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It's time to talk about Mississippi Food

c
Carter Jan 2, 2001 04:34 PM

As a former residence of Mississippi- it'll always be my home- I've sadly noted the lack of good discussion of Mississippi food places on this website. Plenty of really good places haven't been mentioned at all. So, I hope with this (rather long) post to start generating a solid discussion about places to eat there. I'm from the Jackson area, so my posts will naturally be biased towards locations around there. I challenge all Mississippi readers to add comments to my musings, and more importantly add new places as suggestions. Let's give Mississippi some respect on this board. It has a great food heritage.

First off, we should talk catfish. As every true Mississippian knows, barbecue does not drive heated arguments across the state like it does in the rest of the south. Fried catfish does. We all have an opinion and where our favorite places are. But, no matter the place, Mississippi catfish is always better than anywhere else. I've spent the past 4 years in Texas (Houston and Austin), and I refuse to eat their fried catfish. It just doesn?t taste the same, the batter is too heavy and the fish doesn?t taste fresh enough. It's a similar attitude that my Louisiana friends have about gumbo away from their state, or my Texas friends have about barbecue not from the Lone Star State.

And these catfish places have some of the most character of any kind of food establishment Mississippi. I've heard of places where they have catfish ponds out in the back, and you go out and catch a fish and they cook it for your right there. Most catfish places will serve fillets or catfish halves with the bones left in. The meal will generally come with hushpuppies, French fries, and cole slaw. All you-can-eat deals can generally be had as well. I've been to a place that is more of a heavy-duty tent than restaurant. When people get together in Mississippi, it's generally for a fish fry. Eating catfish is a communal action found all over the state.

All of this being said, I?m not going to start naming many places. One reason is I haven?t been to that many and most I don't remember the names. I will merely say that if you visit Mississippi and want the true Mississippi food experience, you should ask some locals where the best catfish place is and go and enjoy the experience. For the record, I grew up close to Brandon, and I enjoy Cindy's close the Hwy 25 and 471 intersection.

Compared, to the rest of the South, Mississippi has a severe lack of barbecue. However, there is one place that deserves ample praise. Leatha?s now in Hattisburg. This is no doubt my favorite place to eat in the whole state. I am a barbecue hound (my love of it, helped me find this website), and I've had and enjoyed some of the best. Parker's, Lexington, Dreamland, Interstate, Country Tavern (an unheralded rib place near Kilgore, TX) , Cooper's, Kreuz's. All of these are great places serving amazing meat. But, Miss Leatha Jackson tops them all. She serves melt-in-your-mouth ribs, tender beef short ribs, all covered with a very unique sauce, it's sweet, but not overly so. Amazing stuff. On my barbecue scale, she rates a 99 out of 100. No place has ever gotten a 100, because I'm afraid that food that good would cause a heart attack, and I would go to that great barbecue pit in the sky.

Sadly, like Kreuz's in Lockhart, TX, she has been transitioning in the past year. She used to be based in Foxworth, but because of tax problems or something, has moved to Hattisburg with new ownership. I've been down twice since she re-opened. The first time in October was disappointing. Merely ordinary ribs. But my second visit in late December, had her back on top. Some of the charm of the old place is gone (there is just something right about having to drive way out in the country to get good ribs), but there are still towels for curtains on the windows, the superb cole slaw is still mustard based (try it, you'll like it). She's also has a website now and a lunchtime location (go to the real place). The website will help you with directions (hard to find, the place is off Highway 98 behind a set of green buildings). www.leathas.com This place should definitely be included in every barbecue junkie?s must-eat list.

Jackson, for a town of its size (~400K) has some really good food finds. Here's a quick summary of my favorite places in the Jackson area:

Times Change. Many consider this Jackson?s finest restaurant. A small place with only 4-5 workers including the chef, Tom. His lamb is outstanding, and I've had some elk there that was amazing. I understand that Times Change has moved to Madison, but I haven't been to the new location.

Bravo! Another jewel of a restaurant serving consistently good food. Their free-range chicken with asiago cheese butter is to die for. Many good pasta dishes as well. In Highland Village.

Mayflower Café. A downtown, 50s diner that has retained its character. Like many places in Jackson, there is a Greek influence on the food. The seafood salad is especially memorable. Make sure you try the Comeback sauce. Comeback is, apparently, a Jackson food quirk. I guess you would call it a spicy Thousand Island but much, much better. I like it best on crackers.

Marcels. In the northern part of town. Another Greek influenced place. Try their broiled red fish. It's great, and I don?t even like most fish. The same family owns Creshel's (I may be spelling that wrong) in the southern part of town.

