http://www.chow.com/boards/58 Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:59:28 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://www.chow.com/topics/585678#4306566 Happy to help SteveG! I am going to submit a full report when we are back but in Firenze I can tell you some of my favs: Oliverio- Very classic- The books say Sophia Loren used to hang out there. For the money it worth every bite, the wine was fantastic and the food was really very good. A little bit of twist of traditional Tuscan cuisine, I liked it very very much (and the atmosphere is beautiful)- for 3 courses, dessert and a bottle of red was $140 euro La Giostra- Please stay far far away from here, its like a wannabe Italian Waverly Inn with a TGIF undertone. So cheesy. The food was way overpriced, huge portions, service was rude, saw at least two strange 80 year old men with 20 year old Russian model-types (not sure what that means but it gave me the chills). Super tacky and our bill was 156 euros for less than great food. Cafe Zero (I think this is the official name)- I never got the exact name but we happened upon the place for lunch and were so pleasently surprised. It is in the oltrarno district. We ate lunch here and and the most amazing view of Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. The place is huge and is partial stand-up cafe with great pastries and part sit down eatery. Try both, we did! Its on Via de Bardi, take a left when you get off the bridge and its on the river side of the street. Also one other place in Palermo I forgot to mention- ANTICA FOCACCERIA SAN FRANCESCO Now lots of people on here love this place and rave about the Milza (a small "sandwich" with spleen and ricotta) and sounded to me about as rustic and traditional as you could get. We made reservations and dined upstairs. I have to sadly, I was so disappointed the food was really heavy and not in a good way. Not much flavor. We tried the Milza, which I think is an acquired taste but if you like organ meat then you will probably like it, but also ordered other traditional offerings like pasta with sardines and tropea red onions, have to say this was not so great. I would recommend going for lunch hour if you are interested in getting a taste of the miza and just ordering from downstairs. You are better off eating at Sant Andrea every night (I'm still dreaming of my semolina ravioli with sea jack sauce) Have an amazing time! Thu, 08 Jan 2009 10:14:40 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/585678#4306566 http://www.chow.com/topics/585282#4306425 I haven't been and don't know anyone who has. From its web site, it looks really precious/self-conscious, with one of those menus that's all over the map. And the tables look really close together. I'll have to reserve judgment till I go there. Thu, 08 Jan 2009 06:00:26 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/585282#4306425 http://www.chow.com/topics/512716#4306414 Yes I had a lovely meal there in Oct 2008. Cover charge, small bottle wine, salad and porcini funghi fettucine (best ever) for E37. I received very good service, and the food quality was excellent. As far as prices certainly comparable to other good Italian restaurants in ROME. Thu, 08 Jan 2009 05:51:02 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/512716#4306414 http://www.chow.com/topics/568185#4304589 any idea on the mighty Florida GATORS vs lowly pond scum Oklahoma sooners game!!!! Got to find someone that is showing it!!! Thanks/Pete Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:33:53 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/568185#4304589 http://www.chow.com/topics/584651#4303297 Only 9 days and you are fed up with Italian food!! What the h... are you doing there? Wed, 07 Jan 2009 13:45:50 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/584651#4303297 http://www.chow.com/topics/558352#4303281 I couldn't agree more about Alle Testiere. The attitude is awful, the food is mediocre, the prices are way too high and they do not understand customer service. Wed, 07 Jan 2009 13:37:38 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/558352#4303281 http://www.chow.com/topics/579194#4302155 I have not stayed there but Rcik Steves recommends Kattihouse and I have found him to be reliable for charming inexpensive places. Let me know if you stay there. Wed, 07 Jan 2009 00:33:39 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/579194#4302155 http://www.chow.com/topics/585487#4299845 ok one last thing.... the "ghetto'" is the jewish ghetto? and what about largo argentina? these are sites or eating destinations? sorry, slightly ignorant. Tue, 06 Jan 2009 11:29:04 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/585487#4299845 http://www.chow.com/topics/585184#4299839 I think Florian's is a wonderful idea, either mid-morning or mid-late afternoon, arranged in advance. Then go to dinner for the food, having already done the view. The list of restaurant criteria is unrealistic, but Florian hits them all, minus the dinner. Tue, 06 Jan 2009 11:15:20 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/585184#4299839 http://www.chow.com/topics/583056#4299195 The finest wine bar I've been to is "La Volpe e l'Uva", Piazza de' Rossi. Walk over Ponte Vecchio (with the city center behind you) forty yards to the left there's a little piazza tucked away. Really super collection of