http://www.chow.com/boards/58 Thu, 18 Aug 2011 23:00:19 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849470#7342283 Oh great idea! I will do just that! I do not know exactly where I will be staying at yet so guess its seafood for the first few days then ... Until I get my bearings and ask around ... Thanks again! makhruji Wed, 16 May 2012 12:31:42 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849470#7342283 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849408#7342213 Other thoughts in response to Elizabeth's post: I had to run off to the morning market before it closed, but I had plenty of pensees d'escaliers about this thread (we have a lot of stairs in Liguria) and I want to add them here, as well as elaboration about theft in Bari, because it is really the thing of most serious import to those planning a trip. I honestly don't see Elizabeth's post as a personal attack on me and I dearly hope Chowhound moderators don't pull it when they wake up in America. But I do see it as an attack -- or at least a discouragement -- of people posting any kind of honest trip report, and find the criticisms of my posting without any objective basis. I spent 15 days traveling in southern Italy, most of them in Puglia, which is actually far more than most people who write trip reports on this board generally spend in any one region of Italy. By the norms of this board, if 15 days isn't enough time to form impressions valuable to other people, I suggest the board regulars begin scolding everybody who returns from a standard trip and posts about their disappointments here as being "unhelpful" based on their too-limited experience. Please also note that I spent less time in Basilicata and had fewer meals there than I did in Puglia, and yet my glowing praise of Baslilicata and my enthusiasm for what I ate provoked no criticism. It is hard to resist the conclusion that had I rubber-stamped a "positive" foodie view of Puglia, my report would have earned nothing but praise for its wisdom and perceptiveness. I don't mind people having a bias for Puglia -- why not? -- but those who don't have the bias can also form accurate impressions. The suggestion that if only I had gone instead to the "picturesque" towns of Puglia, I would be in a better position to advise other Chowhounders about the cuisine of Puglia leaves me very skeptical. My general experience of eating in Italy (which I do every day!) is that the more "picturesque" the Italian locale, the more likely you'll be disappointed in the food. Nothing I've yet to read about Puglia leads me to believe that Puglia is that singularly blessed tourist destination where the most thrilling food is found at the prettiest beach vistas or trulli towns. In fact, if you take a look at this report about Lecce, with contributions from a native that pretty much echo my own impressions of eating there, you'll see plenty of cautions about the difficulties of planning a gastronomic tour of Puglia while trying to combine it with the picturesque. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/706699 Finally, many people will want to go to Puglia and track down the regional specialities of horsemeat, raw sea urchins, deep fried breads filled with cheese, pastas made with burnt grains, etc -- but that doesn't make the reports of people who don't eat or like those things any less valuable to the potential gastronomic visitor to Puglia. I stick by my story that people headed to italy looking to taste great olive oil, great cheese, great pasta, great vegetable antipasta, great wine and even great seafood might want to choose many other regions ahead of Puglia for food alone, and if they do choose Puglia, they should go to the point of origin where the best of these products are found, and if seafood is what appeals, go in season. An elaboration about theft in Bari: In my first post, I noted that the Trattoria Bacco in Bari, which is a very upscale restaurant, offers its diners an internal glass smoking room where they can slip in to suck a cigarette between courses. That is to avoid the problem of sending well-dressed diners, many wearing jewelry, outside to the street to smoke, even though the restaurant is located on one of Bari's broadest, well-lit boulevards. Bacco keeps its front door locked during dinner. If you go online and google for information about theft in Bari, you will find an archive of magazine articles, dating back to the late 90s, all of which announce that theft in Bari is a thing of the past. These articles appear at regular intervals. The end of theft was announced in 1996, 2000, 2004, 2007 -- you get the point. At some point I've no doubt it will be true. (Go Nichi Vendola!) In the meantime, this 2008 video is a good reminder to leave the purse at your hotel when you visit Bari, which I hope you will do. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=b00_1221126562 I'm still glad I posted my impressions from my trip for other people, adding this info to the archival mix. I bet it someday serves somebody very well. barberinibee Wed, 16 May 2012 11:29:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849408#7342213 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844731#7341981 Thanks very much for your comment, dhcrusoe. I'm still trying to weigh the pluses and minuses of my short list here, and I have to say you've given me more food for thought --but haven't helped me make my decision!! Oh well, at least I still have a bit more time to contemplate our choice. Thanks again. lamaba Wed, 16 May 2012 04:10:30 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844731#7341981 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849448#7341784 Hi all, Two quick recommendations for places near the Boboli Gardens: Volume (cafe) in the Santo Spirito - a really hip place, friendly staff, great music, good coffee, free wifi, clean bathrooms. All of those things make for a great experience! Highly recommended. The restaurant immediately adjacent to Volume (has a porch). We ate outside on a warm April day; enjoyed our pizza (cliche, but it was tasty) and salad tremendously. Try the deserts! Frequented by other internationals, and by Italians. So - two spots close to Boboli, central, but quiet (spirited away from the crowds, perhaps?). Eat well, --Dave dhcrusoe Wed, 16 May 2012 02:34:28 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849448#7341784 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849419#7341295 I spent a night in Salerno, and then moved on to Naples to visit Capri. In Salerno, I ate in the Slow Food recommended Osteria Canale on the via Canale, just a stone's throw from the Duomo and up the street from the complex of San Pietro a Corte. This is a really very homey but quirky place, run by a mother and daughter. We had sliced raw artichokes with lemon, candele pasta alla genovese, and absolutely terrific plates of meatballs in red sauce. The basic dishes of Campania agree with my stomach better than any other regional food of Italy, and this place delivers and very satisfying, classic meal that just leaves you feeling better for having eaten it. After dinner, we took a stroll along the Lungomare Trieste in search of a taxi, and on a pleasantly warm Friday evening, the entire seafront turns into miles of riotous pizza eating, with one pizzeria after another filled to overflowing, terraces of tables spilling to the street, and the smell of all that hot cheese and baking bread and the din of Italian conversation, ringing cellphones, roaring motorcycles, is overwhelming. It would be fun to go back and take part. On a day in Capri, we picked La Savardina for its proximity to the Villa Jovis. It is an airy place enclosed within a small, pretty citrus orchard, and comically huge Amalfi lemons dangle suggestively everywhere. We drank fresh-squeezed lemonade, ate mozzerella grilled between lemon leaves, ordered linguine with lemon sauce (that had too much marscapone in it). A caprese salad had tasty tomatoes. A handmade pasta with basil pounded into the base with a seafood sauce was rustic and interesting. I had such low expectations of eating in Capri it was impossible for me to be disappointed, but I walked away feeling that this is nice, timeless hideaway with fresh food, fair prices and a caring staff far, far removed from the worst horrors of Capri's mass tourism, and all that vitamin C I'm sure was good for me. In Naples, I ate the good food of Napoli at Hostaria Toledo and Europeo d'Mattozzi, and posted about my polar opposite experiences here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/780954 I drank lots of coffee at Gambrinus since it was so close to where I was staying (the uniquely situated Art Resort in the Galleria Umberto I) and I lusted for the marvelous floor-length, chocolate-brown apron skirts with slits up the sides that the male baristas wear, although the coffee is better at Caffe Mexico. barberinibee Tue, 15 May 2012 22:22:39 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849419#7341295 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847111#7340705 i also prefer Serghei's gramigna alla salsiccia to its tagliatelle al ragu. My main reason for repeatedly recommending Serghei is that it is one of the few places inside the historic walls of Bologna that seems capable of doing an enjoyable secondo if you know what to order. I think sticking to pork shank and turkey thigh is the safest bet. (I don't think of the owner as a sourpuss so much as harried and seemingly abrupt, and he is getting a reputation on Chowhound as being something of a secret sweetie-pie.) Da Gianni in the historic center is a good choice for pastas other than tagliatelle or gramigna, and especially if you want a secondo of grilled mortadella. By the way, there are other places in Bologna that do a good gramigna alla salsiccia, but in a different style. Gigina makes a truly fun version (the best), and I also like the dish at Bistrot 18, and also at Il Tinello (at the latter, it is best to go with a grilled vegetable secondo). In general, I think it is a less tricky dish to pull off well than tagliatelle al ragu and tends please more palates anyway. Ravioli with gorgonzola sauces are also too often bypassed by visitors to Bologna in favor of sampling the classic ragu. Trattoria Anna Maria makes a gorgonzola pasta dish that is luscious (for a secondo, proscuitto and melon can be the best bet outside of winter). barberinibee Tue, 15 May 2012 18:18:31 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847111#7340705 