Farmer's Market. Close to downtown off Woodrow Wilson Blvd. Next to the Farmer's Market, this place always has amazing vegetables at really good prices. Their breakfast is also and amazing bargain.

Hal and Mal's. Another downtown restaurant that also offers live music. The menu is pure Southern (mmhhh, fried pickles) and the music is good too.

Thats my take on Jackson. Who wants to make additions?

I'm not as familiar with the rest of Mississippi. In fact, I don't know of any places along the coast or in the Northwest part of the state (come on Mississippi State people, where do you like to eat?) However, there are some real gems to be found:

Doe's Eat Place in Greenville (Make sure you go the original and not their spur by the highway). A very famous place for their 40oz. Porterhouse steaks, French fries, and tamales (can someone explain to me why African Americans, at least those in Mississippi, make tamales?). The steaks have immense flavor and have a wonderful flavor.

Revolving Tables in Mendenhall. Known for their fried chicken and generally Southern food served on lazy Susans.

Phillips Grocery in Holly Springs. I read somewhere it had the best burgers in the nation. I can't say I agree with that, but they are really good, and if you are in the area.

K.C.'s in Cleveland. I haven't been there, but I've heard some many good reports that I thought I should include it. It's the place I want to try when I'm in the area. The menu sounds complex and expensive, but it also sounds great.

That's it. You can see that I need some more top-notch places. I've read about Lusco's somewhere in the Delta (maybe Greenwood?) that serves good Southern food. Taylor Grocery and Oxford Grocery (in Taylor and Oxford, obviously) have also gotten some good mentions. But, I know I'm missing some other really great places (there is a post below about some places in Oxford). The little dinners that serve meat and 3. The catfish shacks on the side of the road. The small tamale stands in the Delta. What am I missing?

This went longer than I expected, but I only because I wanted to get as much info in here so as to try and represent the great food of Mississippi and to generate the discussion. I hope that this helps?

Carter

  1. j
    John Murrell Oct 1, 2002 06:39 PM

    Thanks Carter!

    I've been away from Mississippi for many years so the places I describe may no longer exist.

    Ridge Road between Ellisville and Laurel had some farms that grew the damnedest beefsteak tomatoes. Something about the soil and climate. Just unbelievable. My relatives from New England know all about 'Jones County Tomatos' as one summer we drove a few bushels up with us for our summer vacation. Toast some white bread, spread some homemade mayo, throw on a couple of thick slices... sigh. Bacon or lettuce would have been a detriment.

    Laurel also had a cafe/diner called Luke's. Famous with truckers all over back in the early/mid 1970's. Best breakfast (biscuits to die for) in the world. Eggs, biscuits, bacon or sausage, grits & coffee all for about $1.60.

    Other Mississippi highlights:

    Weidmann's in Meridian. Wait staff was all middle aged black male PROFESSIONALS. I'm sure that has changed in deference to political correctness. Too bad. Those guys were good and they were proud.

    The Revolving Tables in Mendenhall. Wonderful home cooking served on huge lazy susans at tables that sat about 16 people each. (Jackson had a similar place called The White House).

    By the way, you got it right about the catfish shacks. It would be silly to try to rate them cuz there are so many and they're so good. But as you said, no chowhound trip to the magnolia state would be complete without going to one.

    Anyway, thanks for bringing back the memories!

    1. s
      sam brookes Aug 31, 2001 02:57 PM

      I went to Does Eat Place in April and my wife and I each had the small steak, a 3 pound porterhouse. It was awesome! The salad with lemon garlic dressing was stunning and the home fried potatoes were great. We had lunch in Belzoni at the International Catfish Festival. We ate standing up at tables on the Courthouse Square, while watching the 10 most beautiful women I had ever seen, compete to be Miss Catfish! The biker standing next to me said "Only in the South would women that gorgeous fight to be Miss
      Catfish." And the catfish was great. While in the Greenville area drive over to see Winterville Indian Mounds Museum and Park.

      1. e
        Ernest Martin Jul 25, 2001 10:15 PM

        On the Coast- Two classic plate lunch drugstores-Triplett-Day in G`pt and Calvert-Gamble in Biloxi.These are must eat places. Surprise place for the best po-boys-MallMart in the Food Court of Edgewater mall

        1. a
          AK May 20, 2001 02:52 PM

          Can I put in a plug for the sausages from The Little Dooey in Starkville? They were the absolute highlight of my rehearsal dinner -- it's a darned good thing my wedding dress wasn't tight, because goodness knows I put enough of those things away the night before...

