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All-Inclusives that don't suck...

MRS — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:51:02 GMT

1000% the Grand Velas resort in Riviera Maya!!! I had never been to an all-inclusive before, and was very skeptical when my husband said were going there. My MIL is a travel agent and she has never had an unhappy client there. It is spectacular to see and the food and drink was terrific, free-flowing and very upscale. We were thrilled by all aspects of the resort and most impressively, the food/ restaurants. People from outside of the hotel come there at night to dine. The service was impeccable and the choices were tremendous. Plus, the in-room dining was top notch as well.

9+ days in Mexico City: The Trip Report

kukubura — Mon, 14 May 2012 22:39:39 GMT

Good to know about the sitios. I saw the one next to the cathedral but it was so jammed up with doubledecker tour buses I thought it was connected to that. Either way, your metro system is fantastic. For those who want to see lots of pictures of beautiful Mexican food, some photo-filled posts are up at tastytrix.com There's a section in the sidebar with links to the trip reports.

Baking supplies in Mexico City

gueraaven — Mon, 14 May 2012 06:15:14 GMT

Check it out! That's great, but expensive. I've got a few more tips for anyone else following this thread... - Central Gourmet near the Polanco Costco has several kinds of Gold Medal flours and cake flour - a few places, including my local organic store in Condesa, have a limited selection of Bob's. Mostly rye, rice, and soy flours for now. Sometimes buckwheat. No luck on 00 flour yet.

What's "in season" in Mexico during the month of May?

gueraaven — Mon, 14 May 2012 05:51:34 GMT

Mangos are in season, as well as asparagus. Mushrooms usually come in late June after the rains start, but this year maybe they will be early? (the mushroom lady is Doña Guadalupe). It's also the beginning of the v. short pitaya season in Jalisco - they may bring some over to Mexico City for sale? It's a cactus fruit with small seeds like a dragon fruit, but is not a dragon fruit (pitahaya, also cultivated here). I love them on a hot day - white ones the best. The red ones are truly beautiful, but they have my least favorite flavor.

My Top Picks For Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner in Cozumel

jezabelrabbit — Sun, 13 May 2012 04:04:37 GMT

Just got back from two weeks in Cozumel. Although we enjoyed a few nights out at some of the more foodie spots on the island, the highlights being Le Chef and Kinta, my preference is for casual places serving local comfort food. Here are my picks: Breakfast (also open for lunch) Tonita's A.R.Salas halfway between Ave. 10 and Ave. 15. It will be on the left hand side of the street if you are walking away from the ocean. Friendly little restaurant that never seems to get crowded. You will probably be the only tourist. The menu is primarily traditional Mexican, but sometimes the daily specials are Mayan. Some people say that Tonita makes the best guacamole in town. I also enjoy the aguas frescas which are made from fresh fruit. Limited English. Lunch: Sabores Ave. 5 between Calle 3 and Calle 5 This is a private home that has been converted into a restaurant. There is indoor seating but we preferred to eat at one of the shaded tables set up in the backyard. We sat under a canopy which provided welcome shade on a hot day, and also saved us from a sudden rainstorm. We ate here twice and both times the food was very good and reasonably priced. Like the other restaurants on my list, the food at Sabores is traditional Mexican with a few regional specialties. Nothing innovative, just fresh food that's well prepared. English spoken. Dinner: El Moro (I don't know where it is, but all the cab drivers do) I'm so curious about the origins of this Cozumel institution. How did it get so well known? It's a $4.00 cab ride from the Centro, but all the customers are tourists. The atmosphere is a little hokey, as are some of the patrons, but we enjoyed it. The menu is extensive and lists some dishes I'd never heard of which I suspect may be El Moro creations. I ordered one of the unfamiliar dishes (can't remember the name, unfortunately) which the server described as chicken cooked with chorizo and vegetables in a Mexican sauce. Sadly, "chorizo" turned out to be pieces of hotdog. My meal reminded me of something concocted from leftovers. Not good. Luckily, my less adventurous companions had chosen to order familiar dishes and their food was excellent. My husband ordered Beef Tampico which is what I'd had for lunch earlier in the day at La Choza, another restaurant that's very popular with tourists. Although I teased him lightly for copying me, it turned out to be a great choice. I'm glad we had both meals in the same day because it really highlighted how much better the food was at El Moro. La Choza's version was flavorful but tough. In contrast, El Moro's meat was tender and perfectly cooked. I also had a few bites of the Chicken Mole our friend ordered. I'm not a huge mole fan, but this one was amazing. It was very rich, and thicker than the moles I've had before. Truly chocolate-like, but without the undertone of sweetness that usually keeps me away from mole. Light Dinner or Nighttime Snack: Tres Gatitos Calle 7, just up from Avenue 10 (hard to miss, just look for the big sign with three kittens on it) This place is awesome. As far as we can tell, it's run by two grandmas and their elderly brother, along with various family members, some of whom don't look that happy to be working. Family squabbles occasionally break out, and the service can be quite slow. Like Sabores, Tres Gatitos doubles as the owner's home. But here, the kitchen is located in the carport and the seating is where the front yard should be. The menu is small, and features homemade soup, tortas and some finger foods. The soup has a chicken base and is obviously made with love. The "Especiale" version includes a little meat. One night the meat was liver. Not being a liver fan, I snuck all the pieces into the bowl of my obliging husband. The Panuchos are a yummy little snack, sort of a mini chicken tostada on a chewy fried tortilla. There are also Sabores which we liked even better. Same thing as the Panuchos, but served on fried bread, they're greasy and delicious. For desert there are little dixie cups filled with flan. Tres Gatito's version is more liquid and custard-y than what I'm accustomed to. I'm a fan : ) To those with delicate stomachs: Although I'm prone to stomach ailments, I have never had a problem with any of these restaurants. Even Tres Gatitos with it's rustic kitchen set-up seems quite clean. Happy Eating : )

