New Orleans Indulgences??
- Lisa Antinore Apr 9, 1999 12:03 PM
I finally planned my first trip to New Orleans for over the Memorial Day weekend. I'm very excited about it and want to really indulge in local cuisine. I've looked through this board at previous New Orleans posts and found Jim's Mother's tip and a few others very helpful (eg. Uglesich's, Acme Oyster House, Central Grocery, la Madeline French Bakery etc.)
As much as I love the tiny, divey, backroads places I'd also like to experience the famed culinary strongholds of New Orleans and have made reservations at the following thus far:
Three jazz brunches/breakfasts:
Brennan's (I must have the eggs sardou and bananas foster...)
Court of the Two Sisters
Emeril's (I couldn't resist and could only snag an 11:pm two months in advance!!)
Antoines (baked alaska!!!)
Bayona (I have heard tons of wonderful things about Susan Spicer's cooking...)
Am I going overboard with the jazz brunches? When will I have time to sample the debris at Mother's??? or the Po' boys at Johnny's?? Should I lose the Bayona reservation in favor of something more traditional such as Tugague's, Galatoire's, Arnaud's, K-Paul's, Napoleon House, or Rib Room??? All of these choices are sending me into a culinary anxiety attack and I'd love for some of you who have visited New Orleans to set me straight with your ideas of ESSENTIAL New Orleans- the very best and nothing else.....
Thanks so much and happy eating,
I can't belive I forgot to mention this: One of my fav
website: www.gumbopages.com a site put together by
Chuck Taggart, A New Orleans raised expatriate in
California. TONS of insider info on everything you may
be interested in New Orleans; lots of food, where to
go for Jazz and other entertainment. I need to eat
while I'm reading the pages 'cos I get so hungry
imagining the meals.
I agree. I really think you are going to be dissapointed with Emeril's. It was a great place when Emeril was cooking. Now that he is off being a TV star the place puts out assenmbly line food. NOLA really does do a better job.
Three jazz brunches are definitely too much. Commander's is the best by far. Ask for the garden room. If you must have bananas foster then go ahead and go to Brennan's, otherwise there's not much to it. Avoid The Court of Two Sisters. Just a big breakfast buffet you would find anywhere, including Shoney's. No reason to miss Mother's for that.
The only traditional place I would recommend is Galatoire's. I would exchange that for Antoine's unless you must have Baked Alaska.
Welcome back Lisa -- i was tempted not to post unless
you promised to post more frequently (where have you
been?) but why stand on ceremony.
Some of my impressions from the high end places --we
were there four years ago, and several people who I
trust went last fall and reported back as well
Bayona -- great -- great food, great place
Commanders -- avoid it , it is pretty but you feel
like you are in a factory, and the food tastes it.
Emerils -- we liked it, and had nver heard of him
before, but we have heard mixed things since -- also,
we have heard uniformly bad about Nola recently.
The other high end place we really like was
Brigsten's. At all of these places you pay much less
than in NY.
Be sure to report back when you return.
re: Alan Divack
"where have you been?"
Rather than put Lisa to the trouble of reciting her resume once again, it might be easier to send you and others interested to her exuberant self-accounting posted a couple of months ago on the Outer Boroughs message board (look for "Lisa Antinore where are you?")
re: Alan Divack
Sorry to here that NOLA is no longer good. It's been a few years since I've been. Was at Bayona within the year and it was great as ever. I really have a hard time ordering anything but the sweetbreads. The texture is incredible. A light crisp on the exterior.
Commander's can definitely be avoided for dinner, but if you have to do a jazz brunch it's the one to go to.
re: jim benzian
We ate at NOLA a couple of weeks ago. The first
courses were fine but the main courses were
disappointing. My husband ordered the tasting sampler,
only to be told about ten minutes later that they had
pulled it from the menu because it was "not up to
standards." He then ordered a grilled chicken dish
that was on the overdone side. Whatever I had was so
unmemorable that I can't even think what it was just
now. We shared a chocolate peanut butter pie which I
liked a lot because it wasn't very sweet (he didn't
like it so much for the same reason). I liked the
decor, which is very un-typical of New Orleans (more
like Barbara Lazaroff's touch on Wolfgang Puck's
restaurants) although the place is noisy. We may go
back in the summer when the place is quiet and sit at
the counter to watch the cooks. Can't do that very
many places in New Orleans.
As Jim Benzian said, don't do so many fancy jazz brunches that you miss breakfast at Mother's. Also, bear in mind that New Orleans is to food what Atlantic City is to architecture...there are the towering, expensive landmark places, and then there are the down-home places, which constitute an entirely different scene/cuisine. As a New Orleans native was complaining a couple of months ago, there is very little in between, so it's easy to get tired of the food scene if you live there.
