http://www.chow.com/boards/49 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:23:52 GMT Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound http://www.chow.com/topics/663148#5210179 Thank you all so much for your patience and advice. We have reservations for dinner Saturday night 12/26 at Le Grande Cascade. If you tell me that it's Christmas weekend and the chef will have the day off, the B team will be in the kitchen and the food won't be as wonderful as usual, I will cry. Fri, 27 Nov 2009 00:19:29 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663148#5210179 http://www.chow.com/topics/669697#5210152 Absolutely textbook. Soup you have neatly mapped the long parcours of French cuisine. "Early" nouvelle sort of looks old now. And so ironic that a poster named Minimalist seeks such a maximalist experience, mais bon... :-) Thu, 26 Nov 2009 23:57:59 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669697#5210152 http://www.chow.com/topics/669186#5209765 Thanks Souphie. I called and in my horrible French determined that they are indeed closed on December 24. Any other suggestions? Thu, 26 Nov 2009 18:00:32 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669186#5209765 http://www.chow.com/topics/669836#5209753 Wow! Fabulous reply, thank you! I can not wait to try out these places. The fermes-auberges sound perfect. Thu, 26 Nov 2009 17:54:22 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669836#5209753 http://www.chow.com/topics/667305#5209438 Nah, none of the guys above are like that. They don't speak much English, but they are just regular guys making and selling some nice wines. Not much attitude in Southern Burgundy. Also, if these places didn't want tourists showing up, tasting and buying wine, they wouldn't put up a sign with an arrow inviting them. I just opened a 2006 Renaud Pouilly-Fuisse. It's an excellent example of this wine. I think I paid 11 euro for the bottle. Thu, 26 Nov 2009 13:32:02 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667305#5209438 http://www.chow.com/topics/669401#5209363 I have not been to the Bookinistes lately, so have been spared the ordeal that others describe here. But thought Violons is already better than Bookinistes in the latter's hay day. As for Ciel de Paris, when I find myself in the 14th/15th, I am not alone in trying all kinds of detours to devise an itinerary to avoid the view. One place where one is sure not to get the view though is to be inside Le Ciel de Paris. Thu, 26 Nov 2009 11:27:21 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669401#5209363 http://www.chow.com/topics/646974#5209280 Wow. Me too! There are a lot of people applying to Ferrandi from this board for Feb 1010. It's Nov. 25, and I haven't heard a thing. Not a good sign. I still have hope. Maybe they'll open another class and add one more instructor so I can get in!!!!! I can still dream. Have you guys heard anything yet? The wait is killing me. Thu, 26 Nov 2009 07:28:04 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/646974#5209280 http://www.chow.com/topics/518467#5208732 Thanks for recommending Maceo, Souphie. I had a delicious vegetarian dinner there in July and my omnivorous friends also loved their food. Clearly it's a restaurant that puts real thought into its vegetarian creations. Thu, 26 Nov 2009 01:17:02 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/518467#5208732 http://www.chow.com/topics/588677#5208322 So- I suppose I should go eat there then, when I come to Paris in December. I can't wait! Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:41:13 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/588677#5208322 http://www.chow.com/topics/521707#5208263 Had a really wonderful roast chicken, I think probably the best I've had, at Petite Pontoise last year. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:12:16 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/521707#5208263 http://www.chow.com/topics/632693#5208251 Marche Baudoyer just before Christmas last year was jolly and fun. Vegetable guy was giving out your choice of Vin Chaud or some kind of dark spice cake (darker than pain d'epices). Arriving in Paris on the 24th and determined to get there in time to hit the market for a delicious Christmas Eve feast. This will be our 5th Christmas in Paris in a row. By far I think Christmas Eve is the more difficult night, but with planning lots of options. Great time to be in France. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:08:17 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/632693#5208251 http://www.chow.com/topics/268521#5207943 http://www.porcelainesmpsamie.fr/ Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:08:49 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/268521#5207943 http://www.chow.com/topics/663268#5207541 Ha! I too dined here and experienced similar service. That said, the food was EXCELLENT. If you can laugh off the brusqueness (which my mother and I did), then go. I had a monkfish with chanterelles and lentils that was remarkable (this was in early 2008). By the way, I didn't in any way find them mean. Just rather unhelpful and annoyed. Ah well. Wed, 25 Nov 2009 16:49:01 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/663268#5207541 http://www.chow.com/topics/667242#5207355 so sorry just seen this now!!! we went: Le Rubis - good atmosphere, rammed, 4 dishes to choose from - my brandade was so so, m husband's blood sausage was lovely Table 28 - Phil D and Souphie - i see what you mean, it was reallu nice, Daniel was lovely, but I think i was expecting something different. Glou - over priced for what is was - 23 euros for a burger! Paul Bert - quite old fashioned, heavy dishes, liked it but didn't love it. thanks to all who helped me, I can't wait to go back to try all the other places I wanted to go! Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:44:59 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667242#5207355 http://www.chow.com/topics/660935#5205646 We just returned from our week in Paris (will post full report soon). We ended up in a small cafe on rue Cler before dinner for a few glasses of the nouveau and a small dish of olives. Based on our rating scale, the wine received our lowest acceptable rating of "didn't suck". We decided the French must keep all of the good stuff (wine, cheese, etc) for themselves. Much better than the Georges Duboeuf we get back home. Had another couple of glasses before dinner just outside the Centre Pompidou on Friday night before dinner at Le Gaigne. The waiter was delighted with our choice and said that he had been out until past 3 the night before celebrating the new arrival. Tue, 24 Nov 2009 20:58:10 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/660935#5205646 http://www.chow.com/topics/666008#5204828 It definitely looks doable. According to this schedule it is a 2 hr. 10 m. train ride: http://www.bonjourlafrance.com/france-trains/tgv-mediterranean/schedules/paris-ile-de-france-valence.htm Tue, 24 Nov 2009 15:16:28 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666008#5204828 http://www.chow.com/topics/668992#5204323 In the same vein and one of my presents to bring anywhere to cooks is the extra long extra heavy duty aluminum wrap, a must, thanks for reminding me. Tue, 24 Nov 2009 05:44:24 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668992#5204323 http://www.chow.com/topics/669102#5203745 Thanks souphie! I've managed to push my trip to Paris forward so I'll be there 1 day earlier (Fri) and have made a reservation via Guy Savoy's website. Awaiting their confirmation email now. Can't wait! Tue, 24 Nov 2009 01:00:17 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669102#5203745 http://www.chow.com/topics/669034#5203479 I've never been to Paris before, but I've heard great things about the Laotian food at Lao Siam. If you've got any photos of their dishes, please share them with us. I'd like to compare Laotian food in France to the ones that are prepared here in the U.S. =) Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:18:11 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669034#5203479 http://www.chow.com/topics/668945#5203087 .....and I would add far less commercial. The magic of Paris for me is that it is really a collection of villages, people often live and shop in the same area, so you see families being "christmassy". It is very cute! My partner also loves Christmas because it is dark outside and the shops are lit up, in the summer you often can't see inside, at Christmas you can see so much more, and it makes them so much more enticing. Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:11:32 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668945#5203087 http://www.chow.com/topics/664337#5202694 No, somehow I never made it to the Caféothèque. Next trip, perhaps. Mon, 23 Nov 2009 19:13:06 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/664337#5202694 http://www.chow.com/topics/669144#5202593 Well, the way to get better recommendations is to be more specific about what you like and expect, what your food experience is, etc. Another way to make up your mind is to browse through blogs and phot gallery, say for instance mine (picasaweb.google.fr/zejulot) and see what inspires you. When there are too many options in a menu, what I do is I close it and I order what I remember from it. There are few places like l'Astrance in town (or anywhere else), especially in the top restaurant category. If what you like is the high precision, then l'Ambroisie, la Grande Cascade, Le Cinq, Ledoyen, Joel Robuchon (Table and Atelier) are first in line. If what you liked was the invention, I suppose Gagnaire, maybe Ledoyen, and less high end restaurants like Bigarrade (actually pretty similar to Astrance in many ways), Chateaubriand, ZKG, Bistral, Avant-Gout, Pré Verre... If what you liked was the informal service and modern interior, then probably Savoy. Agapé, Le Restaurant are possible suspects. For less expensive top dinner, indeed Senderens is an option, though it is often a gamble especially when it comes to savory food. La Grande Cascade has an 85€ menu bi, hard to beat for high end dinner. In general, less expensive for dinner than lunch of course goes against the trend. Rostang for example has that wonderful "club" lunch, all included, for 95€, whereas dinner is likely to be at least 250. Robuchon and Sormani have 60€ "club" deals. Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:40:15 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/669144#5202593 http://www.chow.com/topics/668968#5200917 I agree. I have some serious persuading to do. I should find the child-ed couple an alternative plan for the evening. Mon, 23 Nov 2009 01:08:43 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668968#5200917 http://www.chow.com/topics/668880#5200428 On the side towards the Bastille, suspect the ATAC Sun, 22 Nov 2009 21:05:33 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668880#5200428 http://www.chow.com/topics/668998#5200071 So I just finished finding hotels, trains and planes to get all the way to wine country France for Christmas when I realized. Where am I going to eat come Christmas/Eve?! I know that France is a really religious country, and because I