Best restaurants in Puerto Vallarta in 2012?

call5105 — Mon, 07 May 2012 18:14:32 GMT

Thought I would post our PV dining experiences here since I used these boards a great deal to decide which restaurants to visit. We stayed in the marina but ate in town a lot, so i broke this down by location and ranked each restaurant within the location. Marina: 1. Victors Cafe - very good, basic Mexican fare. The real fun is the fact that you get a tequila shot with each drink ordered, and usually Victor comes over to do a shot with you. He's very charming and fun to chat with. We had two entrees and one drinks each (didn't need much more with the two shots of tequila plus the complementary after dinner drink) and two entrees for about $40 US inclusive of tip. We had the beef tacos and Mexican plate. The tacos were very basic, served with guacamole, cilantro and onion, but very tasty. The Mexican plate is a great meal, filet (really more like a hanger steak but well seasoned), a taquito, and enchilada and a stuffed pepper. With the chips they give, it was plenty of food and tasty. Note: this place is cash only. 2. Porto Bella - good change of pace to have Italian food. The starters (bruschetta and caprese salad) were both great, very fresh, good sized portions and tons of flavor. We then had the linguine with shrimp and clams, which was reportedly delicious (I don't eat seafood so had to take his word for it). I had the tricolored pasta, basically tricolored rigatoni with grilled chicken, arugula and asparagus. The pasta was very good, perfectly al dente. The chicken also good, I didn't get much asparagus but what I had wasn't as fresh as I would have liked. It was all in a pink sauce, not a vodka sauce, a bit thicker and darker. It was tasty, but a heavy dish. Finished up with a gelato (pretty authentic) and an espresso. All that plus two drinks and service was just under $75. Probably a bit pricey for what we had (compared to other places we've ate) but not a disappointment. Breakfast/Lunch - Coffee Cup - great spot for takeout or eat-in. Super casual, super cheap. We each had a burrito with cheese, eggs and sausage and it was delicious. Coffee was definitely better than what we have at the hotel, and for less than $10, the perfect spot for a cheap, good breakfast. Breakfast - Mr Cream - great spot. In and out very quickly, but we weren't rushed. We had the chorizo scrambler (I live chorizo so rarely have a bad thing to say about it) which was very good, also had chilaquiles with green sauce and a fried egg, which I loved. I love a good chilaquiles so was very happy. Both dishes were great. Food came out amazingly fast (almost scary how fast) but was fresh, tasty and filling, just like a good breakfast should be. And the price was perfect. The two entrees with coffee and two small juices came in just around $20. El Centro/Zona Romantica 1. Cafe des artistes - fantastic. The ambiance (we sat in the garden) and the service could not be beat. The food was also wonderful. We started with tuna tartare and duck confit chilaquiles. Can't comment on the tuna, but I can say there was not a bit left on the plate when my husband was done and he loved it. The chilaquiles had great flavor. My only complaint was that the tortilla strips in it were soggy when it arrived, but that's a small complaint. The favors all came together and it was great. We then shared the tomato soup, delicious. It was just slight spicy and slightly smokey, incredibly smooth in texture and the corn added great flavor. For our main courses, we did the fish of the day (a grouper served with enchiladas) and the beef petals. Again, can't comment on the fish dish except that once again, not a bite was left on the plate. The beef dish was surprisingly good. It was a thinly sliced beef, perfectly tenderized and seasoned. Usually those alternative cuts of meat are flavorless and tough, but this was the opposite. It was served over a camembert cheese and chipotle sauce, which was really tasty. Not a single complaint about either dish. With five drinks and service, the total was only $105 which was awesome. We had totally expected to pay more, and for a level of service and food in our hometown of Philadelphia, we would easily pay twice that. Also worth noting it has been rated the number one restaurant in Mexico for 2011/2012. 2. Daquari Dicks - great. Great location, superb service, and surprisingly good food (which you don't expect given the name of the place). We started with the calamari and shrimp appetizer, which was fine...breaded in cornmeal rather than flour which was a nice surprise. Then we had the black bean soup, which was creamy and delicious and the arugula salad. More Bibb lettuce than arugula, but very good none-the-less. Finally, we had a half order of the spare ribs and the pork special. The ribs were great, the meat fell of the bone, was drenched in (maybe a bit too much) of a really nice savory yet slightly spicy sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and cooked carrots. The pork was a special, a well cooked, juicy pork loin in a green curry sauce with jasmine rice. Lots of heat, but delicious. We finished it up with a key lime pie to share and an espresso. The great view of the sunset really helped make the meal. All of the food, plus two drinks each and tip, came in just over $90 US and was well worth it. 3. Barcelona Tapas overall fine. The view is great for the sunset (albeit the final moments of sunset are blocked by a building). The food was good, larger than normal tapas size, we had 5 plates and were very full. We had the Spanish tortilla to start, very good. Served warm, as opposed to room temp as I've often had it before. The aioli it comes with is very good. Then we had the pork and beef brochettes. The pork was very tough, definitely overcooked, but add in the accompaniments and it was fine. The beef was not particularly flavorful on its own, but combined with the carmelized onions and aioli was really tasty. The next two courses were the eggplant and the goat cheese. The eggplant was great, melted in your mouth. The goat cheese dish was almost like a large slice of goat cheese in a tomato soup, very tasty, but not phenomenal. We had two drinks each and with service. The total was about $60. All in all. Not a bad meal. 4. Eldorado - great spot, great view, eat with your feet in the sand, just steps from the ocean. We were mixed on the food...the appetizer (duck carnitas) was great, then we had the lime tequila chicken fajita which was quite good. I had the beef medallion, which was just ok. It was kind of a strange cut of beef, almost brisket like, and cooked medium rare, which is ok for me on a filet but not so much on other cuts. The lunch menu is more varied and may be the way to go here, both variety and price-wise. Again, the place itself is really cool and has great ambiance, the food is fine but not great. Two apps (also had guac and chips), a soup, two entrees and three drinks plus service was just about $75. On a side note, we never found the street tacos I was looking for, specifically tacos al pastore...we ended up having them for lunch at the Vista Vallarta golf club and they were fantastic. I did not expect a good meal, but there was a perfect combo of pork and pineapple on good tortillas.