italian and espesially French wines and cheeses. No really! And I don't blame them. They know what they're doing. Please eat some Lampredotto for me / on my behalf. Tue, 06 Jan 2009 02:36:08 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/583056#4299195 http://www.chow.com/topics/497833#4297002 Happy to see this post revived. Last November wife and I were introduced to l'Alchemista in the main square of Montefalco. We were with Mauro and Silvana of Le Case Gialle and enjoyed the pranzo which was an array of about a dozen plates of antipasti and a primo of black asparagus (from Trevi countryside) ravioli. No one could manage a secondo. Go into the enoteca on the main piazza and to your right will be a tiny stair down. Wonderful! Mon, 05 Jan 2009 15:34:21 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/497833#4297002 http://www.chow.com/topics/584990#4295547 I think in Venice Alla Zucca is very good for the winter season. We also liked alla Frasca in Castello, da Sandro (Osteria San Barnaba) in Dorsoduro and Anice Stellato in Cannareggio. but there are a lot of other good recommendations if you search this Board. ps it would be great to hear more about all of your eating experiences when you are back from your trip. Sun, 04 Jan 2009 23:33:54 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/584990#4295547 http://www.chow.com/topics/584701#4295222 You can eat well in Rome for much less than 50 Euros per person, just vary the types of places you go to. Vladimiro/Marcello will run 35-40 per person for dinner with house wine and the meal I described. For lunch, go to restaurants recommended on this board and have just a bowl of pasta and maybe share a secundo. You probably don't want to be eating heavy at lunchtime if you are doing a lot of touring. Something I suggest you do for Rome: get a copy of ACCESS-ROME, the guidebook. Over the years, we have found their restaurant listings to be worth checking out. They rate places by both quality of food and price range and I have always tried to find those which got the highest number of stars for food and the lowest number of $ signs for price. If you can find a 4-star place in their listings with a $$ or $$$, you will probably do well. Another advantage of that guidebook is that they provide handy maps that show where restaurants are relative to where you are visiting. For example, you will find a good restaurant, Giarrosta dal Toscana, at Via Germanica just off Via Ottaviani and it is a short walk from St. Peter's or the Vatican Museum (just don't expect the restaurant to be open at 12 noon - try about 1 PM). Spend the entire morning at the Vatican Museum, leave at 12:30PM and stroll to the restaurant. But check this board for various recommendations on Rome restaurants as well. Sun, 04 Jan 2009 21:27:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/584701#4295222 http://www.chow.com/topics/569786#4294654 A La Commedia, right next to Teatro Goldoni. For a moderately priced hotel, it had the highest user rating on Tripadvisor. Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:49:56 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/569786#4294654 http://www.chow.com/topics/578558#4294203 Alle Testiere is closed until Jan 13, 2009 according to the sign on their door. Sun, 04 Jan 2009 13:25:12 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/578558#4294203 http://www.chow.com/topics/584307#4291791 Hi Jen: We spent NYEve in Bologna. Dined near our apartment at the Ristoranti Colombina, which is a pricey touristy spot, but did not have the ridiculous 80 or 100 euro prix fixe/per person menus. It was nearby on a rainy night and the food was passable, but I cannot recommend it otherwise. The Piazza Maggiore was full of revelers shooting off what sounded like BOMBS, the usual Italian reverie on New Year's everywhere you go in Italy. The city erected a huge comical looking wolf in the Piazza and blew it up and burned it down for fun, I still cannot get the straight story for that wolf action, but the Bolognese enjoyed it. It was pretty tame here in general compared to Rome, although some punk kids took to breaking in the small glass enframed menus that all of the restaurants have outside their doors, they broke seemingly all of them, all over town, but no store windows or other mayhem. The Piazza cleared out in an orderly fashion not long after 1am and all signs of revelry were almost gone by morning, thanks to a crack city cleaning crew. This was our first NYE in Bologna, but I would return as I like the slow pace here over the Holidays and tourist free restaurants, museums, and shops. Yes, it is cold, but it is certainly more pleasant than it has been in most of the northern US this winter! Sat, 03 Jan 2009 10:28:13 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/584307#4291791 http://www.chow.com/topics/555413#4289878 You could stay a few days in Bra, the birthplace of the Slow Food Movement, which is a good base for visiting Cuneo with its big food market, the cheese making zone of Castelmagno and the grappa distilleries of the area. We were given excellent restaurant recommendations and advice by Matteo Ascheri of the Hotel Cantine Ascheri. This hotel opened in 2005 over the winery of the Ascheri Family, winemakers in the region since the 1800’s. The design, by family friend and architect Marco Poncellini is very modern in a post