110159 Thu Dec 13 00:20:41 -0800 2001 12 7 Chicago Area 0 594308 I've been surrounded of late by old guide books. On the radiator behind me, on the sliding board that comes out of the desk, in piles on the floor, intermingling with actual work. I want to write about them, but I have not quite figured out what to say. Let me get this out of the way, Rene, since I seem to have just about every guide book/food book on Chicago, I surely have the Rohde's Good but Cheap Chicago Resturant Book. You are more than welcome to borrow it in exchange for bringing either some Lem's ribs or Ramova chili to Oak Park. Good but Cheap was chowhound back when computers were still programed with FORTRAN. A lot of the places we talk about today are mentioned in this book. For instance Hamburger King, subject of a recent write up by me is described, "not for gourmets, but amogst greasy spoons, it has no peers." Manny's is listed as one of their favorites. Rene would be happy to know that several Hungarian places are mentioned including Magyar Czardar. In addition, a lot of places that we should talk about: Hackney's, Maller Building Coffee Shop, Svea, Frances' are written up. Because the emphasis is on cheap classics, this book seems to have a bit more relevance than other old books. For a different set of resturant ideas, there is Captive City, a 1969 expose, reporting "the startling truth about Chicago." An "anti-social registrar" of mobsters comes with as an appendix. For each outfit member, you get his "frequents". As you may imagine, many Cicero, Elmwood Park, and Melrose Park spas frequented. Tom's Steakhouse, noted in chowhound last week, also made Captive Chicago. Not only do I have Dennis McCarthy's Great Chicago Bar Guide (1978), but I have the 1986 revision. Perhaps because older is always has more value, I like the first version better. In the second book, he shows more scholastic pretentions, with various mini-essays, including this warning on saftey, "Be Cool." I like the fact that in the first edition, he names the propietors of the bars, so if you want a free drink, you know who to ask. You also learn that Otto's Beer House is run by someone named Stellatello (and that contray to what I alway's tell Ms. VI, Scottie Pippen has no relationship to Pippin's Tavern). The earlier book is also just plain more interesting. There are write-ups of the Midget Bar and the Deaf Club and a great sounding pool hall at 4100 N. Lincoln (area sound familiar). Another bar book I have is Dr. Nigh Life's Chicago. Rick Kogan's paen to his own drinking prowess. The conversational alter ego thing between Rick and Dr. Night Life grates, and the book rekes of insiderness. Mostly, I like the chapter where Rick get's utterly plastered with Irwin Shaw. It was a better world when our famous authors and hack newspapermen could actually drink the reported 11 jack daniels, 2 bottles of wine, and 2 navy groggs each. A book that's all together mundane, but extremely well done is Chicago Magazine's 1983 "Guide to Chicago". The book is very Rene like in that they go nearly business by business in some neighborhoods, describing resturants, bars, and shops. Moreover, they do not limit themselves to the standard tourist paths. Bridgeport/Canaryville, Pilsen, Albany Park, Uptown, all get mentioned. Anne Spiselman, my favorite resturant critic, acted as principal writer/researcher for the book. Her hand is evident in the many obscure ethnic resturants listed. Oh, for a revision! Jory Graham's Chicago: an extraordinary guide (1967)was mentioned by someone in my last posting. I dug around and I realized I had that too. There are several resturant listings, but not a lot of character in the reviews. I do like the fact that you learn that the Shanghai resurant at 406 S. Clark is really a filipino place. Also, there are listings for "Men's Grill's" at Wiebolts and Carson's, something you will not find in latter guide books. I've got so many more I could write about. There's Ian Flemming's (yes the Bond guy) bit on Chicago as part of his "thrilling cities" around the world tour (ca. early 60's) and Vittles and Vice, a summary of near north hot spots from ten years earlier. Kup's Chicago (1962), covers plenty of chow, with extensive reporting on Fritzels. Nice to know he was already an icon in 62. A Sherman Kaplan collection (1983) gives no resturant a rating below 16/20 rating and has Ann Sather and Le Francis tied for the best places. I mentioned before that the earliest Chicago food book I own is John Drury's Dining in Chicago (1937). The only resturant I can find in that book that still exists today is Berghoff. It's interesting to note, that in 1937, Chicago was already known for its ethnic resturants. His