http://www.chow.com/boards/49 Thu, 18 Aug 2011 19:38:57 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849261#7342200 on a whim, i went to the other website (St Germaine) and got a response within hours. so i guess we're going there instead! rudysmom Wed, 16 May 2012 11:05:45 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849261#7342200 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849212#7342179 and clueless foreign visitors would never ever include the bus-riding guinguette-going Mme Mangeur. :) Parnassien Wed, 16 May 2012 10:29:56 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849212#7342179 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849445#7342176 In addition to the other excellent recs: (all in a 10- to 20-minute walking radius of your hotel) Caius on the rue d'Armaillé for very superior neo-bistro fare Rech on the avenue de Ternes for shellfish (great fruit de mer platter) and fish Dominique Bouchet on the rue Treilhard for master chef precision but not a very surprising menu. Parnassien Wed, 16 May 2012 10:24:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849445#7342176 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849366#7342154 I must slightly disagree about Le Flore. I've never had the classic club sandwich there but the breadless --and very chic-- version is pretty delish... the Welsh Rarebit, croques, frites, smoked salmon plates are all quite superior and the omelettes are almost supernaturally good. Even the onion soup is a pleasant surprise. But I do agree that café grub tends to be better in the outer arrondissements. Nevertheless the 6th does have its share of places that, while the food is hardly memorable, are good enough to be recommended to those staying in the area or looking for a quick meal. And speaking of the legacy cafés/ bistros, have you ever eaten at le Tabac de la Mairie on the rue Blomet across from the Mairie du XV? I like it for exactly the qualities you described but need a second opinion before I recommend (to Mangeur). Parnassien Wed, 16 May 2012 09:07:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849366#7342154 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849226#7342148 The restaurant changed hands a few years ago, I can only imagine it was after you went. The service is one of the reasons I love it so much - by far the least 3* of any 3* I've been to (in France at any rate). The first time I went it was because it was the only place we could find that would let us in wearing shorts; something Troisgros is certainly not happy with. davew666 Wed, 16 May 2012 09:00:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849226#7342148 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849447#7342108 Dalloyau at that location on the second floor has a wonderful view as well, often go there as well. Delucacheesemonger Wed, 16 May 2012 07:32:10 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849447#7342108 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849412#7342101 Les Baux: This perched village has a collection of unremarkable touristy cafés (in my experience). But if you have the time, energy, & euros, you could walk to the Oustau de Baurmanière - which likely won't be too far from wherever your transportation leaves or picks you up (at the bottom of the mountain). Gordes: There isn't much to offer in this village proper either, but if view counts for anything, then have lunch at the Bastide de Gordes (http://www.bastide-de-gordes.com/fr/hotel-provence-luberon.php). The view/site should compensate for whatever the cuisine may lack, which, I must add, I haven't tested in several years. Maybe another Cher has been there recently....? Avignon: Hiély-Lucullus and if you are allowed to escape from your hotel dinners in Arles, be sure to go to l'Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel boredough Wed, 16 May 2012 07:11:16 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849412#7342101 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/839833#7341998 The phrase basically says "In order for us to better manage the course/event, we want to let you know that if you don't confirm your reservation 3 days before the date, you will be put on the waiting list." mrbitterpants Wed, 16 May 2012 04:19:46 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/839833#7341998 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847836#7341182 We have been guided by Mike McAndrew (http://www.frenchwineroutes.com/) both in Burgundy and Champagne. He is very good at finding and setting up tastings with small producers. His quarterly newsletter about wine, food and life living in Puligny Montrachet is now in a "blog", http://frenchwineroutes.blogspot.com/. The best part is Mike and Maxine are wonderful people. BlueOx Tue, 15 May 2012 21:35:14 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847836#7341182 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849351#7340992 thanks! letahaa Tue, 15 May 2012 20:10:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849351#7340992 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849088#7340822 That's terrific, thank you. DaisyM Tue, 15 May 2012 19:12:20 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849088#7340822 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/706887#7340723 