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849286#7339974 We had a fantastic dinner in Gabicce Monte at a place called Posillipo in September 2007. We were part of a larger group (14 people maybe) and I had no idea that the restaurant was attached to a hotel. The menu was chosen for us - and every morsel was delicious. And the view was gorgeous. http://www.hotelposillipo.com/it/ristorante_45.html njberk Tue, 15 May 2012 13:42:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849286#7339974 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/267998#7339897 hmm, you replied to my post but I am not Vinny... if you meant me, vinoroma - yes, there are some - Torce and fata morgana are faves, ciampini and gracchi for certain flavors, vice and neve di latte are good but somehow i don't make it to them too often (out of my way), won't say no to teatro del gelato, either. I do not like the bad-quality/industrial mix using but much hyped places like Giolitti, Fassi, San Crispino. Can't say Grom uses industrial stuff, but still don't like the consistency of their icecream and find the flavors muted. Don't even want to talk about blue ice chain. vinoroma Tue, 15 May 2012 13:00:00 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/267998#7339897 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849157#7339828 I haven't been in quite a few years, but the place is beautiful and it's nice for a rather retro change of pace. As a destination I see it more as a girlfriend place. Otherwise, it's good for stopping in during shopping. There's a bar downstairs that seemed to have nice sandwiches and pastries, restaurant upstairs with some un-Italian dishes, but I forget what. Sorry not to have more details, but I did like it. Oddly, had forgotten its existence until a couple of days ago when I thought about it (have not seen the articles). mbfant Tue, 15 May 2012 12:04:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849157#7339828 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/780954#7339719 I'm adding to this year-old thread because I had a dismal experience of Europeo di Mattozzi just a few nights ago. This restaurant is recommended in the Slow Food guide, and while the food was quite nice, the service is insulting. I would never return. I also ate very good food at Hosteria Toledo (also recommended in the Slow Food guide), and received marvelous, personally attentive treatment, despite the restaurant being very busy on a Sunday night (it's one of the few Slow Food recommended restaurants open on a Sunday night in Naples). One fears that this truly family restaurant will simply be overwhelmed by the number of tourists who descend upon it, but it is run with great integrity and care for its guests. We ate a delicious antipasti of mixed vegetables, spaghetti with clams, and fried baby squids. When they were out of the dessert I requested, they made me a special plate of several other of the desserts and fresh fruit. Noting that we had ordered a wine from ischia, they offered me a glass of an amaro from ischia to finish my meal. Everything was very nice indeed. barberinibee Tue, 15 May 2012 07:50:54 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/780954#7339719 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848661#7338911 yes, I see now on their website that they close in August for the entire month. Sorry I can't recommend an alternative. I don't eat veal, and only remembered Armando al Pantheon having it because my husband ate it there once. barberinibee Mon, 14 May 2012 22:29:31 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848661#7338911 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848847#7338788 When I read your post, Settimio al Pellegrino was what popped to mind -- and i see it is on your list. However, it has a very limited daily menu, which means your family needs to be prepared for not having many choices. You need to be willing to eat what is being served. Period. I would also suggest Hostaria Nerone for a more extensive menu (I've seen children the same age as yours eating happily in there) and it is close to the sights of Roman antiquity. If your kids are adventurous eaters and like fried foods, they might enjoy eating in Rome's Jewish quarter, and you can look up on Chowhound people's varying opinions about which places are best. But you don't say where you are lodging, which might turn out to be quite important when it comes to choosing your dinner options. Your family may not want to trek long distances to and from your lodgings at the end of the day. If you post where you are staying, people here might be able to suggest some neighborhood places that would suit you just fine. Unlike other cities, Rome is a place where returning to the same restaurant is fun if you enjoyed your first meal there. The owners remember you and are delighted to see you return. By the way, if you do a google search or look up old posts on Chowhound, you can find links to Armando al Pantheon's menu online. Last but not least, you don't say how long your "long trip" is, but there are few things grimmer in the world of eating than facing 2 Italian restaurant meals per day, even when you are not a kid. Meals are long, multi-course affairs (and in