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Old Favorites -- Uglesich's, Galatoire's, and Mr. B's

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Dave Feldman Apr 19, 2000 03:28 AM

Had another fantastic food day. Although the thrill of discovery can't be beat, there is also something wonderful about finding that old favorites are still going strong. If there was a theme today, it was that frying is alive and well in New Orleans.

It was a gorgeous, non-humid day in the Crescent City, so I decided to walk to Uglesich's for lunch. If anything, the food was better than other, especially the transcendent fried green tomatoes topped with shrimp and the best remoulade sauce I've ever had. Oysters were perfectly fried, too, although I still think I prefer their raw oysters.

Dinner was at Galatoire's, and although the comparison shrimp remoulade revealed no contest (compared to Uglesich's, it tastes like doctored ketchup), the special crawfish etoufee was magnifique (the waitress hotly disputed the notion that the crawfish this year were substandard or smaller than usual -- only that they are less plentiful and more than double the usual price). But the star, as usual, was the trout menieure amandine, one of the greatest uses of butter I've ever tasted. Absolutely consistent, this dish never changes and never fails to satisfy. The bread has been upgraded since the last time I was there, and the menu has been expanded (many more desserts, for examples). The wine list has some remarkably inexpensive bottles.

Desserts have never been Galatoire's strong point, so we walked over to Mr. B's because he wanted to eat a good bread pudding and I wanted to try Mr. B's strawberry shortcake. The recipe at Mr. B's seems to be the same over time, but someone is working on consistency. There are more crispyish edges than there used to be, and the added texture just makes the dish more appealing. Strawberry shortcake? An unqualified winner. Absolutely ripe strawberries (grown 30 miles away from New Orleans) atop a delicate biscuit (why do so few restaurants use shortcake in strawberry shortcake) and whipped cream. The best s.s. I've had in years.

Excellent chicory coffee and I have few complaints about life.

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