Just don't eat the food at Fouquet's. The hot chocolate is fine, and the people watching is superb, but the food leaves a lot to be desired.... ChefJune Tue, 15 May 2012 18:28:48 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/706887#7340723 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848814#7339879 Moulin de la Gorce also runs a less expensive bistro in the village of La Roche l'Abeille which has a great local reputation. Just on the edge of Limoges in Isle, Le Printemps is a friendly relaxed place with a good table. kerriar Tue, 15 May 2012 12:49:13 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848814#7339879 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849297#7339873 Thinking about first time visit. How is the food? Atmosphere? thanks for any info! helen185 Tue, 15 May 2012 12:45:29 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849297#7339873 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848591#7339629 Oh my. Well. Really? Hmm. Thank you for your reply Wally, perhaps it is best if I stick with NY/NJ. That is just...wow. Jerseygirl111 Jerseygirl111 Tue, 15 May 2012 05:37:03 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848591#7339629 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849255#7339156 Has anyone been to the new Cedric Casanova's shop Le picnic gastronomique? We are planning to go to Paris in July and would like to make a reservation. Also, we are two people and will have at least three spaces to share the table LauraVG Tue, 15 May 2012 00:49:05 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/849255#7339156 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/837274#7338847 Though ethereal sound of chimes made by grazing goats enticed and transported us beyond imaginable, I hope to predict that it will soon be filled again as long as they continue to provide experience you describe and we once had too long ago. Thanks for making my day too, and in the same spirit I will be doing cartwheels on Columbus Circle! Kurtis Mon, 14 May 2012 21:53:04 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/837274#7338847 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848852#7338604 I live in te 3rd, but like to get out of my neighbourhood and see what's going on elsewhere. Thanks all for the suggestions. Looks like a busy four-day weekend ahead for me! canadiangirl_in_Paris Mon, 14 May 2012 20:12:37 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848852#7338604 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844206#7338273 Not the 6-8 top on right if facing from door, the 2-4 top on left along side wall. Believe me l do not suffer in silence. Delucacheesemonger Mon, 14 May 2012 18:03:38 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844206#7338273 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848990#7338255 For some reason, lots of places around the Canal St-Martin don't get much attention from Chowhounders. Maybe it's because most tourists just cluster in the inner arrondissements. Chez Prune is great for a light meal and a bout of people-watching. And other lovely little places like Chez Marie-et-Louise and Bistro des Oies are sadly overlooked on this board as well. Parnassien Mon, 14 May 2012 17:58:48 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848990#7338255 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848844#7337507 Bad in this case means slightly less than perfect. Just fix your mind on the chandeliers and ormolu and you won't even notice. And the cave at La Truffière is kitschy?!! I was sure the French word "kitsch" meant the same as the English "kitsch" but I guess not. It's a simple and atmospheric vaulted cave without an ounce of "kitsch" (French meaning) and ostentation. And suggested as an alternative to le Voltaire, not Les Ambassadeurs. Parnassien Mon, 14 May 2012 12:28:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848844#7337507 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848924#7336921 Thanks - flying to Tokyo on Wednesday so I will leave the perfume at home! PhilD Sun, 13 May 2012 23:15:59 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848924#7336921 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844612#7336181 unclefishbits wasn't trying to be rude or disrepctful, i just believe there are a number of chefs who are very ego, status driven, where gathering media attention, high rankings, michelin stars, whatever etc are extemely important to them. That may or may not be many and there are certainly chefs that are clearly not concerned with those things. Could name a number of chefs who I think those rankings etc are very near and dear to them but I'm not sure were supposed to be doing that sort of stuff on CH. I'll try and stick to food and what this original thread or others are about in the future. mick Sun, 13 May 2012 13:42:03 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844612#7336181 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848908#7335566 We from New Zealand, and another couple from New York, will be sharing an apartment on rue de l'universite in the 7eme. We understand there are some good restaurants on rue saint-dominique, and on streets nearby and and even further away on foot. We would appreciate advice as to the very best of