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Aug 13, 2001 02:46 AM

Wild Flour Bakery, Freestone

  • m

After Saturday's apple fair festivities, I snuck out the "back way" from Ragle Park to the Bohemian Hwy. toward the coast to visit this brick oven, organic bread bakery. No need for an address, there are but a handful of businesses in the tiny hamlet of Freestone.

Only open Thurs-Sun, this was my first time here, although I've had the breads many times courtesy of friends who make the trek out here. Only a small selection of morning pastries and loaves are offered, but they bake the breads throughout the day so that you might be lucky and get a warm loaf. Samples of the are available so that you can taste before you buy.

This time I went for the rosemary-olive bread ($4) which is a small round loaf of crusty brown bread with a pungent rosemary aroma studded with kalamata olives. Even though I'd had more than enough to eat at the fair, I couldn't help pulling off a hunk to savor in the car. This rosemary had a special perfume, not the solventy aroma of most but higher toned and finer. The olives were still juicy and added a sharp note. The bread has as an uneven crumb and a nice resiliance. This is special stuff.

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  1. after a wonderful afternoon at the cedar baths across the street at osmosis we stopped in and got a large cinnamon loaf and before we had even gotten into our hotel in bodega had eaten more than 1/2 of it! i agree, their breads are very special.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Rochelle

      An afternoon at Osmosis enzyme baths is one of the most pampering things you can do for yourself. The fragrant crumbs of cedar shavings that stick to your skin when you emerge make people look like big oatmeal cookies.

      I'm happy that the bakery is now just across the street. I'm always thirsty and a little hungry when I emerge from the spa.

      I'd had an apple bread with a little bit of bittersweet chocolate shavings from Wild Flour. But it wasn't on the menu that day. I had to satisfy my apple cravings (you'd think I would have had enough at the fair) with a piece of apple strudel from Kozlowski Farms in Forestville.

      1. re: Melanie Wong

        i can only imagine how good the apple bread must have been. i think the closest we come is aremendi (sp) on 9th and irving.

    2. Friday I swung inland from the Sonoma Coast to the Bodega Hwy so that I could make a stop at Wild Flour Bread. Thought I'd update my old post on this bakery. The open days are now Friday through Monday.

      Now the samples are behind a sneeze guard, so you have to request them. The taste of the cinnamon bun was great. The style here is heavy and dense with a thick crust afforded by the wood-burning brick oven. What I did like is that today, nothing seemed too wet to me, which has been my beef in the past. I noticed that some of the customers request the example with the darkest crust when making their purchases, so this is definitely the place to come if you like a well-browned, dense and crackly crust.

      This day I only had eyes for the Super Seedy round, $6.50. The pile of them is on the right side of this display table. Studded pepitas on the outside, this loaf was so heavy in the hand. A dark bread made with many kinds of grain and more seeds than any other multi-grain or seeded loaf I've come across, I could feel virtuous slathering it with some french beurre considering all the nutritional value it delivered.

      Wild Flour Bread
      140 Bohemian Hwy, Freestone, CA

      3 Replies
      1. re: Melanie Wong

        Just had a ginger biscotti a co-worker brought back from here. I think I need to move to Northern CA. Damn.

        1. re: Ewilensky

          I love Wild Flour, not just the offerings but also the location and the whole experience. Last time I was there I picked up one of the Fougasses which I combined with a bowl of chowder from Spud Point in Bodega Bay: terrific. I also got an almond/fig/marzipan scone. Also terrific.

          I need to get back there.

        2. re: Melanie Wong

          I love that bakery and force my hubby to stop every time we're in the area, which we were yesterday. They had quite a few (extremely large) scones, most of which I hadn't seen before - some very interesting flavors like blueberry with white chocolate drizzle, mocha, and a couple of others (my memory fails me now). However, I passed those up for my usual favorites: sticky bun bread (much better this time than last time when the dough was overly sour), fougasse (studded with roasted garlic and hunks of cheese), and the biggest chocolate-hazelnut biscotti in the world. Yum!