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    <title>Chowhound's Latest &#187; South Asia</title>
    <link>http://www.chow.com/boards/44</link>
    <pubDate>Fri, 13 Oct 2006 06:57:58 GMT</pubDate>
    <description>Keep track of the lastest threads on Chowhound</description>
    <item>
      <title>Food souvenirs from India?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/333742#5209659</link>
      <description>I just got back from India with a suitcase full of spices, jam, and a few other food items without any problems.  </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 16:54:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/333742#5209659</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3 Nights in Mumbai</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/662774#5207053</link>
      <description>Thanks adhish :)

Do you have any more info on these places (e.g. the food and prices)?</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 25 Nov 2009 12:41:16 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/662774#5207053</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3 Nights in Jaipur</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/662780#5203193</link>
      <description>I will second the recommendation for Niro's I was there last week and enjoyed a tasty meal. Unfortunately, I have no other Jaipur recommendations, we seemed not to have too much luck...</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:39:32 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/662780#5203193</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Looking for restaurant suggestions for Thailand.  </title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/667792#5203100</link>
      <description>in chiang mai, behind the night market is a place that has live prawns in huge tanks on the floor. it's has a woman's name, but i can't think of it for the life of me. but you must go!!!!!</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:16:48 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/667792#5203100</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>where to go for a meal on christmas day in Penang Malaysia?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/668024#5201561</link>
      <description>Some suggestions:

1. Thirty Two, beautiful mansion &amp; probably the best standalone Continental-style restaurant in Penang. 
http://www.32atthemansion.com/32/introduction.html

2. The new Hard Rock Hotel, and currently the hottest spot in Penang - nuff said! 
http://penang.hardrockhotels.net/

3. A favourite special-occasion restaurant in Penang: the Ferringhi Grill at Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort &amp; Spa.
http://www.shangri-la.com/en/property/penang/rasasayangresort/dining/restaurant/feringgigrill

4. My personal favourite - fusion-Chinese restaurant Sesame + Soy at the ultra-hip G Hotel on the Gurney Drive promenade:
http://www.ghotel.com.my/

5. For something a bit different - how about Tarbush Lebanese restaurant?
http://www.tarbush.com.my/about.htm

BTW, this thread should be posted on Greater Asia if you want more responses.</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 08:57:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/668024#5201561</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Anyone been to Goa recently?  Need some restaurant recommendations for 2010!</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/667793#5201071</link>
      <description>Fiesta has some really good food. Fiesta is in the same lane as Tito's if Im not mistaken. 
Brittos is good too and is a little further down. O'Coquiero is a little far off and has good food and is where Charles Shobraj was caught by the police.

Here is a really good link with some solid suggestions

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifting-gears/67619-guide-eating-out-goa.html</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 02:41:30 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/667793#5201071</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Holidays in Thailand</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/666505#5192857</link>
      <description>have a blast! That's my suggestion. Great beaches ,great food , great diving! The full moon party on Ko phangan  used to be great but  the last time i was there lots of trouble , that was 10 years ago. you can catch a boat  from Samui for cheap and be there in 20 minutes</description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:38:11 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/666505#5192857</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>tropical monkfish</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/667298#5183207</link>
      <description>hello all, does anyone know if the monkfish has a tropical/equatorial relative that is edible? thanks.</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:29:11 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/667298#5183207</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>cooking classes in india</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/360778#5169303</link>
      <description>Hey,

I had been to Branca's cooking classes while in Goa. I enjoyed it very much. I highly recommend her cookery classes in India. One of her most popular menus are Indian menu and Vegetarian menu. We must say the Chef has a lot of patience and speaks very good English. We did both the menus and we found they were good value for money. 

Her new email address is 
detroitinstitute@yahoo.com or reneemenezes@yahoo.com
Her contact no is 9822131835.

Hope this helps ...</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 07:21:24 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/360778#5169303</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>6 Nights in New Delhi</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/662779#5154779</link>
      <description>I visit Delhi several times a year and eat out a lot. The Hyatt where you will stay has two wonderful restaurants - the Italian and the Chinese, if you are getting tired of Indian food. It's a good place to stay and I go every time I'm in Delhi just to eat too.

I've only been to the Nizamuddin Karim's and it wasn't great; it's a creepy part of town at night, and I wouldn't go back. Perhaps the one in Old Delhi (near the Jama Masjid) is better.

Many of the best restaurants in town are in the five-star hotels; you are much less likely to get ill there too. Any Indian restaurant in a five-star hotel will be excellent.

Many people rave about Bukhara in the Maurya - it's a fantastic hotel (I'll be staying there in a couple of weeks) but Bukhara is way over-priced. </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 15:51:16 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/662779#5154779</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3 Nights in Jodhpur </title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/662777#5135510</link>
      <description>Following on from my post about Mumbai, I'll also be in Jodhpur for 3 nights in February and am after some chowhounder advice!