Your list is way too heavily weighted toward the high-end places. And from what I've tried down there (and heard from learned local chowhounds), most of 'em are as overrated and past their prime as the tired, tired jazz you hear in bars on Bourbon Street these days
re: Jim Leff
Most people who go to New Orleans from great restaurant cities are dissapointed by the high-end places. They can't match what's going on in New York, L.A., Chicago or San Francisco. The fun really is in the local joints. Ugelesich's should not be missed. Consider going uptown to places like Franky and Johnnies. A great spot for crawfish. Make sure to suck the heads.
re: jim benzian
"Ugelesich's should not be missed"
yes, of course (but did I hear that they changed owners? I'm only about 25% sure I've heard that). And that late-night diner at the opposite end of the trolley line from downtown that makes the big puffy omelets (you surely know it...)
The essential point is that the fancy places serve a completely different cuisine...it's the old Creole cooking. So while they don't serve chow as vibrantly delicious as places like Mother's and Ugelesich's, they're still well worth at least ONE meal in order to sample that cuisine, faded though their kitchens may be.
Hey, do you live down there? Know any Armenian places? Or any Armenian places ANYWHERE for that matter?
re: Jim Leff
The place you are thinking of is the Camelia Grill. Definitely the best late night place in town.
I don't live there anymore. I was there from '89-94. I try to get back at least once a year.
By the way, one of the best ways to get good local food is to check out the booths at the Jazz and Heritage Festival. One of the great things they have had in past years is the crawfish bread. Crawfish tails in a creamy sauce stuffed and then baked in a wonderful yeasty bread. Some local restaurants would try and duplicate what was made at the fairgrounds but I never could find the real thing. Jazz Fest is the last weekend in April and the first in May
My name fools a lot of people. It's actually not Armenian. I don't know any Armenian restaurants in New orlenas
re: jim benzian
"By the way, one of the best ways to get good local food is to check out the booths at the Jazz and Heritage Festival"
strangely, the best cajun food I ever had was at the Stockholm Blues and Jazz Festival, which I played in 1988. There's an expat there who prides himself on making great gumbo for all the musicians. It was great.
re: Jim Leff
Don't think there are any real Armenian restaurants in
NO. The closest is probably Mona's on Banks St., which
is more or less Middle Eastern and is attached to a
grocery which miraculously makes fresh pita bread daily
(nearly the only pita to be found in this city) and
carries other Middle Eastern ingredients. There is
also Odyssey Grill, which is sort of Greek, and very
good, and serves some of that sort of food, as well as
various Mediterranean dishes. I have been told there's
a Middle Eastern-type (maybe Lebanese?) restaurant on
Carrolton, on the streetcar line, but haven't tried it.
In Los Angeles I worked in an area that had a small
concentration of Iranian restaurants, and I miss that
kind of food.
re: Tom Armitage
I'm aware of the Iranian restaurant enclave in
Westwood, but I never got out there to try any of them.
I worked for a couple of years at the Transamerica
tower near the garment distict, and there are a bunch
of little Iranian cafes in that area. The closest one
to our building was called the Golden Olive or
something like that (on 11th and Hill);then there was
another one a few blocks closer to downtown LA or Hill
that a lot of people liked. In a food court on Los
Angeles Street on the western edge of the garment
district was another one that served a boiled (!)
chicken that I crave in my memory, and they would
always give me the crusty part of the rice. I've found
a place to buy barberries in New Orleans but haven't
been able to come up with the right-tasting barberry
rice. I think the rice needs some saffron?
(1) Don't pass up Bayona. The food there is the best
in town. (2) Mother's is good but locals find it too
expensive. But if you're in the area I'd still
recommend it. The last time I had seafood gumbo there
it was really good. (3) We didn't find Emeril's to be
all that great, but if you must . . . NOLA, his
slightly downscale (but NOT inexpensive) restaurant is
pretty good too. If you feel compelled to try
Delmonico's, his latest venture, it is VERY
expensive by New Orleans standards. (4) If you want
to go to K Paul's, go at lunch. The prices are much
lower and the food is about the same. (5) Rib Room as
been getting good reviews lately. (6) If you have a
car and can get to Chalmette on the east side of the
city, Rocky & Carlos is a real local experience. (7)
From what we hear, breakfast at Brennan's is really
overpriced and you will be so full of high-fat food
that you won't want to eat for the rest of the day.
But go if you must. (8) I had a totally tasteless
crawfish po-boy at Johnny's. But people still say the
place is wonderful. ----- We're heading over to the
Quarter now for dinner so I'll add more later if I
think of it.
I haven't been to N.O. in a few years (I'm remedying
this next year) but I'm passionate about N.O. food,
and I have to say that Jim B. is steering you well. I
think you could easily skip all three brunches, but
agree that Commander's Palace is easily the best.
Court is a tourist trap.
I'd seriously consider taking one day and doing zero
traditional meals and sample some of the best dishes
New Orleans has to offer. A dream day for me might be:
1. A trip to Mother's for whatever looks best for
breakfast (debris sounds good).