industrial style with references to the surrounding countryside, mountains and vineyards throughout the building with the use of wood, iron, earthy tones and even glass walls on the outside with earth from each of the 3 vineyards they cultivate. There are cheeky touches like spy hole telescopes in the walls of the rooms focused on the snowy Alps and interesting structures in the distance. The place is an absolute delight throughout with helpful and courteous staff; I loved the amazing breakfasts where you can try the raw Bra sausage and unpasteurised cheeses as well as superbly cooked breakfasts, home made cakes, preserves and sweet things or freshly churned alpine butter on fresh baked bread. The rooms are modern and individual with original furnishings and an eye to detail throughout; a library stuffed with books about wine, food and Piedmonte history makes it easy to relax for an hour and immerse yourself in the folklore of the region. The staff are happy to arrange a visit to the wine making and bottling facility below, which you can glimpse through various windows cut into the floor of the public area. A bonus of staying at the hotel is the rustic restaurant on the site of the original Ascheri winery in the courtyard of the grounds called Osteria Murivecchi Booking is recommended as the 4 atmospheric dining rooms were all pretty full when we arrived on a quiet Tuesday night in town, you can see that the same attention to detail found in the hotel is applied here too. they have a website - http://www.ascherihotel.it/welcome_eng.lasso Fri, 02 Jan 2009 18:08:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/555413#4289878 http://www.chow.com/topics/581811#4288184 Don't know if it's too late to answer you, but Vernazza has a DELICIOUS little foccaccia pizza joint. Just get off the train and walk down the hill. It's on the right, you can't miss it. You can't even sit down, but trust me, it's unforgettable (at least to an American). Try the one with pesto! Mmmm! Wish I were there! Thu, 01 Jan 2009 22:49:08 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/581811#4288184 http://www.chow.com/topics/584098#4288169 Just to mention that you might want to try some of the artisanal liquors in this region. We got fairly hooked on nocino, made from green walnuts - they are pretty hard to find in the US, easy in Emilia-Romagna. Thu, 01 Jan 2009 22:40:22 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/584098#4288169 http://www.chow.com/topics/446570#4287595 Where's Mimmo? I just sent a capodanno email to Avogaria and got a reply back from Francesco, who is Antonella's architect brother. Then I looked at the website, and they seem to have not only dropped Mimmo as co-proprietor with Antonella, but written him out of the history of the place! Mimmo was a super proprietor/manager. If anybody has been to Avogaria since this change, I'd like to hear how they are doing now. And if you run across Mimmo Piccolomo managing a restaurant, go in and order! Thu, 01 Jan 2009 17:48:55 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/446570#4287595 http://www.chow.com/topics/581103#4286929 Does it have to be dinner? My husband asked me to marry him at lunch and I never saw it coming. We're very fond of Grappolo d'Oro Zampano on the piazza della Cancelleria near the Campo dei Fiori. Good food, good service, recommend you reserve in advance., http://www.grappolodorozampano.it Thu, 01 Jan 2009 03:03:35 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/581103#4286929 http://www.chow.com/topics/555826#4284335 If you want really good food you must go to bologna in northern Italy thats where some of the best food in all of Italy is. Wed, 31 Dec 2008 01:44:09 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/555826#4284335 http://www.chow.com/topics/583711#4283397 Thanks for the mention of Osteria La Fontanina in Verona. It brings back memories of a dinner there over 12 years ago. I hope to get back there some day. Tue, 30 Dec 2008 20:07:49 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/583711#4283397 http://www.chow.com/topics/583641#4283363 Thanks so much for taking the time to report back! Sounds like you had fun -- 2 weeks, lucky you! Tue, 30 Dec 2008 19:56:40 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/583641#4283363 http://www.chow.com/topics/582417#4271207 I've posted on this place many times, especially for those staying near the Spanish Steps, as it is a relatively short walk from there to this restaurant. It meets some of your requirements and I have never known anyone who did not thoroughly enjoy the meal, including all members of my family on severa occasions: -Best recommendation for quality, quantity, price, and ambience is Vladimiro/Marcello at Via Aurora 37 between Ludovisi and Lombardo, 2 blocks in from the Via Veneto where the large hotels are. Recommended is a set meal they may suggest (if they don’t, ask your waiter for it): antipasti misti (5-6 vegetarian appetizers in large bowls from which you take what and how much you wish), primo is a platter of 3 different pastas in 3 different sauces, secundo is a large chunk of roast veal with potatoes and other items (veal is excellent but you may be able to substitute a different meat if you don't prefer veal). House wine is good and can be had in ½ or full liter pitchers, in white or red. This meal for 2 with 1 liter of wine has generally