See original Mumbai thread for more background:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/662774

I'm hoping to get advice on dinner options - we'll be staying at the Taj Hari Mahal hotel on Residency Road, so bonus points for restaurants nearby ;-) 

I haven't come up with any promisng leads myself yet :(</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:54:55 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/662777#5135510</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>iso great food in Dhaka, Bangladesh</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/496122#4974943</link>
      <description>Sounds like you've got the place down pretty well, Katie.  Didn't take you long.  I'm American, working on a British project.  I have been coming in and out regularly for two years and I've wound up taking most of my meals at the American Club, though I plan to try a reciprocal Tuesday at the German Club soon.  I have avoided Spitfire ever since one of our team members became quite ill after eating there.  But I have been impressed with Kings Kitchen on Gulshan 2 for Chinese.  Check it out sometime.  Also had some decent Chinese (off the menu, not the buffet) at Baton Rouge in the Pink City complex.  The best bet by far, though, is a few days in Thailand!</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 25 Aug 2009 06:43:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/496122#4974943</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Chennai and Pondicherry?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/488110#4964662</link>
      <description>Hey! that is awesome! I'd like to suggest this  site www.FindNearYou.com where you can find Hotels according to your affordability. Welcome and enjoy! Hope i ve been helpful!</description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 21 Aug 2009 07:36:43 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/488110#4964662</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Seeking recs for Bangalore &amp; Kolkata</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/643122#4929766</link>
      <description>I'm heading to Bangalore and Kolkata for a business trip later this month.  I'm staying at the Leela in Bangalore and the Hyatt Regency in Kolkata.  I'm interested in restaurant suggestions near both of these venues.  I'm also planning to do some shopping in Bangalore on Commercial Street, so recs in that are would be welcome as well.  </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 09 Aug 2009 03:32:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/643122#4929766</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The Great Indian Food Journey [from UK/Ireland board]</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/628340#4873417</link>
      <description>You have to try Hotel Venite, 31 January Road, River Front Secretariat, (near Mermaid Garden and GPO), in Panjim, Goa. 
I was last there in 2001, though. If it remains the same, then all their traditional Goan fish/seafood dishes are great. </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:15:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/628340#4873417</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Mumbai Restaurants Needed</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/616194#4803073</link>
      <description>A few reviews of Melting Pot:

http://pune.burrp.com/listing/bar-restaurant/1211297188_melting-pot__UR</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2009 21:41:37 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/616194#4803073</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>McDonalds India - Favorite Dish?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/618216#4776741</link>
      <description>yeah i know, mcdonalds mcnuggets are dammm good. But the bad news is that they have gone out of stock due to over consumption. Though i quiet assumed it that it might go out of stock if people keep on hogging like this. But im praying that they make it available soon. Im longing for it.</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 10:16:58 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/618216#4776741</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Masala Kraft, Mumbai re-opens- how is it now?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/619441#4738738</link>
      <description>although i havent been to Masala Kraft since it re-opened my brother did recently and said it was just as good. 

i was at the Golden Dragon across from MK, it wasn't too bad. most of the old timers were there !</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 03 Jun 2009 15:42:12 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/619441#4738738</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Pizza in Mumbai</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/566196#4712138</link>
      <description>I know we are talking about Mumbai, but just can't stop myself from mentioning the Tuna Pizza and Basho in hotel Brighu (vashist Manali), so good the wife and I had 2 at a go</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 06:10:05 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/566196#4712138</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Bangalore Recommendations needed</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/613955#4655025</link>
      <description>Not 5-star, but for Punjabi food in Bangalore, Queen's on Church Street is my choice. No-frills, but lovely food - spicy, but flavourful - not just chilli. And their Dal Makhani is one of the best things I've ever eaten at a restaurant. </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 05 May 2009 10:19:26 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/613955#4655025</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Report: Bombay/Mumbai and Goa (long) [Moved from International board]</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/266048#4639026</link>
      <description>I'm shocked there aren't more posts on Bombay.  I searched the boards for some recommendations before a recent trip and there are really not many considering what an amazing city it is for eating.  For anyone else who's looking, other than the old faithfuls of Trishna and Khyber, we like:

Kailash Parbat (KP's), Colaba:  a new discovery for us. Has the type of street food I wish I could eat at Chowpatty. Amazing dahi potato puri, pani puri, chole batata, etc.

Shiv Sagar, near Nariman Point:  their pav bhaji is the first thing we eat when we get off the plane.  Simple lunch-canteen type of place.  

Status, near Nariman Point:  another new discovery.  You wait outside on plastic chairs with 150 locals and their families until you are called in for your veg thali.  Mini pav bhajis (served on toothpicks like little sliders) amazing.

People rave about Olympia's chicken biryani (Colaba) but when we went it was a severely disappointing pile of cold rice with a few meagre, bony chicken pieces.  





</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:59:21 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/266048#4639026</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Grand Hyatt, Mumbai</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/615816#4638637</link>
      <description>I did manage to venture out of the hotel sometimes :)

A good point about vegetarians preparing meat dishes, and one that I had not considered!

Like you, the best food I had in Mumbai was prepared in a colleague's home, by his wife. They were from Jaipur in Rajasthan, and the food was simply the best  Indian food I've ever had (all vegetarian). As with your experience, there were typically many dishes being served. Baigan Bartha was probably my favourite (a spicy aubergine/egg plant dish). Or maybe Aloo Methi (a potato dish made with lots of fresh methi leaves - I just can't get fresh methi leaves where I am in the UK, so this was a real treat for me).