the evening start after 8pm) -- with lots of dead time between courses and it takes forever to get the bill. In addition to scoping out sit-down places in Rome, you should get a list of alternatives to restaurant eating, including picnic, pizza, etc. barberinibee Mon, 14 May 2012 21:27:00 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848847#7338788 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844267#7337500 I am here in fascinating Roma. Due to a fortunate (for me,I think) water leak, our apartment is on Via Lorenzo il Magnific. So our window look out on a lovely courtyard with orange trees & singing birds. But a different location re food. We walked past Ristorante da Franco last night. Anyone know about it. Of course we will still walk to Via Padova. And we are in walking distance of Tiburnia Statione. So the world is ours! I will post as I try different places. Grazia. A noradailey Mon, 14 May 2012 12:22:46 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844267#7337500 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/781903#7337381 Antiche Carampane, impeccable, €60-€80; try Orto dei Mori will be less, Covo, and Santa Marina will be about the about the same as Carampane. There are more.if you're looking for a different sort of experience. (la Cantina, la Staffa, Promessi Sposi for example). livingvenice Mon, 14 May 2012 07:56:10 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/781903#7337381 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/842157#7337099 Just reading through some of the positive reviews for this place on Tripadvisor. "My husband's shrimp pasta arrived and we actually broke out laughing. These were no ordinary shrimp!! They were HUGE whole cooked prawns on an amazing bed of pasta and sauce. " Which is then accompanied by a photo of the same very small langoustines, like the ones they sell in my local supermarket in England (you have to go to the expensive fishmonger to get the large ones) http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/LocationPhotos-g681249-d1034564-Busa_Alla_Torre_Da_Lele-Murano_Veneto.html Just shows how perceptions can differ. The spaghetti WAS tasty, but those are not huge prawns!!! Also I should mention the grilled sea bass came with grilled (white) polenta. It was pretty bland, I don't eat a lot of polenta, but the yellow polenta we had the previous night in some random place was way better/ mikehunt69 Mon, 14 May 2012 01:54:51 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/842157#7337099 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848726#7336841 I didn't hit it this trip, but this past October I had the most incredible mela verde (green apple) gelato at Gelateria Corona on via Arenula. It was liking biting into a delicious apple. grandpamarian Sun, 13 May 2012 22:12:22 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848726#7336841 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848864#7336559 Oilio e Convivium is open, but I'm not sure about Trattoria Due G (I think it's not). But Tre Soldi is, and it's very good. A taxi ride, but worth it. Love their home made pastas,and the tagliata with a battuta of lardo on top is superb. www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com minchilli Sun, 13 May 2012 18:02:26 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848864#7336559 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848902#7336450 The Casa Parmigiano located right in the Rialto Market area is a good place to get cheeses. Not sure if they're open Sunday and Monday though. jangita Sun, 13 May 2012 16:53:54 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848902#7336450 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/841593#7334868 I have my suspicions about restaurants that provide free shuttle vans for diners. erica Sat, 12 May 2012 12:49:27 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/841593#7334868 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/813415#7334588 I would say that neither of these really deserve their reputations. San Crispino is overpriced and oversweet. Vivoli is far better, rizzo hmmm. I preferred Giolittii's to San Crispino, on taste, price and lack of pretentiousness. chobochobo Sat, 12 May 2012 03:43:57 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/813415#7334588 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/806690#7334571 Ah Da Michele. Had a hour stopover in Naples en route to Positano and ran to get two take away pizzas to bring back to others waiting with luggage at station. Great taste, if a bit sloppy. Could have been the 10 minutes being cooped up in the box though. Also tried the 'branch' in Tokyo a couple of months ago, a different beast entirely. chobochobo Sat, 12 May 2012 03:35:09 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/806690#7334571 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/268546#7334539 I was there a couple of years ago, food was good if a touch pricey. Had the Risotto Milanese and the Osso bucco, no complaints. The thing about any sort of guidebook or blog or sites like this one, is that it will definitely affect the flow of customers to places. chobochobo Sat, 12 May 2012 03:16:07 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/268546#7334539 