          1. p
            Pat Downs Mar 19, 2001 11:09 AM

            We have a group of nine who will be cycling the Natchez Trace in late April/early May. We have one vegetarian aboard, and the rest of us fall pretty much on the healthy side of eating, with great appreciation for ambiance of all types, and good beer and wine. In my surfing, as one of the restaurant finders for this trek, I've found a very few critical reviews or referrals (this site is the best), and only one really great website for a restaurant..Bravo! in Jackson, MS. Does anyone have any recommendations for our motley crew in the following cities/towns? (We will have a sag van so that we can drive a bit in the evening to a neighboring town). Stops include: Natchez, Vicksburg, Jackson, Tupelo, Florence, AL, Hohenwald, TN, and finally Nashville (where we have lots of options). Any input GREATLY APPRECIATED. thx, pat

            2 Replies
            1. re: Pat Downs
              s
              Susan Thomsen Mar 28, 2001 10:25 AM

              Have fun on that biking trip, and do post a note about your restaurant finds when you return. Some of my friends & family have been wanting to bike the Trace.

              For vegetarian food in Jackson, Miss., I'd recommend Rainbow Whole Foods High Noon Cafe Deli and Bakery, 2807 Old Canton Road, 366-1513. (This is near the intersection of Old Canton and Lakeland Drive, & is very close to the very large University of Miss. Medical Center.) There's a co-op grocery associated with the store, too; definitely call ahead for the restaurant's hours; it may not be the same as the store's. And nearby is a coffee place called Cups, where you can pick up a cappuccino to fuel your ride.

              Have a good trip,
              Susan

              1. re: Susan Thomsen
                p
                Pat Apr 2, 2001 01:13 PM

                thanks much, Susan.

            2. t
              Tater Mar 8, 2001 11:30 AM

              We are headed to Jackson later this month or early next...my wife's hometown.

              As an Ole Miss Rebel with roots in Greenwood, I have to comment. City Grocery in Oxford is excellent, but crowded on most weekends. Try to hit it on a non-game weekend (even basketball). Taylor Grocery (15 miles outside Oxford) had great catfish and excellent "environment" 10 years ago... Starnes in Abbeville WAS my favorite for catfish and hushpuppies, but heard it's gone. I've heard good things about Yocona River Steakhouse outside Oxford. Never been though.

              Lusco's is a treat. Great, great food in a great atmosphere--very different. Whatever fish they are serving is usually excellent. A must when in Greenwood. Crystal Grill for lunch or a second dinner was also good...great memories at least.

              My parents will drive 3.5 hours to Cleveland for KC's. I've never been, but I would classify Dad as a top-line chowhound.

              Thanks for a great topic with many memories. I am looking forward to getting back to some Jackson food.

              1. j
                Jim Feb 8, 2001 08:31 PM

                Malone's in Lee Co. off of Hwy 6 was an experience I'll never forget. It's been at least 15 years since I was last there but I can still taste the catfish. It was served family style to each table. You ordered catfish or fried chicken and a large platter arrived at the table. When the platter was empty another appeared. Same for the hushpuppies. I have no idea if they are still there or not. (Hopefully so...) If you find yourself in the area, it will be worth your while to check into it. The place and the food were truly remarkable.

                Jim

                1. r
                  RB Feb 5, 2001 08:52 AM

                  Spent almost two years in Tupelo; this place was in the middle of nowhere (20 years ago). What a place! Every room a different color (must have gotten a deal on oops! paint), nekkid light bulbs, but killer catfish and hush puppies. Scene of many great gatherings. Has it bitten the dust?

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: RB
                    t
                    Tater Mar 8, 2001 11:23 AM

                    10 years ago. Forgot about that place.

                  2. c
                    Cathy Elton Jan 12, 2001 03:28 PM

                    Oh, I'm SO disappointed to hear that Leatha's moved. That old location way, way out across the railroad tracks, was so cool, with the little shack and everything....wah.

                    Not that I was going back to Mississippi anytime soon, but I like to think of Leatha's just being there as it was!

                    1. c
                      Catherine Jan 3, 2001 03:09 PM

                      You're right -- Mississippi isn't very well represented on the boards. Food is pretty good down here, but the really good places sometimes tend to be holes in the wall whose names you quickly forget. Down here on the coast, restaurants are quickly moving to the chain style places, something that, as a New Orleans native, are simply not done.

                      Doe's Eat Place is one of the best meals I've ever had. A little puny salad, a delicious potato, and the most delicious steak you can eat (by the pound!). And you have to get the tamales. The entrance seems like a bit of anachronism if you're from anywhere but the South.