Homemade pickles were also especially good. Lasun (garlic) was particularly good (never tried it before). Lemon pickle was also very good (it's easy to get lime pickle here, but never tried lemon pickle before). Indian pickles I can buy or get in restaurants in the UK are invsriably very oily, but none of the homemade pickles were. A real treat :)

Homemade bread was nothing short of stellar! Mooli paratha was probably my favourite.

The same colleague's wife also made my lunch every day during the week :)  So I tasted plenty home-cooked food :)

I ate in quite a few cheap restaurants outside of the hotel too, but I can't remember the names of many. Food in all was good, but not excellent (but was a 10th of the price of the Hyatt!). Toni's Dabba on the road to Pune... Spices in Navi Mumbai... a more up-market one called Saffron in the city... one in Airoli, the name of which eludes me... a couple in Vikhroli, the names of which elude me... some others here and there... gah, damn my crappy memory! Next time I'll take notes as I go ;)</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 29 Apr 2009 15:10:48 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/615816#4638637</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Report on 2007 North India trip &#8211; before I forget all the details</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/555297#4590610</link>
      <description>I would not blame you for your experience. Most Indian food at hotels is catered to suit multiple palates. The better versions exist either street-side, at the big 5-star hotels or at small shops. In Delhi you could have visited Pandara road for a taste of Punjabi fare. Indo-Chinese cuisine is specially unique for its difference with traditional Chinese cuisine.

Let me know next time you are heading to India. I can give you contacts to connect with.</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 13 Apr 2009 06:21:13 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/555297#4590610</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Food Trip in Delhi</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/608656#4557769</link>
      <description>In this Food Trip w/Todd English travels to India to make delicious television shows. On the Todd Squad this go round: Commando, Johnny O, Matty Mahal and me.

I&#8217;m viewing the last shimmering glimpse of sunset thru the foreground of my toes just as it dissolves into the far haze over the Andaman Sea and I&#8217;m trying to make up my mind between the Panter Punch or the Tom Kolin. Mr.Tam is playing the guitar and softly singing some gentle Thai country tune that I must move closer and still myself to hear. We&#8217;re thinking we should be working for Khun Tam ourselves, but he already has like six Thai guys working this seaside boite. They are longhair types with wispy Uncle Ho beards and badass temple tattoos all over. Sak Yant inked with bamboo needle and hammer in large traditional patterns that may take days to apply. The whole lot are smoking away on rough shag tobacco rolled in dry palm leaves that perfume the salty air. From behind a ragged curtain in a tiny shack, grilled prawns and pad kee maow which translate as &#8216;shit drunk noodles&#8217; are produced along with Mekhong Whiskey and soda. The whiskey known as Sang Thip is illegal virtually everywhere else in the world and is rumored to have hallucinogenic properties. Here in the shade, steps from the surf we hang out&#8230; cold beer at a reasonable price, Thai cuisine al fresco and this time it really just doesn&#8217;t get any better than this. Beautiful. Coco nutty. Beautiful. But I&#8217;m getting ahead of myself. Let&#8217;s get in the Way Back Machine and set it for Old Delhi, about two weeks ago.

Early gray and froze, me and my partner JohnnyO are hurtling down I-95 across the bleak winter landscape of New England toward JFK. On the way the morning repast of humus, newly minted pita and the Jerusalem mix w/curried deep fried taters like you get near the Mehane Yehuda. I&#8217;m finding it a hard habit to break since our last Food Trip to Israel only weeks in the rear view mirror. It&#8217;s thee perfect petit dejeuner brought to us by Commando who will join the squad again as we meet up with Matty Mahal and jump down the rabbit hole once more with our fearless leader a.k.a. The Great Giant Head. This time it&#8217;s Old Delhi and then KrungThep/City of Angels and finally we&#8217;ll all embrace the chaos and just say &#8220;Phuket&#8221;.

Part 1: The Kababary Coast
&#8220;It is written&#8230;&#8221;

Guess who is late? Without him we are like a tandoori chicken with its great giant head cut off&#8230; and loving it.

We arrive business class and by way of Brussels (nice lounge) on Jet Airways to Delhi around midnight. Met by our guide Karan we inquire of late night eats. My tongue has swelled up inside my mouth and I must have been having a tough time articulating &#8220; beer&#8221;. Perhaps we might sort out a roadside Darhba of note?

Along the wooded deserted boulevards, small fires consuming the detritus of that day fill the street lit air with a hazy fog. Sacred cows actually roam these streets like lost dogs. At least Pindi on Pandara Road is open for business. Parantha, Rogan Josh, Keema Mater, Butter Chicken. No beer. Lime and soda. That wonderful coconut chutney you don&#8217;t see and that mango pickle thing I wish you didn&#8217;t. Families are still filtering in at 1:30am.

We five, satiated for the moment totter out onto the lane where a Paanwalla has set up on the curb. Acara nut, sugar, candied fruit, fennel seeds, cloves, cardamom saffron, lime paste, and a score of other ingredients of the Paan art are wrapped in a betel leaf and then chewed like a plug and ingested in short order. No spitting. Where&#8217;s the fun in that? This time without tobacco or mukwas as found in some paan, the flavors are like some chilled potpourri; rose water, coconut, bits, nibs. It is a popular old school digestive and palate cleanser here in Incredible India so we all put some between the cheek and gum.