will not be in the capital city, will I have problems finding something open? Does anyone have any recommendations for places that will be open? or recommendations for the other nights that I will be spending in Bordeaux? Thanks so much! Sun, 22 Nov 2009 17:51:48 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668998#5200071 http://www.chow.com/topics/667068#5199823 With a 2 yo, I'd head for a chain resto with continuous service, which will allow you to eat early (7 PM or so). Have a look at Chez Clément, there is one at Place Saint-André-des Arts, 6th arr. They are very used to see children, they have high-chairs and small kids menus. All, if not most restos will have special dinners i.e. more courses, more expensive on December 31. Chez Clement will most likely post their special menu on the web page very soon. Try to find out, if you can have anything else but the special menu. http://www.chezclement.com/anglais/index.php Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:32:12 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667068#5199823 http://www.chow.com/topics/667477#5199275 Oh, yeah.... Sun, 22 Nov 2009 03:25:01 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667477#5199275 http://www.chow.com/topics/649089#5199159 You need to call when the restaurant is open, during service. It is tiny and there are often no staff to answer the phone outside these hours. So 12:00 to 2:30 and after 7:30. Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:03:01 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/649089#5199159 http://www.chow.com/topics/668863#5198953 I owe the Grand Véfour the best meal of my life. As for Lapérouse, I can vouch for the scratched-up mirrors in the private salons. -- No I did not check my diamonds that way; nor was I dining with a greasy millionnaire drinking champagne out of my toe shoe. Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:46:25 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668863#5198953 http://www.chow.com/topics/668366#5197980 Strongly agree; check out the rug(s) on the floor as well; no lines to get in (no one French recalls that L.C. studied and worked in Paris and Nancy.) My view of it is at: http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/john_talbotts_paris/2009/10/tiffany-at-the-luxembourg.html John Talbott Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:44:06 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668366#5197980 http://www.chow.com/topics/661108#5197482 This topic is like an ever-opening flower. We'll never really know as there are awesome places opening all over and off the beaten path. Go forth, ask some locals, discover... Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:45:01 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/661108#5197482 http://www.chow.com/topics/666678#5196419 I'm really not sold on this place -- I adore crepes from Bretagne, but when I went to Breizh Cafe, my crepe was crispy and boring. I keep hearing raves though, so maybe my experience was not typical! Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:23:28 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666678#5196419 http://www.chow.com/topics/667849#5196275 travelluver, Yes. Re. Chez Francis, try to find with Google FRANCE!! A nice brasserie (very casual) is next door called Le Grand Corona, and cheaper also. They have the usual stuff like composed salads, different croques, omelettes, daily specials, etc. Here you go (google is your friend): http://www.chezfrancis-restaurant.com/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:17:07 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667849#5196275 http://www.chow.com/topics/668474#5195844 Thanks for the suggestion. The cellar looks like a good setting. Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:09:43 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668474#5195844 http://www.chow.com/topics/571773#5195792 The Chantecler would certainly oblige if you asked them in advance to alter the menu for your non-fish eating guest. Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:50:44 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/571773#5195792 http://www.chow.com/topics/668379#5194395 Hi: We'll be staying in a gite near Beaune for a week starting next week. Does anybody know if white truffles are available for purchase in Beaune as this would be a wonderful but simple meal to have at the gite? If so, any idea on price? Souphie and others have commented that the going rate in Paris is 4000 euro per kg. Currently, the US price for white truffles is approximately $150 per oz, which works out to be $5245/kg, or 3500euro/kg. So, it appears that it is cheaper in the US than in Paris. Thanks Roy Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:02:30 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668379#5194395 http://www.chow.com/topics/649117#5193390 Those saleswomen are really something. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:51:02 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/649117#5193390 http://www.chow.com/topics/668188#5193388 I didn't know that and I was going to respond Lasserre. I think Laidback wins. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:47:59 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668188#5193388 http://www.chow.com/topics/668173#5193384 Some are out, some are in. There's no rule, but there's a budget, so the number of restaurants is unlikely to get closer to Michelin. Those guys actually pay their bills, most of the time. More often than, say, Pudlo. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:45:36 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668173#5193384 http://www.chow.com/topics/668129#5193380 Let's call them and ask if there is anywhere in Paris where their stuff is sold and whether they can send us some. This seems to be the factory: 02 97 41 98 70 and this the shop: 02 97 41 94 81 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:41:45 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/668129#5193380 http://www.chow.com/topics/667841#5192871 Thanks, all. And yes, menton1, post-opera dining is difficult almost anywhere, isn't it? The Scala now has a little caffe/restaurant attached to it (operated by Marchesi) that serves a curtailed menu after the show; we've been to Savini, where the service and ambience are dire but where they do a surprisingly good job on the food. London is no problem, oddly. In Paris, there's Le Petit Riche. And on our home turf of NYC, we just get into a cab and go down to places like The Spotted Pig or one of the Momofukus. Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:44:25 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667841#5192871 http://www.chow.com/topics/667813#5192115 When did Etchebest take the helm? Was he always the chef here? I remember several sweet and very inexpensive evenings here some years ago, late '90s I believe. For what they were, dishes were rather good although one could tell by the ingredients that recipes were chosen to keep the tab down. The last time we went there was in 2001 and the place had been spiffed up, the staff smartened, prices raised although there was still no use of expensive ingredients. But the ambiance of the place had changed to one of "you are so lucky to be dining here...and can you eat a little faster, please". We never returned. Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:23:10 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667813#5192115 http://www.chow.com/topics/666638#5192023 Well, I got a reservation to the Renoir exhibit so I missed lunch today. But I did just go for an early dinner at l'Enoteca. I simply ordered two entrées. One with truffles, the other flavored with them. The one with truffles was a ramekin of creamy polenta and parmesan, with shavings of white truffles on top. I have no way to judge how many grams, but I felt it was (indeed, Souphie) a generous portion. A lovely, simple dish. 29 €. My other appetizer was two very generous crottin-sized chèvres with jambon fumé, served hot, over a bed of endives. That was 12€, a normal price for an entrée in a restaurant like this. Very filling. I definitely did not need a plat. I might note that the Belgian man sitting at the next table was ecstatic over his whole fish. Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:55:15 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666638#5192023 http://www.chow.com/topics/662759#5191808 Thanks to Souphie and Parigi for the ringing endorsement of Seurre. I don't know it, but intend to know it well. Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:47:09 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/662759#5191808 http://www.chow.com/topics/667763#5191291 He really does -- he has substance appetite. Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:12:21 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667763#5191291 http://www.chow.com/topics/666245#5190714 Here's the web page of Chez Les Anges (didn't find an English version though). I suppose they will post their end of year menus (incl. prices) later this year as well as the days they're open resp. closed: http://www.chezlesanges.com/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:00:17 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/666245#5190714 http://www.chow.com/topics/667968#5190135 We are staying on rue Clare in Paris for week between christmas and new years. Rick Steve's recommends Le Florimond (as do many on trip advisor) and our hotel recommends Chez Pierrot also in the neighborhood. Anyone familar with Chez Pierrot. It's small, casual and less expensive. Le Florimond has last table at 19:00 hr and must be done by 21:30 (9:30) which is ok...but rushing. Any thoughts? Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:53:54 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667968#5190135 http://www.chow.com/topics/667762#5189617 I agree that Caves Petrissans and Le Villaret have amazing wine lists at reasonable prices. As mentioned they don't specialize in "nice little wines" but there are certainly many available. Bar des Artisites on Rue Saulnier is a small little place that perfectly fits your request. They have a limited food menu of excellent provender and a selection of relatively unknown wines of good quality. Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:21:09 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667762#5189617 http://www.chow.com/topics/667656#5189185 Thank you. You have answered my question perfectly. We will be going to L'Augerge Bressane. The plan remains unchanged. Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:05:50 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/667656#5189185 http://www.chow.com/topics/567877#5188282 Hiely used to be a magical place, with the elegant streamlined decor and the Van Day Truex drawings on the wall; the refined cooking; and the great wines (both the house CNdPs in carafes and on the list). Hiely worked with the new owner after he sold, but when they started ripping things out and replacing them with faux-Louis, I lost interest. Robert Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:56:26 GMT http://www.chow.com/topics/567877#5188282