is also superb.

This is one of the best places to have a business meal in Manhattan. In the main room, the tables are spread farther apart than just about any restaurant I can think of, and the service is unobtrusive.

Yep, you pay for the privilege. A big meal will set you back $40 with a beer or two and tip (less expensive meal, perhaps $25). But they accept Transmedia (thank you, New York Times). And at least on this trip, they seem to have lost the live music. Anyone else hate live music when eating?

DF

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  1. Dave,

    Do you plan on trying Pondicherry on West 58th St. ?
    It has an Indian and a French chef, with Ismail
    Merchant serving as consultant. Be interesting to see
    if it really works, or just another stunt.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Gary Cheong

      I'm curious about Pondicherry for three reasons:

      1. I'm always interested in new Indian restaurants.

      2. I used to live on W. 58th St. (what's the address?)

      3. I'm curious to what extent the food is like that in Merchant's cookbook.

      Do you know anything else about it?

      1. re: Dave Feldman

        Address for Pondicherry is 8 West 58th. The name of
        the French chef is Jean Luc Kieffer; I forget the
        Indian chef's name (and I can't find where I read this)

        Hope it's not over-priced and a ripoff.