- Orik Mar 26, 2001 12:39 PM
"Excellent choice", said the waiter after I pointed out my selection of wine. I believe he had no idea of whether or not this was indeed an excellent wine, just that the price seemed high enough for him to replace our default wine glasses with better glassware. This was very representative of our dinner experience at Goodfellow's. The foie gras appetizer that goes for $18 does so only because it says "foie gras" and we all know that's expensive. However, when you get the dish and it contains well under an ounce of this delicacy, you feel you've been had (Describing the dish in great detail when it's on your plate getting cold also doesn't do much good for the overall experience).
Just for reference, a whole liver, averaging around 2 lb, costs $65 (retail). A similar dish with about twice as much liver goes for less at Blue Hill in manhattan and if someone would serve something like this for 175 Francs in Paris, I can assure you they would not stay in business very long. Although I am well aware of the pricing considerations in restaurants that go far beyond produce prices, I think this just crossed the fine line between survival and greed.
Other dishes we had were interesting and mostly very good, but there was a sense of amateurism I would not expect at these price levels. For example, one dish contained two pieces of breaded sweetbreads - one piece got ALL the pepper that was supposed to go into the breading, the other got none. The pheasant was slightly overcooked and the chef's starter was very spicy, to the point where you have to let your tastebuds calm down before you can appreciate the taste of the next dish.
All considered, I do not think Goodfellow's can be recommended and despite its creative touch, I'd rather spend my money at Aquavit or La Belle Vie.