Neath's in Providence, RI
- Alan Divack
My wife and I found ourselves in Providence late last
Wed. evening, and scared off by the write up of Al
Forno in the Times travel section a few weeks back, we
decided to try Neath's, a restaurant run by a Cambodian
We had a thouroughly delightful meal. She had soft
shell crabs on a bed of salad. The crabs were in a
very light batter with ground peanuts and were nicely
fried -- almost ethereally crisp. I had a duck, which
was a piece of leg and thigh confit, grilled rare
breast, served with spinach sauteed with garlic, a
sweet potato pudding, and a sauce that tasted of five
spice powder and ginger. The overall effect was
somewhere between smothered pork chops with gravy,
greens and yams, and a chinese red-cooked duck or pork
shoulder. It was unctious and excellent.
The desserts were over the top. Fried wontons stuffed
with chocolate ganache and served with ginger ice
cream, and an extraordinary passion fruit creme brulee.
The place reminded me a bit of Mirezi, which closed a
year or so ago, only more spatious. We got there late,
were the last people to leave, and never felt rushed.