these. Also, we understand the restaurant in the tour d'effel is worth a visit. Merci d'avance. Kiwibloke Sat, 12 May 2012 23:08:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848908#7335566 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844212#7335442 Thanks Sue, so nice to get that kind of information. We now got reservations at Auberge de i`ill, Rendes-vous de la Chasse and the cheese cermonie des fromages at Bernard Antony. I will choose three of these; Winstub de sommelier, Restaurant de la Gare, Le Pressoir de Bacchus, D`Brendelstub. JYS and L`Atelier du Peintre. We have a child with us so we prefer to eat lunch. We also will spend one day in Basel; so I suppose we need a restaurant there as well About wine tasting I`m considering private appointments at domaine Weinbach, Trimbach and maybe Marcel Deiss. I`m a little wooried about the expectations for buying after a visit. Its okay to buy some bottles to drink while we are there, but I`m not interested in buying a lot. Mainly because were trsvling by plane, and because its fairly easily available wines in Norway.Do you think this will be a problem? Also; how many wines is it normal that they will present? jorn77 Sat, 12 May 2012 21:33:01 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844212#7335442 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/717587#7335421 I had the chirashi at Foujita this week, and sorry to report that it's not very good. The fish's fresh but the rice was too mushy and vinegary. Haven't tried it personally, but my friends like Comme de Poissons near Passy. xigua Sat, 12 May 2012 21:16:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/717587#7335421 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848738#7335195 Cool - literally! saticoy Sat, 12 May 2012 18:20:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848738#7335195 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848796#7335090 Thanks all. If I miss it my first Sunday, I'll try again the second Sunday I'm there. RCF Sat, 12 May 2012 16:35:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848796#7335090 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848751#7334766 Hahahahaha. Parigi Sat, 12 May 2012 07:28:53 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848751#7334766 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848566#7334472 Yes the works are for the new city tramway in Dijon. Not to be finished until 2014 I think, or maybe it is late 2013. Beaune is a good home base. If you are cycling the ride from Beaune north through Aloxe, Pernand, & Savigny is a nice one. DaTulip Sat, 12 May 2012 02:17:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848566#7334472 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848670#7334419 Precisely. We shop on the day before we fly, request the greenest piece available, bring it immediately back to the hotel fridge and take it out as we check out. Then...we sometimes keep unpasturized cheese in our cheese compartment at home for..er...months. Epoisses has shown extraordinary keeping quality. And of course, uber- aged comte and gruyere are almost everlasting if well tended. mangeur Sat, 12 May 2012 01:29:31 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848670#7334419 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/312486#7334202 This is great, thank you. True it doesn't have everything of course, but we will be driving around a couple of weeks + a week in Paris so I'm sure we will use it. Betty Fri, 11 May 2012 23:05:10 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/312486#7334202 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/845937#7334089 for the quincinera (sp?) i second Tour d'argent. Totally old world, fancy, fantastic view. its the restaurant that the cartoon film Ratatouille uses. but, you know even though the food is not as good, the location will be talked about for years and thats The Jules Verne on the eiffel tower. The lunch rates are the same for both restos--about 90 euro before wine dinner is more expensive at Jules Verne. parispicnics Fri, 11 May 2012 21:55:05 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/845937#7334089 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848708#7333945 I hear ya. And I have to say, although I am not a purist myself, and although I wrote a pretty positive review, I don't think I'd go back unless brought there by someone else. I much prefer the pizzas at Al Taglio, and I really want to finally get my lips on one of those at Maria Luisa. But I still honestly liked the pizzas at Pink Flamingo, which I didn't really expect. Rio Yeti Fri, 11 May 2012 20:32:08 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848708#7333945 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848647#7333690 Quatrehomme rue de Sevres--- but for the "pavé d'affinois"... intermarché....or leader price chicagoparis Fri, 11 May 2012 18:36:07 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848647#7333690 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844661#7333527 the pigeon I had at Ma Cuisine 2 years ago blew me away, too… I'd go back and eat there in a heartbeat, not to mention all the gems one can find on the wine list. Peech Fri, 11 May 2012 17:26:07 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844661#7333527 