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Mar 26, 2002 11:57 AM

Anchovies Winter Place

  • h

I recently made anchovies winter place for a party and was asked if Locke-Ober's re-vamped menu still offers it. Does anyone know?

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  1. Ooooh: anchovies! Is this a recipe? Can you share it?

    14 Replies
    1. re: ld

      I use the recipe Frank gave me twenty years ago. You need good quality anchovies, nice and meaty. Arrange in a lattice patern on a small oval plate with bib lettuce beneath. Add chopped onion on one end and slice, cold beets (or tomatoes) on the other. Make a vinaigrette usinc the classic french dressing slightly spiked. L-O used to have both vingar and lemon oin their sauce. Pour this on and garnish with a little grated or chopped hard cooked egg. Serve cold.

      Bonus recipe: this is not Locke's but it is a favorite and I cannot let this go by a fellow anchovy devotee. Take good quality filet--or some folks use the whole fish---and soak in cold salted water (even if it is a filet packed in oil) Leach out some salt to taste. Dry well, dredge in a beer batter or basic fritter batter (I like the latter but beer is good to) and fry in oil. Season lightly with some pepper and serve hot with a VERY cold martini.

      1. re: Hazelhurst

        I have never fried the whole anchovy in beer or fritter batter, but I have rolled it in cornmeal and fried it up a la smelts. Fantastic.

        Anchovy fans need to stick together.

        1. re: baruch

          Variations on an ethereal theme--why not cornmeal? (finely ground or coarse? There are hours of fun in this debate.)
          In a related area, fried, stuffed olives are magnificent..again, as with anchovies, to be served with an artic martini--gin only, thank you. Vodka drinkers are welcome, though.......

          1. re: Hazelhurst

            I prefer coarse yellow or blue cornmeal, but have tried all varieties and am pleased with all.

            I had some great anchovy stuffed fried olives down in New Orleans...with about a bucket full of gin of course. mmmmm...

        2. re: Hazelhurst

          "Anchovies" and "fried" in the same context? I wouldn't have believed such a fantasy was possible!


          1. re: Hazelhurst

            Since the topic has turned to anchovies in general, I must share that while being a tourguide to a friend, and shopping in the North End this weekend, I found those wonderful marinated, fresh, white anchovies at Salumeria Toscana, on Hanover St, for $14.99 a pound...The going rate at Bread and Circus is $24.99!! I bought a giant loaf of their sour-dough bread, (about 3 or 4 lbs, and $4, and great!) and had a bruschetta feast!

            1. re: galleygirl

              I had boquerones at Dali a few weeks ago, and they blew me away. I realized that I had never had good anchovies before. Now I know what all the fuss is about. I've been wondering where I could buy some. But even at $14.99/lb., sounds like I'm acquiring yet another expensive taste, courtesy of THANKS, galleygirl...

              1. re: C. Fox

                Hey, 1/2 lb. kept us going all wkend!..Of course, if you're going all that WAY, you'd wannah stock up..(g)
                They were as high quality as the ones at Dali, and they're serving, what an ounce? This is a budget-cutting tip!! You should feel virtuous!

            2. re: Hazelhurst
              Peter McCarthy

              The Frank you mention, is that Frank Curro? He was the maitre d' at Locke's when I waited tables there. Not a fun guy to work for.

              1. re: Peter McCarthy

                The very same--touchy guy, I agree. Chico worked the upstairs in those days--he was always quite pleasant and acomodating.

                I should love to hear your tales of working at the Old Place. I always liked the old, run-down joint. Lots of butter and lots of larceny. A perfect restaurant......

                1. re: Hazelhurst

                  From a customer's point of view, Frank was a national treasure!

                  Frank used to call me at my office whenever my favorite duck preparation was on the lunch menu. His professional courtesies remain cherished memories to this humble patron.

                  1. re: Win (Boston)

                    I agree--he did a similar service for me regarding soft shells--and I was a mere nobody in the L-O pantheon. He could ride the staff, though--old school. I never saw him as rough as some european Maitre d'hotels & captains, though. It's a rough business behind those kitchen doors.

                    Chico always seemed inordinately kind....

                    1. re: Hazelhurst
                      Peter McCarthy

                      I have tons of stories about the place. When I worked there (1981-1982) the wait staff was in transition from old-world and unionized to younger, American-born, and casual.

                      Frank ran the place like he was king and we were his subjects. His autocratic style worked with the old-timers, but not us smart-assed kids. A couple of examples:

                      Before we opened for dinner each night, the 1st floor wait staff ate together at the bar in the Men's Café. But first someone had to serve Frank his meal on full linen at one of the café's tables. When he finished, you had to quickly clear and reset the table before he sat the night's first party.

                      When he saw something that needed attention (menus laying on the bar, an abandoned ice bucket), he would invariably tell the busiest guy on the floor to handle it.

                      Then one day, Frank was gone. He'd been fired for scratching graffiti in the wallpaper above the urinals in the 1st floor men's room (the one I remember was "Yankees must die".) I was glad to see him go.


                      I can write a longer post about my experiences at Locke Ober if it's not too off-topic for this message board.

                      1. re: Peter McCarthy

                        Great stories, especially the one about the "firing." The bathroom touch is good but I think it is "over the top." Frank was probably cashiered because he'd out-lived the old Groton/Andover-Harvard mob who'd been mainstays of the place AND the consortium that owned the joint just could never get the act together. Frank was old school and the new boys--who failed in their administration of the place---just could not deal with him.

                        I'd love to hear more tales about the restaurant--replete with the usual "behind the scenes" stories. When you worked there you were "a kid" as you say. At a risk, I surmise that you have not become a profesional waiter, as many of the old mob before your L-O tenure were. (They were not unionized but the smart ones owned apartment buildings).

                        I saw Frank "at dinner" more than once--it was easy to see through the windows on the alley. He was playing it for all it was worth. Well, what the hell... I liked the old place. No.. I LOVED it..and I knew much of what REALLY went on behind the doors.

                        You, of course, know more first hand info and I should be glad to hear anyting you would care to share.

          2. They are on the current menu, but I can't recall whether it was lunch, dinner, or both.