http://www.chow.com/boards/58 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:51:22 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://www.chow.com/topics/666994#5207866 Thank you for the correction. I meant grated pecorino. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 18:41:53 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666994#5207866 http://www.chow.com/topics/656328#5207236 Hi Maya: In Bologna, try this place: http://www.osteriadellorsa.com/ Super cheap place, zero attitude for small orders. A few small tables and two large communal ones. Very friendly but busy and student-y; aim to arrive just as they open at noon. We ate there a couple of times; not earth-shattering food, but a sustaining and pleasant experience. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 14:43:18 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/656328#5207236 http://www.chow.com/topics/668729#5206859 I am blushing! I'd just add that I would go higher at La Pergola and that category under certain circumstances -- you had a lot of different wines or a lot of special treatment or something of the sort. And if at all possible leave the tip in cash. Some places may say they can't put the tip on the credit card, and you should believe them. You cannot imagine the fiscal difficulties, rules, etc., people live with. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:46:50 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668729#5206859 http://www.chow.com/topics/667753#5206854 Hassler, since you ask. And even though you didn’t: Colosseum :-) Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:39:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667753#5206854 http://www.chow.com/topics/669689#5206843 After a busy 2009 season we are taking advantage of autumn mid-week days without houseguests to explore new aspects of Piedmont. The mission this week was part of our ongoing hunt for organic and traditional Barolo wineries, followed by lunch at some nice little trattorie off the Internet trail. Accordingly we started in Barolo town at Cantina Giacomo Borgogno, a venerable winery who has been there since 1761. Borgogno has just this year built a new tasting facility and over-the-ground premises, the cellars date back to early 1900’s, although renovated several times of course. Modern equipment is used for the fermentation process, but the aging is all done for at least 3 years in traditional big barrels from four to eight thousand litres in size, not one barrique in the cellar! The winery puts aside a large reserve of older vintages (their Barolo Riserva is only sold after 10 years of aging) and it was fascinating for me to stand see a bin full of 1961 bottles, selling for over 500 euro each (my first Barolo I ever had was a 1961, for which I paid less then $10 a bottle in 1980). Wonderful Barolo wines, we tasted the 1998 and 2004 vintages, not quite as intense as the Barolo’s of yore, but still worthy of the name. After the tasting we decided to skip the more famous restaurants and chose the Osterie “da Gemma” listed in Slow Food’s book in the little town of Rodino, between Monforte and Serralunga – the price looked good after spending the winter’s entire budget in Barolo! The outside of the restaurant was very low key, and not terribly inviting, but going up the stairs we found a new dining room with picture window views over the Alte Langhe (or would have been if it hadn’t been a foggy day). Very nice and crisp linen on the tables, but still a rustic touch. At one o’clock on a weekday the place was quite full, mostly locals, even some painters in their overalls, definitely not a foreigner in site. The menu was fixed, and as we sat down a couple of chunks of salami (one crudo, one cotto) on a cutting board with a knife appeared with the bread for us to slice ourselves (is this what they call an amuse-bouche?). No wine list, everyone was drinking the house Dolcetto in an unlabelled bottle (5 euro), but after those Barolo’s we needed something a bit more substantial and selected a 2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba by Teo Cappellano (another venerable Barolo name) from the wine shelf. The first anti-pasti course consisted of two generous portions, an insalata russa, a bit like egg mayonnaise sandwich spread with peas (in November?), the other an insalata di carne cruda for meat lovers like Rina who pronounced it great. Tim told them that he didn’t eat red-meat and so they brought a plate of fresh-made agnolloti al plin, stuffed with spinach. It was nothing new, but absolutely fresh and delicious, obviously made in their kitchen (how fresh we were to discover a bit later). Rina’s next anti-pasto was vitello tonnato. Living in Piedmont, what can we say about vitello tonnato? Delicate thin slices of veal with tuna sauce, for serious foodies it’s always a question about the combination, but somehow they work very well together. The next dishes up were the tajarin (tagliatelle), plain for Tim (no problem, it was fresh and delicious with a touch of parmigiano (not really needed), and tajarin al ragu for Rina. Everyone has their own way of cooking ragu, which is basically mincemeat and tomato sauce, most common, however Gemma definitely had her own style and Rina ate the whole dish! This was followed by a ravioli al ragu for Rina, the same sauce from the pasta. As a second the server asked us if we would like Rabbit or Chicken and proposed a cheese plate for Tim, however we did plump for the