moving to Berkeley
- Rachelhope Jul 4, 1998 07:29 PM
I've been dreading this moment, but it's time to post
the question: where are good eats in Berkeley/Oakland?
You see, I'm leaving NYC -- my born and bred home --
for a PhD program (min. 6 years) at Berkeley. All my
hard-earned restaurant knowledge will be for nought as
I step forth, like a babe, onto untread territory!
During a weeklong house-scouting excursion last month I
stumbled into a lot of great restaurants, reassuring me
about the potential for great eating. Besides Chez
Panisse, can anyone offer any tips? I eat everything,
everything, everything, everything.
Psst, Rachel: I've forwarded your plea to a friend of
mine who lives in Berkeley - and loves it. She'll help
you out, and if she doesn't, I'll bug her again.
Berkeley, as its residents never tire of
telling you, is probably pound-for-pound
the best place to eat in America...except
really, for chowhound-type places.
Anyway, I'm sure these places will be
imparted to you within minutes of arriving
on campus, and mark me as a hopeless yup,
Panini, on Shattuck, has essential
Italian sandwiches on essential seeded
rolls from Semifreddi Bakery. (The sand-
wiches at Ultra Lucca, on Telegraph at
40th in Oakland, are not to be sneered at
either. Or the pizza at the Cheese Board.)
Picante Taqueria, on 6th, is a little twee,
but the rajas tacos are undeniable.
Cafe Fanny, on San Pablo at Cedar, is
the breakfast place of the CP empire,
with cafe au lait textured like velvet,
egg-salad sandwiches so good they'll make
you weep and millet muffins that redefine
the genre. Surprisingly inexpensive. (Acme,
next door, is the best bread bakery in the
U.S., though the Cheese Board has better
baguettes; Kermit Lynch, also next door, is my
favorite wine shop anywhere, and actually
specializes in great $8 wines from Southern
Oliveto, which you won't be able to afford,
is an astonishing Urban Rustic outpost in
Rockridge, whose chef, Paul Bertolli, was
the best chef at Chez Panisse, and who does
things like cure his own proscuitto and age
his own balsamic. The cafe downstairs is
cheaper, great for a glass of wine and a
few bites of roast rabbit.
Everett & Jones, on San Pablo at University,
does ribs so much better than anything you
may have tasted in NY that you may well fall
to your knees.
You will probably come to the conclusion
that one or another of the many bits of
Berkeley Asian exotica is exemplary, and
you will be wrong--imagine Leff's theory
of Zagatization applied to restaurants that
never had many native customers to begin
with--but Oakland's Chinatown is great,
fairly bursting with Burmese, Vietnamese
and Chiu Chow places to explore.
re: jonathan gold
"imagine Leff's theory of Zagatization applied to
restaurants that never had many native customers to
Jonathan, that's actually not a reapplication of
what I was saying...it's just the logical
extension. Formerly authentic places get Zagatized,
learn to water down the cooking and ratchet up the
prices, meet with resounding success, and scads of
cynical upstarts follow suit, attracting outsiders
with jive, inferior food right out of the gate.
Eventually the good places that never received the
mainstream seal of approval (usually because
they're more than a block from the subway, as
Sietsema points out)--and never added neon,
publicists, etc, to get that exposure--wither. Even
the local paisanos eventually shun them...they're
not jazzy enough, not modern enough.
In ten years, even Popeye will be eating in Red
Lobster (thank God we're chowhounds...we find
deliciousness regardless of what insanity the
On the Berkeley bbq front: while it's slightly
unfair to compare them since I had Everett and
Jones about 2 years and it's been almost a decade
since I hit Flynt's, I prefer the latter
(especially their sausage).
Ahhh...the old Flint's vs. Everett & Jones debate.
A taste of the good old days. (I was always an
E&J man myself--I was also partial to the
late Do City across the bay in the Western Addition
--though I would never exactly turn down the offer
of a small-end dinner at Flint's).
Bob is right: Doug's is awfully good, if not in
a neighborhood you would ordinarily find yourself
re: jonathan gold
Not true, Jonathan... It's right on the corner of San
Pablo Avenue off the San Pablo Avenue exit of I-580
West on the Oakland/Emeryville border (look for the
billowing smoke)... just three blocks from the East Bay
Bridge shopping complex which houses the Home Depot,
CompUSA, and OfficeMax. It seems like I'm always
finding myself in that neighborhood!
Also, the Cheese Board folks have opened a bakery on
Lakeshore Avenue in Oakland (on the other side of I-580
from Lake Merritt). Haven't checked it out yet, but it
supposedly serves the same great pizzas.
It's been a long time but I used to love The Blue Nile
(Ethiopian) when I was a kid. I believe its on
Telegraph but that's just a guess.
If you're looking for fast food the place to be is
upper Telegraph near the UC. Great pizza -- The Fat
Slice is the best, Mexican (I can't remember the
restaurant's name but it's really good, you'll find it
pretty quickly if you just walk down Telly from the
campus). But stay away from the little cafes clustered
right around the entrance to the campus.
OK, I didn't want to broadcast this too loudly but what
*Rivoli Restaurant on Solano Ave. in Berkeley may be
the best restaurant in America...and besides there's a
live animal show in the garden every night (raccoons,
skunks, and possums entertain nightly)Zagat says: "Chez
Panisse at half the price"
*A chowhound classic, Vik's King of Chaat (Indian
snacks) is like being in the food stalls of Bombay.
Allston between 4th and 5th.
*Vi's on Webster in downtown Oakland is simply
sensational Vietnamese (with a duck noodle soup to die
*Jimmy Bean's on Gilman and 6th has great quesadillas
*Another chowhound classic: the pizza at the Cheese
Board on Shattuck opposite Chez Panisse. The Best
Pizza! And I mean the best!
*Another vote for the rajas tacos/burritos/platos at
Picante Tacqueria. Also the chicken machamentales
(sp?) is also good.
The best pizza in Berkeley, in my opinion, is at
Zachary's on Solano Ave in the Thousand Oaks area. I
haven't been to the other one in Oakland, so I don't
know if it's as good.