114550 Tue Dec 23 02:19:45 -0800 2003 13 7 Chicago Area 0 623547 I am always happy to report that one of our fair city's temples of gustatory delight is still delivering the goods. Blackbird has always been a favorite of mine. Chef Paul Kahan, a supporter of the small farmer and artisanal producers has really matured and presides over one of our town's top tables. No gimmicks here (fighting fish or crystal staircases, etc.), just pure, elemental, seasonal cuisine. Co-proprietor Donnie Madea, floating effortlessly between Avec and Blackbird greeted us warmly and showed us to our table (the dude is slicker than ball bearings on a 10w-40w floor). We ordered a couple of glasses of the bubble (Billecart-Salmon) and by sip number two, an amuse bouche arrived.... a nubbin of seared, "wild" sea bass with a touch of faro and a dusting of black trumpet mushrooms in a buttery black trumpet essence. On to appetizers...my dining companion enjoyed seared, day boat scallops atop a brandade fritter (glass of Kuentz Bas Alsace Reserve to accompany) while I had a bit of crispy, skinned suckling pig (with a glass of rather Burgundian Pine Ridge "Dijon clones" chardonnay). One course down and we were already "mind-blowed"!!!!! Chef Paul then sent over two gratis orders of the foie gras special, seared on toasted brioche with huckleberry compote, crushed pistachios and bittersweet chocolate & red wine sauce (two complimentary glasses of a well matured Bonnezeaux were sent as well). Entrees were roasted quail with gingerbread stuffing, salsify and baby Brussels sprouts, while I tucked into beautiful, rare venison loin with a dice of fingerling taters and roasted cipollini onions in a venison demi-glace (a bottle of still tight, 2000 JL Chave Saint Joseph lubricated each bite). With some wine remaining we decided a bit of cheese was in order. My astute companion chose a Gorgonzola type Vermont cheese (the name escapes me) with amaretto syrup, blanched almonds and toasted fruit bread, while I savored some real, raw milk, mountain Vacherin (so ripe and runny it was served in a small bowl) with grilled peasant bread. Never one to pass on the cocoa bean, my friend ordered a wonderfully dense "Chocolate Marquise" and whole milk ice cream while I went for the whimsical buttermilk "donut holes" with date & orange ice cream and a bit of citrus pastry cream. (we shared glasses of rich Pedro Ximenez and a 1954 "Malvasia" Madeira). Seamless service was the paradigm throughout the meal. So how much for this fun and frolic....$285.00 which included a generous and well deserved gratuity. As someone who has dined throughout the World (a few French "trois etoiles" joints included) I consider this quite reasonable, if not a bargain. STP Tue Dec 23 02:19:45 -0800 2003 0 stirs-the-pot 1 623551 stirs-the-pot -- Great report with some wonderful writing. And how timely, too, as we'll be going to Blackbird tonight with the family. I'll be sure to keep in mind the items that you enjoyed. Btw, what's the secret to the gratis round of foie gras/accompanying wine? Do you know the chef/host? Was it a slow night? Or was it because you ordered four glasses of bubbly/wine within the first half-hour? Tue Dec 23 11:19:24 -0800 2003 623547 0 HungryHoward 2 623557 I've been a loyal patron since day one. Paul, Donnie and Rick (the 3rd partner) and a few servers have become friends. These guys run one hot joint with no pretense or attitude. It's all about the food (a hounds dream). Do try the sucking pig appetizer, it's far more complex than my brief description. Also, inquire about Paul's next "Salon Series" private dinner. It's a multi course menu with wine, a guest speaker and lively discussion....at around $100 it's quite an experience. Enjoy your meal. STP Tue Dec 23 11:58:34 -0800 2003 623551 0 stirs-the-pot 3 623560 Thanks for the follow up. I'll go with the suckling pig, based on your recommendation. Though it's tough to pass up a foie gras appetizer, I'll admit. Also, for entrees, would you side with the venison over the quail? Just checking... Tue Dec 23 12:30:25 -0800 2003 623557 0 HungryHoward 4 623570 Both were quite good, though I'd lean toward the venison. Other dishes that have pleased in the past are, any BB variation on lamb, or sturgeon w/ ox tail jus Don't pass on the cheese.... Tue Dec 23 15:04:18 -0800 2003 623560 