Cancun Recommendations on Blvd Kukulcan (Hotel Zone)

theblackcrab — Sun, 06 May 2012 23:39:04 GMT

If you are still in Cancun, you must head to Peter's Restaurant, @ the foot of the hotel zone, before el Centro, a few hundred yards north(right) on Bonampok, just off of Kukulcan. It's on the left, so you will have to go past it to the "retorno". I've been vacationing in Cancun since the 70's, this place is fairly new, small, and severely underpriced for the fine dining experience you will have. Don't be surprised when Peter and his wife, Claudia, come to your table to learn what you prefer, and to make you feel like special guests. Local, Seafood, fine meats, and international fare, all prepared with care for you, by this wonderful chef. Go now, while you can still get a table! You won't be disappointed.

Memorable meal in Playa del Carmen recs?

dwl773 — Tue, 01 May 2012 17:09:44 GMT

Thanks. ComoComo has confirmed our group. We aren't looking for mediocre food and music. But thanks for playing.

Oaxaca City recommendations needed

DiningDiva — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 01:23:43 GMT

I think you've spelled her name incorrectly. She's on FB as iliana de la Vega. Try that and see if that gets her

New Tapas Bar Opening in Rosarito Tomorrow

Gypsy Jan — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 02:14:10 GMT

Ruben's Palm Grill and Sports Bar in Cantamar is open and doing a thriving business. Terrific Sunday brunch buffet. Since I posted that notice about the tapas bar in the old Las Gaviotas location, I haven't noticed any activity, but I do not go by that location very often. If you are looking for great places to eat near Las Gaviotas, besides Ruben's Palm Grill, I would recommend Ollie's Pizza and Splash restaurant.

Cabo San lucas and San Jose del cabo Restaurant recommendation...

9lives — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:45:20 GMT

When I'm not cutting my own, yellowtail, tuna and sierra mackeral are abundant, I prefer Sushi Art to Nik San. It's smaller and more personal with excellent quality . Used to be a fan of Nik San..but gave up on it a few years ago. At Sushi Art, I let the owner pick the dishes and I've always been very pleased. We're considering Flora Farm next year. I'm on their Facebook page (recommended) and looks great...although a little difficult to get to.

CABO SAN LUCAS RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A FOODIE FAMILY OF 7 (WITH KIDS)

dwl773 — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:56:34 GMT

WE loved Flora's with our kids on our last trip. Highly recommend. Very pricey though. Quality was impeccable.

Truly Great Paella in Mexico City?

Anonimo — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 12:16:01 GMT

Update on paella at El Cabrito Astur: We dined in this charming cellar restaurant and bar on Friday evening. The service was very attentive. I loved the room. To start, we shared two platters of their signature cabrito asado. It was tasty if bony. Our friend said that it was much better than he had had at El Regiomontano, on Calle Luis Moya. The paella Astur or alternately called "Cantábrica" takes up to an hour to prepare. It was very attractive and although pleasant to eat, I felt that it was lacking something. It contained large prawns in the shell, clams, mussels, (both clams and mussells in the shell), chorizo (the chorizos were the least interesting to me.) and vegetables such as sweet peppers, green beans and small pieces of artichoke hearts. Overall, it was a very pleasant dinner, but I will still be looking for the perfect paella.

Desperately Seeking Cookies

adcab1103 — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:52:05 GMT

I too have been recently searching for these cookies, but the Roscas cookes are not the right cookies as they are not iced. The doughnut shaped cookies were more like a ring-shaped gingerbread cookie w/icing. I've recently asked some friends from the border towns and they don't remember this cookie at all. ;( I fear they don't make them any more.

cabo san lucas

chickanika — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 14:20:41 GMT

any good restaurants in Cabo?

