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Oct 10, 2001 12:40 AM

Best salmon I've ever had

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Tonight was my last sushi meal before I take off for Europe. As usual, I went to nearby Hama-Ko. And I had the best salmon ever. (It's one of the rare times I've made such a sweeping statement and meant it in all seriousness.)

I knew the smoked salmon was going to be good when I saw it on the plate of sushi. Ted said it was a cut from the near the belly. The fat in salmon is usually visible as thin white chevrons; on these two pieces of sushi, the whiteness came in broad V stripes as thick as the alternating salmon pink-orange of the fish, with the whiteness and salmony orange blending into one another slightly where they met. Imagine salmon that melts like buttery hamachi. That's how it felt on the palate, with its intense salmony flavor, a showstopping gastronomic payload. It was enough to make good toro seem ordinary.

That's should keep the sushi cravings down till December (I'm hoping for ama-ebi then).

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