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848683#7333424 Would add Le Quincy to the list. rswatkins Fri, 11 May 2012 16:34:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848683#7333424 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848441#7333422 I can't vouch for the quality of the food, but there's always Café des Deux Garçons at 53 Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence, supposedly frequented by Cézanne. Next door (at #55) you will see traces of the painted sign for for his father's hat shop. And there's le Café la Nuit in Arles, "star" of the well-known Van Gogh painting. And while you're in the area, you might want to check out the Carrières de Lumières (http://carrieres-lumieres.com/fr/home) - the current version of the Cathédral d'Images in les Baux. The "show" is Van Gogh & Gauguin - an innovative way to appreciate their paintings in a very cool (in more ways than one) venue. (I apologize in advance for mentioning non-food.) boredough Fri, 11 May 2012 16:34:06 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848441#7333422 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848734#7333300 Hi, my family and I are staying in Dinard for a week this summer, followed by a week near Clecy in Swiss Normandy, close to the Orne/Calvados border. We're looking for any good restaurant ideas - from formal to more casual, as we'll be eating lots of meals with small kids and would welcome some inspiration. Notable shops and bakeries also good to know about. Thanks in advance. Yankunian Fri, 11 May 2012 15:21:03 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848734#7333300 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/789371#7333215 Agreed and understood - thanks! I'm going to start a new thread about oysters and fruits de mer. saticoy Fri, 11 May 2012 14:45:49 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/789371#7333215 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846592#7332950 Running away with your gluttony remark (and gourmand also means greedy/ gluttonous in French), a traditional place for a late-night meal is Chez Denise (open until 5am) in Les Halles. Not a place that in any way fits into a thread headed "Small Plates", though. And not open on Sat & Sun. Parnassien Fri, 11 May 2012 09:16:40 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846592#7332950 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/747205#7332929 I'm impressed. We'll tango down the Rue. ScottnZelda Fri, 11 May 2012 07:58:34 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/747205#7332929 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/838451#7332894 PART 3 OF 4 Dawn is breaking gently upon the Côte de Beaune. Emily and I are on the plateau of the Fretille Hill, enjoying the beautiful vista. Our Lady of Good Hope (Notre Dame de Bonne Espérance) stands beside us, blessing the road to Beaune and the three villages that share the Corton Hill – Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny. The air is bracingly fresh and clean, and not for the first time, I consider chucking it all in for a little writer’s sinecure in the heart of the picturesque countryside. As we walk back downhill and through the threshold of the domaine, so does Ludovic, bearing a paper bag of baked treats. They are, without doubt, the best croissants and pains au chocolat I have ever tasted, shattering in crisp, buttery flakes as I bite into them. I grin like an idiot as Ludo brews up potent espresso shots to kickstart our systems. It is on such rudimentary fuel that the vignerons of Pernand-Vergelesses run, and a hard day of work is ahead. *** PZZT! BANG! POW! Due to the unseasonal warmth (26 degrees and sunny in late September), a plague of drosophiles (vinegar flies) has struck. Working at a winemaking facility, we are at ground zero of droso activity, our flying friends being attracted to anything vaguely fruity or sugary. Ludo has installed a high-voltage mosquito zapper adapted for heavy duty usage, but its glowing blue bars are already encrusted with burnt-on droso corpses. The occasional abrupt sparking noise is the backing track to our days in the cellar. The winemaking area is a hodge-podge of barrels, machinery and rubber hoses. Our first job today is to assemble an order for Ludo’s friend Michel. Michel has been consulting to Ludo on matters viticultural and as custom dictates, he gets the option (often taken up) of being paid in wine. Ludo puts together a selection, completely unfussed that he is giving Michel an extra 40 euros of wine over a 200 euro bill. The accountant in me wants to alert him to this but wiser counsels prevail; instead I start to wonder when we city folk started to become so calculating in our dealings. Following the list, I fetch some bottles from storage while Ludo cranks up his capsuling machine. He prints out his labels on his office printer and applies them by hand before boxing the bottles up and leaving them in the unlocked shed for Michel. In the meantime, Emily is pouring some grapes into a spiral blade crusher, which will break the skins further before the berries are sucked into the wine press to extract the last bits of juice. After pressing, we pack the marc (residue of skins and seeds post-pressing) into large stackable containers, which Ludo moves