relocating from San Francisco to Connecticut

[snoop kitty cat]

Old Saybrook, probably. Can anyone reassure us about the food/chow scene? We love to eat out, and are hugely spoiled after decades in this food mecca, and are also quite keen on cooking. We're dedicated to supporting local, artisan, organic (non GMO!) foods. Will we be able to continue? Nothing will seem expensive, shy of Manhattan, after San Francisco. There doesn't seem to be much happening according to the Slow Food website. Is there something they don't know?

Why, you ask? Have you heard our governor of late? California is, at best, misdirected. And while San Francisco is wonderful for grown ups, it's hard on the kids. Imagine trying to learn how to ride a bike on a street with a 20 percent incline. Or having to have someone drive you somplace to ride your bike, or skate. Sheesh. I won't even get started on the schools.

Thanks for any insight.

[Big Fat Moe]

San Francisco to Connecticut, huh? Well, all I can say is that eating good chow must have have slid W A Y D O W N your personal priority list. Kids have trouble biking on the hills? Tough! Schools suck? So what! YOU get to eat at the Slanted Door and Yuet Lee!
Well, at least you aren't moving to Fairfield County!
Here's my one dining tip: The place that you want to check out is THE PLACE in Guilford. Only open Spring thru Fall. Sit outside on stumps, bring your own beer, wine, and salad. Feast on fresh wood grilled lobster, little neck clams and roast corn on the cob. Its the real deal and will, at least for a moment, make you forget about all the great food you are missing in San Francisco.
Enjoy, Moe

[Jim Leff]

It's really important not to paint CT with a single brush stroke. There is an enormous amount of good food there. Just not in the Old Saybrook area (though I'd be a happier man if Lenny's Fish Tale were an hour closer to NY) or along the 95 corridor generally....and there are exceptions there as well.

[snoop kitty cat]

Thanks for your time and insight. We're fairly resourceful; as long as there's a decent market we're not going to be reduced to eating ... well.. I don't know what other people eat.

Bourdain nailed San Francisco dead on in Cook's Tour. We're really very special here. Just ask us, we'll tell you.

And, hell, we've spent a small fortune making yearly pilgrimages to NYC over the years. We plan on sailing across the sound fairly regularly to get a food fix. Old Saybrook was chosen because of its sailing facilities.

Thanks again.

[Dave]

Having lived here in Old Saybrook for the past 40 years I assure you there is great dining in the area:

Wine & Roses on Main St. offers an eclectic menu of daily specials all great.

Copper Beech Inn in nearby in Ivoryton is a 4 star experience

Cafe Allegro in close by Madison is superb

Du Village, up the road a few miles, in Chester is another 4 star outing.

Aleia's in Old Saybrook is a great place to spend an evening, great food.

Cafe Routier in town is a fine French Bistro

Across the River Old Lyme offers the Old Lyme Inn and the Bea and Thistle Inn both very good.

The Terra Mar Grille at the Saybrook Point Inn is another winner.

Old Saybrook Fish house rivials your fisherman's wharf for great seafood.

Obviously the previous postings were from people who do not know the area.

Fear not, the Old Saybrook area offers many fine dining spots

[snoop kitty cat]

I've printed your list. Will check back in when we return. Thanks a bunch. (We're on a preliminary house hunt.) Besides, I know my way around a kitchen. HIghly unlikely we'll starve.

muchas gracias,
Mary

[dave]

If you're willing to travel "as far" as Middletown, up Route 9 about a half hour, there is a diner, name of which I can't remember at the North end of Main Street, just before the bridge to Portland, with great food. Small, but with homemade bread and great, nondiner food. Also the Chicken Noodle soup and Matzo ball soup at Ruby's on Main Street in Middletown is "to die for".

[Miko]

Sounds like you're thinking of O'Rourke's diner, and it's well, well worth the trip, even on Sunday morning. Creative food, a tiny-print 5-page breakfast menu, and loads of funky diner atmosphere. I concur with everything on Dave's list, and want to add:

Steve's Centerbrook Cafe, in Centerbrook;

Fiddler's, in Chester -- fabulous fresh seafood and plenty of luscious extras at a price that's far below what the same (or inferior) food would cost in NY;

The Blue Oar in Haddam off 154 -- a marina restaurant, all outdoor dining, open only in summer -- you sit on a bluff above the CT River, on a porch or patio, and BYO. A wonderful summer evening spot to linger with friends -- great crab cakesm but the chalkboard menu changes nightly

Coyote Blue, somewhere up 154 toward Middletown -- incredibly good Margaritas (though they will only serve you two -- they're strong) and very solid craftsmanlike Mexican

[Michael Hoffman]

>We plan on sailing across the sound fairly regularly to get a food fix. Old Saybrook was chosen because of its sailing facilities.<

You're planning to sail across the Sound to get a food fix? Where? Eaton's Neck? Port Jeff?

[Snoop Kitty Cat]

Actually, all the way to New York City. I guess I should have mentioned the Hudson, eh? Our offer on a house in Westbrook across from Brewer's Marina was accepted!