Torta de Chilaquiles

veryconsumista — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 01:32:56 GMT

I was thinking about those today! I've lived in DF all my life, and I only got to try those a couple of years ago when I did some work with a group based at Condesa. I couldn't believe I let two decades of my life pass before I tried them! They may not be good for your palate, but I think that the reason why your wife was offended is that that torta embodies the concept of 'comfort food' for us. And I'm being totally serious there. I asked this woman why she prepares tortas like that, or how she came up with the concept to begin with. She said that, when she decided to start selling food for a living, she realized that there were too many people selling tamales in the area, and she started thinking of other types of food she could sell for breakfast. She says she immediately thought of her favorite tortas from childhood: breaded chicken, and chilaquiles with lime juice. So, why not? She put them together.

Good eats in the area of Solidaridad (near Playa del Carmen)?

porker — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 20:29:57 GMT

"I won't comment on where the shrimp come from" - Haha!

Zocalo, Mexico City

Anonimo — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:00:30 GMT

Thank you, Cristina.

9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!

cristina — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 00:32:31 GMT

Pujol is very different from Dulce Patria, just as cacti are very different from gladiola. IMHO, one restaurant is harder-edge than the other, just as one plant is spinier than the other. I have nothing whatsoever against Pujol, I simply prefer Dulce Patria. Link: http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Mexico City market tour- any new suggestions

nohurry — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:51:42 GMT

"La Lagunilla" is the big, sprawling Flea Market on Sundays. Years ago I had MENUDO at a famous food stand in MERCADO MERCED that only had one item on the menu...I've forgotten the name of it but they have T-shirts and coffee cups with their logo on them and apparently are quite well known. The menudo is served in small, medium, or large folkloric black bowls...as I was somewhat new to menudo, I ordered the small size. It was fantastic, and my happy smile must have convey'd that to the chef, who proceeded to ladle out several additional servings to me [on the house] with limes, onions, and tortillas! This place is not to be missed!!! Take it from one who knows,

Hacienda Cerritos

Mariana in Baja — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:14:22 GMT

In TS MIguels makes good local food at cheap prices. If you want taco stands, for fish, turn right on the truck route as you enter town - second stand on your right. Or Barajas if you like pork or Tacos Georges for good fish and camarones. Pick up a calendario - now called journal del pacifico and everything is there on the map. Be sure to go to Palm Beach - the most beautiful spot. Punto Lobos is fishermen's beach if you want to see the fishing boats come in at 3:00. The cultural center in TS will give you a bit of the history of the region. Wandering is the favorite local past time. Enjoy

Playa 's current best restaurants and chefs ?

stevewag23 — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 21:50:24 GMT

Great thread. Has there been any new updates?

Cafe des Artistes Puerto Vallarta Package. Is it good?

redskins123 — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:20:46 GMT

Thanks a lot! I did call Cafe des Artistes and they told me it was OK. I will make sure to report how everything goes!

Playa del Carmen-5 nights

porker — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:14:45 GMT

Is Pollo Bronco the only one left? Seems there was a half dozen roadside Tulum-chicken joints.

Back From Tulum

benila — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 23:49:39 GMT

good to know thank you. Have you been back to either El Tabano or Pollo Bronco since your visit in 2009?

Looking for craft beer in Puerto Vallarta

Kathleen is Cooking in Mexico — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 14:40:46 GMT

Thank you for the thread link.

Merida

DiningDiva — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 01:22:55 GMT

The Slow Food Market has relocated. If you can give me a bit, I can find the new address and post it.

Searching for a recipe/ inspiration

dreamers50 — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 20:00:15 GMT

Good Afternoon! I visited Akumul, Mexico last year and at a restaurant there had a great seafood queso dip. Since I have gotten home I have searched for recipes, but can't seem to find anything... is this a dish that folkshave made before and could offer any inspiration for a recipe of sorts? Thanks, Hannah

Best eats in Cozumel? Specifically San Miguel

Enigma3 — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 16:54:51 GMT

The Marine Park has sponsored lionfish hunts. Right now there is a post on Scubaboard under Cozumel from an avid spearfisherman. He used "Spearfishing Cozumel" to take him fishing. Triggers, snapper, barracuda, lionfish. If you search "spearfishing" on the Cozumel board you'll find lots of posts on the subject. That said, you can only spear lionfish in the Park. I have been to La Perlita on more than one occasion when someone brought in recently speared lionfish for their eating pleasure. Lionfish are really yummy.