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848462#7333083 Thanks for the suggestions guys! I've messaged both of them and am awaiting their responses. fishnetstars Fri, 11 May 2012 13:20:11 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848462#7333083 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/812283#7332971 Oh, I understand how that might have looked. Okay, here's the scoop: we spent six days in Rome and had really only two truly memorable meals (Culinary Loft and Trattoria Cadorno), but I went with the boyfriend and his two kids, so we were looking for simple pizza and pasta and trattoria places, not the foodie places we normally seek out (we live in Paris, and just so you all know, La Table d'Aki is my new favorite place as of last night--exquisite food). So, our best trattoria meal was at Trattoria Cadorno, where the staff were adorable to the kids and we had lovely pasta and antipasti (fried bread with tomato sauce, usually a Neapolitan specialty, very nice here, and grilled vegetables that were perfect). We would've happily gone back, but they are closed on weekends. We were disappointed by Trattoria Costanza (I had linguine with scallops which were overcooked and rubbery, but the waiter was very nice and apologetic about it and didn't charge us and the kids liked their pastas). We had a solid, good meal at Trattoria degli Amici. We had very simple but nice meal at Ar Galleto in Piazza Farneses. We never found a pizza place we really liked, much to the kids' displeasure. We ate at six different gelaterias (Frigidarium, Tre Scalini, Giolitti, Flor, Claudio Torce and another one I can't remember). The kids loved Giolitti for the fruit flavored gelato (the pear, apple, blueberry and pink grapefruit), but we all agreed the other flavors, aside from chestnut weren't that great. Frigidarium was just okay, as was Tre Scalini. The kids liked Flor, again for the fruit flavored gelati--raspberry in particular, but watermelon was nice too. My favorite was Torce, for the sophisticated flavors and the 12 different kinds of chocolate. I tend to prefer sorbets for fruit flavors (Berthillon in Paris) and gelati for chocolate/nut/chocolate chip/ vanilla etc flavors, if that makes sense. So, that's the Rome report. Culinary Loft was our favorite meal, not just because we got to make pasta, but because the pasta was perfect. Truly, a brilliant carbonara (with fried artichoke) which has, perhaps ruined me for any other, and the ragu sauce Asia and Gaia made to go with the pasta we made was lovely. I don't think I'd have the patience to watch anything simmer for 8 hours, so I don't know when I'll eat anything like it again, but I'm confident I could probably make a decent imitation of the carbonara, if I could get my hands on Tuscan ingredients in Paris. Hope this information helps! djdoucement Fri, 11 May 2012 10:30:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/812283#7332971 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848517#7332799 Nice report. I loved La Torre and La Libera too. Next trip you must try Cascina Schiavenza and Il Centro. rrems Fri, 11 May 2012 04:02:36 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848517#7332799 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/843133#7332755 EKC--have a wonderful trip. The AC is perhaps the most beautiful place I've ever been, despite the rainy weather we experienced. And to continue on with our trip: Part Two--A Week on the Amalfi Coast (continued) We spent our last day in Amalfi, as the Museo della Cartiera was a must-visit for my engineer husband, who used to work in the paper industry. Matt was not up for more seafood, so we drove to DaMario, outside of Ravello, which reportedly (according to the villa owner) had the best pizza around. We should have known better, as the pizza was available only for dinner, so we had veal scallopine, mine with mushrooms and Matt's with lemon. Obviously I can't comment on the pizza, but otherwise, don't bother. We made risotto al limone, and green beans with grated lemon zest back at the villa for dinner. I love the Amalfi lemons! Part Three--Travelling North On Sunday morning, we hit the autostrada and reached Rome by 12:30. That left us plenty of time to drop off luggage at the hotel, return the rental car, stop for a quick drink, then head to Flavio al Velavevodetto for pranzo. Matt started with tonnarelli cacio e pepe, while I had fettucine alla vignarola (Elizabeth Minchilli recently mentioned that vignarola was now sometimes treated as a sauce for pasta, which is exactly what I had). Mine was good, although I think I would have preferred the vignarola on its own. Matt's pasta, which I had to try, was excellent. Matt followed with a beef dish--can't remember the details, as I was absorbed with my abbacchio (thin baby lamb chops breaded and fried) served with zucchini sticks. We had been debating between Flavio al V. and Perilli for lunch and were very happy with our choice. Afterward, we had hoped to stop at Claudio Torce for gelato, but couldn't possibly eat another bite. Next on our agenda was a winetasting at VinoRoma. Although we've been drinking Italian wines for over 20 years, this was our first real winetasting, three whites and three reds from regions