2. Oysters at the Acme Oyster House.
3. A walk to Uglesich's for fried green tomatoes.
4. A stop at Galatoire's (easily the most charming
of the old-line restaurants) for what is possibly my
favorite single dish in N.O., the trout or pompano
amandine, that contains a meuniere sauce conceived in
heaven. I would never have tried this "tired" dish if
it weren't for the raves of Robert & Rima Collin in
their sadly out-of-print indispensable food guide to
New Orleans. The shrimp remoulade is also wonderful
here. (Note that there are no reservations, and a
jacket might still be mandatory for men, although this
seems to be loosening)
5. Bread pudding at Zachary's or Mr. B's Bistro.
6. Beignets and chicory coffee at Cafe Du Monde.
Such a day will let you walk over a good portion of
the city and you'll eat so much better than at
Antoine's or Brennan's.
I also agree that Bayona is the best of the new-
line restaurants. I especially like the salmon with
sauerkraut in gewurtztraminer sauce.
Regrettably, I've never been to Brigsten's, but
I've heard nothing but good things about it.
Have fun in New Orleans. It's hard not to.
re: Jim Leff
I didn't mean to use the word "tired" to refer to food
in general -- just to "trout amandine." For me,
"amandine" sauce has usually been a refuge for
restaurant scoundrels. It would never have occurred
to me to order it. But it's just superb at
Galatoire's (anything with the meuniere sauce is).
Have just read through all of the followups and
basically agree with everybody. The thing is, though,
you will not be able to eat all that food. Before we
lived here, when we used to visit, we had the same
problem. There just wasn't enough time and appetite to
eat at all the places we wanted to go. Pick out a few
high points for your reservations, then wing it
depending on how you feel for the rest. Don't kill
yourselves with jazz brunches every day.
I haven't been to New Orleans in a while, but I concur
with those who recommend Galatoire's over Antoine's.
Not only is the fish amandine divine, but the
old New Orleans atmosphere(ceiling fans,tiled floors,
white-coated waiters)is romantic and evocative. The
menu is old-fashioned, but I think that's what you're
there for. I prefer my oysters raw, but my ex-husband
flipped for the oysters Rockefeller. Galatoire's also
makes a mean martini. For po-boys, I think Casamento's
on Magazine Street is the best. All fried seafood is
delicious, and the steamed shrimp and crawfish are
luscious as well. Casamento's also has a gorgeous
tiled interior that reminded me of charcuteries in the
south of France (all blue and cream tile, bright and
clean). If you have time, try a muffuletta from the
Central Grocery in the Quarter-it's the world's best
Italian deli sandwich. Share it- it's HUGE, and take
home a jar of their delicious olive salad.
re: Martha Gehan
I just atelunch at Galatoire's today, and I had that
fabled trout amandine. Its fame escapes me -- a piece
of rather dry, tasteless fish, fried, topped with a LOT
of toasted almonds and some slightly garlicky butter.
After lunch I did a bit of research and found out it is
probably the speckled trout, a salt water fish that is
not a true trout, that they use, and which to me seems,
well, dry and tasteless. But the atmosphere is
definitely charming and Old New Orleans, and several in
our group ordered soft shelled crabs, which were
enormous, and can be broiled or grilled rather than
fried if you so request. And there are quite a few of
-hollandaise offerings on the menu, if you like that
sort of thing.
re: Dave Feldman
I don't think the fish was overcooked, I just think I
don't like speckled trout and the charm of the entire
dish escaped me. The menu doesn't say it's speckled
trout, just says trout, which to me means the much
smaller, sweeter, freshwater trout. But from now on
I'll be more alert when I see that word on a local
menu, since as somebody reminded me, we don't have a
source of freshwater trout locally, so why should the
restaurants fly it in when they have so much locally
Galatoire's also offers pompano with meuniere/amandine
sauces. The fish is just as good or better than the
trout, but I've always thought the sauce went better
with the trout.
I sure hope your experience was an aberration,
although Galatoire's has gone through some spotty
stretches in the 1970s and came back strong.
I hate to nitpick, but no restaurant, even
sweet cafes perched right on rushing Colorado
streams, has access to fresh river trout. 100
percent of the trout commercially available is
farmed trout. Which means that although the
trout at Galatoire's may not be local, it's
as local as it is anywhere else.
Personally, I've always loved the trout amandine
at Galatoire's. But an old-fashioned aesthetic
is definitely at work in the dish, which is a
living relic from the days when sauces were
designed to hide, rather than enhance, the
flavor of fish. The role of the trout here is
to provide crispness--oh, what crispness!--
rather than succulence.
Thank you all from the bottom of my
Thanks to your generous suggestions I'm confident I'll
be the best-fed visitor to the city. I've nixed quite a
few of the jazz brunches in favor of places like
Mother's, Central Grocery, and the Acme Oyster House
and I've restored Bayona to the list because Susan
Spicer and her salmon dish seem hard to resist. I'll
let you know if I encounter anything extra-delish...
I'm off to San Francisco for the Furth of July (believe
it or not I've been to California many times and never
made it to SF- I got a great deal on
Lowestfares.com and couldn't resist. You should check
their fares out..) and will be asking for suggestions
shortly after I re-read former posts....
Love and yummy things,