A note on the no beer thing. Lots of Muslims, so no booze in a lot of places. The places that do have it tend to serve it apr&#232;s dinner. Go figure. This spicy cuisine and beer go together like&#8230; pasta and Bolognese.

Karan is a warrior class act from countryside several hours north of here. To caste and crew he is the cream of the Manala people and we are quick friends. Our fixer is regal and patient and a very good chap. All in all, a better man than I. Maybe someday I&#8217;ll visit him far from the city at his ancestral home. There in the foothills of the Himalayas where the Frontier cuisine is cooked over live fire and toasts are made over Mowa wine made from butter tree flowers.

Shangri La lies in New New Delhi, out by the embassies and politicians compounds. It is a five star hotel and an armed camp with a formidable gate. Soldiers whose automatic weapons are chained to them conduct obligatory searches. Since the November &#8216;08 Mumbai attacks the whole place which normally runs like some Stalinist sub continental first n&#8217;third world model of efficiency is on double high alert. Did I mention that there is also no smoking anywhere in public? I am struck by this considering the entire country is smoldering. In the perfectly fine room there was a fruit plate and some nice chocolates set on rock sugar.

Breakfast at the Shang is comprehensive. We are digging the morning dose of Dosas on demand, uttapam, and other Indian fare. We forget about coffee and learn to love the proper Masala Chai, a perfect blend of tea and aromatic spices and herbs.

Videowalla am I. Landmarks but no permits put us in &#8220;fly under the radar mode&#8221;. Permits in India take about a lifetime to get and since our pre-pro is seat o&#8217;the pants we wing it. Red Fort, The Lotus Temple, Akshardham temple, street life, let&#8217;s chaat, Sihk and find. 1000 suspect handshakes at the gazillion dollar Patemple where it&#8217;s school field trip day for the masses. We are apparently fascinating foreigners. Decked out in schoolboy pants ourselves, and pigment-less we must appear as some unhonorable snowmen. Although I got a weird feeling it&#8217;s more like Jerry Lewis in France. Purell anyone?

Bengali buffet lunch at Oh Calcutta. Prawn pulao, soft prawns in an aromatic rice garnished with raisins, chicken malai curry cooked in coconut milk, and an incredibly light but tasty daab chingri. For fish dishes (flown in from Kolkatta) - smoked hilsa fish and a steamed boneless hilsa in a mustard sauce &#8211; both worked. As far as apps - crabmeat and shrimp steamed in a banana leaf &#8211; winner. Big safe nap back at the Shang.

We scope Bengali Sweets for a shoot the next day. We chaat up the locals some more and visit a big old time Krishna tent event. I think I felt the spirit upon me there that evening or perhaps it was a pickpocket.

Carnivore&#8217;s Note: The Hindus hold sacred the cow. The Muslims, they shun Mr. Pig so in India sheep and goats are scared. Chickens are toast. Recommended by our Delhi fixers and Indian friends at home, dinner is at Punjabi by Nature on three modern floors in an outdoor &#8220;mall&#8221; of upscale stores with a cinema complex. A one legged beggar owns a patch of real estate out front. Insert rupees here. Extreme Indias. Beer by the pitcha before dinner only (we break this custom.), Gol Golppas which are chaat vodka shots in golf ball shaped crisp panni poori cups&#8230;tamarind, mint and straight vodka flavored&#8230; shoot and crunch. According to our hosts, goat is always Mutton. Raan e Punjab like Mataa (Mother) used to make, Kababs (surprise), a rack of jhengi champ, dhal makni, masala okra, Lachedar parantha, gulab jamun to finish. Overall this was my very favorite meal in Delhi. Chai. Pass the cream. Safe at the Shang.
 
Mr. Matty gets Delhi belly and is down.

I&#8217;m not gonna lie to you. Sunny Northern Injia is teaming, simmering and exhilarating. I want to take a hundred portraits, anticipate a thousand actions and capture this rich quality of light and color, this heat and melodic cacophony of Old Delhi. Rickshaw and barrow, donkey cart and wandering cow and always, relentless urchins are in our face. Impromptu cricket pitches and stick swinging policemen. Sidewalk acrobats, fakirs (and their mothers) and contortionists compliment the type casteng. Dickens would be quite at home. I see that Commando is grabbing rich images on his still camera. He has a shot of one woman where the eyes are piercing, the rich tone of her weathered face glows as shafts of light rake the frame from one side. I really miss being able to take stills on these trips. I frame close ups of carefully arranged lemons and green chilies in egg and dart patterns I am told ward off bad luck. The stolen frozen moment is a different perception. The video however is a moving experience and I engage scores of people who interact with the lens and me. One nut brittle street vendor pops a piece in my mouth. &#8220;Dan ya vad.&#8221; Sikhs wash their feet before entering a temple guarded by a mustachioed giant wielding a great truncheon thing. I stop to buy a Sikh bracelet and some charms on a string. You can never have enough juju. Just sayin&#8217;.