reviews span the globe, noting that Arabian, , Japanese, Turkish and Mexican places had established themselves in Chicago along with Chinese, French, Italian and Jewish places. Drury also reviews the counter at Walgreens. Finally, let me add a couple of other interesting books. These books are of menu reproductions not of resturant reviews. One is the Menu Guide to Chicago from 1977. The other is Chicago Magazine's 100 Menu's from 1986. What was eaten at a particular time is more interesting than what someone said about what was eaten at a particilar time. The Chicago Magazine book has special appeal because 1986 was smack dab in the middle of the nouvelle cusine explosion, so you have such forgotten gems as Jimmy's Place duck sausage with raspberry vinegar sauce. What really vexes me, however, is that the menu for Nick's Fishmarket includes steak ala Nick the Greek, an item no longer carried at Nicks. For years I have wanted to know what his was, but have yet to find an answer. I hope some of you got a kick out of this book report on books. The libary never closes at vital information. Good night Rob Thu Dec 13 00:20:41 -0800 2001 0 Vital Information 1 594309 I used to be a semi-regular at the pool hall at 4100 N. Lincoln; it was upstairs from Douglas TV, and was not advertised except by an Old Style sign over a single door that looked into a long straight flight of steps up. It had a pool hall on the south (pointed) end, a bar in the middle (at the head of the stairs) and a bowling alley on the north end (maybe 8-10 lanes). It was not possible to bowl there (except once when I attended a party where the whole place was rented out, shortly before the place closed, say latter part of the 1980s) because it was completely subscribed by local leagues. The pool hall was a great place, you rented tables by the hour, which made it a very comfortable place for women. They had ordinary bar food, but took care with it. I seem to remember they had those nut machines that actually had hot roasted nuts in them that were dispensed into little paper cups. The remake of the color of money (Paul Newman and Tom Cruise) used it as a location. Just the interior stairwell. It always had a very mixed, mostly local crowd, from when the neighborhood was a lot more diverse. Alas, it is now condos-to-be. Thu Dec 13 01:02:25 -0800 2001 594308 0 annieb 2 594323 North Center Billiards! That was a great place. Although never quiet - the blaring TV soap operas in the afternoon, the repetitve juke box occasionally spouting "All Shook Up" or "Jose Cuervo" without warning - could sometimes get on my nerves. But still by far the most comfortable place to shoot pool on decent tables in the area. So my question is, have you found a good place to play pool in the wake of the demise of North Center? I haven't. Thu Dec 13 13:19:26 -0800 2001 594309 0 Harry V. 3 594328 Alas, no, I am no longer a pool player not having a liking for coin-op machines/bar atmosphere, nor the upscale yuppie billiards places. I have heard that Chris's Billiards on Milwaukee near Wilson is a similar place, and have been curious about Marie's Golden Cue on Montrose west of Kedzie, which I pass often. Thu Dec 13 16:50:56 -0800 2001 594323 0 annieb 4 594329 Thanks. Chris's has no liquor license. It is a huge, charmless, rather unfriendly place, consisting of three large rooms. The two back rooms are awful barns where horrible top-40 music is played at ear-splitting levels, filled with bored teenagers. If you are not a regular at Chris's they will try to stick you in one of these back rooms. The main room, in front, is only a little better. There is no music playing and it feels more like a pool hall. However, the fluorescent lighting is still ugly, and this room is generally filled with rough characters who are playing for anything but amusement. One expects a fight to break out at any time (and I have seen one or two there). All in all, Chris's is not worth the trip out there. Marie's is a hair better. The room is a long rectangle with tables squeezed too closely together in two long rows - there's little elbow room. As with Chris's, horrible jukebox music is played incredibly loud at all times. The house-supplied cues are plastic abominations - the only way to play with a genuine wood cue at Marie's is to bring your own. Marie's does not have any liquor. However, I would say that Marie's is slightly friendlier than Chris's. Thu Dec 13 18:49:00 -0800 2001 594328 0 Harry V. 1 594310 By the way, VI, do any of your old guidebooks mention some of the old bars with german lunch (what they call in Iowa noon lunch) in the Lakeview Lincoln Square area? I remember particularly a couple of places--not the names--one on