cost us about 60-70 Euros. Wed, 24 Dec 2008 16:35:41 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/582417#4271207 http://www.chow.com/topics/580861#4265869 thanks, well check it out. Have you heard of 4 Colonne ? This is a restaurant that was recomended by the concierge. Mon, 22 Dec 2008 16:40:04 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/580861#4265869 http://www.chow.com/topics/580897#4265209 $50 per person is about 35E which will rule out the really good restaurants. If it doesn't include wine and a little sharing, some good trattorias/osterias in that price range are: Antica Basseta, Anice Stellato, Bancogiro, La Bitta (no seafood), Rivetta, Alla Frasca. Mon, 22 Dec 2008 06:10:57 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/580897#4265209 http://www.chow.com/topics/568105#4265171 The Cipriani is closed from October to April. Mon, 22 Dec 2008 05:44:42 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/568105#4265171 http://www.chow.com/topics/578710#4258031 Thanks for letting me know! Fri, 19 Dec 2008 00:33:35 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/578710#4258031 http://www.chow.com/topics/580885#4257793 Traditionally house wines in osterie and trattorie have been white, and only the better establishments offered actual Frascati, which wasn't even any great shakes until recently. I remember when the glass carafe was likely to contain something sort of copper colored or else nearly as pale as water. Today vino sfuso (carafe wine) is found mainly in trattorias and pizzerias, not in restaurants and rarely in any place with any kind of wine list. Restaurants are unlikely to have a house wine, though some do. In any case, nowadays where vino sfuso exists, it is better than it used to be, and the red is usually no worse than the white and is sometimes a decent Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. A restaurant exception that comes to mind is Trattoria Monti (never mind the name), where there is a nice verdicchio on tap, but the family is from the Marche, so everything about the place is an exception. Thu, 18 Dec 2008 22:32:16 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/580885#4257793 http://www.chow.com/topics/579370#4251618 Al 34 would not be most people's idea of a place for a special occasion. It's crowded and full of tourists, though not only. The food is not half bad, but it's really nothing special. The atmosphere is hectic. Nino, too, is scarcely a splurge. It's been chugging along for generations doing the same thing, but a few years ago emerged as fashionable. Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:35:54 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/579370#4251618 http://www.chow.com/topics/568041#4247664 It may be too late, but L'Alceo outside Pesaro is wonderful seafood restaurant on the hillside overlooking the sea. Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:44:05 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/568041#4247664 http://www.chow.com/topics/568816#4247649 Suggest Rabaja' in Baberesco- great wine list, mature barbarescos are very reasonable, and great food Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:36:08 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/568816#4247649 http://www.chow.com/topics/579971#4245638 Hi, Anyone have any recommendations for New Years Eve in Capri? Thank you! Laura Sun, 14 Dec 2008 16:19:16 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/579971#4245638 http://www.chow.com/topics/572513#4242220 Your best bet is to head for anything that has "pizzeria" attached. These tend to be casual and generally serve more than pizza. What area of the city are you staying in? Fri, 12 Dec 2008 19:58:33 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/572513#4242220 http://www.chow.com/topics/579518#4241203 I'm planning to spend a couple of months in Florence next year, unfortunately in peak tourist season. I am looking for recommendations for apertivo and simple meal options off the beaten path (tough in Florence, I know): north and east of piazza della libertà, say. or I am especially interested in aperitivo joints that offer substantial food, and good-value hole-in-the-wall places. Open to any kind of food and ambience. Previous (short and central) visits have produced only a couple of memorable results; I am hoping that getting away from the fray might help. Fri, 12 Dec 2008 13:01:10 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/579518#4241203 http://www.chow.com/topics/577632#4240826 Thanks very much, everyone! Fri, 12 Dec 2008 05:12:07 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/577632#4240826 http://www.chow.com/topics/529678#4235346 I feel ya. The contrast between the US's industrial, cheap-food, roadside blech and Italy's Autogrill couldn't be more stark. I love the holiday displays of regional sweets, too. Never gonna find that at a US truck stop. Wed, 10 Dec 2008 16:34:35 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/529678#4235346 http://www.chow.com/topics/461020#4234751 The New Years Eve Event in Rome 2008-2009 In Rome there are several events on newyears eve, there is going to be a huge concert in Piazza del Popolo square, with classical music and ballet. Most of the most important clubs of Rome like Art Cafe, Spazio900, Joia, Gilda and Cabala are preparing Newyears eve party and events. We would like to inform that this year there is going to be a Party in the historical space included in Rome central Station : Stazione Termini. The space is above 1500 sqm. , and 2 glass floor looks the ground floor where the dance party will take place after midnight. 