chicken – which was definitely not the plump-buttery variety, a touch of toughness in the meat indicated free-range, confirmed by our waitress as pollo della compagna, however quite delicious and accompanied with finocchio cotto (stewed fennel) which Tim thought was quite nice as an accompaniment. We had seen an incredible range of deserts circulating our neighbor’s tables, including the biggest Bunet we had ever seen; a whole dinner plate’s worth, which instantly explained the English translation of “bonnet”, and which you cut yourself as much as you wanted. Rina is not a glutton for sweets, but Tim insisted in the name of science that we try them all. Besides the Bunet, which was delicious, firm and mouth-melting, there was dolce all'ananas – more like a tiramisù with pineapple - OK but not mind-blowing, a meringata, a sort of pudding with crisp meringue – Tim had two helpings and a strudel, which we were just too full to eat. Sadly they did not have any passito wine by the glass. After chatting to our neighbouring table, 2 men from Torino having a “business lunch” which included grappa to fortify them for the hours drive back; we collected the bill, a numbing 40-euro for the food including table charge and coffee, plus 15 euro for the wine. They did give us a discount for Tim’s “vegetarian plate”, normally its 25 euro each for the set, but for the amount and quality of the food, you could not beat it. On the way out we asked to thank Gemma in person and were directed to a room on the ground floor, where we found the equivalent of the Rodino ladies pasta-bee all busy making up the fresh pasta. Gemma was chopping the taglioni by hand, and the others were preparing the agnolotti. Rina got an impromptu hands on lesson in making the Agnolotti al plin (literally pinched), mini-ravioli’s made by holding a spoonful of the filling in the left hand, and a table knife in the right, using the tip to transfer the fillings onto the edge of a flat sheet of pasta, rolling over the edge, pinching the individual packets and then cutting. No wonder it all tasted so fresh. After this we stopped to say hello to our friends the Rivetto family at “Rivetto dal 1902” winery near Serralunga, some more wine tastings, and they told us that actually the menu at “da Gemma” is always the same, so it’s a one-off restaurant to visit, but we highly recommend it as a real local osterie for visitors touring Barolo valley. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:23:56 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669689#5206843 http://www.chow.com/topics/669265#5206640 When we were in Rome last month, we had our last meal of the trip at Trattoria Monti - the cuisine was very fine , the handsome young men in the front of the house pleasant but our meal left a bad taste despite some excellent dishes - we definitely felt the burden of being onetime visitors and non-Italian speakers, which manifested in not receiving the menu of the day (they gave us an english standard menu - I had to go out in front of the restaurant to see what the day's dishes were (I guess they may have thought we didnt care, or couldnt handle a recitation, since all of the printed menus were in English) - getting served LONG after everyone else, not getting all the dishes we had ordered (they didnt bring either the flan I had ordered as an appetizer or the puntarelle salad) and getting a reduced wine pour on by the glass wines. The crowd there was convivial and Im sure if we had made a repeat visit our treatment would have gotten much better, but it was our last day in rome and what I had hoped would be a peak experience turned out to be a bit of a depressing disappointment. It you do go their ravioli dish with the egg yolk is particularly delicious. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 04:04:27 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669265#5206640 http://www.chow.com/topics/612761#5204978 They just got their first Michelin star! I must admit I am biased because my friend is the chef, but had three of the best meals of my life there. Pic here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/squidish/sets/72157608152729612/ or just search Glass Hostaria on flickr. Buon appetito! Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:29:40 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/612761#5204978 http://www.chow.com/topics/669510#5204937 This is an intriguing restaurant that several good friends were taken to by food obsessed Vicenzans who have spent years searching for obscure treasures unknown by even the Italian press. This is a mother and daughter's private home with about 20 to 25 seats in several rooms including a table in the kitchen. They go to the market everyday and cook what they find. There is no menu, no choice. You are served what they want to serve you. Additionally, they source from neighboring farms. Perhaps what is most intriguing is the friends who told me about this have eaten at all of the three Michelin stars in Italy and many of the one and two. They are very sophisticated. They insist that in its own way Filippetto is easily as good as any other. Now the negative: the mother and daughter are very eccentric, do not speak English and will only accept a reservation if the caller speaks Italian. There is absolutely nothing on the internet although if you google Trattoria Filippetto Creazzo you will pull up its address and telephone number. Has anyone been? We will go next spring. Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:13:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669510#5204937 http://www.chow.com/topics/669338#5204727 I agree with Zerlina and with Sid's suspicions. Having purchased BG this past May, I would caution against following its many disappointing suggestions. Cadogan Guide was far better, far more consistent and far more informative. La Sagrestia is better known for everyday pizza but not much else (Sid, as you know, very good pizza in Rome is elsewhere). Fortunato offers outside seating which, in the afternoon, if in the vicinity of the Pantheon is a much better option than Sagrestia. Fortunato is far more expensive but in a pleasant location with better selections. You know, of course, Chowhounders preference for Armando. Degli Amici is indeed in a pleasant location but food is only average. Roscioli does have dining tables in the rear of the shop (front is an upscale food & wine market) - food is creative and nicely done but I found it disconcerting w/ market shoppers and tourists wandering round your table in a very cramped spot. Roscioli Forno's pizza carryout down the street had terrific baked goods (breads and pizza slices). Forget Matriciano - not worth side tripping for this even if you are in the Vatican neighborhood. Montecarlo - your intuition is spot on, pass. I was unenthusiastic with Al Ceppo. The room is nice, others love it, they indeed grill meats and Michelin forks are awarded but, my opinion here, the trek to Parioli is not worth the requisite time, energy and effort. I have not tried Dithrambo but three Romans in the Campo area, including our landlady (we had an apartment off the Campo) were decidedly indifferent, claiming it was either a tourist trap or a spot they would not bother to go to. On the other hand, many glowing comments are posted on CH and its highlighted in all the guide books. BTW, Sid I found your past posts to be informative and helpful in compiling our list of restaurants in May. Thank you for you sharing your past suggestions here. Tue, 24 Nov 2009 14:31:10 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669338#5204727 http://www.chow.com/topics/599645#5201679 Sheraton Diana Majestic Yguana Le Biciclette Bon appetit! Mon, 23 Nov 2009 12:50:22 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/599645#5201679 http://www.chow.com/topics/667055#5201505 Nothing more to say, we're back in Rome now....leaving for US and home tomorrow. All I can say, is bring your appetite and enthurisam...it is a beautiful experience.....also, remember it's cold up there....bring warm clothes for the nighttime. Mon, 23 Nov 2009 07:26:58 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667055#5201505 http://www.chow.com/topics/658967#5200333 This is like the blind men at the elephant: each has a point. For one night in Rome, anybody can walk from the Pantheon to via Frattina. It's not that far. BUT if I had one night in Rome I wouldn’t spend it at Palatium. and yet, I believe it (usually) has excellent food (despite a shoe-leather saltimbocca I had once) with unusually good ingredients. The service was probably less truly snooty than inept. Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:18:58 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/658967#5200333 http://www.chow.com/topics/585282#5199910 Thoughts from May 09 are here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/619246 Search IndyMac's suggestions as she and Maureen Fant are spot on. Not Trastevere but...excellent meals at Colline Emiliane, Piperno and Capranica (three Michelin forks and a new, very creative chef). If children in tow, forget Capranica. I really do mean all three were terrific. La Piazzetta has a generous lunch buffett with considerable veggies (rare in Rome) - nice spot if you are touring in that vicinity and want to avoid the usual heavy menu choices. Dal Bolognese was surprisingly good for Sunday lunch. Specialty food stores, of course, Volpetti and Rosciolis. Armando is pleasant but I just can't buy into the food raves. Several meals were just okay. Location and staff make it worthwhile (and they offer traditional Roman dishes on the menu). BTW, San Crispino was a major disappointment. Several visits produced the worst gelato we had in Rome. A number of Romans echoed that sad verdict. Far better gelato options elsewhere. Skip it. Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:23:44 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/585282#5199910 http://www.chow.com/topics/668856#5198683 First of all thank you for the Venice advise. We ended up having an amazing meal at Alle Trestiere. I had Beetroot Gnocchetti with Swordfish and tomato which was the best dish i've in 2 months in Italy (except for the chicken at the place in Florence, whats it called agian?) Now I have more questions. We have 2-3 weeks in December to fill. We have been doing so much traveling in the north that we are hoping to find a place in the south to stay for a while. When I say the south I mean Napoli and down! We are looking for some kind of experience that includes food/cooking/farming, etc. Maybe a workstay at an agritourismo, or maybe some cooking courses in Puglia, or staying on a farm in Sicily. I know I sound completely vague but we are really open to going anywhere and doing pretty much anything! We have a few leads but I thought I would ask the experts. We are both trained chefs so of course food is our main hobby so anything that fits loosely into the "food" category, we are