[Dave]

Everybody's dissing Old Saybrook. Isn't Cafe Routier still there or has it slipped? Also, not too far away are the Centerbrook (Copper Beech), Ivoryton, etc. Restaurants. Aren't we being a tad bit difficult?

[snoop kitty cat]

Thanks for the encouragement. I used to live in CT, and it's only 100 x 60 miles. We're not Amish, fer chrissake, and our sensible little compact family wagon can get us around! Anyone who hasn't lived through the influx of folks from I don't even know where, driving SUVs the size of Montana and talking on their cell phones in RESTAURANTS may not understand the decline in, shall we say, "quality of life" here in the Bay area. But their real estate rapaciousness is financing our little get away, so who am I to cast judgment.

Ci vediamo!

[gordon wing]

I've lived in the Bay Area for almost 40 years but my wife is from Manchester, CT so we go back regularly. It's definitely a different food scene but we enjoy searching out the local foods. Shady Glen Dairy Restaurant in Manchester is worth a visit.....wonderful ice cream and an old fashion atmosphere that is hard to find anywhere else. Go to the original store on 840 East Middle Turnpike.
[phone] New England has lots of interesting diners and donuts seem to be big, also. Happy hunting!

[C. Fox]

The Sterns of Roadfood fame ought to be able to provide some good tips -- they live in Western CT, not too far from where you'll be, and their website lists a number of local spots. I'm sure some 'hounds will criticize their recommendations, but it's a good place to start.

Link: http://www.roadfood.com/

[Jay]

HEY!,I live only about 5 min. from Shady Glen.Pretty god grub.If your into sushimi try the Oriental Cafe on rt. 30 in Vernon there is also a good Veitnemese rest. on the same rd.

[Jim Leff]

I've eaten at Routier several times (and reported in my dining diary), and yes, it has slipped. It's ok, very over-priced, and was never, like, great to begin with. Saybrook Fish House is super-inconsistent and the menu's like a minefield, but you can get some good things sometimes.

The area sucks, and I've spent the time there to say so with confidence. Even those who love it up there would never call it a chowhound locale. Love the Fish Tale, though, and the hash at Pat's Kountry Kitchen. Hear good things about Alforno Ristorante, 1654 Boston Post rd, but haven't tried it yet.

ciao

[lnwaif]

The area certainly doesn't suck. There are some really great food possibilties in the area. Routier has some prretty solid choices and some certainly are hit and miss. Believe it or not they have incredible meatloaf. Fish Tale is great and the marina has awesome breakfasts. Watersedge does a mean brunch as well.

The ocean is pretty breathtaking as well as the nearby theaters and museums. Don't be so hasty to dismiss an area

[Jim Leff]

Hey, i'd be delighted to be proven wrong! That would mean we'd all eat better, and that IS the central goal!

But aside from repeating my praise for Fish Tale and very slightly upping my assessment of Routier, the only new info you've given is a "mean brunch" (thanks for it...I'm sure lots of hounds will be glad for the tip!).

If I'm to be proven wrong about my bleak chow assessment of this area, you'll need to provide edible evidence. Man can't live on brunch and fried seafood alone (though man can could certainly TRY...).

I agree...the ocean's lovely. But we're talking about food here.

ciao

[Jim Leff]

I'm trying to encourage those who do address look-ups (easiest via yellow.com) to post results for use of others, so I'll set a good example by noting that that brunch is at:

Water's Edge Inn & Resort 1525 Boston Post Rd  Westbrook, CT [phone]

[lnwaif]

actually you missed my mention of breakfast at the marina which is perfect for our new pioneers.

Routier fyi is moving to westport.

[Jim Leff]

" actually you missed my mention of breakfast at the marina which is perfect for our new pioneers."

Yes, I did!

More! We need more! Convince me there's good food up there! Anything....a corn muffin, a chiclet....

[lnwaif]

Oops Routier is relocating to Westbrook sorrry. Fiddler's in Chester is great for Shad during season. Al Forno's is pretty good for pizza, not awesome though.

Not quite on the chiclet front but close is the popcorn at the Griswald made fresh in an old fashion popcorn cart.

[Dave]

I'm still a Routier fan. When is it moving to Westbrook and where?

[Jim Leff]

Agreed on the Griswold's popcorn. Also, the bartenders mix drinks particularly well. And I dig the corny dixieland band and the friendly, inebriated older couples dressed in pastels and white shoes. Also great ambiance...the place is ancient. But how's the food there? I've always wondered.

[lnwaif]

Not sure when Routier is moving soon though. Food at the Griswald kind of feels like the elderly couples in pastel and white shoes. The roast beef as I remember is huge and thick. I haven't eaten there in forever usually I gnaw on popcorn and try my hands at the spoons.
By the way the Saybrook fish house is a mine field but their baked clams are tried and true.

Bill's also has some good music, mixed drinks and not bad sandwiches . Great duck watching as well.