all over Italy. Given Matt's familiarity with the wines of Piemonte (from the time he worked there), Hande substituted a lesser-known Freisa for the planned Barbera, so we had a chance to check out the wine cellar, too. The class was very enjoyable and informative, without being stuffy. I especially enjoyed talking about possible food pairings with each wine we tasted. After all that food and wine, I wasn't eating another full meal, so since we were in Monti, I took Matt over to Al Vino Al Vino, where we had piatti misti di salumi e formaggi with a bottle of Dolcetto before heading back to the hotel. We spent Monday morning visiting Matt's favorite sites, since I'd already had 5 days on my own, then headed over to Roscioli for a late-ish lunch. We absolutely loved the burrata but had mixed feelings about the carbonara. The sauce was much richer and creamier than the one I make at home, and I loved the guanciale--crisp little nuggets of concentrated flavor, and so much better than the bacon I'm forced to use as a substitute at home--but for our taste, the pasta was a touch too al dente. Overall, though, a good meal, and Matt was thrilled with the cookies served with chocolate. More touring that afternoon, then a well-deserved break for gelato at Gelateria del Teatro. I had a coppa of salvia e lampone, which sounded a little odd but tasted great, and ricotta/fico/mandorla, which was one of my favorite combinations ever. I had a taste of Matt's ginger--also excellent--but regret that I didn't taste the dark chocolate with wine. We had planned to have pizza that evening at Pizzarium, but I wasn't hungry (I must find a way to increase my eating capacity on our next trip because there are so many places I want to try!). Matt decided he still wanted a bite to eat, so we dashed over to Forno Campo de Fiori. Too late--they had just closed--so we stopped at Cul de Sac for sopressata piccante and formaggi misti so poor Matt wouldn't starve to death. I checked out all my neighbors' dishes, and this is another place I'd like to explore more. Further exploration will have to wait for our next trip, though, as we leave for Siena tomorrow morning. lisaonthecape Fri, 11 May 2012 03:19:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/843133#7332755 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848157#7332743 Dear Barberinibee, thank you very much for your wonderful help. I have ordered the book and will take special care. Thank you also for suggesting going to La Spezia for dinner. Much appreciated! Have also order allergy cards from Select Wisely due to other recommendations on this site. MFriedmann Fri, 11 May 2012 03:13:20 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848157#7332743 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/793982#7331632 Thank you SO MUCH for this amazing thread. We followed much of your advice as well as that of the remarkable Hande Leimer of vinoroma, whom we learned about in this thread. Our only disappointment was La Gensola. Maybe we hit an off night as our fish was bland and far inferior to anything else we ate in Rome. We also discovered a lovely little place in Trastevere almost by accident - Le Mani in Pasta, owned by a Sardinian. We at the best buffalo mozzarella, proscuitto and pasta of the trip there! Thanks! bjadler Thu, 10 May 2012 16:59:32 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/793982#7331632 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848445#7331005 great report, thanks for sharing. This is the second report/mention ever of Pace del Palato, might have to check it out. vinoroma Thu, 10 May 2012 08:55:11 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848445#7331005 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847985#7330920 Glass is a one michelin star fine dining establishment that has great food, lovely service and a modern decor. Ad hoc is very homey looking (wine bottles everywhere, wood) or tuscan looking trattoria with ambitions and might appeal to the italy visitor more (by its cover). vinoroma Thu, 10 May 2012 06:17:26 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847985#7330920 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844397#7329663 Me, too! erica Wed, 09 May 2012 18:44:56 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844397#7329663 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/770914#7329265 We just returned from a long weekend staying at Podere Prasiano on the back of this post so I have to say thank you for bringing it to our attention - it was lovely! The house itself is gorgeous and sympathetically converted farmhouse with amazing views and beautiful surrounding countryside. Obviously however, we are here to talk about the food. The owner and chef Emanuella is extremely proud of the regions produce and, as expected, this shines through in the food provided. Pretty much everything from yogurts for breakfast to parmesan/cured meats antipasto is from the locals farms and Emanuella also makes her own jam from fruit on the grounds as well as some lovely sparkling wines. We ate dinner two nights at the house - highlights being a tagliettele with very nicely seasoned and full flavoured ragu, tortelloni with spinach and local ricotta and a selection of lovely