The great giant head and the exquisite sari adorned Anu Vivek (aka Miss India) meet the Maharajah at the Taj (Hotel) and dine on upscale elevations of Mughlai cuisine at Restaurant Varq . This worked out awesome since Buhkara at the Marya Sheraton and The Spice Route at the Imperial reneged last minute. The table talk is about the slum dog billionaire story of Jet Airways chairman Naresh Goyal who was supposed to meet us but was detoured to Davos, Switzerland to the world economic summit. I&#8217;m quite sure he would not have carried off the sari as well as Anu.

         Menu highlights at Varq which means Gold Leaf in Hindi include Varqi Crab, an appetizer of crabmeat in phyllo pastry topped with a tandoori prawn, Makai ka shorba, a corn broth poured over popcorn, Martabaan, meat curry with red pickled chilies served in a traditional ceramic pickle jar, Kadi patte ke scallops, three plump scallops flavored with curry-leaf and served on tomato salsa, Sunheri Nalli, a robust New Zealand lamb shank on a bed of kofti biryani, Masala Sea Bass served on saut&#233;ed spinach and mushroom, bread selections, such as the Tomato and Mozzarella Kulcha and Olive Naan, Tamarind and sugarcane sorbets to cleanse the palate between courses, Masala tea cr&#232;me brulee.

Next day in Delhi&#8230;

&#8230;Let&#8217;s Chaat.

(from the Wickedpedia)

&#8220;Chaat is plate of savoury snacks, typically served at road-side tracks from stalls or carts in Pakistan, India and the rest of South Asia. (Think Chex mix with yogurt, bark, twigs, gunpowder, calcium, niacin, tamarind sauce, black salt). The word derives from Hindi c&#257;&#7789;  (tasting, a delicacy), from c&#257;&#7789;n&#257;  (to lick), from Prakrit ca&#7789;&#7789;ei (to devour with relish, eat noisily)[1].

The chaat variants are all based on fried dough, with various other ingredients. The original chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, crispy fried bread, gram bean and spices, but other popular variants included Aloo Tikkis (garnished with onion, coriander, hot spices and a dash of curd), bhel puri, dahi puri, panipuri, dahi vada, papdi chaat, and sev puri. There are common elements among these variants including dahi, or yogurt; chopped onions and coriander; sev (small dried yellow noodles); and chaat masala. This is a masala, or spice mix, typically consisting of amchoor (dried mango powder), cumin, black salt, coriander, dried ginger, salt, black pepper, and red pepper. The ingredients are combined and served on a small metal plate or a banana leaf, dried and formed into a bowl.&#8221;

Bengali Sweets does chaat right. Karan and Chef dig in and experience the snack genre that includes crunchy bits, raita, coconut, pomegranate, whatever and etc, thingamabob, and the chaat makers signature tamarind sauce. A whiff of sulfur smelling black masala salt makes it a complete treat.

No guest Chef Chintan Upadhyay from Jet Airways this morning as his flight is delayed probably due to the hazy invisibility cloak the Delhis prefer to wear. Pressing on we encounter a snake charmer as we change from odiferous van to au natural rickshaw. Snake charming is totally forbidden in India today. Our Chef hates snakes it turns out although I am mesmerized and get like within a foot of the hooded hissing striking cobra. I bet they defang it or detox it or something. Right? The Chef always fancied himself in a rickshaw but found driving it with Anu and the driver in back overrated. The Paan Bizarre is full of the paan parts and paan purveyors. Everywhere are bales of the betel leaf, tobacco, jars, sacks, zip lock bags, liquids, neat little piles of the items that go in the paan plug. The paan wallas hands move faster than the eye as he smears and adds pinchs of the magic. As he periodically breathes his mouth opens slightly to reveal red teeth and gums from the betel nut and asrtingents he prefers in his own brand of paan. The Great Giant paan chewer gets one with everything including tobacco. From the look on the great giant face I&#8217;m guessing spitty outy this time. We&#8217;ll just check that right off the life list.

Chowdni Chowk is just got too many people trying to exist in the very same space at once. Johnny O and I curiously ascend an ancient tenement to a roof top five stories above. Atop this old school skyscraper is roof life and it goes on as far as the eye can see. Here are little hovels and villages, microcosms up high. Below a frothing tide of people and the noise of the street. As we turn to leave JohnnyO goes down hard as his feet go out from under him in some primordial roof ooze and he is anointed. The roof people immerge from their places and clean him up and we rupee them. Purell!?

The Spice Market here is a scene from an older world much. It is a maze of alleys and stalls where the dense foot traffic of people and spice never slows. The air is impregnated with aromatic dust and the particulates have this world wheezing and hacking. Tiny men with turban heads and gauze masked faces haul impossible bundles and pull and heave on gigs and carts. India needs a lot of flavor and here are tons upon tons. Chilies, cinnamon, turmeric and more. Just visiting, Anu and the Chef dance thru, he dressed like Johnny Cash and she still in the fairy tale sari; propriety and the spice of life.

Our rickshaw driver is nearly killed several times. In his zeal to please he diverts from our rickshaw caravan often going the wrong way, taking expired shortcuts, getting a flat and generally pissing all of Chowdni Chowk right off. The dealio in Dehli; mean as a stick, conform, lay low, older than dirt, you don&#8217;t know where that&#8217;s been, don&#8217;t touch&#8230;anything.

