<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<topic>
  <id>14655</id>
  <title>Bistro Burgers (Part 1): Beaches, Castagna, Caprial's, Red Star, Wildwood</title>
  <published_at>Fri Aug 05 20:37:03 -0700 2005</published_at>
  <post_count>19</post_count>
  <board>
    <id>4</id>
    <name>Pacific Northwest</name>
  </board>
  <posts>
    <post>
      <post>
        <level>0</level>
        <id>35356</id>
        <content>Decided to put my prejudices aside and start surveying bistro burgers.  Partly it's with the demise of Foothill Broiler that I have to look elsewhere for that fix.  Most other fast food style burgers just don't quite cut it. This is the first of several reports. As always, photos, addresses, prices, etc, at the link below.
 
One of my prejudices, though, is being supported.  I've always said that the average fast food joint is better at making fries than the average gourmet burger source.  So far that's true.
 
Beaches: I wanted a baseline burger (and another spot in Vancouver) to compare to.  This is one of my controls.  I'd rather spend my money sitting outside by the Columbia than inside Red Robin being convinced that their ultimate chocolate brownie rocky road ice cream smores sandwich or whatever is a must for dessert.  The burger itself was decent, as was the bacon and cheese (which are really cheap additions).  But the lettuce, tomato, onion, and bun sucked.  They serve jo-jos instead of fries, but they did a good job, as expected, since they're closer to a chain than a gourmet restaurant.
 
Cafe Castagna: Since this place is the most mentioned "best burger" nominee, I wanted to make sure it got in the first report.  While the burger is good, I think the thing that separates Cafe Castagna from the rest is the fries.  No one else so far has surpassed the various national chains except Castagna.  Really great, crispy fries.  The burger is a little plain and boring and not especially flavorful with nothing that really separates it from the other top places.  It's also smallish for the price.  But those fries....
 
Caprial's: I'm glad "Cap" comes immediately after "Caf" because as good as the fries from Cafe Castagna are, the fries from Caprial's Bistro are that bad.  All different sizes, all greasy and limp.  Yuck.  I might feed them to my dog, but they'd probably just give him gas.  The burger itself is pretty good.  Like Castagna and Wildwood in this report they make their own bun, adding some herbs and salt to it.  They also, like Castagna, make their own pickles.  They also make their own relish and mayo (aioli).  It's several dollars cheaper than the burgers from Castagna and Wildwood, too.  If they could just make a decent fry.  Or hell, offer me a salad, I guess.
 
Red Star: This was the other control.  I think of this as an even more upscale Beaches, but really their burger was probably worse.  They tried to make it better by adding things like their own pickled vegetables, but the quality of everything was actually poor and misconceived.  The french fries were good, though.  Not sure if I really like that Red Robin-like seasoning salt.  They should have put it on the burger.  Terrible bun.
 
Wildwood: One of my favorite restaurants and the burger didn't disappoint.  The best burger in this survey and one of the best I've eaten so far.  Great bun.  Great additions like parsley pesto.  And the burger was lean but really juicy.  It literally dripped down my elbow. Truly grilled, too, with the most char and smoke flavor of any yet, I think.  Fries were adequate, but not crispy enough for me.  I liked skins on.  It added an earthy quality.
 

 

Love to hear other recs, especially for places I might not think of like those that aren't in Portland proper.

Link: http://www.extramsg.com/modules.php?name=News&amp;file=article&amp;sid=498

Image: http://www.extramsg.com/albums/album377/wildwood_burger2.sized.jpg</content>
        <published_at>Fri Aug 05 20:37:03 -0700 2005</published_at>
        <parent_id></parent_id>
        <user>
          <id>0</id>
          <name>extramsg</name>
        </user>
      </post>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>35369</id>
      <content>Thanks for the report, Nick!  I just had the Wildwood burger and I thought it was fabulous.  It is a bit expensive when you add bacon and cheese but it is very good.  I think the fries have improved, too.
 
Kristi</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 12:43:02 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35356</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Kristi</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>35373</id>
      <content>We had the fries with the mustart aoli (came with mussels appetizer last night) at Paley's. They make crispy kick-ass fries and serve them piping hot in a mint julep cup (which I think keeps them warm).</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 18:16:28 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35369</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Calabrese</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>35374</id>
      <content>But they have no burger.</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 18:17:58 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35373</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>35378</id>
      <content>Wrongo Batman...they do have a $10 burger on their bar menu...(cheese, etc. is extra...not sure if it comes with the fries - which really are in the same league with rockin' fries at Cafe Castagna's )</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 18:48:19 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35374</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jill-O</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>35381</id>
      <content>Weird.  I called them and asked them about that when I started this survey.  But I got told no and so I scratched them off the list.  They show no evidence of it on their website either.</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 22:39:22 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35378</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>35382</id>
      <content>I didn't see a burger on their menu when I ate there in June and was disappointed, as the fries were wonderful (my GF probably likes fries more than any other food on earth and loved them as well), but I also read somewhere else that they have a burger on the bar menu.  I might have to just drop in one night and see if they do to go with those wonderful fries and mustard.
 