0 stirs-the-pot 5 623595 .the accompaniments for each cheese are perfectly chosen. Why does everyone think it's so noisy, BTW? Can't wait to go back! Tue Dec 23 20:56:49 -0800 2003 623570 0 peg 5 623618 STP -- Well, suffice it to say that Blackbird delivered on all cylinders last night. While the room itself wasn't hopping (what does one expect two days from Christmas), the service, food and wines were all top-notch. Thanks again for your recommendations. Instead of a step-by-step reporting, a few brief comments: Starters -- Of the six diners, four ordered starters and there wasn't an empty bowl/plate afterwards. Dishes ordered included west coast mussel soup, salad of endives, seared maine diver scallops and, with your recommendation, the crispy suckling pig, which was wonderful. Entrees -- I relayed your recommendations (lamb, venison, quail, sturgeon) to the group in advance of their orders. As it happens, we almost ordered exclusively off that list. Three diners enjoyed the lamb, and then there was quail, trout and, for me, the delicious venison, prepared a bit too rare in the center, but enjoyable nonetheless. Wiines -- We stayed within California, ordering two bottles of Grgich Hills Chardonnay (2000) and a bottle of Jordan Cabernet (1999). While I've had the family-favorite Grgich too many times to count, the Jordan was quite good once we gave it time to breathe a little. Service -- Very focused and attentive on delivering a superior experience. Misc -- We sat towards the back of the restaurant just adjacent to the kitchen. Nice location to take in the events in the kitchen, and at the same time, not pressed up against the banquet seperated by other tables by a mere 8 inches. Afterwards we walked next door to enjoy a nightcap at avec. I enjoyed a single espressor while others went with selections from the wine list. In all, I'd have to put Blackbird at the top of restaurants in this category (MK, NoMI, Naha, Kevin, Spring), and look forward to returning soon again. Wed Dec 24 09:58:55 -0800 2003 623570 0 HungryHoward 6 624165 Any thoughts on Grace? I believe the two Restaurants are next door to each other. Mon Jan 12 07:54:42 -0800 2004 623618 0 Mike in the Woods 7 624203 Grace has been closed for a couple years. dKelly is now in its place. Wed Feb 04 09:43:18 -0800 2004 624165 0 HungryHoward 3 623561 Nice post, STP, and given my excellent experience with Avec, I guess I need to put Blackbird high on the to-do list (before or after Spring, I know not). If I drop your name will I get comp Foie Gras, too? But, seriously, do you think the Salon Series is a good start, or just a regular meal? Any way to find out about the series without going to the resto (it being a haul from N'ville just to ask a question)? thanks, d Tue Dec 23 12:32:04 -0800 2003 623557 0 dickson d 4 623569 No name dropping please...... A nice way to get acclimatized to BB is to go for lunch, while the selections are not as broad or preparations as intricate, the prices are quite reasonable and there are some rather tasty salad and sandwich options. Salon or "just" dinner....well it all depends how much control over your meal you require. At the SS all of your menu and wine choices are pre-planned by Chef Paul (it is also quite pleasing to share a meal with 20 or so like minded strangers). Dinner on your own allows you to run the gamut of the menu. You can visit their website or just give them a call regarding future SS dinners. STP Link: http://www.blackbirdrestaurant.com/ Tue Dec 23 14:59:08 -0800 2003 623561 0 stirs-the-pot 1 623567 I think the place is way over priced and your review proved it. The place is also too loud. Your review was self laudatory with the complimentary dishes and all. Not recommended. Tue Dec 23 14:19:22 -0800 2003 623547 0 Slinger 2 623573 Sorry you feel that way, there's a wonderful (and cheap) hamburger joint about a block North at Lake & Des Plaines Perhaps it will be more to your liking..... Enjoy Tue Dec 23 15:14:14 -0800 2003 623567 0 stirs-the-pot 3 623574 Hey Mister, I'm not cheap as you infer. I'm reasonable and able to pay any amount I desire. I find it to be overpriced for the loud room and good but not exceptional food. Why do you smugly suggest a hamburger place to me? We are discussing fine restaurants in Chicago. Tue Dec 23 15:25:08 -0800 2003 623573 0 Slinger