Azucena Zapoteca - San Martin Tilcajete, Oaxaca

DiningDiva — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 03:12:21 GMT

Azucena Zapoteca is a fabulous, not so little restaurant on the highway between Oaxaca City and Ocotlan. Opened in 2004, it is the brain child and labor of love of Jacobo and Maria Angeles and has gotten progressively better each time I've eaten there. Jacobo is a wood carver from the village of San Martin Tilcajete and is an acknowledged Grand Master at his craft. Maria is a master painter and wonderful cook. Together they've become a power couple promoting not only they're work, but that of their neighbors, other village carvers, and the crafts of other Mexican states. The road to San Martin Tilcajete is part of a "T" intersection off the main road between Oaxaca City and Ocotlan. And trust me when I say, you can't miss it. There is a ginormous freeway sign over the road announcing the turn off, and the restaurant is a large complex on the left side of the road (if driving from Oaxaca City to Ocotlan) a few hundred feet past the overhead freeway sign. As you drive into the parking lot, you'll notice a large, not to be missed, gift shop to the right, a tented area to your left with local artesans selling their crafts and a bright red agua fresca wagon at that base of the steps leading into the restaurant. Seating is inside or outside, and if the weather is nice, outside is always preferable as there is usually a breeze, even on the swelteringly hot days of the dry season. Once seated and settled in, the staff usually comes around and offers a small, complimentary, serving of mescal to sip on while reviewing the surprisingly large menu. Azucena Zapoteca open for breakfast and offers 2 pages of breakfast options from the tried and try fruit and yogurt, and egg dishes to less traditional fare. But since most people come for comida, the midday meal, that makes up the bulk of the menu. The tlayuda here is the traditional oversized tortilla that isn't pressed until order, then baked on the comal in the open air grill area. It can be ordered with or without meat, but it will always come with well seaoned and perfectly smooth black beans, quesillo, that wonderfully flavorful melting cheese of Oaxaca, and usually some cotija or queso fresco crumbled in for good measure. Cecina, tasajo, chicken and, if I recall correctly, beef can be added if desired. Because tlayudas are typically large, they make a great appetizer for a table to share. Another tasty snack are the memlitas. Hot off the grill, they are fresh, oblong tortillas dabbed with that most wonderful and seductive of fats, asiento...those teeny, tiny, dark brown crumbs and bits at the bottom of the pot after lard has been rendered and poured off. Topped off with that great black bean puree and more crumbled queso fresco, all they need is a spoonful or two of the mildly hot table salsa. They come 3 to an order and are another great appetizer to share. The menu does change every so often, and I can't guarantee that these will still be on the menu as they may have been a dish for Lent. But if the Bocaditos de Papa are on the menu, do not hesitate...order them. 3 potato croquettes about the size of the palm of a hand are offered up with a good salsa, pico de gallo and guacamole. There may be 3 to an order, but the person ordering it may not be so willing to share as they are sublimely good. Crunchy exterior, creamy interior and virtually greaseless, and at $55 pesos (about $4.50) they're quite a good bargain. The entree menu offers the usual Oaxacan suspects, a quite respectable year round version of chiles en nogada, a short selection of Zapotec specialties and a few items that are only offered a couple times a week. The mole negro and coloradito are both very good renditions. The estofada was deemed good but a bit too vinegary. The pescado frito, fried fish, was spectacular. Fresh, tender and greaseless the large filete came with a salad of thin, curly straws of raw carrot, jicama and beet. Three items from the Zapotec Specialties page of the menu are worth some investigation. Azucena Zapoteca is a longtime favorite and the restaurants' signature dish. A big squash bloosom is stuffed with a big hunk of quesillo and strips of local vegetables, then dipped in a capeado batter (same thing that's used for chile relleno), lightly fried, served on a pool of tomatillo sauce and topped with a ladle of mole negro and finished with fresh squash bloosom petals and a squiggle of crema. It is a visually stunning dish, but equally delicious to eat. Pajarito Zapoteca and Alcatraz Zapoteca are 2 versions of the same dish. Pajarito is tasajo wrapped around quesillo and chiles, while the Alcatraz is cecina wrapped around quesillo and chiles. Both come in the same pool of tomatillo sauce that the Azucena Zapoteca does, as well as the same mole capper. One of the Sunday specials are the Costillas al Horno, oven baked pork ribs. Oh, but what ribs they are!! Meaty ribs are seasoned lightly with an adobo then wrapped with avocado and banana leaves, the leaves said to absorb the excess pork fat essentially wicking it away from the meat. The horno is a wood fired, adobe oven and gives new meaning to the "low and slow" cooking process. The ribs go into it early in the morning and dont' come out until they've reached the fall off the bone tender stage 5 or 6 hours later. They come with some onions that have clearly been roasted with the meat, carrots, an incidiarily hot roasted chile de agua and that ubiquitous black bean puree. The plate is garnished with chepil the distinctive Oaxacan herb so that it can be tucked into tortillas along with the meat for tasty little tacos. I was at Azucena Zapoteca on Good Friday as well as on Easter Sunday. I've eaten there before on other trips to Oaxaca and this restaurant just keeps getting better and better. The food is good, most of it locally grown and sourced. The service is good, the staff friendly and well trained. They do their best to make you feel welcome and really want you to like their food, which I do very much. Friday is market day in Ocotlan, and it is a good market, definitely worth the trek out there. Azucena Zapoteca is about midway between Oaxaca City and Ocotlan and a natural stopping place. Do stop, do check out the gift shop (and the very clean bathrooms ) and do stop and enjoy some of the most surprisingly good food in the Oaxaca area.