My Indian friends back in the States all said if you have only one meal in Delhi make it the original Moti Mahal.  Over a billion sold since Independence in 1947, Moti Mahal is proud and not to be confused with Moti Mahal Deluxe. It&#8217;s a sort of Ray&#8217;s Pizza thing. As the hazy night shades Delhi again the sound of mandolin, wood flute, sitar and squeeze box and the eerie off key nasal female vocals of old but not forgotten ghazal love songs are cranking out from a beerless garden of Kababs. (The choice of songs was a mix of the best of the patrician and the plebian &#8212; Himesh Reshammaiya tunes belted out with as much relish as Ghalib&#8217;s qalaam). Just sayin&#8217;.

Chintan and the Great Giant Head invade the Moti Mahal kitchen and marinate and ruminate and tandoorize a menagerie of halal meats. The Chefs work the Tandoor and soon breads and kababs were flying out like there was no tomorrow. Really. We ordered everything.  Paneer Shashlik, Bharwaan Aloo and Makhani Daal for the veg. The Reshami Kabaab, Burra Kabaab, Rogan Josh, Butter Chicken, and Tandoori Chicken all marinated to perfection in yogurt, garlic, and a tad too much lemon, red dye #4, and secret spices. Kalmi Kabaab and the Khasta Roti were note worthy. Beer was not part of this excellent experience.

Across the take your life in your own hands crossing this street Road, we find the best Paan so far. Wrapped in edible silver leaf in the classical style, some of the stuff inside is chilled. In between the cheek and gum it is startling cold, sweet, and floral. Beautiful and yes&#8230;nutty. Dan ya vad paan man.

High Chai w/Anu still in sari at the Shang. Swanky.

         Ohka veg market w/Chef Chintan. At Ohka a vast bounty of fresh produce and a sea of humanity both inside and outside the covered market beckons the eye and ear. Tractor tire size spirals of red carrots and fenugreek and countless other ingredients are styled perfectly. Again I note the green chilies and lemons organized for luck. Most of the market smiles and beckons the camera. Everyone is ready for their close up. A cow wanders thru. I am nearly run over constantly.

         Ate at the Jet Air commissary and saw how Indian cuisine is designed to fly for efficiency of weight and preparation on board.(kababs, cotton candy)

         Cook at the Shangri La (stuffed quail, tandoori lobster), Family backyard cookout dinner in New Delhi (more kababary).

         Commando gets the Delhi Belly and wills himself well in just hours. Tomorrow in Thailand he will be eating on camera.

         The squad has carried a lot of water here in India and deserves praise. The business class lounge in the Delhi Airport was crowded . There was however beer.

 

YOU may talk o&#8217; gin an&#8217; beer

When you&#8217;re quartered safe out &#8216;ere,

&#8230;Now in Injia&#8217;s sunny clime,

Where I used to spend my time

A-servin&#8217; of &#8216;Er Majesty the Queen,

Of all them black-faced crew

The finest man I knew

Was our regimental bhisti, Gunga Din.         Rudyard Kipling</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 01 Apr 2009 17:38:47 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/608656#4557769</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Nepal (with stops in Delhi and Amsterdam)</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/586890#4448258</link>
      <description>I think there is a branch in Boudha. The original, I believe, is the KTM location. </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2009 20:40:14 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/586890#4448258</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Chakkali or sevai press</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/591864#4402936</link>
      <description>Yes I am sure that "sev" is called different things in different languages, but all of these utensils like puttu makers and so forth people use the English word "press" or "maker."  

Incidentally I was in a multi-lingual group of women yesterday and I asked if there was any other term for sev press and they agreed on "vermicelli press." Lots of English words are used in all Indian languages. 

If you note in the first picture link you attached, it says the word "farsaan maker." I thought of instructing the query person to go to a Gujarati grocer because they will surely have such a press as Gujaratis usually make their farsaans at home---but I have no idea if s/he would understand what I mean by Gujju grocer, so I left that part out. My Gujarati neighbors have a sev press that is a hand held version and has a twisty handle part on top. It has two changeable faces, one for fine sev, and one for fat sev.  That model would be widely available at any Asian grocer that carries these types of cookwares.</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 10 Feb 2009 05:56:04 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/591864#4402936</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>two special places in bangalore</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/584680#4371929</link>
      <description>its more like a kheema looking dish. wonderful stuff.</description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:24:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/584680#4371929</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The best place to go for tea in Delhi?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/591614#4366393</link>
      <description>Hello,