Southport just south of Addison that had the best potato salad, and another on Damen just north of either Addison or Roscoe, that I think is now called the silver something or other. While I'm not sure I would want a diet of pure schnitzel, I'm not sure what has replaced them, at least in those neighborhoods, is an improvement. They survived generations because the "regulars" ate there probably 3-5 times a week. Thu Dec 13 01:11:46 -0800 2001 594308 0 annieb 2 594332 Annie, I looked thru Good and Cheap for the German lunch places (I doubt such a place would be in the other books). I did not find anything at or near the addresses you listed. I did find the following: - Continental Delight - 3757 W. Fullerton: "...thick, juicy knatwurst...an unusual tasting potato salad..." - Link's Family Circle Deli - 5157 W. Addison: "A gorgeous, gleaming grocery/deli...choice of several good side salads including a tangy german potato salad" - Muencher Hof - 3700 N. Clark (Yum-Yum Donuts?) "A soulful family run german tavern" [No mention of potato salad] John Drury's 1937 book does not have anything like what you describe, but there are about 8 German places featured. Among them are the Red Star Inn, which many might remember from their buses to Chicago Stadium and their sign by the highway and the Lincoln Turner Cafe (now home to the Lincoln Park Athletic Club). BTW, is the place you were thinking of on Southport, Zum Deutchen Eck (or however it's spelled). A faux Bavarian lounge that only has been closed a couple of years. rg Thu Dec 13 22:36:10 -0800 2001 594310 0 Vital Information 3 594334 Thanks for looking. No, it was not Zum Deutchen Eck (I learned the grid early and am pretty reliable on my north side cross streets). Apparently places of this type were too numerous to be remarked upon when your guidebooks were written, although they were becoming scarce in the mid-seventies to mid-eighties when I ate at them. They were just neighborhood bar/restaurants, and the regulars (read older men) depended on them for food. Podlanka on Division/Ashland/Milwaukee is similar; when I first started going there they had "board" plans written up in polish behind the bar--14 or 21 meals a week. You could also go behind the service counter at the back (south) end of the restaurant into the bar that used to be next door (which had a great tile job of brown and white with semispheric brown and white eyeball tiles at every corner) to either order a drink to bring back to have with your dinner, or take your dinner with you and eat in the bar. I've always loved Podlanka. It's the only Polish restaurant I know where you can get good Irish food--boiled beef, boiled potatoes, and horseradish sauce. Fri Dec 14 00:18:05 -0800 2001 594332 0 annieb 2 594338 My favorite German potato salad was from Kuhn's Delicatessen in the same general neighborhood. It used to be around 2900 N. Lincoln, before it followed the migration of it's clientele up to the northwest suburbs (I think it's now in Deerfield.) This was a wonderful place that throbbed with smells, sounds, and temptation at every counter, and would put to shame any of the newer food emporiums that think they know what stimulate the senses. And just like at the current Meyer's up in Lincoln Square, the service people never, ever cracked a smile. I really miss the pulse of that place though. joel Fri Dec 14 09:41:45 -0800 2001 594310 0 joel 2 594578 It’s not one of the ones you’re thinking of but all I can come up with is Hogen’s, formerly at 4560 N Lincoln. Says McCarthy in 1978: "The Hogen family has had the place for some 30 years, and it remains a fine place to go. Half the room is a restaurant where dirt-cheap German plates are served. Each day of the week a different menu is featured with simple, good food. The bar is paneled, clean, and hearty. Neighborhood drinkers drink here, and the banter can get loud and robust." I can’t remember what the renovated place is called but, Annie, I think it might be painful for you to look inside the old Hogen’s now. These days, most of the Polish buffets and many of the restaurants offer a weekly meal plan, still advertised by a hand written card (in Polish) by the register or in the window. Places like Red Apple, Congress, Staropolska, in addition to Podhalanka. Then there’s Sak’s Ukrainian Village Restaurant (2301 W Chicago) with its little dining room behind the bar room. It’s been spiffed up quite a bit recently, and is not all that cheap anymore, but remains a good place. Wed Jan 02 00:49:01 -0800 2002 594310 0 Rene G 1 594577 I hope at least a few other people enjoyed your post about old guide books as much as I did. Thanks for the offer of the Rohde book. I lent my copy ages ago and haven’t looked