antipasti. Breakfast as well was worth a mention - a huge array of meats/cheeses/cakes/yogurts/honey/jams/freshly made plum juice all fresh and local - absolutely lovely. Can't recommend enough! We also spent a morning at a local organic parmesan producer which comes recommended (organised by the agriturismo). mjgauer Wed, 09 May 2012 16:11:56 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/770914#7329265 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848170#7328433 Yes, it was Da Fiore in San Polo. carluccio Wed, 09 May 2012 03:04:07 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848170#7328433 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/841352#7326461 It is always cheaper at the winery, but a lot of the time not by much. The wineries in the Montalcino area have a number of price points for selling. The cheapest price point is to the local retailers who buy year after year, good vintages and bad, and are their close friends and neighbors. A much higher price point is for US importers. Sort of like Venice restaurants which are notorious for this. Many, if not most, have prices for locals and then prices for non locals. allende Tue, 08 May 2012 13:30:03 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/841352#7326461 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/797918#7325401 And where else did you eat? allende Mon, 07 May 2012 21:21:14 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/797918#7325401 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848091#7325104 I've been reading all the threads about dining in Florence and Rome and they're really informative. However, I'll be traveling with my mom who has never been to Europe. We'll be spending 3 nights in both cities. I know she won't be comfortable in anything too high end, and I think she might like places where at least one person speaks some english (I speak a very limited amount of Italian). I don't mind "touristy" if the food is good. We'll be staying at a hotel next to the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Any recommendations for a restaurant close to the hotel, especially for dinner the first night we're there? In Rome, We'll be staying close to Trevi fountain. Any recommendations for places in that area would be appreciated. Is Colline Emiliane a good restaurant? And one last question; over here, I almost always have the concierge make reservations for dinner because we seem to get in more places (plus, that's what they're there for). Is it better to get reservations through the hotels in Florence and Rome or try to do it before you actually travel? Thanks for the advice. meljohns Mon, 07 May 2012 19:18:54 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848091#7325104 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847951#7324199 Would love to help you, but this topic has been discussed a lot on the board already. If you look, I think you'll find many listings of places to eat in Puglia. www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com minchilli Mon, 07 May 2012 10:15:13 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847951#7324199 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/796965#7323480 You should be sure, since the topic of this post is the Hostaria Nerone. Look, there are several classes of dining for a tourist in Rome. Some people are here for the food -- well, good luck to you, since other regions of Italy are much more famous for cuisine. Sure, there is classic Roman food, but you have to pay for it, or go a bit further out of town. The city center caters to tourists, bureaucrats and the working classes. You get what you can take. For me -- and I would wager, many Hounds who end up in Rome -- you have a few meals you can splurge on, but also many meals where you just need to eat something, for example, en route from the Coliseum to S. Pietro in Vincoli, where Da Nerone is located. The restaurant is fine for what it is -- not a destination meal, but simply a better than average place at the right spot at decent prices. I feel compelled to give notice here: Attention, tourists in Rome! Yes -- you can have a totally respectable meal here that you will not regret with a minimum of fuss and damage to your wallet. foodmonk Sun, 06 May 2012 21:24:59 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/796965#7323480 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847360#7322960 In terms of toddler friendliness, there are always tons of kids at Perilli at lunch. If anything, it's the most relaxed of the bunch. Piperno has a great outdoor space, but is a much fancier situation, and more expensive. Flavio is great, and would be fine with a toddler too. But really, Perilli is family friendly. minchilli Sun, 06 May 2012 15:54:51 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847360#7322960 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847431#7321620 As others have said, I would eat outside Alba, Il Centro in Priocca always gets good reviews, Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso if you want to splash instead of Il Duomo, I also like Rabaja in Barbaresco. Haven't been to Da Bardon, although we tried many years ago but it was summer closing, but I would trust Allende's reviews. Also Al Enoteca in