into his van via forklift. As the van only seats three, the ladies and Ludo sit in the front and I ride steerage with the marc. The faithful Yquem is also there and he eyes me suspiciously. But I don’t only have canine company today; the drosos are here in force and I am afraid to breathe for fear of inhaling a handful of the critters. Yquem is unfussed and seems almost contemptuous of my weakness. We pull up at the Burgundian equivalent of a municipal garbage dump, but we are not the first ones here today; tonnes of marc (and their droso chaperones) have already been deposited. Showing us how it’s done, Ludo picks up a container, which must weigh at least 40 kilograms fully loaded, and pivoting the weight in his left hand, thrusts the container and its contents over the tip, smashing the container against the edge of the tip to ensure all the marc is disposed of. I can picture this forming part of Rocky’s training regime if he ever went genteel and decided to fight in wine country. “You know marc de Bourgogne, yes? Someone will pick this up later and make alcohol from it”. So the next time you feel tempted to order a snifter of marc de Bourgogne, remember that it has been distilled from what are essentially drosophile sloppy seconds. On our return, we are crestfallen to see the drosos have attacked the wine press, which is stained with the residue of semi-fermented grape juice. I quickly hose it down, along with a couple of “torpedoes”, effectively colanders which keep any solid matter out when we want to transfer the juice. All of that heavy lifting has made me hungry, so we break for an early lunch – pain de campagne, reblochon and brie, some sliced tomatoes, and a bottle of Ludo’s 2009 Hospices de Beaune Pommard Cuvée Raymond Cyrot. The wine is superb, with ripe tannins and a spiciness that make it eminently drinkable, but to leave it at that would miss its significance. The Hospices was founded in 1443 by the then-Chancellor of Burgundy, Nicolas Rolin, to look after the sick and destitute of the area. As demand for its services grew, philanthropists and winemakers supported its work by donating parcels of vineyards to the Hospices. Today, the Hospices vinifies the fruit grown on its holdings and auctions off the new wine on the third Sunday of November to raise funds for the modern hospital. Anyone, winemakers, foreign merchants and even devoted fanboys, are welcome to place their bids. Ludo’s voice cracks when he talks about his winning bid for a barrel of 2009 Pommard (the wine bears the name of Raymond Cyrot, who donated the source vineyard to the Hospices), the first successful bid in his domaine’s young life. On his badly neglected desk rests a wood-framed Hospices label, at the foot of which is embossed the proud legend: Elevé et mis en bouteille par Ludovic Belin, Negociant-Eleveur à Pernand-Vergelesses. Yes, he’s given a couple of thousand euros to charity but you can see how much it means to him as a winemaker and descendant of winemakers, as if through this act he has become part of a noble tradition of service that has endured for almost 600 years. In the middle of lunch, the phone rings, and Ludo rushes back into his office with a hitherto unobserved alacrity. The man that walks out is rather more downcast; the old lady with the neighbouring plot has decided not to sell her land this year, so Ludo will need to look elsewhere if he wishes to expand his holdings. After a few glasses, we are fit only for lighter duties. 2011 hasn’t been the warmest vintage, what with a chilly July and August, so we need to chaptalise to enhance the wine’s alcohol levels. Chaptalisation gets a bad rap, but it is perfectly legal and far more commonplace than often thought, even amongst the crus classés of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Ludo has three barrels of premium whites fermenting in new-ish oak – the premiers crus Sous Fretille and En Caradeux, and the coveted grand cru Corton-Charlemagne. He brings out his wine thief, essentially an 18-inch pipette, draws out a sample of wine, tells us “This is how we do it”, and takes a massive swig before depositing the remainder in a test tube. We gratefully follow his example, with the richly fruity Sous Fretille our unanimous favourite. Using a sugar testing implement that I can only think of as a buoyant, bobbing thermometer, Ludo works out how much more alcohol he needs over the current potential level and how much sugar he needs to add to produce it. Emily and I weigh out the sugar and feed it to the yeasts via the little plug-hole in each barrel. The wine hisses gratefully as the yeasts awake, sugar-induced, from their slumber. Next, Ludo wheels out a tall metal box-like machine. “Temperature control”, he explains, before asking me to fit this hose here and join that tube there. After I’m done, my eyes follow the tubes, trying to fathom the wine’s labyrinthine passage. It dawns upon me: red wine is leaving the tank to be heated in the machine, and the warm wine is piped back into the tank. Ludo breaks into a big smile when he sees comprehension dawn in my eyes. “You understand!” he cries, more proud than condescending. But why do you do this? “It’s like a teabag. You get more, how do you say, extraction, when the liquid is warmer. So here, we can get more tannin, more