at it for many years. I’m surprised to hear Magyar Csarda is listed. I didn’t think I’d heard of it before. Some ribs or chili should be no problem. Or maybe some jerk from Tropic Island on 79th? You’ve described Dr Night Life very well. I also find it slightly annoying but not without interest. I had completely forgotten the part with Irwin Shaw. By the way, they finished the night at Don the Beachcomber with THREE Navy Grogs, not two. I think Kogan might be upset if you didn’t give him credit for every last drink. Another you didn’t mention, but probably have, is Paul Camp’s 1986 collection of reviews. Camp was the Tribune’s restaurant reviewer in the ‘80s and does a very competent job with his reviews. Most of the restaurants are the "safe choices" though he does favorably review Lem’s (Lem’s seems to be a long-time favorite of the Tribune). I wasn’t in Chicago when many of these restaurants were open and so have no firsthand knowledge of them. It’s odd though how dreary a lot of these once-hot places sound. I don’t regret having missed most of them. I wonder how many of the current crop of trendy restaurants will evoke the same response in 15 or 20 years. One place that Camp reviews makes me laugh: Abati’s on Walton, Home of the Flamed Pizza. They would bring the cooked pizza to the table then douse it with alcohol and set it ablaze. Thankfully that’s one trend that died a quick death. I’m very curious, does anyone remember Abati’s? I hadn’t heard of Vittles and Vice (Patricia Bronté, 1952) before and was very surprised to find a copy (signed, w/dj!) at a local used book store a couple days ago. Only had time to glance at it so far but am looking forward to reading it. I don’t own a copy, but have looked at the Drury book (Dining in Chicago, 1931). It’s really a remarkable guide and very well written. Unlike many early guidebooks (and some recent ones, come to think of it) he truly gives you a feel for the establishment and its food. Wed Jan 02 00:46:21 -0800 2002 594308 0 Rene G 2 594606 Thanks, it's nice to know someone else shares your obsession... Of course I have the Paul Camp book. Does yours feature a segment of the "G" resturants glued in the back, apparantly forgotten in the proof? It's what every law student knows as the pocket part. I liked Camp's macho school of resturant reviewing, especially his butch alter-ego McCann. I believe the anthology misses his spirit. What happened to Camp anyway. At least he could write a review a week!!!!! I have tons of stuff I left off my write-up, mainly because there's nothing unique about them per se. I tried tonight to find my WPA Illinois book to see if that had any food stuff, but I cannot seem to find it. I did run accross a neat, totally non-food book. It's called This is Chicago edited by Albert Halper. A collection of famous Chicago bits from all of our famous writers. Not just the novelists, Farrell, Algren, Richard Wright, but all sorts of other prose: Meyer Levin, Louis Armstrong, Ring Lardner, Jane Adams and even Rick Kogans papa, Herman (with long time partner Lloyd Wendt). rg Wed Jan 02 20:15:20 -0800 2002 594577 0 Vital Information 3 594655 You know what happened to Paul Camp? I think he moved on to edit Zagat! Looks like his mainstream taste in restaurants served him well. Yeah, my copy of his book also has the pasted-in "G" section. "This is Chicago" has lots of great stuff but little about restaurants. Don’t have it at hand but I think there’s an interesting section on Billy Boyle’s Chop House and their special menu (with wildly inflated prices) used to discourage people Boyle didn’t like (such as blacks). Also not at hand but far as I remember the WPA Guide doesn’t contain anything about restaurants. Interesting book though. Have you seen Nelson Algren’s food book (America Eats or something like that)? Apparently Louis Szathmary (of The Bakery) bought an old Algren WPA manuscript and had it published. I saw a copy in a used book store last year and am kicking myself for not buying it when I had the chance. I’ll try to post more on this topic but it’s going to take some time to get it together. Two really interesting book, both from 1955, are "Francois Pope’s Gourmet Dining Guide" and "Dining in Chicago" by The Restauranteurs. Pope was "television’s leading culinary artist" and broadcast out of Chicago beginning in 1950. Bet those would be interesting shows to look at now. He seems a bit pompous and much of his guide leaves a lot to be desired but there are some great details about some long-gone restaurants. The book by The Restauranteurs (whoever they were) is very good and even includes menus from each of the 75 or so places reviewed. Thu Jan 03 23:31:34 -0800 2002 594606 0 Rene G