http://www.chow.com/boards/50 Thu, 23 May 2013 21:38:38 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/903023#8094679 1) Tapas, in Barcelona at least, are almost always 1/2 raciones at 1/2 the price. Usually these things are matter of the weight of the main ingredient - e.g. a tapa of squid might consist of 100-150g of squid 2) Several years of visiting a few times a year gives me a good idea of what prices are like. I'll stand by my prices. 3)A platter is simply a large plate that holds more food than a small one - there is no claim made about whether it is a complete meal or not. 4)Having worked around publishing and newspapers for years I can safely assure you a food critic is usually just some guy with a journalism degree who likes food and was in the right place at the right time, no special training required. 5)There is a lot of research that suggests that the bar for motivating people to post negative online reviews is much lower than that for positive reviews yet there are many more positive online reviews of Cal Papi that negative ones. caganer Fri, 24 May 2013 17:25:14 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/903023#8094679 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/903018#8093017 We've just come from 4 days in Madrid and an evening in Toledo. In Madrid we ate at Casa Salvador where my wife's oxtails were superb but I can only rate the flavor of my tripe as good, though it was cooked perfectly. I thought Barbara was going to swoon over the roasted marrow bone and beef at Sacha. She started with a fresh tomato salad in a very light balsamic vinaigrette that was perfection. I had the fried artichokes - paper thin slices of baby artichokes fried in olive oil that had the texture of potato chips but were pure artichoke flavor. I followed that with brains that were superb - lightly battered and fried, slightly crunchy on the outside, milky soft inside. Barbara had a chocolate thing for desert and she flipped. I had something akin to creme caramel, but I have no idea what it was, other than outrageously good. I think it had cielo in the name, but since I asked the maitre d' to just pick out deserts for us I'm not sure what we had. Then on Tuesday we went to David Muñoz's Diverxo. Extraordinary. And that's saying something because we got off to a really bad start. Twenty minutes to get a glass of wine ordered from the time we were seated. Then, when asked if I'd like chopsticks to which I replied in the affirmative, none ever arrived, but the food transcended all. An amuse bouche of edamame seasoned, perhaps with sumac and something else with a buttermilk-like garlic dipping sauce. Then we both had the seven course tasting menu (the other choice being the thirteen course menu). The seven courses were actually around eleven since a course would often be divided into two halves served sequentially, like the poached prawn (it was called something else) that arrived followed by the grilled, seasoned, head and body with the juices from the body drizzled over the poached tail. Somewhere in the middle were white asparagus wrapped in the skin of red mullet - actually the meal involved parts of red mullet in several of the dishes, such as a pate of red mullet liver on a thin crisp. The courses that I sort of remember include the soup served in a young coconut shell where eating the coconut meat was a desired part of the experience, a steamed roll with a quail's egg yolk barely poached on top, an extraordinary piece of tuna cheek that tasted like a sous-vide cooked short rib, and a piece of ox cheek that had been slow roasted for 112 hours, a small piece of hake served sauced accompanied by a horseradish cream and spherified lime, and a desert which I no longer remember. Very, very highly recommended. Yesterday, we made our way to Toledo, where completely by chance we went for lunch to Adolfo. It turns out that the chef, Adolfo Muñoz, is David Muñoz's uncle. And he cooks like it. Not modernist, but brilliantly. Barbara had a simple "small" salad ordered off the menu which was beautiful and then a scallops and artichokes starter with fresh baby artichokes and incredibly dense scallops barely accented with maldon salt flakes that were perfect. I had a risotto of black rice cooked with squid ink and baby calamari and manchego cheese that was off the charts followed by red partridge that was excellent, but paled in comparison to the risotto. Excellent. rrosenwald Thu, 23 May 2013 21:13:50 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/903018#8093017 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901262#8092805 Just came back from Barcelona, what a great city! Will be posting my quick and dirty reviews soon. I failed in most of my missions, but still had a great time. lriemann Thu, 23 May 2013 20:06:08 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901262#8092805 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/893145#8092738 Let's see...accomodating at the moment of trying to help and speak English etc, yes, they are quite nice. And I think asking ahead makes a big difference. But when it's pintxos....I suppose it depends on the level of your gluten intolerance. I have one friend who is severely intolerant and he rarely goes out for pintxos because even a bit of flour will cause him to have a reaction. I'm trying to think...there are grilled brochetas that are often served alone, but they may be grilled on the same grill they toast bread on. See what I mean? So it just depends on you, I think. Hope that helps! If I were you I'd try and