                      Cock on the Walk, as someone else suggested, has excellent catfish. There used to be one down here on the coast, but it was sold a loooong time ago.

                      Here on the coast, you get a lot of good seafood joints. Pirate's Cove in Pass Christian is quite good -- their bread is wonderful, but take care to visit the one in Pass Christian, not in Gulfport (atmosphere!). Get the oyster or roast beef poboy and have a cold beer or barq's.

                      Huck's in Gautier is very good -- delicious hamburgers (the Christmas Island burger with 2 kinds of cheeses and red and green peppers is DIVINE) and a fun atmosphere. Half the restaurant is on a dock, and the other half inside. Boats pull up and have meals served on board. Good bar, too, and they frequently have live music on the deck. Unfortunately, they keep kind of strange hours, so call ahead.

                      Also, Seaman's Cove in Moss Point has some of the best seafood/anything fried on the coast. The best hushpuppies you've ever had in your life, every sandwich tastes better on Texas Toast, and their stuffed flounder is a meal to be had.

                      Here on the coast, I'd say my favorite would have to be Trapani's in Bay St. Louis. Great seafood, great poboys, great food overall, and they serve poboys as well as delicious seafood dishes in a family atmosphere. Chappy's in Long Beach gets a lot of exposure, but I find it tends to be inconsistent and slightly overpriced. Chimney's in Long Beach was very good last time I went.

                      Truthfully, though, if I want ethnic, experimental, or a very fine meal, I drive the hour into New Orleans. Sad, but there's nothing that even comes close down here.

                      Blue skies,
                      Catherine

                      2 Replies
                      1. re: Catherine
                        c
                        Carter Jan 4, 2001 01:45 PM

                        Woo hoo! Thanks for your Coast posting, Catherine! I was driving though on I-10 last spring and I was sad because I didn't know of one single restaurant at which to stop. I believe I stopped at Waffle House (if you are going to get greasy food, at least get it from a place with character). Now, though, I have some ideas at least. I didn't expect there to be any super restaurants in the area because of the New Orleans-proximity bit that you mention. The Sun always eclipses the moon, so to speak. But I knew there should be something. Now we have some ideas for others to try.

                        I got the impression from your post that you've been on the Coast for a while. If so, I'm curious to know what affect the casinos might have had on the food. One would hope that the influx of tourists would have cause some better non-chain restaurants to appear. Have they? What about in the casinos themselves? Anything better cheap buffets? Does the somewhat-fancy Beau Rivage have any good places to dine? Surely it must...

                        Carter

                        1. re: Carter
                          c
                          Catherine Jan 4, 2001 06:12 PM

                          I grew up in New Orleans and spent lots of summers and weekends on the coast till I went off to college. I only moved out to the coast about a year and a half ago, though.

                          The character of the coast has changed a lot since the casinos moved in. I'd venture a guess that food has gotten a bit worse since the casinos came down, more touristy. Off the top of my head, I can't think of any places that have opened up since the casinos came in that aren't chain restaurants, actually -- lots of Applebees, TGIFridays, Outback, Olive Garden, and the like. At least it seems that way -- I really didn't do that much eating out when I was here growing up.

                          The casino food isn't terrible, but it isn't great, either. Beau Rivage advertises a great buffet, and people tend to like it, but it's made me (and several other people I know) sick every time I've eaten there. I've only been to one other restaurant in the Beau -- the steakhouse place, whose name I can't remember right now. It was good but overpriced (no surprise), and you really have to avoid peak hours -- sometimes it can take upwards of an hour to get seated. That's another thing New Orleans natives never do -- wait to get food. :) The brewery is supposed to be good, too, and priced a little more reasonably.

                          Don't get me wrong -- there's definitely good food to be had down here. I'm probably spoiled growing up in New Orleans, which may distort my idea of what a restaurant should be. I would say, though, that you're far better off at some dive than trying to dig up fine cuisine on the coast. While you're here, you'll eat some great seafood, some great poboys, and have a great time, but don't expect to stumble on fancy Ethiopian restaurant. :)

                          And there's nothing wrong with the Awful Waffle. :)

                          One other that I left off my list -- I still haven't tried it yet, but the newest restaurant in Pass Christian is Holt's, a seafood and pasta place off the beach. It opened up a few months ago, and was supposed to have good steak dishes, a pretty good wine list, and a nice ambience. I'll have to try it soon and report.

                          Blue skies,
                          Catherine

                      2. d
                        Dave Feldman Jan 2, 2001 10:07 PM

                        Wow, Carter, what a great post.

                        I wish we could have more posts about the less populous states (there MUST be good food somewhere in North Dakota, doesn't there?).