Very very good Cabo San Lucas Breakfast FOUND!

reeveb — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 17:34:33 GMT

We made it a mission this time to uncover the best mexican breakfast in Cabo, there are a lot of runner's up. Panchos, Mama's the revamped place in Mar de Cortez all have their merits (but with all due respect....do you see locals eating at any of these?). I can speak just enough Spanish to get by and so I started by asking everyone I could, the taxi drivers, the maids, the security guards at the hotel,s anyone who was native to Mexico where they thought the "mejor desayuno" was in Cabo. Not surprisingly the answers led us away from the hotel strip, but never more than a good walk or taxi cab ride from the beach. So here, my fellow Chowhounders are the top two: Restaurant Campestre: Any tourist walks in here and you'll still get a few glances...not a "what are you doing here?" look of distain but rather a .."hey check it out a gringo found real food!" followed by a smile...and there a LOT of smiles here...happy Mexicans. Kids, grandparents, cops, all order of locals and the occasional crunchy expat that forgot how to speak English. But don't worry, the efficient staff will scramble and find you one of the translated menus. Nothing fancy in the restaurants courtyard like setting but clean tables, clean kitchen, clean bathrooms, all purified water and ice and, most importantly... g r e a t food...Our favorite here was the classic Juevos con Chorizo..a huge plate of fresh eggs scrambled with fresh mexican sausage, more tortillas that you can eat in a week and fabulous roasted tomato salsa. Order a side of Queso fresco to crumble on top and you are in heaven. (And fellows foodies you KNOW what I mean...not just good...but OMFG good...good like you take that first bite and you look at each other and nod and sigh and just melt-- because yes we are PICKY and we are DISCERNING and we want the BEST and god damn it sometimes you hit it. We both had fresh fruit shakes as well and the total (with generous tip) was $12.00 . This is about a 18 block walk up Hidalgo from the marina or grab a cab. Closed Sunday but open evey other day at 8am.. Tortillaria "El Mexicano"": So if that was an adventure and authentictity level you can handle and you want to up the ante then stay with with me. Now we are going to Anthony Bourdain land, but at least as of this writing...he's hasn't been there yet. Get in a cab or your rental car and once again go North out of town on Hidalgo ...when that hits (hwy to Todos Santos) make a move to get into the right lane...follow this until just before you see the "Soriana" giant grocery store,and take a right here. Now go for approx 1.5 miles - another way to gauge is it you will go through about three of those huge speed bumps ...take this road until it goe down into an arroyo (riverbed) and they climbs back out...one more speed bump and start looking for a BRIGHT yellow bakery on your left ...you cannot miss it...once you see that bakery with or without bread in the window (depending on what time of day you go) get ready to take you next immediate right and park anywhere on the at street. Just to the right tucked in you will behold Tortillaria "El Mexicano" They are making real corn tortillas...grinding the corn...adding just enough water...kneading by hand...rolling into a little ball...pressing flat and then bam onto the huge hot griddle (comal) - you can get tacos, quesadilla, empanda all with various fillings made right before your eyes. You will see local after local come up just to buy then uncooked tortilla mix so they can take it home. Everything we had here was spine tinglingly good and fresh. Again, bathroom is very clean and premises were as meticulous as you could get. I hope some are of are adventurous enough to check these out - please report back if you do! ~ Reeve & Debora - Seattle, WA

Playa's Epicurian Chef Services

andym — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 18:00:11 GMT

Anybody ever try Epicurian Chef Services in Playa Del Carmen? I found them online on Tripadvisor ( a hiusband and wife who prepare a meal and drinks for you at you condo) and they were very highly rated on that site by all who had them come and prepare a meal for them. Since Chowhound probably has a more disciminating readership than Tripadvisor, I am very curious if any Chowhounds have used this company, how they liked the chefs and if there any suggestions for us, as to meals or other decisions. THANKS CHOWHOUNDS!

Cooking Classes in Oaxaca

helenhelen — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 05:05:41 GMT

i posted this review of a cooking class i took in oaxaca recently: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=2172288

Mail Order Artisan Products

Veggo — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 23:27:47 GMT

It is very difficult to send anything other than a flat envelope from Mexico, and some of those don't make it. Those that do can take weeks. DHL and FedEx are very expensive from Mexico, and are delayed by customs scrutiny.

San Miguel de Allende Restaurants

kak — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 20:46:48 GMT

The view from the rooftop bar, La Luna, is great, but not worth a 95 peso glass of wine!

Bakeries in San Miguel de Allende

jonigor — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 19:51:54 GMT

Petit Four has beautiful, beautiful desserts but many (most) aren't fabulous tasting. I would pick and choose carefully. Their apple cream tart is delicious. Some chocolate desserts are not. Cookies look good but I can't speak about them except to say I never had one that I loved. So, before you order, see if you can taste different ones. Jason at Cafe Rama makes some good desserts. Costly, but good. Kris at Buen Cafe makes a good mocha cake. Not special looking, but very good. (Probably she could doll it up!) Melissa at Buena Vida has good scones, some good cookies. I've never seen a cake there, though. Happy wedding. You've picked a great town!

he No-Name Cart Outside the El Jefe Minimarket in Primo Tapia, Twelve Miles South of Rosaruto

Gypsy Jan — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 02:23:00 GMT

On my visits to the market, I had noticed a cart outside with several customers standing around waiting for the goodness. The chef cooks on a charcoal grill and serves tacos and other items. He is especially proud of his "Papas Locas" A half of a giant baked potato covered with butter, crema, carne asada and/or tripa. He was very busy, but we were able to chat a bit with him and his wife. They are Mexican-Americans from Fresno. While we were waiting, one of the guys you see pushing paleta (Popsicle) carts came up and our guy gave him a free meal. We took two orders to go - along with the decorated baked potatoes, he added a bag of guacamole, a bag of freshly made salsa, some radishes and sliced cucumber The papas locas was a full meal for the big eater in the house and I have leftovers for two more meals. The bill - $70 pesos or pretty near $6 U.S. If you are traveling through the area, I highly recommend stopping here for a good, fast, road food nosh. Just remember that the Cantamar gas station is still closed.