all ears! And just for fun here are some eating highlites of our last 2 months: -The sandwhich stand in the middle of the market in Florence with the big pots of meat and tripe and bits that are chopped up and put on a bun with chili and salsa verde. I had 1 every day we were in Florence -The place with the Chicken dish in Florence that I mentioned above, I'm sorry I forget the name and I lost the business card! but this chicken is ridiculous! -Tortellini in Brodo at Cesari in Bologna. On a cold rainy day there is nothing better. -Braised Veal cheek with Porcini mushrooms in Alba at a restaurant called Lalibera -Bigoli with donkey ragu at Osteria al Duomo in Verona -Tagliatelle with ragu at Trattoria Gianni in Bologna -Tuna sandwhiches in our hotel room 2 nights ago in Verona -Fritto Misto in Vernazza. -A Chinese restaurant in Padova that was actually very good. We come from Vancouver, and we know our steamed dumplings! -Nocciola Gelato at the place in the piazza in San Gimignano There a a few. Its all a blurr!!!! Too much food, too much food!!! Sat, 21 Nov 2009 20:42:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668856#5198683 http://www.chow.com/topics/668045#5196420 My I ask...is it proper to tip the docent on this type of tour? Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:23:37 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668045#5196420 http://www.chow.com/topics/668568#5196099 i'd love to know if anyone has eaten here and what they think about this restaurant. it doesn't turn up much on lists...but it might fit the bill after a long day at the vatican (from an early morning scavi tour through the vatican museum in the afternoon). we're new yorkers who like a warm comfortable bistro/restaurant - no fussy upscale but great food is important. thanks for your input. Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:02:43 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668568#5196099 http://www.chow.com/topics/666527#5195864 agree wtth summer - dont put on cheese unless offered by the waiter. The waiter will bring you cheese if it is a normal accompaniment to the dish. there are plenty of dishes that combine fish or seafood with cheese or other dairy, from seafood lasagnas to the spaghetti with anchovies and cheese we just had in Naples.. its just not appropriate for every dish Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:22:19 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666527#5195864 http://www.chow.com/topics/666055#5195759 I don't know when you were last in Volterra, and I agree it does get the numbers of tourists as most of the other places you mentioned, but I think it may have surpassed Arezzo as a go-to hilltown. It's fame has spread as a place worth visiting. Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:24:08 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666055#5195759 http://www.chow.com/topics/605395#5195747 Thanks! Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:59:00 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/605395#5195747 http://www.chow.com/topics/642473#5193358 This was actually the second time this restaurant pulled this stunt. The first time we waited. This time at 11PM we left. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:06:57 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/642473#5193358 http://www.chow.com/topics/666191#5192876 Just couple of other comments: the Rialto is definitely the best market to shop for all types of food but every neighborhood will have markets, bakeries, etc. Venice is very compact; unless you on the outer eastern part of Castello, it is easy to get around and shop. Our apartment is in San Polo, conveniently near the Rialto where we do most of our food shopping. If you choose an apartment in another neighborhood, consider posting again and you'll get some good ideas and recommendations. As for the cost of food, it compares to what we pay in the US (probably a little more, taken in the account of the current weak dollar); certain things such as olive oil, wine, pasta, bottle water, cheeses are cheaper, while other such as paper product, dry goods, flour/sugar are more expensive. Good wild seafood is very expensive in where we live, therefore, it compares favorably with what we pay in Venice. If you buy seafood to cook, don't skimp on freshness and pass on the farmed varieties. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:45:54 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666191#5192876 http://www.chow.com/topics/668001#5192602 we are really lucky to have some locals posting on this board but its mostly tourist oriented - no comparison to Toronto (if it was, the discussion would be in Italian Id imagine!) Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:33:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668001#5192602 http://www.chow.com/topics/668075#5191370 My wife and I spent a part of our honeymoon in Italy. Thanks to fmaily members and great tips from this board. The trip was amazing. We made it to some of the places on the list. Il Caffe di Sant’Eustachio, Maccheroni, and Giolitti. The caffe was great. They make their coffee in a similar style to the Cuban colada (Tampa and Miami people know what I'm talking about). We became experts on Gelato, since we had it pretty much at least once a day. We can see why Giolitti made the list. Pistachio can't be beat. We went to Maccheroni after a long day of sites and were really tired. Viviana finally understood why I like fresh mozzarella capresse; it was amazing. All places met our expectations. Our first night in Rome we went to a place called Il Gabriello, on Via Vittoria, 51; near the Spanish steps (thatnks to chowhound for the rec); bruschetta, fresh pasta with pomodoro, clams and basil; and garbanzo bean soup. That was one of our best meals in Rome. Unfortunately it was close to Midnight and they closed the kitchen, otherwise we would have been there for at least another hour. We tried to go to Armando al Pantheon but they were closed on Mondays. So, we had an early dinner at a pizzeria in the area. Then we went to Da Lucia the following day and they were closed on Tuesday's! Pretty funny. We did find an excellent place not far from Da Lucia called Luce 44. The bruschetta, gnocchi, and grilled rabbit was also one of the best meals we had in Italy, and the food was organic, a plus. Trastevere is a cool part of town. We wish we had more time to spend there. Rome was my favorite city on out trip. Florence had a totally different feel from Rome. We decided that we were loosing too much time traveling from city to city, so we stayed in Florence for four nights. We explored the sites of Florence, spend a day in Chianti, and then went to Modena for a tour of Acetaia Del Cristo, a traditional balsamic producer. Our first night in Florence we walked over to OSTERIA DE’ BENCI. We did as recommended and ordered the Bistecca alla Fiorentina first. The steak was just the way we like it, crust on the outside and bloody in the center. The meat was very tender. Viv loved the greens and reggiano shavings on top of the steak. We were stuffed after that and didn't get to anything else on the menu. We said we would make it back there, but there were other places on the list we had to try. We were staying on the river a few blocks from IL LATINI. So we tried it one night. They had wine and cheese for us while we waited outside the restaurant. The place was a madhouse, but an interesting experience. These guys know how to run a business. They have menus in Italian and Japanese. They don't want you to look at the menu, and the waiter seemed slightly insulted when I asked for the Italian menu. We had a full antipasto spread with proscutto, salami, cheese, and crostini di fegato. We also shared a bowl of the Pappa al Pomodoro, both very good. When we ordered the Trippa allo Fiorentina, they said they didn’t have it and recommended the Bistecca alla Fiorentina. We had tried it already at the Osteria, so we passed and called it a meal and went to Vivoli for gelato. The dark chocolate with candied orange peel was my favorite. We did try the Tripe outside the Central market. They served it on a hard roll. It had so much flavor, and was spicy…excellent. The central market was an experience in itself. We went to a deli counter and order some prosicutto, marinated mushrooms, and fresh ricotta cheese. We brought them on our Chianti drive. We stopped in Impruenza at an amzing bakery. The ciabatta was some of the best bread I've ever had, and I'm originally from NYC, where the bread is great. The drive through Chianti was beautiful. We stopped at some wineries, tried wine, olive oil, and wine vinegar. What a great day. We capped the day off with an amazing meal. We stopped at Dario Cecchini’s butcher shop in Panzano in Chianti. We stumbled upon it actually. We just followed our noses while walking through the town. After spending some time in the butcher shop and a long day in the wine region, we made it back to Panzano for a 7PM seating at his Solociccia Restaurant. We had private seating with one other couple near the wine vats that overlooked the kitchen. Meat presented six different ways! Tartar, fried, braised, roasted, broiled, and boiled. The food, wine, dessert, coffee, after dinner drinks were all included and delicious! We were there almost three hours. What a meal. It was a memorable experience. We stopped in Modena on our way north toward the Milan airport. Acetaia Del Cristo. Gilberto Barbieri met us there and gave us a tour of the balsamic facility. He had barrels from his great grandmother dated 1849. It was so much fun, and he was very hospitable. The tasting of the vinegars was great. We had to bring a bottle home. Now I wish we brought a few more. That’s the scoop on our food experience in Italy. -Rich Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:33:40 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668075#5191370 http://www.chow.com/topics/667829#5190692 We were here last year- We ate in one of the great restaurants in the Jewish Ghetto, which was phenominoal, and then took an easy walk to the street where the Colossium is. One of the more amazing nights of our life!! You'll never forget the crowds, the energy, and the partying in the street!! Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:00:40 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667829#5190692 http://www.chow.com/topics/661211#5188789 This is kind of a shot in the dark but . . . if anyone wants to share a Parmagolosa tour on November 26, 2009, my husband and I have room for 2 more people. Celebrate Thanksgiving, Italy-style!! Feel free to contact me at lisayuenrhoads@gmail.com Thanks! Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:23:38 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/661211#5188789 http://www.chow.com/topics/627860#5188401 I went to high school in the Vomero area and had to pass from the Mergellina train station to the funicolare all the time. Betweent the two, there's a pizzaria called 'da Pasqualino' in piazza Sannazzaro. For me that it real Neopolitan pizza. Don't compare it to NY pizza, that's a whole different thing. Plain Margherita is the way to go if you want the real thing. Eat it with a knife and fork, or just fold the whole thing in half and have at it but watch out for the olive oil on top. A little further down toward the Funicolare station (along Via Mergellina) is 'Ciro' which is a little nicer inside but slightly more touristy. If the weather is nice, I suggest getting a taxi to take you to the Marechiaro area (up on the Vomero) and hit 'dal Cicciotto'. No menu, just eat whatever they bring by and pay the man when you leave. In between you will have an unbeatable view of the bay of Naples and some of the finest food I've ever eaten. Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:33:57 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/627860#5188401 http://www.chow.com/topics/602734#5187879 I just returned from Venice and put Il Ridotto in the same category as Al Covo and Da Fiori -- chefs who care, who are engaged with their patrons and who know well how to plate their passion. Gianni also owns the restaurant across the way from Il Ridotto, called Acciugheta. it's a much-larger venue serving well-prepared traditional venetian fare, with some dishes from other regions of italy. It's warm and welcoming, and you will find Gianni behind the counter making desserts that will be served at Ridotto that night. (I have a picture of him making the mandorle, which was moist, of tender crumb and packed with almond flavor and fragrance. He then gave us a bonus dessert of gelato made from Concord grapes.) Gianni calls Acciugheta the "mama" that supports his "bambino'' -- Il Ridotto. Mother and child are both splendid. Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:18:01 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/602734#5187879 http://www.chow.com/topics/663826#5185075 I looked back at the Nerone report (from April) and it was from Howler, who is reliable, reporting on a carbonara awash in pasta water (this is what I cant conceive), bangladeshis in the kitchen and a peruvian waiter. So maybe it was a fluke but maybe not. I think there have been more recent, positive reports but sounds like the foundations are shaking. Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:01:25 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663826#5185075 http://www.chow.com/topics/666718#5184700 I think you mean Enoteca Costantini (notice spelling) on Piazza Cavour? They have a very good selection, some of the attendants, who are all very knowledgeable, speak English and the prices are fair. But it is nowhere near EUR. I am sorry I can't give any recs for the EUR area, I don't like the area and don't go there. But if you go further in the direction of the city center, in the Garbatella part, there are some very nice simple and good trattorie and pizzerie. Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:30:52 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666718#5184700 http://www.chow.com/topics/448108#5182788 When I lived in Rome Italy, early 90's, I discovered "barilotto del nonno" by accident. It is the place where I would go, at least once a month, to get away from Rome. The Talamo family is the most genuine, loving, caring family you will ever meet. They would go out of their way to make me and my fellow IBMer's happy. They always wanted to leave the best impression of themselves. You don't need fancy and expensive to have a great place to stay......not to mention the food. I hope to be there in 2010, for another visit. I can't wait. Charlie Caranci Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:16:56 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/448108#5182788 http://www.chow.com/topics/635741#5182780 We go to Rome quite often. In fact leaving tomorrow. This said, most restaurants add copertino whether you're Italian or not. Whether you eat the bread or not. Unlike the US where tipping is customary, after the "cover", if you have good service, and addtional tip of one or two Euro is all that in necessary. If the service is less than stellar, then leave nothing extra. It's that simple. Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:11:41 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/635741#5182780 http://www.chow.com/topics/667033#5182294 Re: New York Eataly. It was originally supposed to open this year, but according to Mario Batali it will now be June 2010. It remains to be seen whether this will actually happen. It's a very ambitious and risky enterprise in the current economic situation, so I would not be surprised if it is delayed further or does not happen at all (though I certainly hope it does). We shall see. Sun, 15 Nov 2009 03:18:15 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667033#5182294 http://www.chow.com/topics/666267#5179246 Buatino it is... thanks! Using that info I was able to find this recipe for BACCALA' MARINATO AL FORNO CON PATATE, vague (as Zerlina suggested) but helpful to know about marinating the fish overnight in an assortment of spices. Have it marinating now...looks gorgeous. http://www.welcomeinlucca.it/ristoranti/buatino.htm Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:23:34 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666267#5179246 http://www.chow.com/topics/666370#5176696 Thanks. The reason I asked is because it did seem to me that some of your dishes might have been very much of the season, and you might have seen different offerings at different times of year. Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:51:29 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666370#5176696 http://www.chow.com/topics/658705#5175963 Might be worth adding, hope you don't take it amiss, that in Italy, persimmons are called "cachi" Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:16:39 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/658705#5175963 http://www.chow.com/topics/460436#5172471 hi the Villasampaguita, well about indians resturant I'm need to check a new one in a couple of weeks but for what cocern the mexican I would say "El centenario" is a great place. EVen "las rosas" is a good one, I personally like the one in via giachino (V. Giachino 71, 10149 Torino - Tel 011.290.485) it small,romantic, definetly great for a "dinner for two" El centenario:Via Biancamano 3 - 10121 - Torino Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:33:31 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/460436#5172471 http://www.chow.com/topics/665508#5168273 The photo looks very much like what I remember. When searching for photos of fagottino al cioccolato and saccottino al cioccolato, I get various results of similar pictures. This is probably as close as I will get to knowing the true identity of these pastries - short of traveling back to Italy. As for the warming issue - I don't think that it was a hard and fast rule, maybe Americans always ask that they warm them, so they automatically offered to us. I don't know...Thanks! Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:08:33 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/665508#5168273 http://www.chow.com/topics/661301#5167859 First off - lucky you going to Venice for the first time - it'll be everything you hoped. If you're arriving by train - have your camera ready for the jaw-dropping walking out of the stazione moment. Recently returned from Venice (mid-late October), and, while I don't think Venice really offers the best of the best food in Italy, we did have some stand-out dishes. We took a lot of notice of this (slightly old) article from Angela Hartnett: http://bit.ly/uiK0B, and I asked elsewhere on this board, too. Our big ticket meal was at Fiaschetteria Toscana (for my boyfriend's 40th), where we had little tiny razor clams and shrimps with soft polenta for starters, then bigoli con soar and spaghetti con vongole for first courses. For a fish course, we shared grilled John Dory. Sides were braised red chicory and artichoke hearts. No meat course - too full. Pudding is a blur I'm afraid, too much Prosecco to start. We had seriously good food at Ostaria Da Rioba, in Cannaregio (http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/venice/restaurants.html#darioba), including a rocket, gorgonzola, pear and super-fresh walnut salad - mmm. Another place - more for a late night grappa - al Timon, also in Cannaregio on Fondamenta Ormesini. The food looked interesting from a distance - more like tapas, rather than big plates, and as far off the beaten track as you get in central Venice, really. We had a nice pasta with langoustines lunch down on the Zattere - I've failed to remember the name of it I'm afraid, and have lost the receipt - but very close to the waterbus stop, with a terrace over the water. The rest of the time, we cooked at home (we rented an apartment) - which meant we could try out produce from the markets, and save some money. One last thing - try the Aperol with local white wine and soda - fab. Mon, 09 Nov 2009 21:10:08 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/661301#5167859 http://www.chow.com/topics/661121#5165832 My picky 14 year old daughter and I ate at Vernissage four times on a trip to Italy in June and July of this year. We both loved the restaurant - the food we had was uniformly delicious. The waitress we met bent over backwards to make sure we were satisfied, and that we had fun. Not being an expert on Umbrian cuisine or wine, the last three times we were there, I asked her to select my meal - each one was excellent. The manager and the other staff members were hospitable, and despite the fact my Italian was non-existent and their English was limited, with a little effort, we were able to manufacture the best dining experience we had in Italy. Was it cheap? No. Was it good value? Absolutely! We are definitely going back the next time we are in Rome. Mon, 09 Nov 2009 01:07:24 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/661121#5165832 http://www.chow.com/topics/664017#5161056 We happened upon Trattoria da Tito on via Venezia, 21 off of via Nazionale. It is a tiny place that opens at 7pm. On the night we were there, there was one chef and one waiter for a full house of locals and tourists. The chef actually hand delivered some of his dishes (along with a great smile on his face). There were a few tables outside, but we opted to eat inside. We had a litre of red wine, bread, water (no gas), one tortellini soup, one small ensalata, and 2 orders of agnolotti ragu followed by two limoncellos for 40 euros. Surprisingly, this meal ended up being one of the most enjoyable ones we had on our 10-day trip to Florence, Greve, Bologna and Rome. Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:46:04 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/664017#5161056 http://www.chow.com/topics/664473#5160396 Thanks for your trip report - I always like hearing what other people enjoyed in Florence. I was recently at Osteria Tournabuoni too, and enjoyed it very much... excellent food without the "traditional" tuscan decor (living here, it's just nice to have a change once in a while...everything starts to feel the same... : ) My husband went to Perseus without me once and really liked it, so maybe I should take him back over there...sounds good! And the Pizzeria Lo Spera sounds like a rare bargain! Glad you enjoyed yourself! Fri, 06 Nov 2009 13:55:09 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/664473#5160396 http://www.chow.com/topics/664959#5158706 My brother is re-locating to Rome - February 2010 - and as a Christmas gift I would like to buy him a voucher of some sort so that he can attend a cooking school. He is very keen- but would need the basics! Also the class would have to be taught in English as his Italian is progressing slowly! I've tried looking online but I'm not getting anywhere Can anyone suggest somewhere that would allow me to purchase a voucher for a class that he could then redeem at a time that sutis him? Much appreciated, Sarah Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:05:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/664959#5158706 http://www.chow.com/topics/663833#5157331 Wow! No i haven't tried this brand.. and luckily enough there is a Natura Si very close to me, thank you very much! I'll be making a trip to there very soon! :) Thu, 05 Nov 2009 10:40:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663833#5157331 http://www.chow.com/topics/664054#5153508 We have stayed at the hotel many times and have found the food to be quite good and the service spot on. I think for a holiday dinner it is the perfect place. Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:30:47 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/664054#5153508 http://www.chow.com/topics/660698#5152993 I just stayed at the Courtyard last week and ate at a restaurant not 50 feet down the street from the hotel. Don't remember the name, but it was out the door of the Marriott restaurant, turn right and then it's across the street. Excellent seafood and very reasonable prices (about 12 euros for various seafood pasta). Tue, 03 Nov 2009 21:47:11 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/660698#5152993 http://www.chow.com/topics/656591#5152139 I recommend Al Rustichello on Via Maggiore just outside the city walls. This is a place where many Italians lunch. It is inexpensive and they make their own pasta. The pasta was great -- delicious asparagus and cheese-filled tortellini served right out of the pan. Huge portions and we ate it all, it was so good. Little English is spoken but the proprietor was very friendly (I speak basic Italian), and proudly declared that the pasta was "Mama pasta," i.e. the stuff your real Italian nonna would make. The meat course was fine but nothing special. Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:43:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/656591#5152139 http://www.chow.com/topics/663065#5149440 Ostaria del Pesce was open in March (rented a flat around the corner). Hours are a tad eccentric. Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:06:12 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663065#5149440 http://www.chow.com/topics/653926#5149211 For those with smaller budgets, for travelers renting apartments and/or students with kitchen facilities this little book by my "personal chef " might help you keep the eating expenses down. Half of the 53 recipes are in English and many carry the "E" meaning economic...dinner for about 2 euro! Yesterday it was presented at the University Botanic Gardens in Viterbo, l hour north of Rome. Other presentations are coming up. The photos are already up on Elegant Etruria Friends facebook page . "Olio e Ricordi in Cucina" by Fulvio Ferri, Eng. text by Mary Jane Cryan Etruria Editions, Mon, 02 Nov 2009 17:51:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/653926#5149211 http://www.chow.com/topics/663784#5148478 Definitely hit IlBuco. We've been there 2 different years and food was wonderful. Also Caruso, a bit upscale for Italy. We like the local scene too but Caruso is worth a trip. Mon, 02 Nov 2009 13:53:29 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663784#5148478 http://www.chow.com/topics/663513#5148159 Wow!!! Thank you galka, I sincerely appreciate your nice words! Really, really appreciate your trying the places that I have so many fond memories of. For those reading this the Michelin starred restaurant in Verona-which is my favorite in all of Italy-is Osteria La Fontanina. http://www.ristorantelafontanina.com/eng/ristorante.htm It is virtually unknown by the international press with little mention in any of the guidebooks. I've used Verona or Soave as a base for business for almost 30 years and over time have tried a great many different restaurants. Ten or so years ago I first discovered this incredible restaurant and have returned many times since. I've written about it on here but I think it's Verona location falls a little bit off of many people's radar since Verona is not the destination that, say, Venice is. Still, as many people will stay elsewhere and visit Venice for a daytrip I've stated in Venice and visited Osteria La Fontanina for dinner. It's worth the trip. Thank you again, galka! Mon, 02 Nov 2009 04:31:03 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663513#5148159