I would learn how to say 'severe allergy to gluten'. Although I bet there are some waiters who won't know exactly what that means...beware of breadings and fried things! batbihiru Thu, 23 May 2013 19:31:37 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/893145#8092738 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/902652#8091677 We have pintxo'ing covered, but that you! VirginiaNJ Thu, 23 May 2013 10:16:29 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/902652#8091677 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901545#8088027 Thanks for the info. I'll be staying in that part of town in a couple weeks, but I don't know much about Spanish beer. Any beer that you can recommend in particular from a bottle? vicstark Tue, 21 May 2013 17:00:07 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901545#8088027 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/899637#8084668 Thank you! Shrinkrap Mon, 20 May 2013 00:47:19 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/899637#8084668 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/898231#8083854 I've always avoided La Bola cause of its reputation among Rick-Steves-guidbook toting diners. I guess that proves that even the most touristed locales can offer great local fare. What do others think of La Bola.....and if not there, where for cocido? Casa Lucio is another that gets mentioned often, but I am sure there are many far less "discovered" addresses. erica Sun, 19 May 2013 15:45:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/898231#8083854 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/854645#8082387 just back at the hotel after Saturday lunch at Casa El Pisto/Taverna San Miguel where we had a wonderful time. Boquerones, fino, patatas bravas, some pork-on-the-bone dish (name forgotten) with fries, mushroom caps stuffed with matchsticks of ham (and a carrot-cabbage salad), bottle of Rioja crianza, & water, GREAT people-watching a bit under 50 Euros--gotta thank Sue for the rec. chairbc Sat, 18 May 2013 16:30:21 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/854645#8082387 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/899041#8082286 This post hasn't exactly blown up the internet but in case anyone wants any visual accompaniment, my wife has posted a couple of photo heavy blog posts on some of our favorite parts of the trip: Ramiro in Lisbon: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2013/04/lisbonese-food-porn-tiger-prawns.html Madrid Tapas wrap-up: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-surplus-of-tapas-small-bites-across.html kukubura Sat, 18 May 2013 13:13:00 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/899041#8082286 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900213#8082053 try this restaurant in Sant Pau: http://www.relaischateaux.com/en/search-book/hotel-restaurant/santpau/ It's from Carme Ruscalleda. One of the only female 3 star michelin chefs. The city is between Girona and Barcelona. trvlcrzy Sat, 18 May 2013 05:14:42 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900213#8082053 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/895624#8079292 Not sure if you are still traveling or perhaps en route however I cannot say enough about the experience at Zurita: http://asadorzurita.com/ you will not be disappointed. chowcito Thu, 16 May 2013 20:27:08 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/895624#8079292 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901867#8077826 Sounds like a great plan! Please report back. I'm dying to hear about all that you eat and drink. butterfly Thu, 16 May 2013 02:09:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901867#8077826 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/894828#8077346 Hey, specifically for the stuff in my original post: - Cheese: I really enjoyed the quejitos served as Petiscos. Its a regular menu item on most places in Lisbon - Francesinha: The only version I had was a random cafe in Porto near the University. Not my bag, but its a salty, fatty, feast of a sandwich - Ginjinha & Edwardinha: Had ginjinha everywhere I saw it but the best tasting one was in the tiny shop in Rossio square. The only Edwardinha was from a shop directly opposite the Rossio square ginjinha spot. - Cataplana: didn't have one, but if you want a seafood soup, the daily soup served up by the take out counter of Sea Me (google for address) is very very good. - Chourico: I ordered the grilled linguica at Principe Do Calhariz. It was pretty good, but I wouldn't order it again. Ungrilled would have been better, PS, don't go to Principe Do Calhariz. It's good but a big tourist draw and gets really crowded. - Pastels: Here's the thing, these things are delicious when they come fresh out of the oven. At that time, it doesn't matter where you have them. However, the original shop in Belem has constant production hence the freshest pastels through the day. PS, try and get some Tart Almendoa at one of the pastelarias. amazing! - Wine: I tried and quickly fell in love with Casal Garcia Vinho Verde. Quinta de Avaleda is also good. Vinho Verde was built for seafood - Bacalhau: IT may be a national dish, but it pales in comparison to the fresh fish on offer everywhere. Try it wherever you see it on the menu of the day. I liked the grilled (Asada no Brasa) better than the one with fries. Food everywhere was very good in general. The ethos os cooking fresh things simply assures good meals. What changes is the price and 'flare'. Some recommendations: - Sea Me for fish in a