3 floors, with Gala dinner, buffet or just club entrance. every information, New years eve program and prices can be found on this website: http://www.capodanno.us/en/new-years-eve-convoglia.php - Informations & reservations I hope I gave you a nice idea for your visit of Rome in Newyear 2008 Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:01:32 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/461020#4234751 http://www.chow.com/topics/576394#4234095 New Year's Eve is 90 Euros according to the website. Thanks for the suggestion! Wed, 10 Dec 2008 02:02:36 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/576394#4234095 http://www.chow.com/topics/571774#4231581 The hand written sign outside the Antiche Carampane reads NO PIZZA, NO LASAGNE, NO TOURIST MENU. This simple statement is not meant to deter tourists as the staff were welcoming and friendly but rather to nail their colours honestly to the mast. Seafood is the stock in trade of this delightful restaurant close to the Rialto Bridge in a neighborhood where premises were used for the ancient trade of prostitution from the 13th century. No longer I hasten to add ! Live soft shell crabs were brought to the table for our perusal and the fried fish was some of the best we had ever tasted, light, crisp and fragrant. Lunch here had the atmoshphere of a tipical local eatery rather than a place just catering to tourists as can often happen in Venice. Tue, 09 Dec 2008 10:13:29 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/571774#4231581 http://www.chow.com/topics/576031#4228810 I would also try VESTRI - chocolate and gelato - located in Piazza Salvemini, at the end of Borgo degli Albizi. Mon, 08 Dec 2008 14:54:41 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/576031#4228810 http://www.chow.com/topics/415026#4225978 Hello Susan and all, I'm Barbara Alfano and I'm responding for Giovanni Seritelli as well. Don't ask me how I found your posting... sheer chance :-) Simposium closed down a few years ago. Giovanni is very grateful for your interest in his old activity and hopes he can someday go back to it. As for me, your postings were a pleasant surprise that made me plunge into lovely memories (I am now a faculty member in a US academia: very far from a Neapolitan kitchen). Thanks. Barbara Sun, 07 Dec 2008 00:22:34 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/415026#4225978 http://www.chow.com/topics/575296#4225749 Here is a definitive dining experience http://www.ristoranteparizzi.it/ENG/home_ita.htm Sat, 06 Dec 2008 22:25:21 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/575296#4225749 http://www.chow.com/topics/418151#4224080 We just returned from Florence and had one of the best meals at Sostanza. We went for the 9 pm seating and were with only two other Americans. recommend reservations. the bistecca is outstanding and big but try the chicken poached in butter!! Cash only, should have known but it was a long run to the ATM. Fri, 05 Dec 2008 23:34:38 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/418151#4224080 http://www.chow.com/topics/577448#4221628 My husband is traveling to Milan next weekend to perform with a group of musicians. I'm looking for restaurant recommendations -- ideally, I'd like to send him in the direction of some terrific Milanese food and good atmosphere at a moderate price. I'd love to both hear people's top restaurant picks and also some possibilities for large groups. All suggestions welcome. Thanks! Fri, 05 Dec 2008 02:51:16 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/577448#4221628 http://www.chow.com/topics/577428#4221513 here is some info about Capodanno in Italy - if you search you will find sites with lots of Florence events, concerts etc. http://www.clickz.it/index/listings/page615.htm http://english.firenze.net/turismo/cm_dettaglio.wbs?id_contenuto=231318&id_categorie=92 Im sure you will get some good restaurant suggestions, but if you know where you want to go, its easy enough to contact them and see if they are serving a special meal. Reservations are probably a good idea on this night. Fri, 05 Dec 2008 01:53:46 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/577428#4221513 http://www.chow.com/topics/576812#4216955 Email Maureen Fant (info@maureenbfant.com, she's a frequent poster here)...she has individual and group classes, which include a market tour & shops in her neighborhood near Testaccio. The class culminates in a luncheon, and you can bring a guest to the eating part of the class. Wed, 03 Dec 2008 15:06:18 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/576812#4216955 http://www.chow.com/topics/575814#4215886 Exactly! Wed, 03 Dec 2008 01:15:15 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/575814#4215886 http://www.chow.com/topics/576306#4215351 I don't know of any, but FWIW I think this is the article you're referring to: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/15/travel/15headsup.html?scp=22&sq=palermo%20travel&st=cse EDIT: just saw zEli173's previous post about the same article. Oops. Tue, 02 Dec 2008 21:53:23 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/576306#4215351