Puebla: Mercado de Sabores Poblanos

peterjwilliams51 — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 19:40:01 GMT

Thing is I am sure you could not go wrong, sanitized or not. In Mexico in general and in Puebla in particular they just won't stand for mediocre food (unlike here in Canada where food court meals are awful) For more food fun try the chalupas on Ninos Heroes or cemitas in the mercado

Puerto Escondido Report

peterjwilliams51 — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 19:35:57 GMT

Just back from a month in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. What with eating out being a big focus every day, we hit a lot of the places in town. Overall a great eating town due to the confluence of super ingredients, the Oaxacan tradition and some super great restaurant atmosphere. We ate three times at Espaidin which has far and away the best view and atmosphere of anywhere else in town. Different nights we had sierra and dorado, both excellent and served with a couple of different salsas. Its all about the fish in Puerto and Pascale on the beach really treats it with respect. The restaurant is located a stone's throw from where the lanchas land at dawn laden with the nights catch and they go down to personally select what the special fish of the day will be. Chef is French and no disrespect intended but a lot of the Mexican cooks overcook the fish ... just the way it is. At Pascale they listen to how you want it cooked and so I had perfectly seared tuna and dorado cooked medium. Best of all for me is sierra which is a mackerel like fish. Also had whole huachinango or red snapper at Junto al Mar which has a great sunset view too. Keeping with the view theme we ate a few times at Arco Iris hotel which has a lovely 2nd floor room overlooking the sea. They do a great job with traditional Oaxaca food like tlayudas and pozole. More than anything I enjoyed out of town trips and food in out of the way places. One day beside a remote waterfalls at La Reforma I was served a caldo de chacales by local women accompanied by hand made tortillas and a wonderful red salsa made with charred tomato and a very hot local chile. Chacales are crayfish and the caldo was super. Down the road from La Reforma at San Pedro Mixtepec we lunched at a simple comedor above the town square on caldo de pollo. In this type of place they just do soup right. Simple broth with a big old chicken leg in the middle plus coarsely chopped vegetables, a good hint of chile. Then they bring a plate with chopped onion, cilantro and jalapeno ... perfect along with more fresh tortillas. Another day we sat on the beach at Playa Agua Blanca and watched as they hauled a bag of oysters out of tidal pool then pounded, breaded and grilled them up just right. Another beach called Roca Blanca about 30KM out of town there is a row of palapa restaurants. Usually they are almost empty except for weekends. My favourite spot is the very first one run by Jose Galvan and family. Jose is a spear fisherman and so his fish is the freshest best fish you can imagine. They know their business and so take only what they need for each day. Again sierra is the star for me prepared in many different ways. But I couldn't stop eating tostadas de camarones. The shrimp are so sweet, never frozen and come from nearby Laguna de Chacagua. Simple with chopped tomato, chile and lettuce, an order of three cost about $4 and I couldn't finish it all. Lots more restaurants I haven't mentioned in Puerto, all in all a great eating town.

I Am the Reverse Coyote

Ringo Gato — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 06:33:42 GMT

Thanks to Bill Esparza's enthusiasm for Tijuana, I have been able to convince quite a few people to make Tijuana a dining destination. I have been going there for decades and my tales usually brought only blank stares from those I shared my experiences with. My wife and I have reservations Saturday for Mision 19, our second visit since last May. It is truly a gem but there are so many places to choose from that we could spend quite a lot of time eating our way from hole-in-the-wall to elegant restaurants. I first went to Tijuana as a 10 year old (way back in the 60s) when my sister took me (against our parents’ orders that she not cross the border with me) and we dined at Café La Especial on Revo. How could Mexican food be so good and so different from home (LA County, which had and has some great stuff)? The restaurant has since closed but the street level taco stand is still dishing out steamed tacos that are simple and irresistible. A few days later it was street food and restaurants on the beach in Ensenada. (My parents didn’t know for years that we went south against their wishes) In college at SDSU in the 70s, I didn’t cross the border to drink like my classmates but to eat. Who knew tamales could have fruit and nuts in them? Fish tacos? Had I been one-tenth as entrepreneurial as fellow alumnus, Jack Rubio (founder of Rubios who was inspired by simple Baja food to the point of starting a restaurant chain) I just wanted to go south for another taco. And tortas, one of the best from a restaurant in Tijuana that also had amazing, homemade flan… I have no idea where it was located, just somewhere I wandered into while dragging my children and mother along. Panchos in the suburb of La Gloria for the most incredible roasted chicken. In the 90s and 00s we started to find non-Mexican food, like La Tabena Espanol (which recently reopened after several years of absence and it is a good as ever). Later, we found Palmazul and we were introduced to the food of the peninsula in a classy yet whimsical setting. Quail, lamb and a variety of shell fish and fish that were as beautifully presented as they were flavorful. Following a mob assassination right out of the Godfather, Palmazul disappeared rather quickly but by then there were scores of places to dine, just not enough time. The writings of Bill Esparza have led me to explore even more places and to he has help convince more friends and neighbors to spend days focused on food that is remarkably absent from southern California, in spite of such close proximity.

Guadalajara?