flavour, from the berries”. Before starting the machine though, he tests the wine (taking his customary swig before doing so, of course) to ensure there is no residual sugar remaining. “If there is sugar, it will take on a more caramel flavour at the higher temperature. That will spoil the wine, so we must be sure the sugar fermentation is finished before we can do this”. To my mind, at least, this explains the more masculine character of Ludo’s reds. In time, they settle down to reveal the enchanting soft fruit of a true Pernand cru, but in their youth, they are more forward and open. In many ways, just like their maker. As we pack up and hose down the cuverie, a couple of neighbours walk up the hill, bearing bread and saucissons. Not to be outdone, we bring out our fromages, and Ludo cracks open bottles of his Corton-Renardes grand cru and Pommard. The sausages are garlicky, the cheeses are pungent and the wine is excellent. I can barely make out a word of the conversation and the smoke of the cigarettes stings my eyes, but the atmosphere and fellowship is so good and genuine that it barely matters. After the neighbours wave their farewells, Michel finally turns up to collect his order. Ludo tells him “Wait, I have something for you”. He comes out of the cellar with a bottle of 2009 Côtes de Castillon. A Bordeaux. He pours each of us a glass. Having drunk nothing for the past week except minerally chardonnay and cool climate pinot noir, I feel my system rejecting the deep, dark, oaky wine and start to retch. Across the workbench, Ludo and Michel taste and shake their heads in scorn and pity. “This is SHEET!", Ludo pronounces his considered verdict. “Fecking Bordelais”. Michel nods his agreement. Picture if you can, two grown men, sitting and tasting, cursing in disappointment as if their red-headed stepchild failed, as expected, to live up to even the most modest expectations (and thereby confirming every stereotype of the Burgundian disdain for their Bordelais cousins). Michel leaves without picking up his order; he knows it’s still going to be there the next time he drops by. Ludo says goodbye and drives back to Beaune. As has become my practice, I sit in the shed to record the happenings of the day. I notice the uncleaned glasses are attracting little swarms of drosos, who are soon drowning in rich Bordeaux goodness. Well, at least some Burgundians seem to like it. For full pictures, please visit http://julianteoh.blogspot.com/2012/05/winemaking-holiday-in-burgundy-part-3.html (To be continued...) Julian Teoh Fri, 11 May 2012 06:24:17 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/838451#7332894 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/793859#7332789 Trying to make a booking for one online and no luck. Not the place for solo diners? sharpe_555 Fri, 11 May 2012 03:49:59 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/793859#7332789 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848621#7332422 I have a reservation on May 18:I believe they close for renovations starting May 19.I also have a reservation for June 4,which ,I believe,is the first day they reopen. tming Thu, 10 May 2012 23:38:38 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848621#7332422 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847081#7332093 bookmarking. thanks. naughtyb Thu, 10 May 2012 20:30:16 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847081#7332093 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847155#7331237 I have been staying in the Mouffetard neighborhood for April & May this year and my comments are as follows. The best new place is Dan Les Landes for daily changing tapas as well as a daily plat du jour, I think it would be ideal for your group... casual, big selection and just plain satisfying. As Chef June says the Boulangerie du Monge is quite good but just a few steps up Mouffetard follow the long line to the Boulangerie Mouffetard and order a baguette céreal. Christophe is sort of a bare-bones place with excellent meat based cuisine. Terroir Parisien is a slick new modern place that makes me think Manhattan...excellent product. I fear that La Cagouille has seen better days, we were disappointed yesterday and besides it is not within spitting distance of the Sorbonne if that is a criteria. We have been disappointed in the brasseries in the area; if that is a priority probably you should stick to the Balzar or better La Rotode in Montparnasse. Epigramme has had a change of owners since Bittman's article. As far as I can tell, Les Papilles is exactly the same, casual, crowded, good "country cooking' and pleasant service, usually by the owner. Laidback Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:58 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/847155#7331237 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848561#7331095 According to their website, they are closed Sat and Sun. Delucacheesemonger Thu, 10 May 2012 12:00:33 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/848561#7331095 http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/840003#7331075 You can also go to a butcher-charcuterie in Arles Sunday morning, and pack yourself a picnic. Parigi Thu, 10 May 2012 11:31:02 GMT http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/840003#7331075