                        I've only spent about 3 days in Mississippi in my life, and none of them eating fried catfish or Leatha's barbecue. I'm culturally deprived!

                        1. p
                          pat hammond Jan 2, 2001 07:40 PM

                          Thanks, Carter, for a terrific report. I haven't been in Mississippi for years and years and it made me want to travel back. pat

                          3 Replies
                          1. re: pat hammond
                            s
                            Susan Thomsen Jan 3, 2001 10:32 AM

                            Hey, Carter. What a fun post about good eatin' in the Magnolia State. I agree with you about Cindy's Catfish; it's goood. What do you think about Cock on the Walk, on the Reservoir? (It's near Jackson, y'all.) I've had some decent, if a bit overly salty, catfish and fried pickles there.

                            The caramel cake at Primos Northgate (in North Jackson) and its next-door deli is GREAT. I love that stuff. Mmm, that caramel icing... (Primos Northgate Deli, 4330 N. State St., 601/982-3398)

                            Now, you know we need to talk about boiled peanuts, right? The Farmers Market (Woodrow Wilson Avenue, Jackson, 601/354-6573, a mile or two west of I-55), has several stands that offer these. And, if any of you are in Jackson especially during the summer, don't miss the Farmers Market. Seek out the watermelons from Smith County, which has a reputation as producing the best in the state.

                            Susan

                            1. re: Susan Thomsen
                              c
                              Carter Jan 4, 2001 01:30 PM

                              Thanks for some more ideas, Susan. I forgot about Primo's, but then I've never had their carmel cake. As for Cock on the Walk, I haven't been their in years, and I don't remember their catfish. I'll have to try and get out there again sometime.

                              As for boiled peanuts, I thought about discussing them, but forgot to put them in. Thanks for bringing them up. I'm especially glad you mention a place to get them because I've only ever see them sold on the roadside by the kind of guys who sell fresh tomotoes. For those who didn't grow up with them, boiled peanuts are usually shunned. After all, they are slightly salty and have such an unexpected texture. But those are exactly the reasons I love them. I adore the soft, but slightly crisp (dare I call it al dente?) texture that are addictive like good, plain pototo chips.

                              Living here in Texas, I was surprised that I never see peanuts sold by the side of the road. I know they are common all over the south. Most roadside stops here instead seem to have beef jerky-- something that I would never want to stop and buy. But then, I imagine Texans living in the Deep South, probably laugh at the boiled peanuts guys and yearn for their jerky. To each, his own.

                              Can anybody confirm the rumor that some people in the south put peanuts in their RC Cola? If so, are they boiled or roasted? Furthermore, WHY?

                              1. re: Carter
                                i
                                Iris Jan 7, 2001 10:38 AM

                                I don't know if putting peanuts in your drink is still popular, but 40 years ago in elementary school, it was the thing to do! We would pour a small bag of salted roasted peanuts in a bottle of Pepsi. It would foam up out of the bottle if you weren't quick to drink the foam. Then you drank the Pepsi and ate the peanuts once the drink was gone. The foaming action was probably what appealed to us as children. Thanks for reminding me of that fond recess memory!

                          2. c
                            Christine DiBona Jan 2, 2001 05:06 PM

                            What are using to generate your text!?!? As this is not slashdot or crackmonkey, I won't flame you for being a MS user, but those ? in place of ' are REALLY annoying.
                            But then halfway through your message, you seem to have corrected the problem. Is this a typing problem or a did you start to write your post in some word-processing application and then finish it in the form???
                            If you want to compose in an different program, rather than in the form provided, and you are using MS, find and use your notepad. If you run a sane OS like Linux or BSD, use vi or gedit. If you are a double jointed masochist, use emacs. I don't care, just use a text editor.
                            I'm usually only this cranky about food, but this is a real peeve of mine. So, please keep writing about food, just PLEASE in a readable form.

                            Thank you

                            Christine

                            2 Replies
                            1. re: Christine DiBona
                              j
                              Jason Perlow Jan 3, 2001 07:38 AM

                              Christine:

                              Looks fine here in Windows 2000 IE 5.5.

                              Looks messed up in Mandrake Linux and NS6. :(

                              1. re: Christine DiBona
                                c
                                Carter Jan 3, 2001 09:20 AM

                                Guilty as charged. I used Word because my spelling isn't very good, and notepad doesn't spell check. Maybe I should have saved it to text and then opened to Notepad. Anyway, I tried to correct all the ? to '. Looking back at the post, it appears I missed one or two. But not that many. I'm looking at the post in Netscape 6 on NT.

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