1sweetpea — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 18:46:21 GMT

My lunch at Birria de los Nueve Esquinas was awesome. I had barbacoa de borrego and my husband had the birria de chivo. My barbacoa was delicious and so tender, but his birria was out of this world. The consomme was so rich and spice laden (allspice perhaps, cloves?). I could have just picked up the bowl and taken a sip, except it would have been all over me! Our other meals were in Tlaquepaque. We were a bit confined to places with sidewalk tables, since we have a dog, so we may have missed out big time with the pescado/marisco places that don't allow pets. We did have excellent torta ahogadas on the street, though. One restaurant, San Pedro del Rio, allowed us to dine inside the restaurant. The guacamole was heavenly and the sopa de mariscos was better than some bouillabaisses I have tasted.

Puerto Vallarta Zona Romantica dinner suggestions

simonsays — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 22:00:16 GMT

Just got home last night, and I would have to say that No Way Jose was totally the perfect choice! In fact, it was the most wonderful restaurant experience we had in the entire week. The menu, food, service, and ambiance were all wonderful, and we all truly enjoyed the evening we spent there. Thanks for your recommendation and your assistance!

Tequilaville restuarant!

haire_001 — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 17:53:20 GMT

Great find of a restaurant in the village of Akumal. Not on the trendy beach side just across the bridge in the 'town of Akumal' first restaurant on the main street. Great service, great food and great drinks at lower prices than the beach side. A must visit!!

Out of Print Books

cristina — Sun, 25 Mar 2012 22:09:42 GMT

I have been in constant contact with Larousse for the last year--they are using some of my photos in the new Spanish-language edition of the Diccionario. The book was scheduled to be published in January 2012. In their last communication, they said that it was delayed, but they did not give me a publication date.

new restaurant in Todos Santos

Mariana in Baja — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 03:12:13 GMT

Oh dear - I am surprised and disappointed to learn that your exerience at Zaguan wasn't great - very unusual IMO. I just came home from yet another really good meal there. Don't go to Cafelix for pizza . go to Pizza Napoli. Guaycura - sigh - beautiful space - go for a drink on the rooftop patio - music tomorrow night but not for dinner. If you have one more night go to Michael's at the Gallery - BEST food in town - only open Friday and Saturday and they are often full. go by tomorrow and see if you can get in tomorrow night - not cheap. Yes La Paz has amazing food for little dinero. Did you by chance get to Bizmark on the malecon - a friend and I had two smoked marlin tacos and two beer for about $10

Food and Wine Magazine features Streetgourmetla in Tijuana

cristina — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 23:06:56 GMT

Three cheers for Bill! He is one of--no, he is THE most knowledgeable person I know in matters of tacos, taquerías, and the general delights of Tijuana's scene. And he's a really great guy, too. Link: http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Jean George Steakhouse at the St. Regis

cristina — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 05:10:24 GMT

Dulce Patria is the completely worthy heir to Aguila y Sol. I was there this past Thursday, Mar. 8. Do NOT miss it. Azul Histórico is a more attractive space than Azul Condesa; the menus are identical. Both are marvelous. The wonderfully traditional El Bajío definitely trumps Fonda El Refugio. The St. Regis has recently changed chefs. I haven't been there with the new man on board. Breakfast at El Cardenal in the Hilton Hotel Alameda is a do-not-miss. If when you say 'dinner' you mean a full-on evening meal (cena), then yes, late. I would say 9PM at the earliest. If when you say 'dinner' you mean 'comida', Mexico's main meal of the day, then 3PM. El Bajío is not open at night, so you would want to go there for comida. Link: http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Tulum trip report

kchowder — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 04:21:46 GMT

Great report - thanks for all the detail! I have to second your rec for El Tabano. It was really atmospheric and the food was excellent. In general, it seemed like the food in Tulum isn't crapified for tourists. I figured I'd add my two cents to your original thread: La Gloria de Don Pepe: Nice little tapas joint on a side street off the main drag (Avenida Tulum). We had the albondigas and grilled veggie appetizers -- both were excellent -- as well as a very tasty seafood paella that was full of clams, head-on shrimp and a mollusk that looked kind of like a periwinkle. Sandbar: This was the restaurant/bar attached to the hotel we were staying in, so we had breakfast there every day, drinks often and dinner once. In general, the quality and preparation of the food was top-notch and the scenery was unbeatable - you could just sit there and watch the pelicans and terns dive all day. The grilled whole fish was a highlight. FWIW, the homemade granola was really good, too. I imagine people don't go to Mexico for the granola, but there you have it. El Capitan - I felt like a cheesy tourist eating here, but it was worth it for the lobster tail, which I got "al mojo de ajo". Hard to say no to shellfish smothered in garlic. Cetli: I really, really wanted to like this place. The decor and atmosphere were so cozy, and the chef was so charming. But the food just didn't live up to expectations and it was quite expensive. It feels mean-spirited to trot out a laundry list of what I didn't like about the food, so I'll just leave it at that. Happy Frog's: This is a little antojitos spot off the main square - they offer tortas, gorditas, sopes and huaraches with a variety of toppings and fillings like chicken, potato and chorizo, nopales and the like. It was cheap and tasty. We ate at a couple of other inexpensive Mexican eateries around downtown, and it seemed like it was hard to go wrong with just picking one at random and munching away. The Tortas Gigantes place close to the Coba/Tulum/Cancun intersection was totally forgettable (it's not much to look at, but we were curious and gave it a shot). But aside from that, we didn't encounter any duds in town.