more western setting - Cabracas for Beef on a burning hot stone. google it - pasteis de belem for the custard tarts - Cantinho Do Avillez for the Conserva appetizer - Pedro Dos Frangos (Porto) and Bonjardim (Lisbon) for Frango no Brasa (roast chicken) meatnveg Wed, 15 May 2013 21:36:55 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/894828#8077346 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901576#8076389 I am so jealous that you managed to make to to Sacha - they weren't open when I was in Madrid during Christmas! deadstroke86 Wed, 15 May 2013 15:29:42 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901576#8076389 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/879267#8071857 Thanks, Erica. I love to eat! So anything goes except for maybe the blood sausage. Will try to eat where you recommended. Budget to mid range prices. jkmnlo Mon, 13 May 2013 03:13:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/879267#8071857 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901691#8071228 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/879267 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/877468 I've made a number of visits in the past two year, so just ask...but please state your budget and tastes.. erica Sun, 12 May 2013 18:49:59 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901691#8071228 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901540#8069649 We did the same class last October, and had a great time. I think you're right about how the group can affect your enjoyment. Our group was excellent! There were 4 other Canadians (we're from Toronto and coincidentally the other 4 were women who live in a suburb outside of Toronto), an Australian couple and 6 Americans (newlyweds, gay couple and 2 single women), with a good mix of ages and experiences . Everyone participated and we all had a great time with lots of laughs. I thought that the food was great - we really enjoyed learning how to make proper paella and in fact, we bought a paella pan when we came home to Toronto and have made it a couple of times since then. I also appreciated the tour of the market. It wasn't something that was on my radar when I started the planning the trip and in fact, we only made the reservation a few days before we went. I'm so glad we did. SusanB Sat, 11 May 2013 15:32:50 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/901540#8069649 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/825587#8065736 Why don't you just write to him and ask who he sells to in Barcelona, or better yet, make a trip to the farm yourself. Not sure if they accommodte visitors but you can ask. http://www.lapateria.eu/contact.html erica Thu, 09 May 2013 11:52:16 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/825587#8065736 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/897012#8064575 Haha, I just subvert totally the online reservation system and go through my contacts ;) Must suck to do it the normal way .. adrian Wed, 08 May 2013 20:15:45 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/897012#8064575 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900592#8064282 I was in Barcelona in August and Pinotxo bar was closed for the month. I did go to Tapas24 and enjoyed it...as well as other tapas bars, mainly in the Born area of the city. I also enjoyed a meal at Casa Botin (oldest in the world) in Madrid, more for the history than anything. The suckling pig and some squid ink'd squid. Pricey for what it was though, but very memorable. Xericx Wed, 08 May 2013 18:28:22 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900592#8064282 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900041#8063978 Good luck! My reservation was at 7:00pm, so I just turned up early - BUT they didn't let me in initially. Good news is they did eventually (about 10-15 minutes after opening). estufarian Wed, 08 May 2013 15:52:13 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900041#8063978 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900352#8063549 I second bcc. Hisop was excellent. Not in your list up there, but we enjoyed Tapeo very much too. We also went to Quimet&Quimet and had a great time standing around eating. Quirky, fun place. But I must add, the food they serve is probably not really up everyone's alley. grovina Wed, 08 May 2013 08:25:33 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900352#8063549 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900364#8058802 Cool. I'm staying on Germano Lusitania (spelling may be way off), I'll check my map. I figure I'll be eating at least my morning meal at home both as a way to spend less and also so I can save my calories for the evening. The 3rd wave coffee stuff is less of what I'm looking for. I just like a bit of foam on my espresso. I enjoyed the coffee in Madrid more so then Barcelona, but in Madrid I had a local showing me around. Either way I assume Lisbon will be a great food vacation. Thanks for the tips. coolaugustmoon Sun, 05 May 2013 22:39:05 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900364#8058802 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900719#8055929 Went there on a Sunday night for a drink. It's one of the few places open on a Sunday night and the abuela/gran mother was in the kitchen cooking. They were very friendly, We had some sherry as well and some chorizo venadao, deer sausage. We are dying to go back, but it's a long subway ride from NYC. MOREKASHA Fri, 03 May 2013 23:57:43 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/900719#8055929