[S]

I highly recommend Inn Du Village in Chester - country French. The Griswold Inn in Essex (the Gris) has great ambiance but the food is very average. The Old Saybrook Fish House is not as bad as some other posters make it out to be - just stick to the specials each night and you'll do fine. I have not eaten at the Gelston House in Hadlyme, since it re-opened, but you can't beat the view of the CT River and the Goodspeed Opera House. In Hartford, I recommend the Costa del Sol - Spanish, and Tapas - Mediterranean. Also, Black-Eyed Sally's and any of the "Max" restaurants (small local chain - ecclectic mix- one's steak, one's fish, one's Italian). Hot Tomatoes is not as good as it used to be. In Lyme, I've always enjoyed the Bee and Thistle - good food and romantic dining. For a density of good restaurants, however, you need to go to Providence, RI.

[suzanne]

oh, well, all I can say is do not bother...the schools arent even good...

[Barbara]

The blueberry muffins at the Courtyard (little diner tucked back in a strip mall off main drag) are FABULOUS. Just loaded with blueberries. I'd get them more often, but they are often sold out.

[david]

jim: you're right. i live in old lyme and can testify from personal knowledge that the area basically sucks from a food standpoint. there are a couple exceptions and i have posted entries about them but nobody seems to have noticed: taste of china, in clinton; and star of siam, westbrook, at site of the former little siam. taste of china is an excellent, very authentic szechuan place. i have eaten a number of times at all 3 branches of grand sichuan intl. and would say that taste of china is in the same league. best dishes are salt and pepper shrimp, chengdu dumplings, whole fish in hot bean sauce, sauteed pea shoots, and stuffed eggplant slices in spicy sauce. let the gracious woman who owns and manages know that you want the good stuff and she will take good care of you. star of siam is a very solid thai place. we have eaten there three times since it opened a couple of months ago. after an uncertain start(i posted an entry about it)the food has improved significantly. last week we had a good tom yum goong, yum nua(really spicy, just like i requested), crummy chicken wings(my wife's idea), top-notch pad thai(vinegary, not sweet) and pad ke meow, really terrific pad kra pow w/coarsely ground pork and a very tasty red curry w/roast duck.
these are the two best restaurants in the area. the food at al forno is pretty good, the bread is great, but it is now over-priced.the people who rave about lenny and joe's are nuts. the only good fish restaurant in the area is go fish in mystic.
for the fellow moving to the area, i'd also reccomend a number of excellent asian places in hartford: china pan, shanghai cuisine, clearly the best chinese restaurant in the state, located on new britain ave., past west farms mall on way to new britain; boston pho, excellent vietnamese place next to the huge asian market, a dong, on new britain ave. just past newington rd. on way from w.hartford to hartford. right next to a dong is the dim sum restaurant, which looks great but i haven't tried it; also, szechuan gardens, a brand new place in w.hartford on farmington ave. near intersection w/trout brook dr. i hope this info is helpful.

[snoop kitty cat]

That close to New York? Yikes, it can't be that grim. Anyway, we're leaving our options open (not selling the house on the hill). And will be visiting the relatives, and taking them to Zuni, the Meeting House, Oliveto, et cetera every chance we get.

Thanks!

[jay]

Hi,sorry about your culinary misfortunes,try 1200 Ocean in Narragansett RI.for great fresh seafood,the Oriental Cafe in Vernon CT.for great Sushi,The Lotus in Vernon CT. for great veitnemese,Reins NY Style Deli in Vernon CT.(it's famouse).Try Spagetti Freddies in Springfield Ma. for outstanding Italian with a wonderfull old world atmosphere,Tapas in downtown Hartford for great Mediteranien food.Also in Downtown,along with many others,try Hot Tomatoes.

[Jim Leff]

Old Saybrook is not a place for chowhounds. There are a couple of good places within range, a handful of survivable ones, but you'll quickly go nuts. Either get closer to New Haven (a pretty good chow city, especially if you like brick oven pizza), or over closer to Rhode Island, where you get the Portuguese and Italian stuff. But the no-man's land in between is not about food.

For some make-do tips, put "old saybrook" into our search engine (on the home page). You'll see a couple of long entries from my old dinner diaries. I used to stay a lot up there. Also, you'll find some postings on this board and possibly the tristate one as well.

ciao

[wayno]

I feel your pain. This reply may be too late even to be noticed by you, but I didn't start surfing the New England board until planning a biz trip to R.I. this week. Last April, I moved from SF to southern Illinois. Sure, it's only 30 minutes into St. Louis, but still... Anyway, a few weeks ago, I made my first return visit to SF since leaving 10 months ago, and certainly can appreciate your urge to hit as many of your faves before leaving. During my 4 days back in the City last week [and being unable to get into Slanted Door or Delfina because the Fancy Food Show was in town and restaurants were unusually busy], I ate at, among others, Tu Lan, Le Bistrot, Pesce, Le Soleil [vietnamese on Clement], Cobalt Tavern [preceded by drinks at Rose Pistola and Tony Nick's] and Aqua [followed by drinks at Asia de Cuba], and, finally, breakfast at Corte Madera Cafe [worth the drive from the city] and a crab fest at St. Pat's church in Larkspur [1600 lbs of fresh dungeness]. Ohhh, I'm starting to get homesick. Good Luck with your move.