I'll be in Delhi for a few weeks and I wanted to treat myself to a really lovely tea. By tea I mean the meal not the product. I already have my tea guy that I go to. I would love recommendations, price is not an issue. Thanks!!</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 28 Jan 2009 20:48:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/591614#4366393</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>When in Delhi</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/587069#4365159</link>
      <description>I will be in Delhi next week, just before you, and Jen Kalb also gave me some great ideas for classes.  I am taking a cooking class with the owner of the www.delhibedandbreakfast.com and it turns out that her family also owns a tour company www.uniqueindiatour.com that does market tours, so I am spending a day shopping with her as well.  They have been great about replying to me immediately to set up my time with them.  It's very reasonable, about $45 for a lunch class and about $60-100 for the day tour.  We are going to tailor the day tour to my needs, so it is as open as I want it to me.  They also offer pick up and drop off from my hotel for about $20 additional, which saves me a day of hiring a driver.  I am also in the process of setting up a day walking market tour of old Delhi (which includes local delicacies from restaurants) with another home cook recommended on Chowhound.  Jyoti, at www.gourmetdesire.com .  I'll let you know how it goes next week...</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:45:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/587069#4365159</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>South India Trip Report - Tamil Nadu and Kerala</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/495563#4338490</link>
      <description>Ooh, good thing I was scanning my old posts trying to find an old thread... wouldn't have seen this otherwise   :)

Email me at the address in my profile and I'll send you the info of our travel agent in Kerala - and I'd do two nights.</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 19 Jan 2009 16:16:58 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/495563#4338490</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Among the best seafood restaurants in Mumbai (Bombay)</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/585164#4337562</link>
      <description>Hmmm, first time poster. Sounds like an ad.

Trishna was my fav in Bombay.</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 19 Jan 2009 02:22:05 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/585164#4337562</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>First trip to Delhi, Karol Bahg area</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/584489#4322632</link>
      <description>Thank you so much!!!  This is a great start!  Much appreciated.</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2009 20:01:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/584489#4322632</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Food gems in Udaipur and Kochi</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/573410#4200114</link>
      <description>Sorry, I dont have any recommendations, but am currently living in Chennai and will be in Kochi in January, so will be very happy to hear your report and get some good tips!   Have a wonderful trip!!</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 25 Nov 2008 08:55:13 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/573410#4200114</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Ming Palace, Colaba, Mumbai--eh</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/572857#4184604</link>
      <description>Ming Palace was "passable" back in the late-90s but, even then, was hardly authentic Chinese, since most of their customers are locals. Their Oriental clientele mainly consisted of Koreans, and visiting ethnic Chinese businessmen  from Singapore &amp; Malaysia who're looking for a break from Indian food. These days, I'd avoid it like a plague - my last visit in 2006 was like committing culinary hara-kiri. The restaurant is also Muslim-owned, so they don't serve pork (the meat of choice for the Chinese).

Mumbai has fabulous food &amp; fantastic restaurants (Mahesh Lunch Home, Gajali, Trishna, etc), but don't bother looking for decent Chinese or Japanese.</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 19 Nov 2008 02:22:15 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/572857#4184604</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Where to eat in Bali - Manggis and Seminyak?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/540940#4178903</link>
      <description>If you can find your way down to Tanjung Benoa, Bumbu Bali is a terrific restaurant serving traditional Balinese cuisine.  It's been a couple years since we went there (twice in 4 days) but I still remember the Roast Duck in Banana Leaf, a shredded chicken salad and the Sates.  This isn&#8217;t a hole in the wall type place but I don't think you would be disappointed.</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 04:08:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/540940#4178903</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Parsi and Irani recs. in Bombay...</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/548885#4141741</link>
      <description>you'll need a parsi member friend. believe me its worth it.

out of curiosity - where are you based?</description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2008 23:34:42 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/548885#4141741</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Firdous (&#1601;&#1585;&#1583;&#1608;&#1587;): Amazing Kulfi in Andheri, Mumbai</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/566604#4129567</link>
      <description>It was good!  It was a very fruity (not artificial) fruit flavor, whether or not it comes from actual strawberries.  I was feeling adventurous then; I actually came back planning to have malai (or sitafel if they had it) last night; I learned that they close at an unknown time before 11:15pm on Saturdays.

Also: it's actually on SV Road itself; I misremembered.</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2008 13:38:09 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/566604#4129567</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Mumbai (Bombay) restaurant suggestions? [Moved from International board]</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/442912#4129563</link>
      <description>I thought Indigo was just ok, and thus horribly overpriced. 590 Rs (at the time, about $15 USD; now closer to 12) got me a so-so risotto dish that I would have been extremely disappointed to have for $15 in the US.  I don't expect decent Italian food here--it was someone else's choice--but that much for anything unspectacular is an embarrasment.  The garlic bread was overtoasted to the point of inedibility, and the table bread was very stale.  Also, cheap wines started at well over Rs 1000, so I didn't even bother.</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2008 13:35:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/442912#4129563</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Spices from Sri Lanka?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/497278#4098765</link>
      <description>Sri Lanka produces many spices ("curry" is really a mix or blend of ground spices) -- you could ask for whole cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, just to name a few that the island is well-known for.  Or you could ask for some pre-mixed curry powders or curry pastes.  Or you could ask for some loose-leaf tea from Sri Lanka.</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 12 Oct 2008 07:03:19 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/497278#4098765</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>What to bring back from India + Northern India dining?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/545833#4039625</link>
      <description>I will be in Varanasi in a few weeks and I will be stocking up on the Iranian hing (asafoetida) from a shop in the Thatheri bazaar. Another thing to get there is the paan masala which is exclusive to Varanasi.</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 16 Sep 2008 19:21:05 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/545833#4039625</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Tawa gurda kapoora - aka taka tak (Lahore)</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/555873#4019645</link>
      <description>Tawa gurda kapoora means kidneys and testicles in a large frying pan. To avoid the embarrassment of associating such words with food, most of us now call it Taka tak. Read more at:

http://lahore-menu.blogspot.com/2008/08/tawa-gurda-kapoora-aka-taka-tak.html</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Sep 2008 11:32:26 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/555873#4019645</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Ingredients substitution/alternative</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/548223#3953103</link>
      <description>Welcome to Chowhound!