Canale is very good and we have gotten rave reviews from gourmet guests of the new La Rei restaurant near Serralunga, who went there twice. Villasampaguita Sat, 05 May 2012 17:09:20 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847431#7321620 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847449#7321207 Elizabeth, thanks for all of your help in planning. We used your apps in Rome and Florence and found it really helpful. Thanks again. DaisyM Sat, 05 May 2012 11:01:23 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847449#7321207 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847432#7321204 I hope to come to Philly and have fun cooking with you! ciao! GRAZIEEEEE!!! gigliocooking Sat, 05 May 2012 10:47:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847432#7321204 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846073#7321193 The pasta was on the specials board and we were told all of the pastas were for two.. Though we were only considering the specials. I knew because the tables had the names on them and as we walked in he checked a table by the door and that had my name on it, then he led us further in. Total was 85 euros. daily_unadventures Sat, 05 May 2012 09:54:44 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846073#7321193 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847685#7320044 A fellow hound particularly wants feedback from those who are most familiar with Italy on her request for Italian cookbooks to help recapture the magic. Please check out her thread here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847666#7319734 The Chowhound Team Fri, 04 May 2012 18:15:01 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847685#7320044 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846743#7318768 What a great review, loved reading it. All this makes me so excited about my upcoming trip (less than two weeks away!) The discussion about under/overcooked vegetables is quite interesting. Living and growing up in the southern part of America, all veggies were cooked to be soft AND well seasoned. Still love that taste. This discussion reminds me of comparing green beans cooked with bacon and onions until the very soft beans absorb the flavor of both. Or small tender green beans sauteed in oil and butter, still very crisp and sweet. They are both delicious, just two completely different tastes. noradailey Fri, 04 May 2012 01:27:13 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846743#7318768 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847448#7318300 I was on Capri for a day trip a couple of weeks ago and had a lovely lunch at Aurora. My husband had insalata caprese followed by riso a sartu, and I had a plate of grilled vegetables, then torta di pasta (the pasta was formed into a cake, coated with breadcrumbs and fried, then sauced with zucchini). Capri is, of course, not inexpensive, but we thought the food was delicious and the servers friendly at Aurora. We'd certainly go back. lisaonthecape Thu, 03 May 2012 21:57:26 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847448#7318300 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/838137#7317688 it must have been a big effort to keep that effort going, and people do get older. Still, the books carry such a feeling of energy. its good that they wrote them to portray that type of life. jen kalb Thu, 03 May 2012 18:22:19 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/838137#7317688 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847028#7317115 More about the wineries you visited and the names of the particular wines you preferred? erica Thu, 03 May 2012 14:42:42 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847028#7317115 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846925#7316724 Most eating places around the Frari are informal cafes and such. One of the better option of this type is Muro Vino e Cucina Frari (just 2 minute walk), a comtemporary space with large menu of pizza, antipasti, primi, salads; good but nothing earth shattering. Better options are about 10 minute stroll up to Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio where there are Alla Zucca and il Refolo. Aside from pizza, Il Refolo has a few good vegetarian antipasti and primi options; should be able to do lunch without a reservation. Better if you have your hotel call that morning. Also good near San Marco are Osteria Enoteca San Marco. Despite being so near to the mob scene, it has a front wine bar serving good ciccheti and back dining room. Not inexpensive but they are serious about food. Also Osteria ai Assassini, similar but more traditional and less expensive. If you are considering da Alberto the first night, I would make a reservation as it is small and always packed. If you are taking the 4:30 train, make sure to allow plenty of time. Things always take longer for first time visitors. A five minute walk can turn into 30 minutes if one takes a wrong turn. Cp Santa Maria Formosa is not the most convenient for the vaporetto and quite a long walk to Santa Lucia. Unless you are lunching near your hotel or taking the water taxi, I would finish lunch no later than 2;30. PBSF Thu, 03 May 2012 06:27:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846925#7316724