Honestly, I'd love to be able to buy a jar of that mustard for home to put on a burger or sandwich, can Paley do that?</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 22:51:04 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35381</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Chris Heinonen</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>7</level>
      <id>35383</id>
      <content>I just called them to figure it all out.  I think I know why I failed last time.  I asked if they had a separate bar menu and they said no.  I just called and they said that they didn't really, but that in the bar you can order a bistro burger.  That's the only item that's different at all.  I don't know why they just don't put it on the normal menu.  Too many cheap entrees going out?</content>
      <published_at>Sun Aug 07 00:36:44 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35382</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>8</level>
      <id>35384</id>
      <content>Well, I will now have a schedule a trip to Paley's one night to find out how that burger is.  I don't suppose they mentioned cost or toppings?</content>
      <published_at>Sun Aug 07 01:19:00 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35383</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Chris Heinonen</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>9</level>
      <id>35385</id>
      <content>Didn't ask.  Cheese and bacon as extras.  I imagine I'll get there some time soon as well.</content>
      <published_at>Sun Aug 07 02:21:04 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35384</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>10</level>
      <id>35416</id>
      <content>skyline is still the best for burgers and fries..nothing fancy, but just plaun good.............</content>
      <published_at>Mon Aug 08 10:45:23 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35385</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>carol</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>35375</id>
      <content>Funny, Nick, the burger in your Wildwood picture looks much larger than the one I had a couple of months ago.  I don't know if you remember, but one of my complaints was that the burger was so small that there was about an inch all around the bun with no burger there.  
 
While the Wildwood burger was very good, I still like the Castagna burger better, but it may be because of the way I order mine.  I just like bacon, cheese, aioli and light onion on mine, and prefer a more meaty, beefy taste than a lot of adornment with pesto, greens, tomatoes, and other flavors.
 
And the fries are fantastic!  
 
Marshall</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 18:26:02 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35356</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Marshall Manning</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>35377</id>
      <content>The fries are indeed fantastic.  (btw, someone on PortlandFood just said they went to Dundee Bistro and the burger comes with truffled fries.  Might have to give that a try.)
 
However, the part of the reason I like Wildwood's so much is that I think the beef flavor stood out even with all those condiments.  (eg, I don't know if I mentioned it, but the Beaches burger had *tons* of mayo.  Just tons and in some bites that all you could taste, commercial mayo.)  The pesto is just a light extra, less assertive than many fast food burgers' ketchup (though I have a strong ketchup aversion).  And since they slightly cook the onions, they're not as assertive as they might otherwise be.
 
With the burger being truly grilled, too, the flavor really stands out.  And like I said, it was the juiciest burger by far, although Castagna's was probably in the top few of the dozen or so I've eaten recently on this trek.
 
I think they might have said that the burger was a half pound at Wildwood.  Can't remember.  That's the biggest (tied) anyone has given.  It's also one of the most expensive, though.  btw, they've recently changed beef suppliers so perhaps that's part of the reason they're giving bigger burgers now, too.  Not sure.
 
I think when you get to this level of burger, though, it's certainly getting into the realm of personal preference.  You're not talking about quality of bun, meat, cheese, bacon, proper cooking, etc, anymore.  Though the fries are still a point of contention.
 
I'm trying to spread out the reports so that I don't front load them too much.  There are still some very good burgers to come and there are still several places I'm very much looking forward to trying.  There've also been some big letdowns.  Afterall, I expected the burger at Beaches to be weak, but Lauro?</content>
      <published_at>Sat Aug 06 18:41:56 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35375</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>35407</id>
      <content>Our two favorite places for hamburger's are Besaw's and the 6th Ave Bistro in Hood River.  My partner says Besaw's has the best burger in the NW, and the 6th Ave. Bistro runs a close 2nd.  It is also a 1/2 lb. burger.  And on the menu it is listed as a "Damn Good Cheeseburger".  The fries are excellent as well.
 
For fries in town, it's hard to beat Bluehour.  And for the exotic, the sweet potato fries at Mint / 820 are incredibly crispy yet creamy in the middle.
 
Anyways, some other options to consider.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Aug 08 01:20:28 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35356</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Arthur</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>35409</id>
      <content>Thanks.  I go out past Hood River every week to see a client in The Dalles, so I'll try to check it out.  I hadn't really considered either.  I always liked Besaw's as a lunch/breakfast place when I used to work only blocks away.
 
I like Bluehour's fries.  They'll be in an upcoming report.  But I prefer the extra crispy ones at Catagna's.  Bluehour's burger and fries is way cheap for a bistro burger, though, at happy hour.  Only $6, I think.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Aug 08 01:29:41 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35407</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>35410</id>
      <content>The burger isn't great though, at Bluehour.  I can't place my finger on it, but it's kind of uninspiring.  So I'm not sure if it's worth the $6.
 
A.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Aug 08 01:32:38 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35409</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Arthur</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>35412</id>
      <content>As I said to Marshall, at this level it's hard, I think, to place one burger above another except on personal preference.  I liked Bluehour's pretty well.  I appreciated that it had a smokiness.  I also liked their condiments, including sun-dried tomatoes and pickled onions, and I believe, fennel.  But all the parts were top notch: bun, meat, condiments, cooking.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Aug 08 01:49:43 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35410</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>35568</id>
      <content>I tried the burger at Mothers this week and wasn't impressed. I've been hearing a lot of good things about the Slow Bar burger. Have you tried that one yet?

Link: http://portlandfood.blogspot.com</content>
      <published_at>Fri Aug 12 17:25:30 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35356</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>FoodDude</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>35573</id>
      <content>Nope.  I don't drink, so rarely hit bars.  Is it smoky in there?</content>
      <published_at>Fri Aug 12 19:28:44 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35568</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>extramsg</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>35951</id>
      <content>It is smoky in the Slow Bar. The burger is average. It comes on a roll, which easily falls apart, and includes fried onion rings on it.</content>
      <published_at>Thu Aug 25 22:01:18 -0700 2005</published_at>
      <parent_id>35573</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Melissa</name>
      </user>
    </post>
  </posts>
</topic>