you can substitute regular iodized table salt for the sea salt or for kosher salt. Since both the kosher salt and sea salt are likely to be coarse grained salt, which  is lighter and fills the measuring spoon rather loosely, you should use less of the iodized than the recipe calls for the first time you use the recipe, probaby 1/2 to 2/3 of what the recipe calls for. If you dont reduce, your dish will be too salty.

There is a Home Cooking discussion Board on chowhound.  it might be a better place to ask this kind of question.

http://chowhound.chow.com/boards/31</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:30:27 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/548223#3953103</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Good eats for upcoming trip to Deli, India?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/533844#3947840</link>
      <description>Hmm, the fine dining experience in India can be pricey but the food is worth it
Frontier food: Bukhara at the Maurya Sheraton
For not so expensive food, the Asian Games village has some nice restaurants, Chopsticks for Indian-Chinese, Angeethi for north indian
The Great Kabab Factory is a not to be missed food experience at the Radisson
Sagar in Defence Colony has the best south indian food, a close second would be coconut grove , with the besst appams and stew in Delhi
Karims is fabulous although the location is a little shady

For fast food, Haldiram's (many branches, in Lajpat Nagar etc) is not to be missed, start with the Raj Kachori and remember to finish with the Jalebi. Might be my favorite of all Delhi places and is certainly the first place I go to when I visit Delhi</description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:24:38 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/533844#3947840</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Shopping in Chennai</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/528666#3930755</link>
      <description>Maison des Gourmets, Cenotaph Road, 2nd Lane (in the same building as the Toyota dealership) sources produce from Bangalore twice a week.  They get fresh shipments on Monday and Wednesday mornings.  I've seen them have thyme, sage, rosemary, basil, and thai basil rather regularly.  You could also give them a call in advance to see what they have in that shipment.  They also have the best lettuce selection, as far as I'm concerned.</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 05 Aug 2008 08:23:32 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/528666#3930755</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hyderabad] Looking for Hyderabad suggestions</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/543659#3912464</link>
      <description>I'm going to be in Hyderabad for work for a week next month. I'm looking for any and all food suggestions. During the week I'll only be able to get away for dinners, but then I will have a whole weekend with nothing to do.

Where should I eat? What should I eat? Any specialties I shouldn't miss? I'm up for all price ranges, all types of food. No phobias (that involve food).

Any chance of a cooking class?

Obviously am completely clueless so any suggestions would be appreciated!</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:37:21 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/543659#3912464</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Cooking classes in Pune?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/530127#3789692</link>
      <description>I will be in Pune for a week in July and am wondering if anyone has an recommendations for cooking classes in Pune.  I know a fair bit about Indian cooking already (but I'm certainly not an expert).  I know cooking classes will be regional, I'm just not picky, as long as they aren't teaching me how to cooking non-Indian food.

Thanks in advance!</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 18 Jun 2008 04:59:17 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/530127#3789692</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Top Chef - India</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/527867#3781692</link>
      <description>you got the list quite right..
i agree on chef Ritu dalmia  and Rahul Akerkar cent percent ananda soloman is an institute not sure about teh others </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 15 Jun 2008 11:48:51 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/527867#3781692</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>salmon in delhi?</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/524113#3747861</link>
      <description>i think you could try any of the upper end chains like the Taj or ITC, they have plenty of options and should be able to smoke up some Salmon for you. There aren't that many solid stand alone fine dine places or European restaurants on offer in Delhi. So the 5 stars are your best bet. </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 04 Jun 2008 11:08:43 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/524113#3747861</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Bad Directions (Mumbai food blog)</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/420020#3747856</link>
      <description>another great place for reviews is www.burrp.com and http://eatingoutinbombay.blogspot.com </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 04 Jun 2008 11:04:35 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/420020#3747856</guid>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Bukhara or Peshawari [Moved from International board]</title>
      <link>http://www.chow.com/topics/448632#3747848</link>
      <description>hi, 

this might be a little late but ill do it anyway. Bukhara is really no different from Peshawari. The Peshwari chain looks the same and even has the same menu, ambiance, environment and pricing. 

I think its just done to make it easier for the ITC to ensure the Bukhara brand does not get diluted (you cant have a place listed as one of the worlds best restaurants replicated across their chain) 

my meal at Peshawari is here http://eatingoutinbombay.blogspot.com/2008/05/peshawri.html

i think Dum Pukth is a much better restaurant when compared (read http://eatingoutinbombay.blogspot.com/2008/06/dum-pukth.html) but no cheaper. 

If you want standard Indian fare you could also try Punjabi By Nature in Delhi, i had dinner there once and i found it to be pretty good. Would also be half the cost of Bukhara or Peshawari. </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 04 Jun 2008 10:53:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.chow.com/topics/448632#3747848</guid>
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